• Jo May

Canada: from Sydney to Sydney!

This trip across Canada has been on our minds for a long while. Frankly it was one we thought we might never take. But here we are, March 2024, heading off from Sydney, Australia, to Vancouver. The aim is to reach Sydney, Canada. Let's see if we can. Okumaya devam et
  • We made it!

    29 Nisan 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Dear All,
    Thank you for following our journey so far. Today we made it to Sydney Nova Scotia and the Atlantic Ocean, so our goal to go from Sydney NSW Australia to Vancouver and then drive to Sydney on the Eastern side of Canada has been accomplished. To celebrate we had an excellent lunch at the Governor’s Pub overlooking the water.
    We are going to take a few days off now and rest before we head around the famous Cape Breton Trail, then on to Prince Edward Island, Quebec and finally Montreal. What a treat it has been so far! So anyway no posts from me now until the weekend. With love, him & me x
    Okumaya devam et

  • But Wait, There’s More! To Ingonish

    3 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 5 °C

    Just when you thought you’d heard enough here we are back for our last few weeks heading to our final destinations in western Canada.

    After our rest in the rather downcast town of New Waterford - once a mining town with an old coal fired power station nearby, now in the rough process of post industrial transformation (and we in Newcastle know all about that!) - we headed off in a thick fog for the more congenial Cabot Trail on Cape Breton Island via a brief detour to the reconstructed Fort at Louisbourg. The fog did not abate and the cold rain closed in so we abandoned our plans to walk over this huge and historic site. Graham was still recovering from a nasty cold so this was a health decision as much as anything. We were not dismayed or disappointed though, the one thing we have learned is that every trip has its own character and this should be accepted with gratitude and humility for what it is. It’s so great just to see it and to be here!

    Onwards then to the famous Cabot Trail on Cape Breton. This trail follows the spectacular coast of a huge and well loved national park encompassing three mountain peaks and some truly breathtaking scenery. Our drive there however was again through thick Atlantic fog and we were concerned that we would see little of the trail’s delights if this kept up. Happily it didn’t.

    We stayed our first foggy night on the trail at Ingonish in a quaint old B&B called the Island Inn which was established in 1926 and had been receiving travellers on the trail since then. We decided to have dinner at the much lauded Keltic Lodge nearby, styled as one of the great hotels of Nova Scotia. Fabulous location, lovely architecture but very disappointing food. Go for the view … but buy your fish & chips at the local takeaway! This was followed by a comfortable night back at the Inn and after a hot breakfast cooked by our host, we headed off on the spectacular drive through the park as the welcome sunshine made its presence felt.
    Okumaya devam et

  • The Cabot Trail on Cape Breton

    4 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 5 °C

    The Cabot Trail makes a 298-kilometre loop around a sizeable chunk of Cape Breton Island. Some images of this internationally acclaimed trail only give an impression of its scale and beauty. For a deeper appreciation you would need to stay longer, walk more on the many hiking tracks, and camp out in the lovely forest. It’s a destination all by and for itself.Okumaya devam et

  • Cheticamp

    4 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    Our next destination was Cheticamp, the largest town on the Cabot Trail. We arrived in good order ready for our late lunch. We chose Le Gabriel restaurant and bar. Perfect - I had their famous chowder which I can report was divine, and he had the fish tacos, equally delicious by report. We stayed for two nights at the Silver Lining Inn. Our room was “the best” she had to offer according to our charming and loquacious landlady - and it was very nice with largest king size bed we had yet encountered. Giving us a kettle, a toaster, a couple of mugs and some cutlery as they weren’t ready to provide breakfast usually included in the tariff, she quickly disappeared and we had the place to ourselves - and no wifi password. Not a problem although I did miss access to the Great All-Knowing Google for answering random questions like “food near me?” and so on.

    Cheticamp is a fishing village with Arcadian roots, so once again the French influence was strong. This translated into colourfully painted buildings, lots of inventive decorative features, and neat and tidy yards. This last was aided by a special weather event called Les Suetes, a fierce foehn wind that means that the houses have nothing in the yard that can be blown away - no fences, carports, garden ornaments and so on.

    Nova Scotia ( literally “New Scotland”) generally sports many familiar Scottish names, such as Glasgow, Inverness, Glen this and that, Highlands this and that, tartans and handmade knits, ceilidh music, and so on. But it also has French and Indigenous names. It’s a wonderful melange. At dinner last night we heard the people at the next table moving comfortably and naturally in and out of French and English languages. I was envious of this ease.

    Famous Nova Scotians include country & western singer Hank Snow, Anne Murray, Ruby Keeler, and Alexander Graham Bell.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Prince Edward Island

    8 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    Prince Edward Island is Canada’s smallest province. It’s probably best known for a little fictional person named Anne of Green Gables but it is also rapidly growing as a foodie haven and a holiday Mecca. It’s no wonder because the place is so picturesque, full of neatly arranged farms and charming seaside villages.
    We have a lovely little house at Brackley Beach, just near the National Park, for six nights. The island is joined to the mainland by the Confederation Bridge, 12.9 kilometres in length and the longest bridge in the world over water that freezes. The bridge is called “Confederation” because Charlottetown, the capital of Prince Edward Island, is recognized as the birthplace of Canadian Confederation in 1864. I don’t know why the engineers who designed the bridge had to have ugly concrete barriers that blocked the view for any passengers in ordinary cars (like me for example!) along each side of the bridge. It’s like being in a tunnel above the ground- see my little video which shows nothing but the road ahead and the concrete!
    Anyway we have had a lovely relaxing time here. We have been to Charlottetown a couple of times, explored the Cathedral there, and walked along the foreshores inside the national park, and around our suburb. Tomorrow we leave for an overnighter in Truro because we want to visit a wildlife sanctuary nearby, then on to Saint John to witness the amazing tides in the Bay of Fundy.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Shubenacadie Wildlife Park

    13 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The Shubenacadie (pronounced "Shoo-ben-ack-a-dee") Wildlife Park has been run by the government for about 60 years. It comprises 40 hectares of waterways and enclosures containing some of North America's iconic animal species. In this post you will see some of these animals inexpertly photographed by us and you might be tempted to feel sorry for these beautiful creatures behind chain mail fences. But after reading the policies of the park we were reassured that the animals’ best interests were being taken into account. The park's website says:
    "Most of the animals at the park come to us from other zoological facilities in North America where they are born in captivity. They feel at ease around people and related activities so they are usually visible to the visiting public. A few have been received from members of the public who kept wildlife as "pets". Once they reach maturity these animals are usually no longer wanted. They cannot be released to the wild, so they are sent to our park for rehabilitation and care. It is the Park's policy to provide the best possible care to orphaned and sick animals in need, with the ultimate goal being release back to the wild. Some of the animals come to us from the wild as very small orphans with severe injuries. Even though they receive medical attention and the best possible care, some injuries could not be repaired so the animals have to remain at the Park, or be put down. Some of the very young orphans require such intensive care that they become imprinted on humans. To release these animals to the wild would not be in their best interest as they will often fall victim to human activities."
    We were really chuffed to see such majestic animals as the black bear and the cougar up close. Some of the birds were simply awe-inspiring. We only get 10 pictures per post so see what you think ...
    Okumaya devam et

  • Alma & the Fundy National Park

    15 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ 🌙 6 °C

    Truro Best Western Motel was a treat after our long day that included Shubenacadie Wildlife Park. We had a great night, followed by the best breakfast I had had so far. Graham wasn’t feeling too well however so even his freshly prepared mushroom omelette didn’t go down well. Thankfully he improved as the day went on and in reaching the charming fishing village,
    of Alma - "The Home of the Highest Tides in the World" - he was able to enjoy his chowder for lunch. We then drove into Fundy National Park. Our day ended at Chateau Saint John, a stylish hotel just off the freeway.
    The city of Saint John has a long and fascinating history. This from a brochure on its deep history:

    “The geology of Saint John is about 1.2 billion years old, and it was once connected to Africa. This land, the Wabanaki (Land of the Dawn), is the traditional territory of the Wolastoqiyik. The tribal groups belonging to
    the Wabanaki confederacy are Maliseet, Mi’kmaq, Passemaquoddy, Penobscot and Abenaki. The first European to explore this area was Portuguese explorer Estavan Gomez who, in 1535, identified a river on the east coast as the “Rio de la Buelta” (River of the Return).” Then came the French, the English, and finally the Loyalists from the American Revolution. They established the city. In 1877 a fire destroyed much of the city including 1600+ homes. Today it’s a really interesting amalgam of various architectural styles. From the same brochure:
    “1) Georgian, 1785-1840 - This style is a simple, confidently dignified rectangular block with a carefully balanced facade.
    2) Greek Revival, 1800-1880 - This style emphasized the classical proportions of Greek temples as symbols of the stability and optimism of this Colonial expansion period.
    3) Gothic Revival, 1825-1880 - This style emerged as a rebellion against the stricter formality of earlier classical styles. It embraced many of the features of medieval cathedrals.
    4) Italianate, 1850-1890 - This style also emerged as a rebellion against the stricter formality of earlier classical styles. It embraced many of the characteristics of Italian farmhouses.
    5) Second Empire, 1860-1900 - This style, which is also called Mansard, imitated the latest cosmopolitan building fashions in France.
    6) Queen Anne Revival, 1880-1915 - This style is vivacious and uninhibited, with each home having its own unique features, but all using asymmetrical massing. Towers or turrets are common features.”
    Fascinating huh?
    Okumaya devam et

  • Random Observations from Rivière-du-Loup

    16 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    1. Spring has sprung!
    One of the wonderful things about travelling for a decent interval in the northern hemisphere is witnessing the seasons change. For us the coming of spring has been quite miraculous. Where once the forests looked like death camps for trees other than the evergreen pines, they have now sprung back into life with the most glorious dense apple green. This is turning the harsh winter views into gentle vistas.

    2. Of Supermarkets
    Just as we have Coles and Woolworths in Australia, in Canada you have Sobeys and Atlantic. Latterly Walmart superstores are trying to elbow them out. In Australia we are Woolworths people, but here we have become Sobeys people although we have tried Walmart. Sobeys sliced artisan bread is lovely! These shops are very like our supermarkets, only bigger. Aesthetically utilitarian and ugly, the one big difference is that they have a working pharmacy in the middle. But without doubt the most aesthetically pleasing supermarket until just today was in the ugliest town - Drumheller. There at Fresno Brothers, they had made a real effort to beautify the place. There was a cafe behind a floral screen where the local old boys were having their morning coffee; there were decorative floral displays on the ends of aisles and not all aisles were symmetrically laid out or of the same height. There were actual displays of different types to tempt buyers with little delights. This same approach was replicated today at the IGA store in Rivière. I just love this approach to shopping for food and our supermarkets could make an effort in this direction.

    3. Language matters
    Quebec province feels like another country, not Canada in some fundamental way. They speak French exclusively, and what is more, they expect you to speak French too. We were warned of this by a Canadian woman in Saint John. She said that they will switch to English once they hear you try to speak their language- unless you are American! But, like the French in France, they like you to try. All over Canada, the road and other signs are bilingual: English and French. But in Quebec Province they are only in French. This speaks to their particularly proud francophone identity. In fact Quebec has voted in the past over leaving in the Canadian confederation- but the proposition failed to get the required number of votes. Having been here in Rivière-du-Loup only a few hours, we have had nothing but courtesy and good humour from everyone we have met as we mangled their mother tongue.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Parc des Chutes, Rivière-du-Loup

    17 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Yesterday we went for a walk in the Parc des Chutes nearby. This lovely park contains many walking trails and we walked the black trail. Very relaxing way to take exercise.

  • Lévis & Quebec Lower Old Town

    19–20 May 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We arrived in Lévis in good order and easily found our Airbnb on Rue St Laurent. This place overlooks the water and faces towards Quebec with its dreamlike beauty, dominated by the magnificent old railway hotel, Chateau Frontenac. Rather than drive into Quebec we chose instead to stay on the other side of the St Lawrence Seaway at Lévis and catch the ferry. This ferry runs very frequently- every half hour from both sides- and costs very little. We are lucky that our hosts provide the cost of the ferry trip as part of the Airbnb rental. How good is that?
    Today our first full day, we took the ferry and concentrated on the Lower Old Town of Quebec. We’d had a late start because of a serious plumbing issue- the shower drain was blocked. But our hosts were just fantastic, responding immediately and we were able to get away at lunchtime leaving the problem in their hands.
    After a very good light lunch on the ancient Rue St Pierre and a little walk, we went to the Musée de la civilisation. There we explored the excellent exhibition by the Indigenous Nations of Quebec called “Our Story”. It was brilliant and very moving at times. The use of so-called “education”, for example in the disastrous residential schools, as a weapon of colonisation was very prominent. Another aspect was the ongoing struggle of all these proud peoples for justice, recognition, and land rights,
    We have had a chilly trip so far - which we have both enjoyed. However today was very warm reaching 26 C and we basked in beautiful sunshine all day, with even something approaching a summer storm at its end. Tomorrow we plan our assault on the Upper Old Town. More of Quebec to come …
    Okumaya devam et

  • Upper Old Town Quebec

    21 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    After a very leisurely start and a chat to the owner of our Airbnb who was doing some spring gardening out the front, we made our way to the ferry. On the Quebec side we took the steepest funicular I have ever been on. It was fantastic and a great way to ascend the heavenly heights to Quebec’s Upper Old Town. There we were immediately greeted by a huge statue of Samuel de Champlain who played a major role in establishing New France from 1603 to 1635. (New France existed at one time alongside New England, New Spain and New Holland - even the Russians had a go!) He is also credited with founding Quebec City in 1608.
    We found our way then into the Chateau Frontenac where we had a lovely not too overpriced lunch with a gorgeous view. Very special! Afterwards we walked around the old upper city and went inside of the very impressive Catholic Basilica, aka Notre-Dame de Québec Basilica-Cathedral. These places rile me up. Gold everywhere and a candle to light on an altar will cost you 2 or 5 dollars depending on the size. Then there was a presentation on the life of Canadian “saint”, Francois Laval who “loved the Indians”. Give me strength! As a missionary he helped dispossess them. Sorry folks, it’s a case of “don’t get me started”!!
    But to end on a positive note, how wonderfully the citizens of Quebec have kept and present their historic walled city.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Montreal!

    25 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Montreal, a contraction of “Mount Royal” apparently, is about the size of Sydney - 4 million + people. It’s big, bustling and busy. So we were very glad not to have to worry about the car which we dropped off at the airport yesterday before taking a taxi to our Airbnb. In a way we were sad to say goodbye to the car because it had been our only real home for the last eight weeks, and had never skipped a beat even though we had driven over 10,000 kilometres in it. On the other hand it was something of a relief to be free of it, especially for Graham who has been simply amazing as driver throughout. But I felt it too. Being the compulsory passenger can also have its challenges, especially as navigator (not my forte since I can sometimes be what I call dyslexic of right and left directions. When I say left and gesture to the right, Graham droll as ever, calls it “the other left”).

    Our studio apartment in Montreal is on Rue William, just on the edge of the historic old town, and today we went out for our first walk. The sun was shining and the streets were filled with all sorts of people: tourists like us; young & old Montreal folk out for the day; apartment dogs taking their owners for a walk: even a few couples getting married. It was all very jolly but we decided after a nice walk and a lunch, we would postpone Gallery and historic landmark viewing until Monday when it won’t be so busy.

    Road and other works are going on all over the place and Graham commented that “like Newcastle, Montreal will be great when it’s finished.”
    Okumaya devam et

  • Notre Dame Basilica, Montréal

    27 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Over the years we have been lucky enough to travel overseas, Graham and I have visited many cathedrals and churches. But today, at Notre Dame Basilica in Montreal, I believe that we saw the most beautiful high altar we have ever seen. The use of blue light is striking. Judge for yourself.

    The cathedral quite uniquely also charts much of the local history and historical personalities. There are many female saints included in these stories, For example, Saint Marguerite d'Youville, founder of the Grey Nuns, is depicted in a chapel “Giving to the Poor” (1991). The altar in this chapel was the high altar of the old Notre-Dame church. Marguerite d'Youville was beatified and proclaimed “Mother of Universal Charity" by Pope John XXIII in 1959 and then became the first Canadian woman to be canonized in 1990. Then there is Kateri Tekakwitha (1656-1680), baptized as Catherine, from the Kanien'kehá:ka nation (often referred to as the Mohawk nation), the first North American Indigenous person to be canonized.

    The intimate relationship between religion and pedagogy is exemplified in the story of Saint Marguerite Bourgeoys (1620-1700). She was the city's first teacher. And overall you could say that cathedrals as physical objects teach stories in visual displays and architectural shapes. They also strive to teach emotions too, especially reverence and awe. It was very effective at this type of teaching as far as we were concerned!

    Luciano Pavarotti gave a concert in the Cathedral in 1978. The whole concert is on YouTube but for a snippet, go to https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bb5tzATl4oo
    (You may need to copy and paste the address of search YouTube.)
    Okumaya devam et

  • The Art of Georgia O’Keeffe

    28 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Today we went to the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts. Wow what a fabulous place! We were lucky to be in town for a blockbuster exhibition on the modernist art of American Georgia O’Keeffe (1887– 1986) and Englishman Henry Moore (1898-1986). Although the exhibition was predicated on the idea that these two artists were pursuing similar methodologies, ideas and themes, this footprint will concentrate on her art.

    O’Keeffe was a modernist painter often called the “Mother of American Modernism”. She lived for many years in the desert lands of Ghost Ranch, New Mexico. She was interested in natural forms and found objects, especially rocks, shells, flowers and bones. Often the space between or inside things, as much as the things themselves, was shown as meaningful for reflecting on the correspondences with human experience. I just love her flower paintings. At the heart of her paintings of flowers are qualities of elegance, grace, beauty, and vibrant colour. We are brought into her deep looking at flowers through her art.
    Okumaya devam et

  • Montréal Art Gallery 2

    28 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Henry Moore’s sculptures are very well known and I think his forms have so entered our mental artscapes that we are hardly aware of his influence. Included here are a few other artworks we saw on our visit to this beautiful gallery, the new wing of which had echoes of the Guggenheim in New York - all white and airy.Okumaya devam et

  • Streetcapes of Montréal

    28 Mayıs 2024, Kanada ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    This short post features street images from a couple of days in Montréal. The city’s famous Underground City is a fabulous pedestrian network under the heart of the city. It links metro stations to shopping plazas for over 33 kilometres. Inclement weather, hot sun or deep snow, will not prevent Montreal citizens who want to stroll, shop and eat! We had lunch at Desjardins food court, and can absolutely see the charms of life underground.Okumaya devam et

  • Home

    3 Haziran 2024, Avustralya ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Our flights - from Montreal to Vancouver and Vancouver to Sydney, went well if not smoothly there being quite a bit of turbulence here and there. Still we arrived back in good old Oz happy to be home after our adventures in Canada. We are so grateful for the opportunity to see this beautiful country. Thanks to all for following our travels, we were so happy to have you along for the ride. Happy trails people!Okumaya devam et

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