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Scotland & Ireland
  • Cathy Locke
  • Chris Rauen
  • Cathy Locke
  • Chris Rauen

Scotland & Ireland

Three days in Edinburgh, one week cruising around Scotland, followed by a week driving around Ireland. Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 28, 2026
    Scotland & Ireland

    Flowers of Scotland

    May 30 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Thus far on our journey through Scotland, it has rained at some point every day. The rain seems less like weather here and more like a blessing, breathing life into every corner of the landscape.

    Coming from the dry climate of California, I must admit I am more than a little jealous. The trees, plants, and flowers thrive in a way that feels almost enchanted. When I walk among the ancient trees, they seem fully alive—not merely growing, but aware. More than once I have found myself looking over my shoulder, certain they are communicating in a language older than words.

    The flowers are equally captivating. Abundant, vibrant, and astonishingly hardy, they remind me of young children—overflowing with joy, curiosity, and boundless energy. Every garden feels like a living tapestry, woven from rain, sunlight, and centuries of quiet magic.

    It has been a profound joy simply to wander through these lush landscapes, pausing to admire the beauty that seems to emerge effortlessly from the earth.

    The following photographs were taken in Edinburgh, at Cawdor Castle, and at Skara Brae—places where nature and history seem to exist in conversation with one another.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Clava Cairns

    June 3 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Two days ago we visited Clava Cairns, a remarkable Neolithic site near Inverness and the Culloden Battlefield. The complex includes passage graves, standing stones, and stone circles that have drawn people for thousands of years.

    Many who work with the Codex and harmonic resonance traditions view Clava Cairns as an important energetic node, connected to other sacred sites across Scotland, including Callanish and Stenness. Some believe these ancient places function as repositories of ancestral memory and consciousness, preserved through stone, geometry, and resonance.

    My own experience at the site was unexpected. As I walked among the cairns, I became noticeably dizzy and repeatedly sensed what felt like smoke, despite there being none present. The feeling was very strong.

    Within the framework of harmonic resonance, I interpreted this as a possible energetic entrainment—a temporary synchronization between my own field and the resonance of the site. The sensation was almost dreamlike, as if reality had shifted slightly out of phase.

    The impression of smoke felt symbolic. In Codex work, smoke is often associated with release, transformation, and the surfacing of buried memory. It made me wonder whether I was touching into something ancestral—an echo stored within the landscape itself.

    Whether these experiences are energetic, psychological, symbolic, or some combination of all three, Clava Cairns left a profound impression on me.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Orkney Islands

    June 4 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    These photos are from Shara Brae on Orkney Island. The site was occupied from roughly 3180 BC to 2500 BC and is Europe's oldest and most complete Neolithic village.

    By a miracle it was ever discovered during the winter of 1850. A severe storm hit Scotland, causing widespread damage and over 200 deaths. In the Bay of Skaill, the storm stripped earth from a large irregular knoll. When the storm cleared, local villagers found the outline of a village consisting of several small houses without roofs. After much excavation this stone-built Neolithic settlement was unearthed.

    I love all the organic shapes that create beautiful designs.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Orkney Island: Stones of Stenness & Ring of Brodga

    June 4 in Scotland ⋅ 🌧 13 °C

    Yesterday we visited the Stones of Stenness and the Ring of Brodgar on Orkney Island.

    My experience there was very different from Clava Cairns. At Clava Cairns, the energy was so intense that I was literally fighting the urge to pass out. Here, the connection was quieter and more subtle.

    At the Stones of Stenness, I couldn’t help but think about the history of the site. Centuries ago, a local farmer destroyed several of the stones, permanently altering the circle. Standing there, I had the distinct impression that something of the original coherence had been lost. The place still holds power, but the energy felt fragmented, as though parts of an ancient conversation had been silenced.

    The Ring of Brodgar was different. Although public access is currently restricted and I could only view it from a distance, I immediately sensed that it is a profoundly sacred place. What struck me most was the entrance stone. Even standing near it for a short time, I felt a strong presence—as if it were marking the threshold between worlds.

    Unfortunately, a modern road now passes very close to that area, making it difficult to linger and fully experience the space. Still, the message was clear: this is not a place that reveals itself all at once.

    My strongest feeling was that I need to return.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Iona Abbey

    June 6 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Today we made a pilgrimage to Iona Abbey, located on the sacred island of Iona, more than a two-hour drive from Tobermory, the main town on the Isle of Mull. It is one of the oldest Christian religious centers in Western Europe and has been regarded as a holy place for nearly 1,500 years.

    The production of Christian manuscripts, books, and annals was an important activity of the Iona monastery. The famous illuminated manuscript known as the Book of Kells is believed to have been created by the monks of Iona in the years leading up to 800 AD.

    One of the more sobering realities of Iona’s history is that the abbey was repeatedly attacked by Vikings. During a raid in 806 AD, 68 monks were massacred. Yet history has a remarkable way of coming full circle. By the late 10th and early 11th centuries, many Vikings had converted to Christianity, and some of their leaders were later buried on Iona. Also buried here are numerous Scottish kings—tradition says as many as 48—as well as kings from Ireland, Norway, and France.

     It was impossible not to feel the layers of history, faith, tragedy, and transformation that have unfolded here over the centuries. Looking out across the barren landscape today, one can easily imagine how vulnerable the abbey was—not only to invaders, but also to the relentless forces of wind, rain, and sea. The solitude and isolation, though peaceful, carried a weight of its own, adding to the profound sense of this sacred place.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    The Iona Nunnery

    June 6 in Scotland ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    The Isle of Iona in Scotland’s Inner Hebrides is famous for its abbey, founded by St. Columba in 563 AD. The abbey has been carefully restored and preserved, its history lovingly documented and celebrated.

    Yet it was not the abbey that captured my imagination most deeply. It was the nearby ruins of the Iona Nunnery.

    Unlike the abbey, the nunnery has never been fully restored. As I wandered among the weathered stones and gravemarkers, I found myself thinking less about the monks whose names fill the history books and more about the women whose stories were never fully recorded. Perhaps there are practical reasons why the abbey was restored and the nunnery was not. Yet I could not help but wonder how much of women’s history has simply been allowed to fade away.

    Founded around 1200, the nunnery was one of only two Augustinian convents established in medieval Scotland. The women who lived here maintained a largely self-sufficient community, managing land, gardens, livestock, and the daily rhythms of life on this small island. Today, little remains beyond the ruins and a handful of gravestones bearing fragments of forgotten names.

    One of the most intriguing discoveries was a Sheela-na-gig carved into the exterior wall of the nunnery. This image of a nude woman is often associated with protection, fertility, and ancient folk traditions. Sheela-na-gigs are frequently found near sacred wells and springs, places where the life-giving waters of the earth emerge.

    That connection immediately brought to mind one of Iona’s oldest legends.

    Long before Christianity arrived, local folklore tells of a woman who guarded a Well of Eternal Youth on the island. Iona itself was once known as the Fairy Isle, a place where the boundaries between worlds were believed to be thin. Historians may dismiss such stories as folklore, but I found myself wondering if they preserve something deeper—a memory of traditions that existed long before written records.

    What struck me most was what grew throughout the grounds of the nunnery. Everywhere I looked, Lady’s Mantle blanketed the earth in vibrant green. Associated with feminine wisdom, fertility, healing, and protection, the herb has been used for centuries to support women through pregnancy, childbirth, and postpartum recovery. Standing among the ruins, I could not help but wonder about the women who once lived here and the lives they led. The stones remain silent, but the plants seem eager to remember.

    Perhaps that is why the folklore surrounding Iona feels so important. Women left far fewer written records than men. Instead, they left stories, healing traditions, holy wells, plants, fairy tales, midwives’ knowledge, and local legends. The fact that these stories were passed down rather than formally recorded does not make them meaningless.

    The abbey preserved the story of the men. The nunnery leaves us asking questions.

    As I walked among the ruins, the Sheela-na-gig, the Well of Eternal Youth, the Lady’s Mantle, and the generations of women who lived and died here no longer felt like separate stories. They felt like fragments of a much older tapestry woven through the island itself.

    The Lady’s Mantle still grows. The old stories are still told. And the women of Iona, though largely absent from the written record, remain very much present.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Eating Our Way Across Ireland - Part 1

    Jun 9–12 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    We drove to the southern coast of Ireland and the charming town of Kinsale, a place renowned for its exceptional food scene. Over the past two evenings, we have enjoyed two of the finest dining experiences of our lives.

    Both restaurants—Finns’ Farmcut and The Black Pig Wine Bar—were extraordinary from the moment we walked through the door. The staff were warm, welcoming, and remarkably knowledgeable about every detail of the menu and wine selections. Their passion for what they do was so evident that at times it felt as though we were being personally served by the owners themselves.

    What impressed me most was the care behind every aspect of the meal. The chefs place tremendous emphasis on sourcing the finest local ingredients, and each dish was thoughtfully conceived and beautifully prepared. Nothing felt rushed or ordinary. Every plate reflected a genuine respect for the food, the region, and the dining experience itself.

    As we lingered over our meals each evening, it became clear why Kinsale has earned its reputation as one of Ireland’s great culinary destinations. These were not simply dinners—they were experiences we will remember long after our journey ends. 🍷🍽️🇮🇪    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland
    2Cathy in her element.

    Bunratty Castle

    June 12 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    On our drive from Kinsale to Galway, we stopped at Bunratty Castle and its adjoining medieval village. Built in 1425, Bunratty is now more than 600 years old and remains one of Ireland’s best-preserved medieval strongholds. From Norman knights and powerful chieftains to Tudor earls, Cromwellian forces, and modern-day restorers, its walls have witnessed centuries of ambition, conflict, and reinvention.

    The castle itself rises like a massive stone tower. Chris climbed all the way to the top, where he was rewarded with spectacular views of the surrounding countryside. Meanwhile, I kept my feet on the ground, wandering through a beautiful rose garden filled English roses. (yes, English not Irish).

    The medieval village was a delight to explore, bustling with schoolchildren who brought an extra sense of life and energy to the historic setting. One of the highlights for me was having my photograph taken with the two resident Irish wolfhounds.

    We also visited a small church where I noticed an intriguing symbol carved into the threshold stone: three interlocking triangles surrounding a central point. Known as the Triple Triangle, this geometric design has appeared in a variety of spiritual and philosophical traditions. In Freemasonry it is associated with higher degrees and serves as a symbol of the Divine and the sacred power of the number three. Finding it hidden in such an unexpected place added another layer of mystery to a day already steeped in history.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Eating Our Way Across Ireland: The Pullman Restaur

    June 12 in Ireland ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Last night we had the unique experience of dining aboard a beautifully restored Pullman train carriage, once part of the legendary Orient Express. We were excited to experience the Michelin-starred Pullman Restaurant, complete with a set tasting menu and wine pairings.

    The setting itself was undeniably special. Dining inside the elegant vintage railway cars felt like stepping back into another era, and the presentation of each course was beautiful.

    While we appreciated the creativity and craftsmanship that went into the meal, the flavors were surprisingly subtle and, for us, not particularly memorable. The wine pairings were mixed—some complemented the dishes well, while others missed the mark entirely. The staff was attentive throughout the evening, though we never felt the warmth and connection that had made our recent dining experiences elsewhere in Ireland so memorable.

    We are glad we had the opportunity to experience dinner aboard the train, and it certainly made for an interesting evening. However, it did not capture the sense of excitement, passion, and hospitality that we found at Finn’s Farmcut and The Black Pig Wine Bar in Kinsale. Those restaurants set an extraordinarily high bar and reminded us that great dining is about more than beautiful food—it is also about the people, the atmosphere, and the feeling that every detail is infused with care.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    The Cliffs of Moher

    June 14 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    The Cliffs of Moher, located in County Clare, are one of Ireland’s great natural wonders. Formed more than 320 million years ago, these dramatic cliffs have witnessed an extraordinary span of human history—from early fortifications in the first century and shipwrecks of the Spanish Armada in the sixteenth century to the rise of Victorian tourism in the nineteenth century. Today, they form part of a protected UNESCO Global Geopark.

    Standing at the edge of the cliffs, it is impossible not to feel both humbled and inspired. The sheer scale of the landscape stirs the imagination and awakens a sense of mystery. Waves crash endlessly against the rocks below while seabirds ride the winds that sweep in from the Atlantic, creating a scene that feels timeless.

    It is easy to understand why the cliffs are woven into Ireland’s rich tapestry of myths and legends. Stories tell of ancient warriors, witches, and giants who once roamed these shores. One Celtic legend from the pagan era recounts that after St. Patrick banished the snakes from Ireland, they fled to the Cliffs of Moher, where the Tuatha Dé Danann transformed them into waterfalls. Whether fact or folklore, the stories seem perfectly at home in a landscape where the boundary between the earthly and the magical feels remarkably thin.

    One Irish proverb captures the spirit of this place beautifully:

    “To be Irish is to stand as tall as the cliffs, with a soul as deep as the ocean.”

    Standing there, gazing out across the Atlantic, I could not help but feel that the proverb was true. The Cliffs of Moher are more than a scenic destination—they are a place where geology, history, mythology, and the human spirit meet at the edge of the world. 🍀🌊✨    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    Gregans Castle Hotel

    June 14 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    One of the joys of travel is stumbling upon places you never planned to visit.

    On our way back from the Cliffs of Moher on Sunday, we noticed a sign for Gregans Castle Hotel and decided to follow the long driveway lined with magnificent old trees. The moment I stepped out of the car, I heard the unmistakable rustle of a large dog charging through the grass. Sure enough, galloping toward us came a beautiful black standard poodle named Bob.

    A few minutes later, Bob’s owner arrived, and we discovered that he was also the owner of the hotel. From that very first encounter, the place felt warm, welcoming, and wonderfully relaxed.

    It was only the second sunny day of our entire two-and-a-half-week journey through Scotland and Ireland, and the gardens seemed to glow in the afternoon light. Inside, we found fabulous artwork of animals, and cozy corners filled with antiques that invited us to linger. We settled into a comfortable booth in the restaurant and enjoyed a delicious lunch. Only a few feet away sat Bob, being perfectly behaved.

    Nestled in the heart of the Burren National Park and dating to 1750, Gregans Castle Hotel is one of Ireland’s most celebrated country house hotels and a recipient of a Michelin Key. The Burren’s unique landscape has inspired visitors for generations, including J.R.R. Tolkien and Seamus Heaney.

    After spending a few hours there, it was easy to understand why. Sometimes the places we remember most are not the ones on the itinerary, but the ones that find us instead.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland
    Family coat of arm banners hanging at Eyre Square
    One of many of Galway family coat of arms on downtown buildingsAt one time, the Lynch family castleOne of the many bustling downtown walking streetsWith Oscar Wilde and Estonian writer and diplomat Eduard WildeThe Thomas Dillon Claddagh Gold ShopA replica of the Irish Claddagh ringRiver Corrib, one of Europe's fastest flowing city rivers1With our friend Des, a Galway nativeNear the Spanish Arch, a 16th century landmark and part of the medieval city walls

    Galway

    June 14 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    We took an historical tour of. the city of Galway from Arthur McGuire, brother of my friend Des, whom I’ve known virtually through a global Zoom-based meditation group. We learned quite a bit about this city through the tour.
    We met in Eyre Square, a popular gathering place with its own history going back centuries. Here, in June 1963, President John F. Kennedy paid a visit to Galway and just about the whole town turned out to hear him speak. That visit galvanized the town, and it has experienced significant development ever since. To honor President Kennedy after his assassination, there is a separate section of the square: the John F. Kennedy Memorial Park. That’s where we met Arthur to start our tour.
    A shopping mall is located just next to the Square, and there are remnants of the medieval city walls preserved within it. Remnants of medieval homes and buildings are visible across the downtown area; family crests of the wealthy families who controlled commerce and politics over the centuries adorn some of these buildings. Singer songwriter Ed Sheeran got his start here, too, busking in front of a popular retail outlet in the downtown area.
    Another highlight of our tour was a visit to the Thomas Dillon Claddagh Gold shop, opened in 1750. The ring produced here is a traditional Irish ring originating from the fishing village of. Claddagh in Galway. It features three elements: a heart for love, crown for loyalty, and hands for friendship.
    Arthur, our tour guide, wears one as his wedding ring. These rings can also be worn by single people, who wear it on the right ring finger with the heart pointing up. This indicates the wearer is available for a relationship. A better option for matchmaking here than match.com.
    Finally, the Oscar, Wilde-Eduard Wilde sculpture was designed by Estonian sculptor Tilu Kirsipuu. (This is a copy; the original sits in Estonia.) The copy was made and delivered to Galway shortly after Estonia joined the European Union.    Read more

  • Scotland & Ireland

    A Day in Dublin

    June 16 in Ireland ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Our last day in Ireland was also one of the most beautiful weather days of the entire trip. We spent it exploring the lively neighborhood surrounding Trinity College in Dublin. The area buzzes with energy, filled with students, historic buildings, pubs, and an endless stream of buses and trams weaving through the city.

    Our first stop was the National Gallery of Ireland, where I was pleasantly surprised by the number of works by female artists on display. From there, we visited the childhood home of Oscar Wilde before making our way to the famous “Book of Kells” exhibition. Begun by monks at Iona Abbey around 560 AD and later completed in Ireland, the beautifully illuminated manuscript remains one of the country’s greatest cultural treasures.

    It was a wonderful way to spend our final day, surrounded by centuries of Irish art, literature, and history beneath a rare blue Dublin sky.    Read more

    Trip end
    June 17, 2026