• Nancy and Doug Trips

Paris, Basque Country & Camino

A sister-in-law trip: 2025! Read more
  • Trip start
    May 24, 2025

    Pre trip planning

    May 23 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Over the past year, Doug was planning a bucket list trip to Africa starting June 21 2025. With the trip with Jan to Disney behind her, a pause in family activities, and a bit of trip envy, Nancy reflected on what her bucket list consisted of: one thing: the Camino de Santiago. She had also wanted to do a trip with Rick Steves and, yes, there was a tour of Basque Country with 3 spots left! That would provide the planning and companionship if she did the Camino alone. She wondered whether sister in law Beth might be interested. Beth had not been to Europe and had free time on her hands given a husband awaiting surgery. So, in March we decided to set off on adventures together. We would fly into Paris for three days then join the the Rick Steves tour of Basque Country and finish with a one day visit to the Palace in Madrid. After two weeks, Beth would fly home and Nancy would continue on a solo (but supported) walk of the last 100 km of the Camino de Santiago in Galicia, Spain. Planning and getting the walking legs and feet in shape made the time pass by quickly. Doug helped with Nancy’s ongoing tech disability, updating an aging tablet and helping with eSIMS.Read more

  • Arrival Day Paris

    May 25 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    We had a smooth flight to Paris and a small meal was provided which we split having already enjoyed our twin matches dinner. Drizzly weather so our first 'tour' was of CDG airport. Doug had given us a simplified map of the airport but is a somewhat complex navigation to go from our arrival in Terminal 2 E/F to terminal 3 Roissypôle where Beth’s end of trip is the Novotel which connects directly with the airport, To increase Beth's confidence, we re-did our path in the confusing shuttle that connects Gates M, L and K, the last of which connects to terminal 2G and 2F. Letters for both Gates and Terminals? We met an American trying to find terminal F to catch a flight to Split and we were able to help him!Read more

  • Guided Tour of the Latin Quarter

    May 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We kicked our trip off with a Tour of the Latin quarter through Get Your Guide. Johann confirmed the tour the night prior and there were about 10-12 people, mostly Americans. He was an Australian of Sri Lankan descent who had married a Parisienne and we both thought it was excellent

    Burial of Kings and Queens stormed by Vikings 800 AD
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  • Latin Quarter Tour continued

    May 26 in France ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C
  • Notre-Dame Cathedral

    May 26 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At the close of our tour we walked down the small streets in our neighbourhood where the guide pointed out to look for medieval streets: a gutter running down the centre, buildings that slow out on lower flow such that waste water would be pointed away from buildings. Women walked under the jutted out area, men took the splash on the opposite side! Beth got a baguette sandwich and Nancy wanted to try a shawarma from the same place as in 2023. We debated going on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf Seine cruise but felt the timing would be too tight so we enjoyed our lunch amongst a rambunctious group of French kids who were pretty typical of kids at recess everywhere. A likely local lady sat contentedly in the sun across from us doing Sudoku. We were glad we got timed tickets for Notre Dame which re-opened last year after the fire of 2019. The stone is beautifully white inside and the brass lanterns gleaming.Read more

  • Musee d'Orsay

    May 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We walked about 20 minutes from the hotel to the world’s premier museum of Impressionist painting. The impressionists (approximately 1840 to WW1 which is known as the “Belle Époque”) was the time of departure from classical style and themes to lighter, more relevant painting. At first, the Society rejected such art but it proved very popular and some artists lived long enough to see financial reward while others died early such as Vincent Van Gogh. We followed the Rick Steves audio guide, which was helpful but due to the museum moving pieces there was a search for the key pieces.Read more

  • Eiffel Tower

    May 27 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Following this we decided on Beth’s bucket list Eiffel Tower instead of Montmartre so Nancy moved it to the next day and scratched off the Champs Elysses and Arc de Triomphe. We sprung for the elevator ride to the 2nd level fearing a case of FOMO as Jan had regretted not taking a ride. Nancy and Jan had lost each other in the crowd two years ago and faced with the last run of the hop-on-hop off bus and fatigue were not able to go. As it turned out, we were glad to take in the views but the 45 minute wait to get a ticket and on the elevator seemed long. Following this we walked over to the Trocadéro, took in a long range view of the tower and then feeling some of the tourist end of day “feet are sore and out of steam” we took the first café that looked reasonable called Frog XV which turned out to be a British pub rather than a place specializing in frogs legs as Beth feared. We opted for ribs but noted it really is a wings and beer place, giving it a disappointing 5/10 but we had no fear of food poisoning. We took the metro back, managing a smooth transfer between stops back to our now familiar neighbourhood.

    We have a lot of pictures of and on the Eiffel Tower, built for the 1889 World’s Fair by Gustav Eiffel. It was meant to be a temporary structure but here it still is and looked as stable and grand as it always has.
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  • The Louvre

    May 28 in France ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    After our nice French breakfast at the hotel we were ready for the big morning at the world's most famous art gallery.

    We had 0930h admission tickets to the Louvre and as expected we were not particularly early. The world s largest museum is about has the equivalent to 8 miles of galleries and t would take 13 (24 hour) days to see every piece displayed. This previous palace became a museum after the French Revolution and 8.4 million people visited in 2024 (Olympics year). We followed the Rick Steves Louvre Tour audio guide and found it a useful way of navigating the evolution of prehistory to 1850’s art. Famous Greek originals such as the Venus de Milo evolving into Roman statues and then Middle Ages religious themes and finally the Renaissance. The Renaissance was a time of art, science and humanism. Three dimensional painting of the idealized beauty, Greek mythology, religious scenes, great battles and political events.Read more

  • The Louvre Part 2

    May 28 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We both agreed that we enjoyed the museum using the audio guide but were ready for lunch and a change of pace. So we headed to catch the bus for Montmartre. Finding bus stops at times proves elusive even with Google Maps. We ended up walking through the Tuileries Garden to Place de la Concorde and from there took Metro 12 to lunch.Read more

  • Montmartre

    May 28 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We got off M12 at Pigalle Square and across the street was our lunch destination at Bouillon Pigalle. Opened in 2017, this brasserie recreates the atmosphere of the Parisian restaurants in the 19th century by the Duval butcher group with the intent of serving French food from all regions at reasonable prices. And reasonable price they are. Beth opted for the salmon spinach pie in puff pastry with a side salad and 250 mL of Chardonnay (€20) and Nancy had escargot, Ravioli Dauphine made with Conte cheese and topped with leeks, rose wine, fruit compote and an espresso (€28). The tables are close and we had amicable tourist companions: A couple from Thailand who are American/Thai and a couple from the USA who immigrated there 20 years and were enjoying a 3 week first visit to Europe. The Thai woman coaxed Nancy into the snails which she had described as acceptable but not as tasty as the ones in Vietnam served with hot sauce. We had a leisurely 2 hour lunch and set out to walk to the Place du Tertre, a hang out for portrait artists and tourists. Along the way, we decided to take the funicular (€2.50) and enjoy the view from Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre. Walking back down we came across La Maison Rose and Dalida’s statue. We found our way down to take a picture of the Moulin Rouge before heading back about 8 pm via Bus 74 from Blanche station. Tomorrow we say “Au Revoir” to Paris and travel 784 km by high speed train to Biarritz in the south of France.Read more

  • Gare Montparnasse / arrival Biarritz

    May 29 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We left Hotel Eugenie at 0930 hrs via Bus 74 to Gare Montparnasse which is large with 28 tracks. Found our way to the proper level for our train starting here and terminating in Hendaye, and we are getting off two stops before at Biarritz. I'm surprised that most houses just outside of Paris had clay tile roofs. Largely seemed fields of hay, wheat, and vineyards. Prolonged stop at one station, and it was most of our travel time. Nancy who had her head buried in Penguin updates, panicked momentarily as to whether we needed to get off. We laughed later as posted just our window the station was labeled Dax. Sadly, the interruption was due to an investigation of a death or accident on the tracks. We googled restaurants and noted it was a public holiday called Ascension, and many people were taking two days off. We arrived about two hours late, and then, due to the holiday, there was a prolonged wait for the bus with final arrival at Maison de Lierre at about 8 pm. Found our way to dinner at California Kitchen, where Beth had fish and chips and Nancy fish tacos. We both decided pollock is a rather bland fish, but the dinner overall was good and we sat outside as it was warm with temperatures tomorrow of 30 degrees. Walked part of the waterfront and viewed the last rays of sunset before heading home. There was quite a party atmosphere and this is a hilly town of lots or ups and downs.Read more

  • Biarritz

    May 30 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Checked out at 11 am. and back at 2 pm. after a 5 km walk along the sea promenade, taking in the views. In 1660 King XIV, the Sun King, married a Spanish princess Maria Therese (who at age 21 was reported one ugly with only 3 teeth!) thus ending the wars between France and Spain… in the small town, just a stone throw from here called St Jean de Luc. We are just 22 km from the Spanish border. Napoleon III, in addition to remodeling Paris, designed Biarritz to be a major destination for the 17 and 18th centuries of the upper crust, and since the 1950’s a surfing culture has developed. It is very clean, and although some of the original concrete and pavement is weathered in the charming Eutopean way that makes trips easy, it is a prosperous looking place. We took in the central market and then walked the long promenade with its beachfront views passing through the old fishing port then via a pedestrian bridge out to the rocks with its statue of the Mary. A quick break at the B and B, and we were off by bus and our meet-up with the Rick Steves tour.Read more

  • Arrival Bayonne

    May 30 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We took the 1.40 E bus ride 50 minutes to Bayonne and found Hotel des Basses Pyrenees built into the ramparts of the old wall a 10 minute walk away from our stop at Saint Leon. As we walked into town we could see the ?moat,wall and cathedral which looks impressive. Arrived 2 hours before the meet up with our group. Introductions, an orientation stroll and then a very good dinner with generous helpings: salad and Hake on garlic mashed potatoes. Nancy found the hake similar to halibut, just abit softer and moister…Beth liked it too.Read more

  • A Morning sightseeing in Bayonne

    May 31 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our group was given a tour of Bayonne by a local named Claire. She explained that under Franco the Basque language and customs were forbidden. Our generation was not allowed to learn Basque but the next was. This area came under British rule with stained glass of the crest of Richard the Lionhearted. The Nazis had an appreciation for the architecture of the area and moved in on many buildings thus saving them from destruction during WWII. We had a sampling of pasteurized and unpasteurized sheep cheese of the area; Claire’s husband is a shepherd and sells his milk to the producer of the samples from the market. It was Saturday so the market was in full swing. Next a young woman from the Basque Museum provides insights into the history and customs of the Basque. Her grandparents taught her Basque, her mother French and her father Spanish and she picked up English from school and friends.Read more

  • Bayonne afternoon

    May 31 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We went with A La Bolee creperie recommended by Helen thinking we d split a crepe but it was a one seat one plate policy so we ended up with more food than we wanted. We joined Susan and Allan from the tour who were very pleasant. We located a laundry and Beth got that done while Nancy bought a better rain coat for her walk. We did a wander over the Neve River bridge to Petit Bayonne which was built later and had a quick look at the A Dour River that empties out into the Atlantic. Feeling peckish we split a plate of grilled prawns before tucking in for the night.Read more

  • St Jean Pierre de Port

    June 1 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our bus arrived at 9 am and it took about an hour to get to St. Jean Pierre de Porte the start of the 748 km Camino Frances. Lovely views and town. Popped into the church. Walked to the Citadel where the building is now the local school. Fred, Lillian’s partner took a picture of me with the Camino Frances veteran who had been very reassuring about the walk which she had done solo 5 years prior. Helen got us passports and I got my first stamp!Read more

  • Over the Pyrenees to Roncesville

    June 1 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Helen told us about Operation Comet and how the Basques assisted the British airman from Nazi occupied France to neutral Spain. Also the song of Roland from Charlemagne's time: glamorizing the knights of old. We arrived in the village and of Burguete for a two hour lunch. Beautiful fresh salad and Beth had the shrimp/fish stuffed peppers and I had the roasted duck leg which was very good. One hour into PamplonaRead more

  • Arrival Pamplona

    Jun 1–3 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We descended through mountains of mixed forest and fir trees and gradually came into what appears to be a flatter dryer area and into Pamplona. Our guide told us this is a prosperous and modern city that is a leader in the manufacture of green energy equipment such as windmills and solar panels. Home of the patron Saint Fermin and the annual running of the Bulls when the city’s population expands to 1.5 million. We quickly settled into our modern hotel in the city centre and had a couple of hours rest before meeting up at 7 pm for orientation to the city. The tour would pay for one drink and pintxos and then we were on our own.Read more

  • Pamplona

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    El Camino de Los peregrines. Pilgrims continue to enter through the old city walls at Portal de Francis, and Calle del Carmen leads to the towers of the cathedral. One of the first regions to convert to Christianity in Spain in the 4th century AD. The scarves worn during Running of the Bulls are white, signifying holy and red, the blood of Saint Fermin one of the first baptized who was decapitated by the Romans. In 711 AD, Muslims crossed over from Morocco at the Rock of G. It was not until they crossed the Pyrenees that they were defeated by Charlemagne. He married a Muslim woman to bring peace to the area. The major Christian pilgrimages are to Jerusalem, the Vatican, and Camino de Santiago where the relics of St James are. The latter was the most important pilgrimage as it could be accessed by much of the Christian world. In 1492, Isabella of Castile and Ferdinand of Aragon, the Renaissance power couple, drove the Muslims from the Granada region. After Queen Isabella’s death, Ferdinand marries the Queen of Navarre as his deceased wife advised; in order to bring peace to the area. From 1512 to 1800 Navarre separates from Spain. c was Protestant but was baptized as Roman Catholic and marries to become King Henri 4th of France. Juana “the crazy” becomes Queen of Spain in the 1400s and marries the Hapsburg’s Phillip the 3 rd from the Netherlands. They were the most powerful family in the world. By 1700, there are no more heirs due to inbreeding. The Bourbons then take over.Read more

  • Pamploma santa Maria de Real Cathedral

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    This a unique cathedral. There is a small fee to enter and the Bishop here has attached an interpretive centre unique in that there is a representation on where we are in in history as to the development of spiritual belief. The Holy Mary alter is 1000 years old. Mary was initially depicted as a detached God like unrelateable figure. The mattiarch 20 years later is depicted as touching Jesus and thus becomes more warm, human and relatable.Read more

  • Bullfighting and a Special Lunch

    June 2 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our guide Francisco used to give a talk on the street about bullfighting; until the wife of a MD husband bullfighting enthusiast established a spot to the memorabilia. He was joined by other collectors. She never had any interest in bullfighting until meeting him but she was glad to free up the living room where he had constructed a replica of a bullring and also that she can share the passion of her late husband with others. She opens the collection solely to the public the week of San Fermin….and to the Rick Steves group. As a person who has been raised around bullfighting it has appealed to Francisco. He told us that as Christianity gained in popularity it became unacceptable to have Roman gladiators, lions and criminals tear one another apart in the arena and bullfighting replaced this culture. The bull is poked by two stabs from the piccolo. The bullfighter attracts the bull through the motion of the cape and his objective is to save the bull. The performance is judged and if the result is negative, the bullfighter must kill the bull by one accurate stab through the spinal cord. It is a dangerous occupation that pays about €60,000 per fight. She served us tapas and drinks as well. Then we were treated to lunch at one of the private Basque Men’s Clubs where the men in the group
    serve the ladies! You gotta love this matriarchal society!
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  • Camino walk

    June 3 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We left Pamplona got our day on part of the Camino. First stop: El Alto del Perdon or Point of Forgiveness. This is a well photographed pilgrim viewpoint and the site of a Memorial to 92 Franco opposers who were killed. It is 770 meter above sea level. Pointe de Reina is 10 km away along the path of the wind and way of the stars. We were dropped off along the Way and walked through the village of OBano to our destination on the other side of the 12th century bridge in Pointe de la Reina. We were very fortunate that the rain held off until we were in the bus to a winery lunch in the country side. After we were done and had just closed the doors to the bus it poured all the way to our next stop! You could not have timed things better!Read more