• Nancy and Doug Trips
  • Nancy and Doug Trips

Paris, Basque Country & Camino

A sister-in-law trip: 2025! Read more
  • Trip start
    May 24, 2025

    Pre trip planning

    May 23, 2025 in Canada ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Over the past year, Doug had been planning a bucket list trip to Africa starting June 21 2025. With the trip with Jan to Disney behind her, a pause in family activities, and a bit of trip envy, Nancy reflected on what her bucket list consisted of: one thing: the Camino de Santiago. She had also wanted to do a trip with the well known Rick Steves Tours and, yes, there was a tour of Basque Country with 3 spots left! That would provide the planning and companionship if she did the Camino alone. She wondered whether sister in law Beth might be interested. Beth had not been to Europe and had free time on her hands given brother in law John was awaiting surgery. So, in March Beth and I decided to set off on an adventure together. We would fly into Paris for three days, then join the the Rick Steves tour of Basque Country and finish with a one day visit to the Palace in Madrid. After two weeks, Beth would fly home and Nancy would continue on a solo (but supported) walk of the last 100 km of the Camino de Santiago in Galicia, Spain. Planning and getting the walking legs and feet in shape made the time pass by quickly. Doug helped with Nancy’s ongoing tech disability, updating an aging tablet and helping with eSIMS.Read more

  • Arrival Day Paris

    May 25, 2025 in Canada ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    We had a smooth flight to Paris and a small meal was provided was split given we ate "twin" dinners at our connection in Calgary. Drizzly weather so our first 'tour' was of CDG airport. Doug had given us a simplified map of the airport but it is a somewhat complex navigation to go from our arrival in Terminal 2 E/F to terminal 3 Roissypôle where Beth’s end of trip accommodation is the Novotel which connects directly with the airport, To increase Beth's confidence, we re-did our path in the confusing shuttle that connects Gates M, L and K, the last of which connects to terminal 2G and 2F. Letters for both Gates and Terminals? What can we say other than such logic is "Tres Francaise"! We met an American who asked if we were lost; turns out he was trying to find terminal F to catch a flight to Split and we were able to help him since we were confident on our second round. This was to be a repeating theme in our travels...we were never really lost, just misplaced for a short time.Read more

  • Notre-Dame Cathedral

    May 26, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    At the close of our tour we walked down the small streets in our neighborhood where the guide pointed out medieval streets: a gutter runs down the center of the road, the lower floors jetty such that waste water would be pointed away from buildings. Women walked under the jettied out area. Beth got a baguette sandwich and Nancy wanted to try a shawarma from the same place she had lunch in 2023. We debated going on the Vedettes du Pont Neuf Seine cruise but felt the timing would be too tight so we enjoyed our lunch amongst a rambunctious group of French kids who were pretty typical of kids at recess everywhere. A likely local lady sat contentedly in the sun across from us doing Sudoku. We were glad we got timed tickets for Notre Dame which re-opened last year after the fire of 2019. The stone is beautifully white inside and the brass lanterns gleaming.Read more

  • Sainte-Chapelle

    May 26, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    The end of a busy day: a quick pizza dinner and tickets to a (not rock) concert in the beautiful Sainte-Chapelle as the sun was setting. Beth, suffering from jet lag, found it difficult to stay awake and could not see the violinist so a less the ideal experience for her.Read more

  • Musee d'Orsay and Eiffel Tower

    May 27, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    We walked about 20 minutes from the hotel to the world’s premier museum of Impressionist painting. The impressionists (approximately 1840 to WW1 which is known as the “Belle Époque”) was the time of departure from classical style and themes to lighter, more relevant painting. At first, the Society (of artists) rejected this style but it proved very popular and some artists lived long enough to see financial reward while others died early such as Vincent Van Gogh. We followed the Rick Steves audio guide, which was helpful but due to the museum moving pieces there was a search for the key pieces.

    After some tea, we decided on Beth’s bucket list Eiffel Tower instead of Montmartre so Nancy moved the latter to the next day and scratched off the Champs Elysses and Arc de Triomphe. We sprung for the elevator ride to the 2nd level fearing a case of FOMO as Jan had regretted not taking the ride. Nancy and Jan had lost each other in the crowd two years ago and faced with the last run of the hop-on-hop off bus and fatigue ran out of time and energy to go to the top. As it turned out, we were glad to take in the views but the 45 minute wait to get a ticket and on the elevator seemed long.
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  • Around the Eiffel Tower

    May 27, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    After our views from the top of the tower, we walked over to the Trocadéro, took in a long range view and then, feeling some of the tourist end of day “feet are sore and out of steam,” we took the first café that looked reasonable called Frog XV. It turned out to be a British pub rather than a place specializing in frogs legs as Beth feared. We opted for one of Beth's favourites (ribs) but noted it really is a wings and beer place, giving it a disappointing 5/10. On the up side, we had no fear of food poisoning. We took the metro back, managing a smooth transfer between stops back to our now familiar neighborhood.

    We have a lot of pictures of the Eiffel Tower, built for the 1889 World’s Fair by Gustav Eiffel. It was meant to be a temporary structure but here it still is and it deserves to be the Grand Icon of Paris.
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  • The Louvre

    May 28, 2025 in France ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    After our nice French breakfast at the hotel we were ready for a big morning at the world's most famous art gallery.

    We had 0930h admission tickets to the Louvre and as expected we were not particularly early. The world s largest museum has 8 miles of galleries and it would take 13 (24 hour) days to see every piece displayed. This previous palace became a museum after the French Revolution and 8.4 million people visited in 2024 (Olympics year). We followed the Rick Steves Louvre Tour audio guide and found it a useful way of navigating the evolution of prehistory to 1850’s art. Famous Greek originals such as the Venus de Milo evolving into Roman statues and then Middle Ages religious themes and finally the Renaissance. The Renaissance was a time of art, science and humanism. Three dimensional painting of the idealized beauty, Greek mythology, religious scenes, great battles and political events.Read more

  • The Louvre Part 2

    May 28, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    We both agreed that we enjoyed the museum using the audio guide but were ready for lunch and a change of pace. So we headed to catch the bus for Montmartre. Finding bus stops at times proves elusive even with Google Maps. We ended up walking through the Tuileries Garden to Place de la Concorde and from there took Metro Line 12 to lunch.Read more

  • Montmartre

    May 28, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We got off M12 at Pigalle Square and across the street was our lunch destination at Bouillon Pigalle. Opened in 2017, this brasserie recreates the atmosphere of the Parisian restaurants in the 19th century by the Duval butcher group with the intent of serving French food from all regions at reasonable prices. And reasonable price they are. Beth opted for the salmon spinach pie in puff pastry with a side salad and 250 mL of Chardonnay (€20) and Nancy had escargot, Ravioli Dauphine made with Conte cheese and topped with leeks, rose wine, fruit compote and an espresso (€28). The tables are close and we had amicable tourist companions: A couple from Thailand who are American/Thai and a couple from the USA who immigrated there 20 years and were enjoying a 3 week first visit to Europe. The Thai woman coaxed Nancy into the snails which she had described as acceptable but not as tasty as the ones in Vietnam served with hot sauce. We had a leisurely 2 hour lunch and set out to walk to the Place du Tertre, a hang out for portrait artists and tourists. Along the way, we decided to take the funicular (€2.50) and enjoy the view from Basilique du Sacré-Cœur de Montmartre. Walking back down we came across La Maison Rose and Dalida’s statue. We found our way down to take a picture of the Moulin Rouge before heading back about 8 pm via Bus 74 from Blanche station. Tomorrow we say “Au Revoir” to Paris and travel 784 km by high speed train to Biarritz in the south of France.Read more

  • Gare Montparnasse / arrival Biarritz

    May 29, 2025 in France ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    We left Hotel Eugenie at 0930 hrs via Bus 74 to Gare Montparnasse which is large with 28 tracks. Found our way to the proper level for our train starting here and terminating in Hendaye, and we are getting off two stops before at Biarritz. It is surprising that most houses just outside of Paris had clay tile roofs. The landscape along the over 700 km was of fields of hay, wheat, and vineyards. We had a prolonged stop at one station, and by the clock we should have almost arrived at our destination. Nancy who had her head buried in Penguin updates, panicked momentarily as to whether we needed to get off. We laughed later as posted just our window the station was labeled Dax. Sadly, the interruption was due to an investigation of a death or accident on the tracks. We googled restaurants and noted it was a public holiday called Ascension, and many people were taking two days off. We arrived about two hours late, and then, due to the holiday, there was a prolonged wait with many other people for the bus. We finally arrived at Maison de Lierre at 8 pm. We found our way to dinner at California Kitchen, where Beth had fish and chips and Nancy fish tacos. We both decided pollock is a rather bland fish, but the dinner overall was good and we sat outside as it was warm with temperatures tomorrow of 30 degrees. Beth commented it felt more like she was on a holiday now. Walked part of the waterfront and viewed the last rays of sunset before heading home. There was quite a party atmosphere on the local streets and this is a hilly resort town with its roots of development in the era of Napoleon III and Empress Eugenie (1850s).Read more

  • Biarritz

    May 30, 2025 in France ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Checked out at 11 am. and back at 2 pm. after a 5 km walk along the sea promenade, taking in the views. In 1660 King XIV, the Sun King, married a Spanish princess Maria Therese (who at age 21 was reputed to be quite ugly with only 3 teeth due to her love of sweets and lack of modern dentistry). With their union, the wars between France and Spain came to an end. They were married in a nearby small town called St Jean de Luc. We are just 22 km from the Spanish border. Napoleon III, in addition to remodeling Paris, designed Biarritz to be a major destination for 18th century upper crust society and since the 1950’s a surfing culture has developed. It is very clean, and although some of the original concrete and pavement is weathered in a charming European way that make falls easy. Overall, it is a prosperous looking place. We took in the central market and then walked the long promenade with its beachfront views passing through the old fishing port and then via a pedestrian bridge out to the rocks with its statue of Mary. A quick rest at the B and B and we were off by bus and our meet-up with for the one week Rick Steves group tour of The Basque Country.Read more

  • Arrival Bayonne

    May 30, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    The 1.4 Euro bus ride took 50 minutes to Bayonne and we found Hotel des Basses Pyrenees built into the ramparts of the old wall a 10 minute walk away from our stop at Saint Leon. As we walked into town we could see a ?moat, wall and cathedral that looked impressive. We arrived 2 hours before the meet up with our group. Introductions, an orientation stroll and then a very good dinner with generous helpings: salad and Hake on garlic mashed potatoes. Nancy found the hake similar to halibut, just abit softer and moister…Beth liked it too.Read more

  • A morning tour of Bayonne

    May 31, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Our group was given a tour of Bayonne by a local named Claire. She explained that under Franco the Basque language and customs were forbidden. The boomer generation was not allowed to learn Basque but the next was. This area came under British rule via inheritance in 1152, marked by the stained glass of the crest of Richard the Lionhearted (King Richard 1 of England 1189). The Nazis had an appreciation for Bayonne architecture and occupied many buildings thus saving them from destruction during WWII. We had a sampling of pasteurized and unpasteurized sheep cheese. Claire’s husband is a shepherd and sells his milk to the producer of the samples from the market. It was Saturday so the market was in full swing. Our next stop was the Basque Museum where a young woman provided insights into the history and customs of the Basque. Her grandparents taught her Basque, her mother French and her father Spanish and she picked up English from school and friends.Read more

  • Bayonne afternoon

    May 31, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    We went to A La Bolee creperie recommended by Helen thinking we d split a crepe but it was a one seat one plate policy so we ended up with more food than we wanted. We joined Susan and Allan from the tour who were very pleasant. We located a laundry and Beth got that done while Nancy bought a better rain coat for her upcoming Camino walk. We did a wander over the Neve River bridge to Petit Bayonne which was built later and had a quick look at the A Dour River that empties out into the Atlantic. Feeling peckish we split a plate of grilled prawns before tucking in for the night.Read more

  • St Jean Pierre de Port

    June 1, 2025 in France ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Our bus arrived at 9 am and it took about an hour to get to St. Jean Pierre de Porte which marks the start of the 748 km Camino Frances. Lovely views and town. Popped into the church. Walked to the Citadel where the building is now the local school. Fred, Lillian’s partner took a picture of me with the Camino Frances veteran who had been very reassuring about the walk which she had done solo 5 years prior. Helen got us passports and we got our first stamps: there would be a prize for the person collecting the most stamps during our couple of days following the Camino.Read more

  • Over the Pyrenees to Roncesvalles

    June 1, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    Our bus travelled through the Roncevaux Pass from Saint Pierre-du-Port to Roncesvalles. Helen told us about Operation Comet and how the Basques assisted the British airman escape Nazi occupied France to neutral Spain. Also the song of Roland from Charlemagne's time: glamorizing the knights of old. The first part of the Camino Frances is a tough hike over the Pyrenees and from the bus we could see the steepness of the mountains. Wewere fortunate to have a beautiful weather day to walk along the Camino (on a beautiful weather and arrived in the village Burguete for a two hour lunch. Like the night before, the salad was wonderfully fresh and Beth had the shrimp and fish stuffed peppers and Nancy had the roasted duck leg which was very good. It was a one hour drive to our destination: Pamplona.Read more

  • Arrival Pamplona

    Jun 1–3, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    We descended through mountains of mixed forest and fir trees and gradually came into what appears to be a flatter dryer area and into Pamplona. Our guide told us this is a prosperous and modern city that is a leader in the manufacture of green energy equipment such as windmills and solar panels. Home of the patron Saint Fermin and the annual running of the Bulls when the city’s population expands to 1.5 million. We quickly settled into our modern hotel in the city centre and had a couple of hours rest before meeting up at 7 pm for orientation to the city. The tour would pay for one drink and pintxos and then we were on our own.

    NB about Running of the Bills and Pilgrims: This was one of the first regions to convert to Christianity in Spain in the 4th century AD. The scarves worn during Running of the Bulls are white, signifying holy and red, the blood of Saint Fermin. He was one of the first baptized and was decapitated by the Romans. In 711 AD, Muslims crossed over from Morocco at the Rock of Gibraltar. It was not until they crossed the Pyrenees that they were defeated by Charlemagne who then married a Muslim woman to bring peace to the area. The major Christian pilgrimages are to Jerusalem, the Vatican, and Santiago de Compostela in Northern Spain where the relics of St James are. The latter was the most important pilgrimage as it could be accessed by much of the Christian world. In Pamplona, Pilgrims continue to enter through the old city walls at Portal de Francis and Calle del Carmen leads to the towers of the Cathedral.
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  • The Santa Maria de Real Cathedral

    June 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    The next day, we met our local tour guide Francisco who was was both interesting and entertaining. The cathedral is quite unique. There is a small fee to enter and the Bishop here has attached an interpretive center including a interpretation of where we are in 2025 in our spiritual belief. The Holy Mary alter is 1000 years old. Mary was initially depicted as a detached God like unrelatable figure. The matriarch 20 years later is depicted as touching Jesus and thus became more warm, human and relatable.Read more

  • Bullfighting and a Special Lunch

    June 2, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Our guide Francisco used to give a talk on the street about bullfighting; until the wife of a bullfighting enthusiast allowed him to bring the Rick Steves tour group in. He collected bullfighting memorabilia and was joined by other collectors. She never had any interest in bullfighting until meeting him but she was glad to free up the living room where he had constructed a replica of a bullring by establishing this collection and enjoys sharing the passion of her late husband with others. She opens the collection solely to the public the week of San Fermin. As a person who has been raised around bullfighting the sport has appealed to Francisco. He told us that as Christianity gained in popularity it became unacceptable to have Roman gladiators, lions and criminals tear one another apart in the arena and bullfighting replaced this culture. The bull is poked by two stabs from the piccolo. The bullfighter attracts the bull through the motion of the cape and his objective is to save the bull. The performance is judged and if the result is negative, the bullfighter must kill the bull by one accurate stab through the spinal cord. It is a dangerous occupation that pays about €60,000 per fight. This generous lady served us tapas and drinks as well. Then we were treated to lunch at one of the private Basque Men’s Clubs where the men in the group
    serve the ladies! You gotta love this matriarchal society!
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  • On the Camino

    June 3, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We left Pamplona to do a whole day on the Camino. First stop: El Alto del Perdon or Point of Forgiveness. This is a well photographed pilgrim viewpoint and the site of a Memorial to 92 Franco opposers who were killed. It is 770 meter above sea level. Pointe de Reina is 10 km away along the path of the wind and way of the stars. We were dropped off along the Way and walked through the village of Obanos to our destination on the other side of the 12th century bridge in the village of Pointe de la Reina. We were very fortunate that the rain held off until we were in the bus and on our way to a winery lunch in the country side. After we were done and had just closed the doors to the bus it poured all the way to our next stop! You could not have timed things better!Read more

  • Arrival San Sebastian/Donastia

    June 3, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Helen explained we are going through the Sierra Alto mountains where we saw again more Etxcha, the traditional Basque home design. In families, the 4th Basque son would be sent to America, often to settle near Salt Lake City and work as a shepherd. In Boise, Idaho, there is an annual Basque festival. San Sebastian is a foodie destination and home to the Basque cheese cake. We entered the next province listening to the history of the transition of power between Franco and Juan Carlos, who then declared Spain a democratic republic. We would see a picture of Juan Carlos's family when we got to Madrid's Royal Palace.Read more

  • Day in San Sebastian

    Jun 4–6, 2025 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Modeled after Biarritz during the Belle Epoch era, the lamp posts are 1920s Art Deco. Queen Maria Christina took waters here for her skin and then helped develop it into a tourist, trade, and industrial centre, and it now has a population of 185,000. A modernistic convention centre now hosts the annual film festival that was established in 1953. The castle was built in the 11th century and atop is a statue of Jesus similar to Rio. We climbed Mount Urguel to the top. Once a fishing port, the area below is now a tourist hub where we enjoyed scallops and calamari frito overlooking the harbour. We then took in the aquarium, which was very good. The Basilica de Santa Maria was not open.Read more