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Chateaux, Rivers and Wine
  • Kmcg52

Chateaux, Rivers and Wine

A seven-day Viking River Cruise to the Bordeaux region with our friends Pat and Mike. Three days in Paris capped a wonderful trip. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 22, 2018
    Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Old warehouse entranceMarket Square in Chartrons DistrictSt. Louis-des-ChartronsDecorative door knocker

    Bordeaux, France

    September 22, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 81 °F

    We have arrived in beautiful Bordeaux! We look forward to exploring the region with our traveling companions, Pat and Mike, on a Viking River Cruise. Our ship, the Forseti, is docked on the banks of the Garonne River across from the beautiful Bordeaux waterfront with its neoclassical buildings. It's Saturday so there are lots of people strolling, biking and scootering along the riverbank. There's also an Irish Pub right on the waterfront! After a light lunch on board we toured the Chartrons District. This area was once outside the walls of Bordeaux and was the center of the wine trade. Wine from all over the region arrived here, was stored in barrels in immense warehouses and then shipped all over Europe. The spires of the St Louis-des-Chartrons church tower above this neighborhood of narrow cobblestone streets. Nearby is the Place du Marché des Chartrons. The 1869 market has been renovated in glass, iron and stone. This area seems to be full of boutiques, antique shops and cafes. After a delicious dinner on board we turned in early. Jet lag caught up with us. The name of this cruise is Chateaux, Rivers and Wine. Can't wait to explore the area and especially sample the wine.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Old map of Bordeaux, called port of the moon
    Bastide town of CadillacSea gate of CadillacClock tower gate in CadillacEpernon's ChateauSt-Blaise Church in Cadillac

    Cadillac, France

    September 23, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    Bordeaux has a new tram system which we used to arrive at the Aquitaine Museum. This entire region of southwest France once belonged to Eleanor of Aquitaine in the 12th century. After she married the king of England, Henry the II, it became part of England for 300 years. We learned that Bordeaux was once part of the slave trade triangle. Goods from here were shipped to Africa in exchange for slaves. The goods the slaves produced in America were then shipped back to Europe. There is a lot of history in this museum and not enough time to see it all.

    After lunch we were scheduled to cruise upstream to the town of Cadillac. Unfortunately, the water was too low and we had to travel by motor coach. Cadillac is a fortified town called a bastide in old French. It was founded in 1280 by Jean de Grailly, representing the King of England. In the middle of the town is a chateau built in the 17th century by the first duke of Epernon for his wife. In later centuries it became a women's prison. The Cadillac we know was born near here and traveled to Canada in 1683. He adopted his title from the town of Cadillac in France. He fought the Iroquois and served as commander of the frontier post of Mackinac in Michigan. King Louis XIV gave him permission to set up a Great Lakes fur-trading post in Detroit. He governed Detroit and then the Louisiana Colony. Unhappy in Louisiana he returned to southern France where he died. A U.S. city, mountain and car company are all named after him.    Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Chateau de Myrat
    The Conte de PontacNoble rotSemillon grapesAh, sampling the fruit of the vine.

    Château de Myrat, Barsac, France

    September 23, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 75 °F

    We really enjoyed our visit to Château de Myrat in the Sauternes wine region. The Count of Pontac is very proud of his vineyard and renowned wines. He explained in French the special process of producing these sweet dessert wines while our guide translated. There are only five villages in the area that can claim the Sauternes label. This small region 20 miles south of Bordeaux has the perfect micro climate that encourages the growth of a fungus called Botrytis Cinerea, or noble rot. The semillon grape is very susceptible to it and is the primary grape grown here. The fungus increases the sugar level, resulting in shriveled, raisin-like clusters. The shriveled grapes are hand picked, often one at a time. It is a labor intensive process that takes several months. We learned that a typical grape vine yields about a bottle of wine, while an average botrytis-infected vine yields about a glass. It is very sweet, like a nectar, and usually paired with fruit-based desserts. Ron and I enjoyed sampling three different vintages.

    After a delicious dinner of Thai soup, Cuisse de Canard Confite (duck leg) and Bordeaux red wine cake, we enjoyed a wine tasting and explanation on how to taste and evaluate wine based on its color, smell, and taste. C'est bon!    Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Bordeaux from across the Garonne
    Girondins MemorialNotre Dame ChurchChapel inside Notre DameInterior of Notre Dame ChurchCity Center BordeauxMacarons DemonstrationMacarons. Yum.Ron enjoying the sunshine on balconyGood friends and traveling companions

    Tour of Bordeaux

    September 24, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 61 °F

    This morning we visited Bordeaux by motor coach and on foot. The city is located on the left bank on a bend of the Garonne River and was known as the Port of the Moon. It is also called the Sleeping Beauty. According to our local guides the Beauty has awakened due to a massive revitalization of the waterfront during the last 20 years. The warehouses that lined the docks have been torn down revealing the lovely 18th century buildings of the city center. It was named a UNESCO world heritage site in 2007. We saw the Grand Theater, the stone bridge commissioned by Napoleon, Notre Dame church and the memorial monument to the Girondins, who supported a constitutional monarchy during the French Revolution but lost their heads during the Reign of Terror. We also strolled down the Rue St.Catherine, said to be the longest pedestrian shopping street in Europe. It follows the path of an old Roman road.

    The ship cast off for Libourne after lunch so we spent the afternoon on board enjoying the sunshine. The chef also demonstrated how to make macarons. Délicieux!. Speaking of delicious we had one of our best meals that evening: escargots, Châteaubriand and crêpes suzettes! With Bordeaux wines of course. Our dinner companions were a lovely couple from England, Bob and Martine (who is French). A pianist and vocalist have provided our entertainment each evening. Tonight she sang music from operas. Her voice was amazing. A nice way to end the day.    Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Turreted medieval house
    Last remaining gate to the townLibourne town squareMarket day in LibourneFish marketTown Hall in LibourneMuseum of Fine ArtsRude gargoyle1822 stone bridge across the Dordogne

    Libourne

    September 25, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 54 °F

    This morning we took a walking tour of Libourne with a local guide. Libourne is situated on the confluence of the Dordogne and Isle Rivers. In the Middle Ages regional wines were exported to England and the Netherlands from here. Libourne is a typical 13th century medieval town. Like most medieval towns it has a main square surrounded by arcades. Today the arcades are full of cafes and restaurants. Tuesday is market day so we were able to stroll through the market in Place Abel Surchamp as well as an indoor market. The Town Hall, also on the Square, was constructed in the 15th century but remodeled in the19th to make it look more medieval! It has a grand staircase with little gargoyles who are a bit naughty. There is a Museum of Fine Arts on the top floor of the town hall with classical and modern paintings. We enjoyed our stroll through Libourne.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Statue of Saint-Emilion
    Saint Joan of ArcPatty in the cloisterPrices are a bit steep!Saint-Emilion Monolithic ChurchRoof tops of Saint-Emilion

    Saint-Emilion

    September 25, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 57 °F

    Saint-Emilion. We've been looking forward to visiting this town and its well-regarded wines. In contrast to Libourne with its center square and streets on a grid, Saint-Emilion is located on a hill with steep and narrow streets. Even with a map it was confusing. Its history goes back to prehistoric times and the Romans planted vineyards here in the 2nd century. It was renamed after the monk Emilion from the 8th century. He settled in a hermitage carved into a rock. The monks who followed him began the commercial wine production in the area. Today the town is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Our local guide gave us a brief tour of the town including the Collegiate Church and Cloisters. Then we set off to sample the wine. We found a little open air bar. Ron has been studying French on Duolingo. He ordered us a bottle of wine and four glasses. It was a lovely day and we enjoyed the sunshine and the wine. The streets were confusing but we just headed downhill towards the river to our ship.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Looking up. Public laundry in foreground.
    Lots of steps to upper part of townThe Citadel of BourgGrounds of the CitadelCitadel gardensChurch of Saint-GeronceBeautiful tabernacleView from the top of town. You can see our ship on the bank.

    Bourg-sur-Gironde

    September 26, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 59 °F

    This morning Ron and I set off on our own to explore the tiny village of Bourg situated on a hilltop overlooking the Dordogne River. According to my research it was built in Roman times, invaded by the Visigoths, attacked by the Normans and fortified by the English. We explored the gardens of the Citadel which had beautiful views of the river. The 19th century church of Saint-Géronce was charming. We even had time to do a little shopping.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Citadel of Blaye
    RampartsRuins of Chateau des RudelView of esturary, islands and oppositse bankgrounds of citadelView of Blaye from the CitadelSheep on citadel groundsLow tide in BlayeHigh tide in BlayeWith our tour director Guillaume

    Blaye

    September 26, 2018 in France ⋅ 🌬 81 °F

    At noon we cast off from Bourg and headed to Blaye. Blaye is located on the east side of the Gironde Estuary and is known for its citadel complex high above the town. It was designed by Vauban, a military engineer during the reign of Louis XIV. Built between 1685 and 1689 its goal was to protect the town from invaders coming up the estuary. Along with forts on the other side of the estuary it was able to control river traffic. It is quite a complex with its own streets, barracks and even a prison. There are still ruins from a 12th century castle within the ramparts. Legend says the hero Count Roland of Blaye from the Chanson of Roland was buried here in the basilica on the site of the current citadel.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    A Chateau in the MedocChateau MargauxPickers in the vineyardArt work in the barrel houseoh boy, samplesChateau KirwanAwaiting dinner in the chateauWhere's our wine?

    Pauillac

    September 27, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 84 °F

    After a relaxing morning on the ship we left Blaye at noon, arriving in Pauillac in mid-afternoon. We then boarded a coach for a tour of the Médoc wine country. We drove by several vineyards including Château Margaux. Driving by is as close as we'll ever get to these superb and expensive wines. The grapes are ripe here and we saw pickers in the fields. We did stop at Château Marquis de Terme where the harvest was in full swing. It's quite a production process. A wine tasting was included, always my favorite part of a tour.

    In the evening we shuttled to Château Kirwan for an excellent meal and our favorite Bordeaux wine of the trip. The Forseti chef and crew prepared a marvelous meal of onion and garlic soup in a puff pastry; celery apple remoulade salad with smoked salmon; veal tenderloin with truffle juice, steamed vegetables and potato gratin; and a molten lava cake with vanilla ice cream and red wine syrup. Back on board we finished the evening with a selection of cheeses and Sauternes wine. What a wonderful day.    Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Enjoying our morning coffee
    Love my cafe au laitLunch on the Aquavit TerraceGreat service on boardVaulted cellar of wine museumFinal evening

    Bordeaux

    September 28, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    On our final day of the cruise we spent a leisurely morning on the ship as we traveled back to Bordeaux. It was quite foggy. After lunch Ron and I walked into Bordeaux for a self-guided tour of the Wine Museum (Musée du Vin et Négoce). It is located in the Chartrons District, home to the wine trade since the Middle Ages. The museum is located in a structure built in the 1720s by an Irish wine merchant named Francis Burke. Like most of the merchants of that era, he worked and lived in the same building. The museum is laid out in two of the vaulted cellars. Following our tour we were given a mini master wine class by a knowledgeable museum employee. We learned about terroir, appellations, and wine varietals--a nice review of our journey this week. Several tastings were involved, of course. We wish we could take some of these wines home with us.
    Our last evening on board was as wonderful as the first. The week passed so quickly. The next part of our adventure begins tomorrow with a train ride to Paris and a couple of days to explore the capital.    Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    The iconic Eiffel Tower
    Tomb of the Unknown SoldierView of modern Paris from Arc de TriompheReady for a cocktail at the hotel bar.

    Paris

    September 29, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    Saying farewell to Bordeaux we boarded a train for Paris. This was not the super fast TGV; we did make brief stops in Poitiers and Angoulême. Still, it only took three hours and the train was very comfortable. The scenery on the train was pretty ordinary. The scenery from our hotel in Paris, however, was fantastic. The Paris Pullman is located close to the Eiffel Tower. In fact we had a partial view from our rooms. Our first goal after unpacking was lunch. We found a wonderful restaurant called Beaujolais that served great Italian food! We still had time to show Pat and Mike a few sites. We started by walking to the Eiffel Tower for a closeup view. Then we took the metro to the Arc de Triomphe. There was some special veterans celebration going on--lots of people and old soldiers. We did a little strolling down the Champs-Elysées before returning to our hotel for the evening.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    A different point of view
    Saint Pierre du Gros CaillouToy boat in the TuileriesBeautiful Tuileries Garden with Eiffel Tower in backgroundPat and KathleenView of Louvre and Glass PyramidStrolling along the Rue de RivoliParisians in the Jardin des Tuileries

    Tuileries Gardens

    September 30, 2018 in France ⋅ ☀️ 57 °F

    On Sunday morning Pat and Mike took a three-hour coach tour of Paris provided by Viking. They said it was excellent with a marvelous tour of Notre Dame. Ron and I walked to a nearby church for Sunday Mass. It was called Saint-Pierre du Gros Caillou, Saint Peter of the Big Pebble. It was nice to attend Mass in a neighborhood church without tourists walking up and down the aisles. In the afternoon the four of us walked through the Tuileries Gardens and along the Rue de Rivoli. Lots of families were enjoying the beautiful weather and gardens.Read more

  • Kmcg52Chateaux, Rivers and WineTraveler
    Little Liberty on houseboatCharming houseboat on the SeineLes Arenes de LuteceAnimal cagesThumbs up in the ArenaSculpture on corner of building on Ile Saint LouisPretty garden on Ile Saint Louis

    Lutece Arena

    October 1, 2018 in France ⋅ ⛅ 55 °F

    It's our last day in Paris. We took time in the crisp morning air to walk along the Seine. We were above the fray of traffic and enjoyed the Parisian architecture and house boats on the river.
    In the afternoon we set out to find the Lutèce Arena located in the Latin Quarter. This arena was built in the first century by the Romans who called this settlement Lutetia. It seated 15,000 people and was used as an amphitheater, for gladiatorial combat, theater productions and circuses. You can still see the animal cages. In the seventh century it was used as a cemetery and eventually filled in completely and forgotten. Then, in the nineteenth century it was rediscovered during building excavation. Victor Hugo was instrumental in preserving and restoring it. It's a quiet little gem surrounded by a neighborhood. I've been hoping to see the Arena since I read about it in a mystery novel by Cara Black.
    Our next stop was the Ile Saint-Louis, the little island in the Seine. We strolled along its streets before heading back to our hotel for our last night in Paris. We chose an Italian restaurant nearby. The food was delicious and the service wonderful. It's been a fabulous trip with good friends. I always hate to say goodbye to Paris but I love the French farewell, au revoir, until next time.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 1, 2018
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