The Great White North

September 2017 - April 2024
An open-ended adventure by Jasmine Read more
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  • Day 34

    back to the city...

    October 14, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ -2 °C

    Eventually, the fun had to come to an end. Another week after the blizzard and we were headed back to the city. You're never sure you're leaving until the plane actually shows up because the weather can be forecast to be great, then be complete crap. Or, it may be crap at the departure location but great where you are....gotta be good weather both ways. Luckily for us, after extensions and unavailability of aircraft that caused us to spend almost an additional week on Allen Island, our final scheduled departure actually happened on time and on the scheduled day. However, the weather became bad on our way in and they couldn't get back to get our gear that day. Thank goodness they decided to take us people out first rather than our gear---which was the initial plan because we would have been there to help the pilots load up the gear.
    My first order of business was to do laundry!! The hotel has facilities which is awesome. We all had a wonderful hot shower and enjoyed those fluffy clean beds!!
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  • Day 38

    First tip to avoiding frostbite

    October 18, 2017 ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    I got my first tip for avoiding frostbite today during break time at work. Isn't that the normal convos? "So, yeah, what I do is every little while, I take my mitts off and touch my face to help thaw it back out. Besides, most of the freezing of your face only happens in the first hour. After that, it's not so bad". Me: sitting there wide-eyed, "yeah, after an hour, your skin is already frozen! Of course there's no more freezing!!" But thanks for the tip. I am apparently already in the know because I was doing just that on the way to work. My nose, chin, and cheeks just hurt. I don't want to lose the tip of my nose; it's essential for the whole face to work.

    My nose is having a rough time really. Every day and night, I'm finding bloody bits in there from the dryness. And now, now, it's gonna fall off from frostbite apparently. Poor nose.

    I think living here is gonna be quite the adventure to say the least. I learned today that because our internet is satellite and the sun is passing so low over us now that it will interfere with the satellite signal for several days in October preventing internet. I mean, seriously, who knows about this stuff??!! I'm used to the issues being that the coffee shop is out of the organic pumpkin spice mix for the day...not the sun interfering with the entire communications network of the Arctic.

    Good times.
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  • Day 41

    Philip Morris' stronghold

    October 21, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C

    I cannot remember a time that I've seen so much cigarette smoking. Everyone smokes. I am sure when I grew up in the 80's it was similar, but I was too young to notice. Now, however, with smoking so taboo in so many places, the ubiquitous nature of it here is bizarre. It's not just the locals, it is everyone. You can't buy alcohol legally in town and there are no coffee shops with espresso of course. Maybe nicotine is the only legal drug folks can get away with here...?
    I guess I'm also shocked that since you can't smoke inside work or school or any buildings, that so many people would still smoke....cause it's damn COLD outside. How good is a cigarette really? Is it good enough for -30? I guess if I wasn't allowed to drink my Dr. Pepper inside, I might sneak some hits off a can outside....but I don't know when I'd hit my temperature threshold. The prices alone already have me rationing and altering my behavior. But, nicotine is a whole other beast I think. A pack of smokes goes for $25 and up on Facebook. Usually about $30 for one pack. In the capital, I believe they ran about $22 a pack....so a carton is $220. Wowsa! Even if you only smoked one carton a month ---which is only about a pack every 2.5 days that would be a big bill. Most real smokers I know go through way more than a single pack every 3ish days! A pack a day habit would cost you more than $440 a month!!! !!!!!! <--that needed more exclamation points.
    This place is mind-boggling in many aspects. The smoking is just one.
    Another thing that is bizarre to me is the no shoes at work. I am totally on board with the Canadian and other countries' practice of removing shoes at home. Makes complete sense and I love it. But, let me tell ya, I just feel weird in my little fleece slippers talking to a coworker about compliance issues or an officer about potential illegal bear stuff.....and we're all in our socks, together. I can't help but look at the uniformed officer and think that a bit of his power disappears as I gaze at his white Hanes socks. I won't even mention the weirdness I feel walking into the bathroom at work in my socks. Heeeezzzeeeggh. Is this normal? Does everyone take their shoes off at work??
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  • Day 45

    Now I understand winter goggles...

    October 25, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    Today I laughed out loud as I trudged to work. I laughed because of the ridiculousness of it all. Here I am slipping and sliding through snow and drifts created by the blizzard, which incidentally caused the entire city and government offices to shut down at lunch on Monday, thinking about how I came to be here. The wind was blowing this morning and blasting the small ice kernels right into my face and eyes. I pulled the fur closer to my face to stop the crystals from making it through so I could peer out through the fur. It turns out that in the flat light of a blizzard coupled with the time of day being pre-dawn, it is VERY hard to discern the features of the snow. I couldn't see whether the snow was raised or dipped, crusted or powder, plowed or not. Makes for even more fun walking...into the wind. It was at that moment, while walking into the wind that I just started laughing....and then I quickly stopped because that wind will hurt your damn teeth!

    Vehicles are not having an easy time of it. Yesterday, a pickup was fully engulfed in a ditch...up to it's roof (not hood, roof). Obviously, they didn't know where the edge of the road was and oops, went in the biggest ditch in town. My morning walk was filled with the sounds of spinning tires. Tonight, I tried to help dig out my neighbors who just happened to have moved from the next town over from me in BC! They've been here about 3 months and the husband does not seem to be in good spirits. Well, I don't really blame him because they gave them vehicles with no 4-wheel drive....or a tow rope. Yep, not too bright. They are priority government employees that need to be responsive and they were issued regular ole, run-about-town small SUVs. lolol.

    On the plus side, I got a ride home today from work on a snowmobile. Actually, I got a ride home at lunch too and learned that one does not ride a snowmobile without snow pants. The complete wetting of my entire lower posterior body in 5 minutes taught me that. The snow was crusted on my jeans on the front. Fool me once.....and the snow pants were on.

    Yesterday, the main store was only accepting cash for several hours. These are things that happen up here that are not really common down south.

    I don't know if I've mentioned it yet, but there are many artists in town. Apparently, Igloolik (among other hamlets) is known for producing a lot of artists. Carvers mostly. They come door to door selling their wares. They come several times per week. Sometimes more than one in a night. You get to where you just don't answer the door if you are not interested. It is easier that way. Well, when I first arrived, I saw a carving of a polar bear that balanced separately on each of his legs. It was really cool. That carver came to my door last week with a 2-way standing bear that was much smaller and cheaper than the 4-way standing bear. On the sides are carved a narwhal and walrus. Three animals in one! Last night, the carver approached me again and I bought my first Igloolik carving. It's pretty cute and I am pretty sure I now know what everyone is getting for Christmas!! I know!! Hold your excitement....chotchsky (sp?) from a place you're never gonna visit!

    We are also losing an hour of daylight a week now. In one month, we will begin the 24 hr of darkness.

    Oh, and did I mention that my other neighbors have children that are training to be long-distance runners? Yep, they train nightly by running back and forth, back and forth in the apartment for hours. They intersperse their running with jumping (presumably to build power). I know all of this because their dedication vibrates through my house and shakes me as I sit on the couch.
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  • Day 49

    Inuktitut Bingo

    October 29, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    I had heard that there was Bingo playing on the weekends and boy did my ears perk up. I LOVE bingo. I can't take credit for getting into it though. About ten years ago, my friends drove across the Tennessee state line to Kentucky, where gambling is legal, to play in one of their big bingo halls, replete with coach buses outside bringing the senior citizens to play. I made relentless fun of my friends. Then, they won $1000 and I shut my mouth and joined them. It turns out that it is actually pretty fun. I love the action of searching for the numbers and dobbing the cards. Bright, fun colors. After moving from Tennessee, I drove across the state line in Washington to Idaho, where gambling is legal, to play in the Moose Lodge. It even became a little bit of a thing with other friends and colleagues joining me at the lodge to play Bingo. I have some great memories of our group calling out the Moose call and playing bingo.

    So, when I heard Igloolik had bingo, I was over the moon. Then, I was filled in on the details. There is no gathering. No light-up bingo board. No burgers or beer. Nope, you play bingo here, alone, in your house, by listening to the radio...in Inuktitut. !!! When I told my friend this, she just laughed and laughed and then told me in no uncertain terms that I was not allowed to sit at home, alone, with the cat, gambling by myself. I gave that image some thought and decided she was definitely right. Plus, I don't have a radio. Can't play bingo without a radio.

    I innocently asked my new boss if he had a radio. To which he replied, "yes, an old one. Why, you playin bingo?" Bahahaha. I said, "Nope, WE'RE playin bingo". He laughed it off until I showed up at his door with bingo cards.

    You have to buy the bingo cards from the radio station. Which, I of course, had to find first. Because the town is so small, there are no real addresses and no signs on the buildings. So, you just have to know which building is what. I went inside and was, of course, the only non-local in there. Not a bit of English being spoke. But, the good news is that most every adult CAN speak English if they want so I know I can communicate if necessary. I bought a pack, they stamped them all with the date to make sure I wasn't using older cards I guess, and took my name down. There were other little scratch-offs and stuff that you could buy too, but I didn't look into that.

    I gathered my bingo bag, some snacks, and a real sense of bingo excitement! Showed up at boss's door, barged in and told him to GET THE RADIO WE HAVE NO TIME!! How do we know when they start? We can't speak Inuktitut! Can't miss the numbers cause there's no one to ask!! Cmon man, let's go!!! Turns out I was about 15 min early. Oops.

    I pulled out the cards and my boss exclaimed, "Holy shit! Is this for a year of bingo?!!" Having never played before, his reaction was exactly the same as newcomers I'd drug along to bingo in the past. Hilarious. I had to explain the key. It shows the different shapes and games that we were gonna play. Here, for each game, you actually dob not one, but 9 cards simultaneously, which can be a bit overwhelming. He was overwhelmed. And, if you don't understand how the numbers are split exclusively into the specific columns of B I N G and O, it's quite overwhelming thinking you have to search each, entire card, for one little number. I was cracking up because it brought back so many memories of the folks at the Moose Lodge freaking out that they have to make an "M" or "small picture frame" on their bingo cards....x 9.

    So there we were, listening to nothing we could understand when all of a sudden we think we here English spattering of "n g o", "one bingo anyway" but it's interspersed with Inuktitut so we're straining and worried we're gonna miss it. Then we heard it! A definite bingo number. Thankfully, they call the numbers in English. But, everything else is in Inuktitut so you've got your ears perked and listening for that one little snippet of English. My boss becomes mad that he didn't have any of that number. Then, I lean over and gently show him that he had that number on 3 of his 9 cards and we burst out laughing because nothing makes you feel dumber than not being able to read numbers on a game you play as a child. It really takes you down a notch. I know, I've been there.

    Also what throws you off is that people call the radio station throughout the bingo to ask about numbers they might have missed or ask a question. Again, we hear a phone ringing, then indecipherable Inuktitut, back and forth, back and forth, and then, seemingly out of the blue, "N44". And off you go! Gotta stay alert with this Inuktitut bingo. They call fast and, to us, with no warning (since we can't understand...they may be saying, "okay, get ready, here we go", but we don't know that).

    There is incentive to play because the big jackpot is 2 grand! That's basically one ticket to Iqaluit and back. lololol.

    It was fun--at least for me and I definitely have plans to have a bingo party in the future! I think that getting together a few people would be a good time! I have enough dobbers to go around!
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  • Day 51

    No pumpkins but a lot of pumped kids

    October 31, 2017 ⋅ ☁️ -21 °C

    You know who doesn't care that it's -8F and feels like -31F (-22/-35C)? Kids. Kids on Halloween. And they were RUNNING from house to house. For a place where treats and sweets are priced like gold, the opportunity to get FREE sugar from strangers is their utopia. I mean, kids everywhere love Halloween, but here, with the prices and luxury of candy, Halloween becomes the childrens' Shangri-La (if Shangri-La were not a place, but a day....you know what I'm getting at). AND, the kids are not dumb. They specifically target all the government housing units, i.e. all the government employees such as teachers, scientists, HR, IT, whatever. Anyone non-native and they're on the hit list. LIterally gaggles of children swarm the houses sometimes creating a line both UP the stairs to the door and DOWN the stairs as they flit away. Estimates range from 200-400 kids will visit your house. You are warned to be prepared. I was told by the HR person hiring me and told to bring candy with me in order to be able to afford enough. Yeah, right! I would have had to buy a crate load for all the kids that come out.

    I lasted a whole 27 minutes before I was completely candy dry. Trick or treating is not allowed to start until 6pm sharp. And, boy do they start sharp. Those kids are probably like thoroughbreds at the gates before the start of the race. I bet their parents can't get dinner in their keyed up bellies. Apparently, the hullabaloo ends at 8pm....though I'm not sure who still has candy at 8! I suspect these strict hours were established so that all kids had a fair shot at getting some candy since there are not limitless places such as malls, neighborhoods, community events to go to like there are down south. There is a very very finite number of resources here, and by resources I mean Hershey's, so making sure there's a chance for the kids to have some probably created these timing schemes......that's my professional, all of two months in the Arctic, opinion.

    I noticed a lot of homemade, altered garments for costumes as well as face paint. This makes sense since there is no "Halloween" store popping up on the corner to sell exclusively Halloween stuff and Walmart is a mere two day plane ride and roughly 3 grand away in Ottawa......yeah, not a lot of parents going down for a costume shopping trip. And, when the parents may have the opportunity to actually be south, Halloween costumes aren't out for sale. So, the get-ups here are definitely a more traditional sort. One kid had some great Spiderman face painting and I complimented his makeup. His mom or grandma was with him and she was totally stoked. She said it was her first time doing Spiderman makeup.

    Also the same same, but different is seeing kids roll up on snowmobiles and ATV's. The best is when they are being pulled by snowmobile in a qammitik (traditional Inuit sled). Instead of cars parked along the road, just idling off road vehicles.

    I'll know for next year to order up about 1000 lbs of candy.
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  • Day 54

    Is that the fire alarm?

    November 3, 2017 ⋅ 🌫 -19 °C

    Doo tee doo tee doo, minding my own business, clattering away in my office, and all of a sudden I hear this loud, clanging alarm going on. I get up, pad out (you know, cause I'm in my footies), and look around to see what the others are doing. I say, "is that the fire alarm?" "No", comes the reply. "That is the sewage alarm".

    Ah yes, of course it is. The sewage alarm. Excellent. We're still looking at each other. "Ummmm, okay, what do we do about it??!!" You call the city and ask them to come pump your tank. The person I'm looking at is already calling and sorting that out. Apparently there is is a dedicated hotline for these water/sewage issues. Anyone who has lived more than 6 months here knows this number by heart. Again, excellent. I am so looking forward to the day when I wake up, use the bathroom, and discover that that thing don't flush. You see, our houses don't have alarms. Nope, you just discover your sewage tank is full (or water tank empty) when the plumbing stops working, which everyone adores.

    I leave the man to make the call and head back into my office contemplating how long I'll have to hold the bladder that was already voicing its desire to be evacuated. Hmmm. About an hour later, I pad back out, go to the call-man and ask, "Ummmm, how do we know when we can go back to the bathroom??" You see, there's no calming chime or some such noise that indicates "all clear!" That would be handy. The guy looks at me and says, "Oh you're good to go." "How do you know this??", I ask with my ears perked. He tells me that he heard the truck outside. Oh, okay. You just heard the truck. Sure. That seems reasonable. I asked if he was just punking the new person but he assured me that he really did just hear the truck and so he knew it was done. Seems a bit of a dangerous game to play with sewage if you ask me.

    I have been noticing that the cold is starting to seemingly seep into my protective layers. Walking to work, I'm noticing that my arms are feeling the chill. And, my legs are starting to too. Then, today, catching a ride home from work on the ATV, I got an ice-cream headache from the cold air hitting my face. That is bizarre. You get the ice-pick in the forehead sensation with none of the delicious ice cream/slushy reward. What a crock!! I think I'm going to break out the big parka soon. Right now, I am using North Face's "Arctic" parka for women with 550 gram down fill. It's lovely and I really like it. However, the fur is not furry enough---it doesn't hug my face like it needs to and there's no way to tighten it. And, I need the 800-900 gram down fill. In the serious Arctic parkas, the hoods have a wire lining the edge that you can bend to mold to your face shape which allows the furred hood to really block the wind. Secondly, this jackets hood is detachable which sounds like a good thing until you realize that 'detachable' is another word for 'wind holes'. Because it's not sewn on all the way round, wind sneaks in from the sides and gets on my cheeks and face. I've taken to wearing a neck gaiter every day which is nice, but it's getting colder.

    I do like that dress code is non-existent. I've always liked jobs like that. I hate having to look presentable. It's too much dang work! I didn't even bring any jewelry up here. At all. Makeup? I haven't worn any foundation or mascara or whatever for months. Hair? Ha! Hair! You wear a knit cap to and from work and with short hair....mine just looks like every other man's hair here---all wild and smushed and swirled. So that's how we sit around, in socks with hat hair.
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  • Day 56

    Fat bike foolishness

    November 5, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ -21 °C

    I bought this beautiful fat bike, had it shipped up with all my personal belongings, and finally got around to putting on its fat bike rack and panniers. They were awesome. Can carry a cat or 40 lbs of groceries! I was stoked to take her out on her inaugural spin.

    I failed, however, to account for the effects of -11 F (-24C) weather on, well, everything. My lungs, the bike, my legs, the lock.

    Tooling around outside the house was so fun. The sound the fat tires make on the packed snow is really neat and I like it. I got excited so I set off for the store and to buy a jigsaw puzzle I saw on the internet. It was gonna be great! Did I mention that I am currently incubating some Arctic microbe in my chest? Yep, it's giving me a sweet cough and tight chest so far while draining my energy. Super fun...and best time to go for a bike ride in extreme cold.

    Halfway to the store I realized that I could no longer change gears because they'd frozen. The end. That's the gear I'm gonna be in. I get to the store. A little tired but manageable. Go to lock the bike up. The cable lock? Completely frozen. Like a rock. Better anchor than lock. Hmmm...well, that's a waste.

    I grab my store things and start heading out to find my puzzle person. As I've mentioned before, there are no road signs or names and so it's just the house number that you look for. However, the house numbers may or may not make sense. Newer areas of development will have similar numbers, but those new developments may be interspersed in older developments. Thus, the numbers can be all jumbled.

    It also turns out that the store is slightly downhill from home. Hmmm.....things just got a lot more exerting. I know exerting shouldn't be used in a sentence like that, but I wanted to because that's what happened....everything got more 'exerting'. I thought I was going to pass out. My already tight chest was squeezed by the huffing and puffing of the crazy cold air and my legs were fighting against my pants and snowpants and giant rubber boots as I wobbled up the hills. Oooooh, it burned. Everything. I finally got to my street and realized that the puzzle person literally lived in the house next to mine. I realized I'd ridden up town and then around town to find this house and it was next door to mine the whole time. I am not bright on so many levels.

    Kids complimented my bike as I inched by, barely staying vertical. I wheezed, "It's way too hard. Not worth it! Walk!!" I had to take a break before I could haul this thing up the stairs to my house where I wheeled it in and promptly laid prone to recover.

    I went and got the puzzle later. I think that's a better idea for my Igloolik activities...almost positive I won't pass out while puzzling.
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  • Day 62

    A latte AND a haircut!

    November 11, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ❄️ -11 °C

    That's right folks, went to the big city and lived it up! Got a latte one day and a haircut on another day! I bought hummus and a dill cucumber dressing to take back with me. had a fountain pepsi in the city. I went to a restaurant and got macaroni and cheese and a real green salad. The luxury was endless. I stepped off the plane onto the tarmac ramp and my brain's first thought was, "Ooooh, pavement, that's nice under my feet". I kid you not. I didn't even realize I hadn't walked on anything but snow for weeks. There is no pavement in Igloolik, but even if there was, it would be snow covered so it doesn't matter.

    And this is how acclimation starts. Slowly, you forget and don't realize how you're adapting. It's not as if I was walking around thinking, "Man, sure wish I had some pavement to walk on". I have however, been thinking of how I'm going to get my hair cut. I KNOW there has to be someone in town cutting hair in their house. I just have to find a lady with short hair and ask who cuts her hair. Otherwise, I'm going to be learning a lot of voodoo mirror magic trying to cut the back of my hair......probably be a roaring success too. Professional all the way.

    I was down in the city for work and I brought two big suitcases because we get two for free on the work flights. One was empty and the other about half empty. Several other folks do the same. You literally carry empty suitcases around so that you can fill them with whatever you need from the city.....such as hummus....or over the counter medication we don't have here. Whatever you need. I brought back two suitcases filled to the airline's weight limit. Proud of myself. haha.

    Things that you just don't think about. I used to travel as light as I could. Carry on all the way. Even getting back to our houses is different. No one has a vehicle. There were 8 of us traveling. No one has a car. As I've mentioned before, they don't do well here and if something goes wrong, there are no parts stores.... So, how do you get that many people, with their luggage, to their homes? Obviously, the husband of one person carries on of us on the back of the snowmobile to the warehouse where the work truck is kept. We get off the machine, get in the warehouse, and bring the truck to retrieve everyone (since it was work travel, we could use the work truck to tote people home).

    On the plane ride, almost every single person (All 18 passengers) had some sort of winter parka with fur on it. When I looked ahead, all I could see was fur and heads poking above the seats. Even the flight attendant is in snow pants and a parka. Children have their parkas specially customized to include fur around the hoods. I was getting advice on how to alter my parka's fur so that it was better at protecting my face. I really want some seal skin mitts. I've been told those or wolf/dog skin mitts are the best. That I will really need them. I never thought I'd be pining for wolf or dog skin mittens and checking out folks that were wearing them in a jealous type way. "Man, I WANT those!" lolol. So far, my hands have stayed quite warm in the Outdoor Research brand mitts I've been wearing. But, again, I'm always walking and generating heat when I'm outside. I have heavier duty mitts, but haven't needed them yet.

    In the city, it was so warm, that I was walking about without a hat or gloves. It was 10 F (-12C). Never thought that would happen and it already is after just a few short weeks here. I can't wait to see what I'm wearing when it's 30 F (-1C)!! Bathing suit time!!

    So, the point of this blog is to say, I think I'm acclimating and not even realizing it.
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  • Day 64

    Hallelujah for humidifier

    November 13, 2017 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ -22 °C

    I am beyond excited. My humidifier arrived today! I think I'm going to set her up on my bedside table and stare lovingly into the mist as it soothes my aching nose to sleep. The say absence makes the heart grow fonder and I believe this should be applied to inanimate objects as well, not just relationships. Take the humidifier for example. I did not have one. My nose and throat have been aching for weeks. It's been awful. I can't simply go peruse various shopping establishments to get one. I order it and have to wait for almost two weeks. Then, it arrives but the store closes at 6pm and I arrived by plane at 540. Was not able to make it. The next day was Remembrance Day (Veteran's Day) so the store was closed. The next day was Sunday so the post office was closed. FINALLY, TODAY was the day to get my precious package!! There she was, tiny yet powerful. I am so tired of blowing bloody pieces from my nose. It just isn't right! I'm tired of sleeping with the sheets over my face and dry coughing throughout the night. I faced this similar stuff in Mongolia, but I was only there for a month so I could deal. If this humidifier is broken for some reason, I will most definitely be crying...real tears.

    That's it folks. That's my life. Revolves around getting a humidifier at the post office. I mean I did grab a few other grocery items, but as usual, there were key missing ones like creamer. That stuff is rare---always empty on the shelves. I'm going to have to buy them out the next time it's in. They did have milk so that will have to do.

    I braved a -36C (-33F) windchill to get my mighty mucous membrane healer. I was fortunate however, to catch a ride to the store from my boss cause he was going to the post office as well. Apparently, it was too cold for his ATV to start so he had to clear off and start the snowmobile. He says and I quote, "Fuck it's cold!" I take in the fact that he has goggles and a face protector on while he says this. I instantly recoil and think, "Nope, I can't go outside. If this crazy arctic person thinks it's cold, I will certainly die." But then, I think of my humidifier and I think of all the other people that manage to survive this....and I pull on my mitts and hop on the back!

    My boss also tells me that he hopes the snowmobile stays running because he has warm weather spark plugs in it?? Whaaaa?? Does anyone know what that means? Are there different spark plugs for warm and cold weather?? Is the gap different? I don't know anything about this. In this instance, the snowmobile did great, got our packages, hunkered down hiding from the wind, and made it back home in less than 20 min. I'm gonna have to get some sort of motorized transport. I am far too lazy to keep up this walking nonsense and lord knows I ain't biking!!
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