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Chilean Fjords & Rapa Nui
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Chilean Fjords & Rapa Nui

A 30-day adventure by Charlesi Read more
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  • Trip start
    March 10, 2024
    Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Deja Vu

    March 11, 2024 in Germany ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C

    It’s lunchtime and we’re now back in the Frankfurt departure lounge, our Buenos Aires flight having been rescheduled for 13:30hrs today. It’s been totally chaotic (Charles lost his coat in the chaos!) and we’ve lost a day in Buenos Aires, but thankfully we allowed a couple of days there before joining the group tour.

    Our flight is confirmed for 13:45hrs so we won’t arrive there until midnight although, having said that the flight was further delayed until 15:00hrs!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Mid Flight

    March 11, 2024, North Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 26 °C

    We’re now roughly midway on our flight to Buenos Aires, travelling at 559 ground mph at an altitude of 38,450 feet and a total flight time of 13:50hrs

    Thankfully Lainey is not snoring! 🤔

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Hotel Alvear Art, Buenos Aires

    March 12, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Scary…started to land and we suddenly increased speed and altitude…what’s going on!? Found out there was still a plane on our runway that couldn’t be moved in time for our landing so the pilot had had to do a quick zoom away, circle, then land on a different runway. We finally got to bed at 03:00hrs. We’re 3 hrs behind U.K. time so woke early anyway to sheet lightning like we’ve never seen before. The one thing we didn’t plan for was thunderstorms!

    We did brave some sightseeing between heavy showers and when we got back to the hotel we went up to the 17th floor swimming pool which has a glass roof so we had spectacular views of the lightening storm as we swam, scaring ourselves silly, at one point, when a thunderbolt cracked right above us. The skyline was amazing and buildings just seemed to disappear in the rain, which was torrential!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
    View from our bedroom
    View from our bedroom

    Hotel Emperador - Buenos Aires

    March 13, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ 🌩️ 25 °C

    We moved hotels at 10:00hrs this morning and fortunately the new hotel (Emperador) had our room ready 😁. We had a second breakfast 😁 then went for a walk in the rain, needless to say a short one. We sat under cover at a pavement cafe for a while, watching the world go by, then back to the hotel and spent the rest of the day in their very nice basement pool.

    Early night as up at 04:30hrs tomorrow to catch an 08:30hrs flight to Ushuaia.

    Busy morning already but now at airport with other Quark guests, just waiting to board! 🙏    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Ushuaia

    March 14, 2024 in Argentina ⋅ ☁️ 8 °C

    Arrived in Ushuaia and spent time in the City. Caught our first sight of the Ultramarine which apparently has just returned from Antarctica. Lainey spent time with some jailbirds and we finished up having a lamb lunch, which was amazingRead more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
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    Cape Horn

    March 15, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Still expecting to arrive Cape Horn at 11:00hrs. weather has been quite wild with winds running at 45/50 knots and swell at 4.5m, so somewhat blustery.

    13:05hrs passing Cape Horn and realising the weather is ‘unreal’ so we are unlikely to be landing here or indeed heading down to circumnavigate Diego Ramirez Islands…time will tell!Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Return to…

    March 15, 2024, South Atlantic Ocean ⋅ 🌬 6 °C

    Checking the ships tracker confirmed we’re not continuing onto Diego Ramirez Islands but returning to Beagle Channel, due to gale force winds exceeding 45/50 knots and 4.5 metre swells, we’re now taking a back route to Glacier Alley with a Zodiac landing to see the Pia Glacier vistas and, hopefully, a further Zodiac cruise/exploration of the Garibaldi Glacier…lookout for Andean Condors…

    Dinner was superb with fabulous views of the sunset over the Channel and much calmer waters there    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Glacier Ally

    March 16, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Sadly we missed calling at Diego Ramirez Island due to gale force winds and 4.5m swells so we head to our next call Glacier Ally, via the Beagle Channel, arriving at 07:00hrs. We nearly had a superb sunrise but sadly this was quickly obscured by cloud.

    On the other hand I did manage to catch sight of a Black-browed Albatross so starting to feel a little better about missing Diego Ramirez Islet    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Pai and Garabaldi Glacier

    March 16, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ -1 °C

    Proceeding through Glacier Ally, as it’s nicknamed, is one of the most spectacular passages in Tierra del Fuego

    Situated within the protected boundary of the Alberto de Agostini National Park, both Pai and Garabaldi Glaciers sit at the head of often ice-choked Fjords that offer stunning views and are accessed via a very narrow inlet

    We went by Zodiac for a wet landing to Pia Glacier, it was amazing…we could hear the glacier cracking and rumbling, or booming, which is quite eerie, and we actually saw several calvings, albeit small but earning several ooohs and aaahs!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Aguila Glacier - Agostini Fjord

    March 17, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Amazing views and real ‘weather’ in the space of an hour we’ve had sun, rain, hail and snow…literally in minutes whole mountains become shrouded in mist to totally disappear, it’s beyond belief…not even Wales can beat that!

    The scenery is truly dramatic with stark rock covered in snow and then thick forest at their feet as we depart the sun is just starting to send a ray out here and there which highlights the peaks

    This morning we explored, by Zodiac, the areas within the Agostini Fjord, most noticeable is the Aguila Glacier. The Agostini Fjord is a lagoon surrounded by lush sub-Antarctica forest in Agostini Sound., the Danielle Glacier, sometimes called Aguilla, Spanish for Eagle Glacier, is a unique sight as it appears to flow over rolling hills rather than mountains

    This afternoon was a Zodiac cruise, no landing, to view the drama of the glaciers footprint an opportunity to get close and from ‘upfront’, although not so close you’re in danger from calving!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
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    Strait of Magellan

    Mar 19–20, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    Simply traversing the Strait of Magellan today so an air of relaxation pervades, catching up with logs and diaries for most whilst enjoying the scenery. However we’re also having our helicopter rides today to sightsee Felix Bay, our Group (Whale) is second in line, so waiting for our call!

    It is quite something but and it would’ve been superb to have had longer up but views incredible, not to be missed!    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Kirke Pass

    March 19, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    We’ve just sailed through the Kirke Pass. 6 miles long with rugged greenery either side. As we approached the entrance, Estrada Point, it narrows to a tiny passageway which can only be navigated at slack tide. We spent a happy couple of hours watching dolphins, seal’s and even a Flat Tail Beaver playing around the ship while waiting for the tide to be right.

    We’re through…now it’s just a 2 hrs sailing before reaching Puerto Natales where we are spending time and visiting the Torres del Paine National Park    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
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    Puerto Natales

    Mar 19–21, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Arrived here in Puerto Natales, this is a city of some 21,000 in the Magallanes Region. The province is called Ultimate Esperanza (Last Hope) named by sailor Juan Ladrilleris, who was seeking the Magellan Strait in 1557. It was his ‘last hope’ to find the channels between the Pacific and the mainland to enable Spain to reap riches from the spices of the East, and then let Drake (El Draque) commandeer them, It is also the gateway to Torres del Paine National Park

    We went to Torres del Paine National Park yesterday but today (Thursday 21) decided to explore the town, the people are so friendly and helpful, it is sad to think the increasing number of ‘cruise’ ships may well detract from this! We had a seafood lunch at a superb little restaurant La Disqueria, although you do have to worry about a beer with this advertising on the bottle…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B
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    Torres del Paine

    March 21, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌫 0 °C

    Torres del Paine National Park, in Chile’s Patagonia region, is known for its soaring mountains, bright blue icebergs that cleave from glaciers and golden pampas (grasslands) that shelter rare wildlife such as llama-like guanacos. One of its most iconic sites is the 3 granite towers from which the park takes its name and the horn-shaped peaks called Cuernos del Paine, Torre Sur D’Agostini (2,850m), Torre Central (2,800m) and Torre Norte Manzino (2,600m)Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Departing Puerto Natales

    March 22, 2024 in Chile ⋅ 🌙 3 °C

    Leaving Puerto Natales, at 22:00hrs last night we’re now at our next port of call the entrance to Canal White, this narrow inlet leads us into Canal des las Montanas

    We were up for the sunrise which, believe me, is far better than the pictures show. Some of the guests will be ‘enjoying’ a Helicopter landing, while we await the slack tide to allow us into Canal White

    Canal White was first navigated by the Kawesqar people around 6,000 until the 20th century. The channel is 6 miles long from Santa Maria Canal to Admirante Montt Gulf

    After lunch we are looking to explore the Canal des las Montanas for a Zodiac wet landing…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Entrance to the White Canal

    March 22, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We were waiting for Hurtigruten ‘Fram’ to exit the White Canal at which point, 12:02hrs, with a blast of the horn we proceeded to enter accompanied by dolphins, faster than light birds called Flightless Steamerducks (there is also a Flying Steamerduck) and, of course, our Zodiacs…Lainey’s out there on one somewhere

    Again unbelievable views, we’ve stopped for the moment to bring the Zodiacs back on board and we should be getting the Helicopters back soon too!

    I’ll enter up a couple more ‘footprints’ as we progress the Canal…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Canal des las Montanas

    March 22, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    This channel is actually a dead end and it has some incredible rock formations, almost as if, in its formative stage, it was folded

    I took a random picture off the bridge, pictures 8 & 9, and realised it’s actually a Condor distinctive by its fingertip wings

    We’ve decided to visit the Bernal Glacier which is one of five glaciers along the Canal des las Montanas. This canal is 41 miles long with crystal clear waters and stunning waterfalls it is also home to the southern glacial flows of the ‘South Patagonian Ice Fields’. The glaciers include the Parades, Alsina Kiara, Hermann, Bernal and Zamudio    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Onward to Paso Tortuosa

    March 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Overnight we travelled through the Paso del Mar and we’re currently in Paso Tortuosa having just past a Marine Nature Reserve, Lainey spotted a Flat Tail Beaver, and we’re now heading to Isla Carlos III

    Situated in the western part of the Strait of Magellan, in the Magellan and Chilean Antarctic Region, the isla Carlos III is located in the centre of the Francisco Coloane Marine and Coastal Protected Area which is Chiles first marine reserve    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Isla Carlos III

    March 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 7 °C

    We will be held approximately one mile, to the South, East, of Isla Carlos III and hope to Zodiac cruise this morning and again this afternoon

    An amazing morning on the Zodiac cruise, seeing two male Kelp Geese fighting, these Geese mate for life so they were clearly fighting for territory, the loser flew off with his mate and was lucky to survive really. Moving along to a small outcrop we had South American Sea-lions, which were also doing a bit of jostling and then a group of Humpback Whales taking several deep dives so lots of tails and an amazing breach, but I don’t think anyone caught that on camera although I did get the tail end of it!

    At the moment a complete blanket of mist has totally surrounded the whole area, you can only see the one mountain peak from the ship, so hoping the sun burns that off, which amazingly it did half an hour later!

    We’re out cruising again on the Zodiacs this afternoon…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Isla Carlos III - Pt II

    March 23, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    Yes, and there’s more…

    This afternoon we had another Zodiac cruise and saw more Humpback Whales, we did have a bit of a surprise when a couple decided to take a breather some three metres alongside our Zodiac!

    Also around were some Rock Cormorants, Sea Lions and Humming Birds, but they were too fast to photograph, and Dark-bellied Cinclodes, these tiny birds walk on the Kelp and are just amazingly friendly almost landing in the Zodiac

    At the moment Quark are indulging in a Sub-polar Plunge but, seeing as the waters are a warm 10 C and we’re both seasoned Bi-polar Plungers, or Snobs, we have decided to forgo the free Schnapps

    And what a way to end the day, this is our sight while having dinner…    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Angostura Gabriel

    March 24, 2024 in Chile ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    We’re currently ‘ship cruising’ the Angostura Gabriel (Canal Gabriel) a narrow channel leading to our next destination Isolates Tucker. This is a small series of islands and rocky outcrops in Almirantazgo Sound, a fjord off the Strait of Magellan. The Islets are home to Magellanic Penguins, named after Ferdinand Magellan who sighted them in 1520 during the first circumnavigation of the globe

    We’re also hoping to see Chilean Skuas, Magellanic Cormorants, Imperial Cormorants, Oyster Catchers, Kelp Geese and, hopefully, Dolphins    Read more

  • Charlesi Main-BChilean Fjords & Rapa NuiCharlesi Main-B

    Isolates Tucker

    March 25, 2024, South Pacific Ocean ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    Zodiac cruising around and about the islands and outcrops of the Isolates Tucker. Although landing here is prohibited, to protect the nesting habitat, we view the colony of some 4,000+ breeding Magellanic Penguins. This species is native to the region and the sight of them in their burrow, lounging on the beach or waddling in and around the water is not forgotten

    We were hoping to land and Zodiac cruise the Bahia Brookes, which offers stunning waterfalls and glaciers, including the North Brookes Glacier…as it happens a further Helicopter flight was proposed and Lainey took off over Bahia Brookes and had a fabulous flight    Read more

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