Italy 2019

This was really fun although, like any group tour, pricey at about €100 each. We felt in the end it was worth it as it lasted almost four hours and was a walking tour, history tour, food tour, snacking and dinner all in one. We met on Tiber Island and each stop in this seven course moveable feast is described. There were 3 other couples on the tour with us from Australia and the USA. Our guide Rish grew up in Trastevere and had decided to return to do this work although he had been trained in sociology and had a good desk job at the United Nations. His mother was from India, his father from England and he grew up hearing Hindi, English and Italian. He was greeted warmly by every establishment we went to and things were perfectly timed.

Trastevere's ivy-coated, cobblestone streets come alive at night, earning it comparisons to Greenwich Village and Paris's Left Bank. This is where Romans eat with their families and where young Romans go for nightlife. This old quartiere features some of Rome's best loved foodie places, run by the same local families for generations.

Da Enzo Al 29
Started the evening like all Romans do with an aperitivo at one of Trastevere's most adored trattorias. Very unpretentious and small, booked up for dinner in 5 days already. It is the end of artichoke season and there is a particular type of artichoke that is deep fried hole, sprinkled with salt and then cold water producing a very light, nongreasy treat (yes you eat stem and all). Served with a glass of Prosecco.

Ristorante Spirito di Vino
Spirito di Vino is an award winning slow food local favorite perfect for a wine tasting in their ancient wine cellar. It is housed in a medieval building once used as a synagogue and the Hebrew letters can be seen on the pillars. The cellar dates back to 80 AD. We had "Caesar stew" following a recipe from Roman times and said to be favoured by Julius Caesar himself. Doug was a bit bummed out as he had the carrot soup instead of the stew given he had listed shellfish allergy and it had some fish paste in it. However he was wowed by the 5000 bottles of wine we were surrounded with and the cellar itself which is an archaeologically protected site. We had a "a young red Sangiovese wine" which was quite light and enjoyable.

Biscottificio Artigiano Innocenti
Next, we got dessert in early at a bakery in operation since the 1950s - a 16 foot oven was installed at that time. Wonderful cookies and cakes and we bought some to take home with us.

Antica Norcineria Iacozzilli
A "norcineria" is a store when has "everything to do with pig" and the specialty is their porchetta - delicious. It is the belly around another part of the pig which is slow roasted for 7 hours with garlic and rosemary. Then put on high heat so the outside becomes crackly. Served on pizza blanco - delishioso. A small glass of beer with that.

Suppli Roma
Rome's favourite street food snack, a rice ball with cheese centre fried to perfection.

Trattoria Casa Mia
Run by Donatella and her nephew Fabio, this cozy trattoria serves up real cucina romana. Their pasta specialities include handmade tonnarelli cacio e pepe and amatricianea which was served to us with a red wine.

Fatamorgana
We ended our meal with tips on gelato and going to a spot in business since the 1970s. Rish told us about 75% of gelaterias sell 'fake gelato' distinguished by too intense a colour and being able to heap it above the top of the pan where it would melt if it was made without additives. So now we will need to limit ourselves to these!!もっと詳しく