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Camino Spring 2024

April - May 2024
A 24-day adventure by Paul & Lydia Read more
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  • 12.3kmiles
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  • Camino Spring 2024
    5111
    Day 6

    Somewhere we crossed a border…

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 77 °F

    Somewhere in the long journey over the Pyrenees, we crossed into Spain. It was so lovely lovely to see the horses with their bells on many hillsides, and walk into Roncesvalles.

    Our accommodation for the evening is housed in a renovated monastery. By the time we got there it was hot! 🥵

    We had sunscreened our tender fish belly skin but it did not escape the reddening by radiation.

    Gladly for us the evening air cooled and sent breezes through the open windows. And the stone of the building insulated beautifully. The whole place was clean and efficient and easily housed a very large group of people. I enjoyed the communal dinner with other pilgrims. Who knew that I would have a chance to practice Japanese with one pilgrim traveling alone and looking a bit bewildered?

    Over and over I felt so grateful for the amazing weather, the ancient mountains with sweeping sky, and the thousand year old trail to guide us. And for Paul’s dedication to planning and getting on this Camino.    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    1111431
    Day 7

    Welcome back to the city = Pamplona

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    What makes the Camino special are the people we meet. Today we met Teresa from South Carolina. Teresa is a grandmother who felt called to travel the Camino. She arrived very late to the end of the first long long stage. She did not arrive until after 9 p.m., no more dinner was left. She did not give up other pilgrims shared with her, the next day sore and tired. She took her time one step at a time. It gave me pause to remember that people are good and that with patience and grace you can complete anything. Today we arrived in Pamplona. We had a wonderful Basque meal and played with the animals. Tomorrow we take a train for 4.5 hours to Astorga.Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    1212
    Day 7–8

    More Pamplona

    April 15 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 59 °F

    Seriously this city is so amazing. The old old history really makes USA seem so young.

    And we enjoyed walking around, visiting the central cathedral and having a chance encounter with some early bull training.

    Thank goodness we both have Hoka shoes- apparently the shoe to have for the Camino 😜    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    1
    11
    Day 8

    Morning in Pamplona

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 46 °F

    The capsule hostel was a cool experience. Really impressed with how efficiently it uses the space. Everything is so clean - remove your shoes at the front door and hang your bag downstairs separate from the dormitory area. there is a locker at the end of the bed to keep your valuables safe.

    If you’re petite, like me, you can sit up easily, or rest with your feet on the ceiling.

    If you’re tall like Paul, you can’t sit up fully, so you build your abdominals and learn to curl your spine.

    Bonus - no alarm needed! Whoever of the 20 guests wakes up first in the morning inevitably makes the noise of a zipper, a shade going up, or slipping off the ladder and scraping her shin with a few choice expletives.

    Ok, fine, that was me. Awake at 4am. 🕓

    We had found a grocery store in town and Hard boiled some eggs the night before. Along with local sheep cheese, hearty bread and apples, we are well fed!

    We loaded our bags and headed into the waking city.

    Another beautiful sunrise, this time over the 16th century citadel. Not walking out of Pamplona today - instead taking the early afternoon train to Astorga. From there we will walk the last 256 kilometers of the Camino into Santiago. Glad to have a bit of quieter morning of wandering the amazing buildings and gardens of Pamplona. El Jardin de Tacodero has chickens, 🐓 geese 🪿, 🦃 turkeys, Guinea fowl and 🦚 peacocks.

    It even has a herd of deer enclosed out of reach, much to the bitter disappointment of the local dogs 🐕

    After the last 3 days of very long walking, it’s a relief on my muscles. My bag must weight like 50 pounds.

    As I said to our hostelero, “tengo 10 más años este tarde que tenía en la mañana.”    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    Day 8

    Unexpected

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 52 °F

    ‼️ warning - graphic description‼️

    As we were walking through Pamplona making our way towards the train station, we decided to take one more tour through the old town to marvel at the tall citadel walls. They must be 30 -40 feet high.

    We walked around the top, commenting what a big drop it would be into the rough stone or road below.

    As we turned the corner, we saw a woman stop her bike and run to a man lying on the ground. She started doing CPR while another man was on the phone calling the police.

    Paul dropped his bags and ran over to help. The man on the ground was lifeless, and I heard a woman at the top saying “se tiré” which could mean “he threw himself” (?)

    Paul jumped into CPR, relieving the woman. He checked for pulse in multiple places, keeping the rhythm.

    There was a lot of blood 🩸 flowing down the street from under the man’s head.

    The police arrived quickly, and they pulled out an AED. A non-uniformed officer asked if we had witnessed anything. “No lo vimos pero mi Esposo lo ayudó”
    “We didn’t see it but my husband helped.”

    The officer said “if you didn’t see it, then please leave.”

    By then a team of three officers were setting up a privacy screen and shaking their heads. We walked away, Paul shaking with the adrenaline.

    A woman walked up and asked what happened. When I told her, she said “nobody survives that fall.”

    I’m amazed at how quickly Paul’s instincts kicked in, ready to try to save a life, even when the signs pointed to the inevitable. And why I feel so safe traveling with him.

    On the way to the train station a few blocks later, we saw an older man lying on the ground writhing in pain, many people rushing over to help. We were grateful to walk away from that situation knowing others were there to help.

    So we sit in the train station waiting for the train destined for Astorga, wondering what lesson the Camino is sharing today. What is activated in this situation that can shed light on patterns in the world? In ourselves? Is this a warning? The reminder of the sobering reality of life’s fragility?    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    213
    Day 8–9

    Train into Astorga

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    We got ourselves to the train station early. We had walked around with our backpacks and day bags, and I”m feeling that extra weight in my hips and knees. We both needed a day of rest and recovery.

    We just had that strong feeling that it was time to get out of the city and return to the Camino in nature.

    I fell asleep on the train immediately, lulled by the rocking and the fields of yellow something going by. We passed many industrial areas, and a wind turbine farm.

    My thoughts and dreams turned to my home, my children and how they are (not?) getting along. To my suburban cats who have no predators but the risks of old age (Sophie) and extra flappy flaps (Maeven). To my fortunate and rich life with good friends, good health insurance and a wonderful family.

    We passed through the towns along the Camino that take weeks for pilgrims on foot. Logroño, Burgos, Leon. Looking across the flat, dry Meseta, I feel lucky again that we are foregoing this Herculean marathon of walking to fast forward instead to Astorga, where we start the climb back into mountains and eventually into Galicia.

    One of the places we are looking forward to is the Iron cross, where pilgrims ascend a very long and steep mountain, then symbolically set down a stone to represent laying down a burden. We both brought stones from home. And what those stones represent may change daily as we continue our Camino.

    I am so grateful that I got to study Spanish at such an intense level. I don’t use it much in my daily life at home, but being emerged in it again opens up an inner cache of vocabulary, grammar (remember pluscuamperfecto de subjuntivo?), and dichos I didn’t know that I knew.

    Now that we are a week in, with two weeks to go, it’s easier to shift into the rhythm of the day. wake up early (what? Lydia wake up early??) and have whatever breakfast we have set aside from the market before. Hopefully the laundry is dry. Our goal is set out in time to walk with the sunrise.

    What I enjoy the most, tho, is monotasking. Being present. Talking with Paul about details of where we are and where we are going, or deeper topics of life, process and introspection. Pausing to listen to the sound of the birds, or the babbling brook, or to take a breather while other pilgrims with their full travel packs pass us.

    Astorga turns out to be a beautiful little town with amazing palace and cathedral, nestled into the daily hustle of the community. I’m in awe and humbled.

    Paul found us a lovely hotel that costs the same as 2 beds In a hostel. Clean, beautiful, with a little balcony looking over the square, where people are having dinner and connecting well into the evening. Watch the video with sound on.

    The bathroom even has dual seating for the closest of couples. JK

    Tomorrow we start our walk before the sunrise, and will see these buildings in their predawn glory. We have many hilly days ahead of us. And I’m grateful for it!    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    131
    Day 8

    Country roads

    April 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 68 °F

    After a mentally challenging day yesterday amd a long train ride. We ended up in Astorga and stayed in a wonderful place over looking the town square listening to the church bells and watching the two stroll by.

    By 630am we were off and back on the road. Felt good to shake off the tragedy of the past day and see the dawn of a new day. Along the trail we saw many pilgrims struggling physically and those just starting their journey. Each person has a story..... Today we are in Foncebadon a small village at the top of ridge in a converted convent.    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    2
    Day 10

    What does one give away on the Camino

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 37 °F

    After a dinner and rich conversation with friends from Singapore, we were up both dawn to hike to Cruz de Ferro before first light. We each had a rock of two to symbolize leaving something behind. I selected the false prioritization of work. After the cross we walked along the ridge line amongst snow covered peaks in the distance and pine trees before us. Slowly and painfully at time we descended more than 4,000 feet. Enjoying coffee at a ridge top and walking through small villages. After more than 16 miles we arrived in Ponferrada.Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    13131
    Day 10

    Evening in Ponferrada

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    After our epic walking day through all kinds of country, towns, city, with our sore knees and blisters, we could not pass up touring the 16th century Templar Castle.

    It was so fascinating (and painful) to walk up and down the towers, ramparts and grounds to wonder at what a military installation it was before gunpowder changed warfare.

    Watch as Paul channels his inner Ken Burns to introduce to you this beautiful space.

    Also, he found us the coolest private room in an albergue. So spacious and a place to cook!    Read more

  • Camino Spring 2024
    112111
    Day 10

    Out of Foncebadon and into the mountains

    April 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    The night in the renovated convent was absolutely lovely. I feel so blessed for this beautiful weather across beautiful country.

    Just 2 km from our convent is the “Cruz de fierro”- the iron cross. This is a place where pilgrims place a stone or other symbolic item as a way to lay down their burden. It may be a memorial for a loved one, a personal quest, or a release.

    When we started planning for the Camino, we knew we wanted to come here. We both picked out stones from home and carried them in our pockets. We left the Albergue at 6:15 with the full sky of stars ⭐️ greeting us. We pass the field of sleeping cows and a pond of frogs that had been so noisy the night before. We made it to the cross as the sun rose.

    I brought 2 stones. A small rose quartz serves as a symbol of letting go of my heart ever being smaller than it truly is. To let go of hiding myself or my deeper emotions, to open to the beautiful extremes of life. We great joy comes great sorrow, with deep love comes deep loss. My emotions are my superpowers and I’m willing to stand up for them.
    A small oval stone I had painted in gold 🌀 spirals. It symbolized to me opening up to was beyond my imagination. What is beyond perception and doubt to what is truly felt and known in the spirit.
    I was truly touched by the hundreds of other burdens laid down - stones, shoes, rosaries 📿, jewelry, toys, flags….

    As we walked onward to the sun touching the tops of the mountains, we talked about what the experience meant to us and what we welcome with that release. It’s the kind of conversation I’m so glad to have with my life partner!

    At the top of one of the highest passes, there was a tiny coffee cart with fresh hard boiled eggs, espresso and other things. By mostly a view and a fire! 🔥

    We are starting to feel the challenge of the walk more now. At over 51,000 steps (18. 1 miles) today, I go to bed with a very sore knee. And not the one that has been injured the last 8 months! The stress from walking down very rough terrain is working that joint line. Luckily there was a farmacia at our ending point where the pharmacist looked at my knee and gave me a knee brace and some CBD/Arnica cream.

    And poor paul has an impressive blister on his toe .

    We are both trying to keep ahead with the sunscreen, tho it’s ☀️ still getting us with sweaty clothes and heat rash.

    Regardless, we remain very positive and grateful for the amazing accommodations available, for the community of pilgrims, for the drinkable tap water, for a soft bed and a hot shower. And for our continued support of each other.    Read more

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