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  • Day 90

    Bitter Springs, Elsey National Park

    August 5, 2023 in Australia

    Saturday 5th August
    After packing up, we filled our water tanks and chatted to owner Alysia, and also Wendy and Pete, who came over to say farewell. They were also leaving today heading to Darwin. Hope we can catch up with Wendy and Pete again as we spent a week getting to know them at Happy Hours and enjoyed their company. They are permanently on the road in their van and said that they may come to Melbourne, and it would be good to see them.

    Alysia was lovely and said we are welcome back anytime, and we are now part of the family. Next time we are up in Katherine we will be sure to call in and stay. Not sure if I mentioned before, but it was $15 a night unpowered. It was a pity we did not get to say bye to the caretakers, Tracey and Steve who had left early to the Saturday Markets. Marcus has written a book with has been edited and is ready for printing, and I feel very privileged that he allowed me (and also Pam) to download a copy of his yet to be printed book on a USB stick. Some reading for a later time.

    We had a quick stop at the Market in town (nothing to see here…), and then we were on our way heading southbound. We were not planning on a big day, either stopping at Larrimah or Bitter Springs for the night, about 180kms, depending on where we stay.

    We arrived about lunchtime to Bitter Springs, and it was the first time we had swam there, although we had driven through before and stopped briefly.
    Bitter Springs is a series of naturally fed thermal pools located within the Elsey National Park, located a couple of kms from the highway and the township of Mataranka, and set among palms and tropical plants. Spring water rises from underground at a rate of 30.5 million litres per day, and the water is warm usually about 28-34 degrees.

    Bitter Springs made the news last month when the NT Parks closed access to the park after a Ranger spotted a 2.5mt saltwater crocodile in the management zone (not in the swimming area.) The park was closed for several days until it was safe to reopen.

    We were glad we had our caravan with us so we could change into our bathers before the short walk to the springs.
    The springs are very natural and unspoilt, unlike Mataranka which is extremely popular and smaller and has a man-made structure around it.

    Bitter Springs gently meanders about 500 mts, as you float downstream with the natural flow of the crystal turquoise water for about half an hour, get out, walk back on the path and repeat as often as you want. We got our snorkel and goggles out of the car and on our second circuit it made a huge difference to see the clarity underwater. We got to enjoy both the float on the first time and the underwater view on the second time.

    There were lots of little fish, and several small turtles in the water. When you get out you feel clean and refreshed. We both felt that this was equal to snorkeling the Great Barrier Reef, minus the coloured fish and coral, and minus the salt sticking to your skin when you dry off. The good thing about Bitter Springs is that the water does not get churned up with the weather like the Great Barrier Reef, and it remains at a constant temperature.

    While we were exploring and relaxing in the water, we got chatting to another couple. Usual question is where are you from, and where are you going. Raelene Potter was a teacher at Melton Secondary College in 1988 and worked under Doug Smith the principal. Doug was a teacher at my high school (Oak Park) and also the principal at the school my kids went to (Melton Secondary (kids used to call him Papa Smurf). Raelene also has a couple of friends who grew up in the area I grew up. Small world. Would have loved to chatted to them longer and see if we had any mutual acquaintances.

    It is a very calming and relaxing thing to do, and we will definitely be back someday.
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