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Far North Queensland & Beyond
  • Sommer Days
May – Sep 2023

Far North Queensland & Beyond

4 months Long Service and Annual Leave 2023 Read more
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  • Trip start
    May 8, 2023
    Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Getting ready to leave

    May 7, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 7 °C

    On previous trips, we have kept an on-line blog diary, which has meant that friends and family could follow our travels. At the end of the trip, we were able to print the diary into a book.
    Unfortunately, the blog site we used, ‘Travelpod’ has shut down and we have been searching for a similar site for this trip. We think we have found a suitable site, ‘Find Penguins’, and hope it is easy to use. We will find out…….

    Pre trip preparation.
    We have been looking forward to this trip for a long time. Lots of thoughts, ideas, preparations with the both the car and caravan, before we headed on our way.
    We will be away for 4 months, using L/S Leave and A/Leave and want to make things as comfortable as possible.
    We love travelling in the outback, and free camping, and are fully set up for off-grid camping.
    We have a 2022 Goldstream Panther Off-Road pop top, towed with a 2016 Ford Ranger.
    On our last trip on the Oodnadatta Track in 2022, we were legal but borderline with weights for car and caravan, but this trip we will also be taking the roof top tinny and boat motor.
    We have added a couple of solar panels to the roof of the caravan and an extra lithium battery under the bed in the caravan, so thought it best to do a suspension upgrade on the Ranger (GVM & GCM), which allowed us to carry extra weight and be within legal limits.
    The suspension and shockers were changed on the car to an engineered standard, which enabled us to carry more weight in the car and as a total package of car and caravan.
    We installed a super slim lithium battery behind the back passenger seat of the car, plus a DC-to-DC charger, which will now enable us to run a Waeco fridge in the back seat to keep drinks and food cold.
    In the caravan, we had to relocate the diesel heater under the bed to make way for the extra battery. Because of this, there is no storage under the bed as the area is filled with batteries, air conditioner, diesel heater, inverter, and electronics. The only thing we store under the bed is the TV, which has seldom been used, and the soda stream.
    We also brought a 250-watt portable solar panel to help top-up the solar charge if we needed it, which we carry in the back of the car.
    On the Oodnadatta Track trip, we got bogged in muddy ground on our first night of our trip away, and had to use our recovery gear to get ourselves out, using the winch on the car and a pair of maxtrax. This time we have added to our recovery gear an extra set of maxtrax.
    Although we are mostly happy with the caravan, there is a fault with the design of the ensuite door because it fell off on the first day of the Oodnadatta Track trip, and also in our previous Goldstream caravan the ensuite door fell off, even before we drove off the bitumen! This time we have removed the ensuite door and have replaced it with a curtain, which is much lighter and will not end up on the floor, or tied to the bed the entire trip as before.
    As the caravan is a pop-top, there is not a lot of storage, and it has minimal overhead storage, so we needed to think carefully about what we take, and only pack items that are compact and light-weight.
    About a dozen pre-cooked meals were frozen prior to leaving, and the freezer and fridge was stocked so we would not need to do a shop until we got to Cairns or beyond.
    Our last caravan had a 3-way fridge, but this caravan has a compressor fridge, which relies solely on electricity power (battery) to run. It is supposed to be more reliable in warmer climates, so we will test that out. This also makes us less reliant on our gas bottles.
    For cooking in the caravan, we have a 4-burner gas hob and grill, a portable induction hotplate and a butane cooker for outside cooking. We also like to cook on a campfire when we have one.
    As we were leaving home when it was quite cold, we needed to pack some warm clothes and bedding, but while in QLD we should only need light clothes.
    Final touches to the van to make it homely, were cushions for the bed, some small pot plants, a couple of storage pockets, a macrame hat holder, and a rug for the floor.
    We are ready to go.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    On the road

    May 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We are planning on being away for 16 weeks, departing on 8th May, allowing a week to get close to Cairns. We have a booking at Crystal Cascades Caravan Park in Cairns on 18th May for one week. Apart from staying with Emma-Jean and Jason at Curraghmore Station, we have no other set plans. We would like to explore Cooktown and FNQ, then maybe head west to Karumba, Borroloola, King Ash Bay, Nhulunbuy and Gove in East Arnhem Land and possibly even make it to Darwin, in the NT. The rest of the trip may result in tossing a coin as to direction of travel. We both need to be back at work the first week in September.
    We left home and travelled via Kyabram and had lunch with Corrie and Barry, as we would be away for Corrie’s birthday on the 25th May.
    Night one was spent at Weiss Beach on the Murray River near Tocumwal. We have not been to the Murray since the flooding earlier this year, so were curious to see if there were any changes. There was still a large sandy beach area, but the level of sand had built up and there was a lot of long grass. Not much debris around and no firewood. One other camper further down the beach, so it was very quiet. After a long day on the road, we had an early night. It was a bit chilly, so we put the diesel heater on to keep warm in the van, and certainly needed the extra doona on the bed.
    Night two was on the Bogan Weir, at Peak Hill (7kms west), south of Dubbo. Another cold night where the temperature dropped down to .5 degrees, but we were warm inside, and slept with 2 doona's and an extra blanket. There were about a dozen other vans in the campsite.
    We like to free camp and usually find reasonable sites by using Camps Australia 11 book, and WikiCamps and HipCamps, which are online apps. The problem sometimes with the online camps guide is that without internet reception, we cannot access photos, reviews, or information, so we need to do some quick research while driving through towns or re-fuelling.
    We are fully self-contained to stay off-grid and love the freedom of camping where we want to with minimal neighbours. Some ‘free camps’ have limits on the number of hours/days you can camp there, but we are not sure who monitors this as we have seen some sites that look like there are semi-permanent campers who have not moved for some time.
    As we are driving north through Coonabarabran and Moree, we notice more and more pieces of raw cotton on the side of the road, as we are driving through cotton farming areas.
    The next campsite we have selected is the Tareelaroi Weir, about 25kms east of Moree. Unfortunately, the Camps GPS directed us to the wrong side of the river, so we backtracked about 15kms to get to the campsite. The grass was very long, but we found a clearing near the Weir Regulator and set up for the night. No one else around. Before it got dark, we walked a short distance, but the grass was too long to walk far, and saw a black wild piglet run through the grass probably following mamma pig, which we did not see. Another early night, another very cold night.
    Thursday 11th May, we were woken early by workmen arriving to work on the regulator at the Weir. We weren’t in their way, and they didn’t bother us. Breakfast, then hit the road by 8.30am, driving over the QLD border and refuelled at Goondiwindi. The Leichhardt Highway was very bumpy with lots of roadworks, which we have found on most of the highways on the trip so far. The Newell Highway was extremely bad and bumpy. We figured that the amount of time we slowed or stopped for roadworks probably cost us maybe half a day in travel.
    Night 4, Friday 12th May, we spent at Gil Weir, on the Condamine River south of Miles. Apparently, you can only camp for 24 hours, but some people were set up quite comfortably for longer than that. The site had garbage bins, a boat ramp, and a drop toilet. We rarely use the facilities as we have our own onboard, and always take our rubbish (and some more) with us.
    We thought we would test the off-road capabilities of the caravan, (joking) so took a ‘short cut’ of 132kms on the Fitzroy Development Road between Leichhardt Highway and the Dawson Highway, coming out at Bauhinia. We have travelled on many development roads before but this was the worst. It started okay with bitumen and did have a few bitumen strips, but there was lots of sand, corrugations, and rough sections. Before hitting this road, we switched on the dust suppression fan which pressurises the van, keeping the dust out. Very happy to report that when we arrived at the other end, there was no dust in the caravan. Definitely worth the cost and a marriage saver! We have used it before on the Oodnadatta Track and was very happy with it. However, when we opened the door, we did find 4 screws on the floor of the van, but can happily report that we found where they came from! The snip on the shower door broke but we had a spare. Apart from that, happy campers!
    Campsite for the night was south-east of Springsure, called Staircase Range, which was not the easiest or best site we have stayed at, but was fine for the night. The camp was in a gully, and the track in was overgrown. The highway was only about 150mt away and was a bit noisy at first but quietened at night. We were the only ones there.
    We have a small 3kg washing machine in the caravan, which only uses about 20 lts of water and about 15 minutes to run a cycle, so we did some washing and hung it out to dry, dinner, then an early night.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Emerald Qld to Townsville Qld

    May 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    Saturday 13th May, drove into Emerald where we filled two of the water tanks on the van at the Showgrounds (the third water tank had not been touched yet), we refueled, and our next night was at Macrossan Park outside Charters Towers. There were lots of campers and vans there, some down on the sandflats next to the river, which was flowing with quite a bit of water. You could gauge the force of the water when in flood by the angle of the trees. Plenty of space for everyone and not crowded at all. Apparently a very popular free camp.
    We have 3 x 95lt water tanks under the van, plus a greywater holding tank. Some campgrounds and National Parks do not want you to drop your greywater (shower and sink water) on the ground and require campers to contain their grey water. We have used the greywater tank a few times, when needed and then drop the water after leaving the campground.
    We are very conservative with water usage, having short showers and washing up dishes on a small amount of water. Most towns have taps that will allow you to fill up your water tanks, but on previous trips we have come across a couple of places where we have had to buy water in the outback usually where water is scarce.
    The nights are getting warmer, and we are now finding that we are only using our light doona at night.
    Sunday 14th May we drove the shortest travel day yet, from Macrossan Park to Townsville, about 130kms.
    With no internet to do our research, we headed to Townsville before selecting a site and had to backtrack about 30kms on the road we had just travelled. Reviews were great and it sounded very welcoming. The name was ‘Lazy Acres Mango Farm’, on the Woodstock-Giru Road, on a 40acre mango farm with a creek running at the back of the property. Estelle, the owner said she had been there since 1971 and was originally from Melbourne. She was very welcoming and we had a great chat. It was only $10 a night to camp under her mango trees, and was very quiet. There was one other couple camped there, Phil and Christine and later that night we shared a campfire and had some laughs and drinks with them.
    We originally paid for 2 nights, but we did say to Estelle that we may stay longer, which we did, eventually staying for 4 nights. First paid camping for the trip. Cost for 4 nights: $40.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler
    1

    Townsville

    May 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Monday 15th May, left early and planned to spend the day on Magnetic Island. We took the toilet canister with us, looking for a dump point, which we eventually found after driving around Townsville and suburbs for 30-40 minutes. Our GPS directed us to one site in a shopping centre, which was non-existent, then we finally found a dump point at Lake Ross Dam.
    Back in town, we parked the car in an 8-hour parking bay, then took the Magnetic Island ferry for the 20-minute ride to Magnetic Island. Cost of the ferry was $34 return each.
    We were really looking forward to exploring the island, snorkeling and relaxing, but when we got off the ferry, we were disappointed that there was no information desk or anyone to advise. Most people headed for the bus, which we did not find out until later, was cash only. We could not find anywhere how much the bus cost. (The next day we went to the Information Centre in Townsville and were told it was $4.80 for the bus). After wandering around for a little while, we decided to hire a car, but most of the cars were already out. We managed to hire a little Hyundai Tucson, which allowed us the freedom to come and go, stop as we liked, and to keep our bags in the car instead of carrying them everywhere. Were also disappointed that we could not snorkel as we were advised that there were still stingers around. We explored, went to the bays, had lunch and a walk on the pier then returned the car and waited for the ferry. The hire car cost $100, and cost of fuel for the day was $8, and we maybe only did 20kms on the island. It was probably not the cheapest way to explore the island. Best advice would be to book ahead for a hire car and get a cheaper deal. We had a nice day, and it was good not to have to drive and tow the van, but, but probably would not go to Magnetic Island again.
    Tuesday 16th May, we planned to explore Townsville, so first stop was the Information Centre. The lady was very helpful and gave us a map with lot of things to do and see. Unfortunately, the Aquarium had closed as it was being re-built. The Military Museum was not open on Tuesdays. Castle Hill access road was closed so we could not go to the lookout. Just our luck! We did walk along the Strand, found a nice place for lunch at the Longboard Café, then picked up some supplies on the way home.
    We have been camped for 3 days under the shade of mango trees, so have had minimal sun for solar recharging, so when we got back, we set up the portable solar panels, but it clouded over and then it started to rain, so we ran the car for about an hour, just to give the batteries a boost.
    Estelle asked us to get some groceries for her while in town, so took them over to her which she was most grateful for. Theo took a front wheel of her 1947 grey Fergie tractor so she could take into town to be repaired. Brought some free-range eggs from her for $6, and she gave us some mandarins from her tree which were huge. They were the biggest and sweetest mandarins we have tasted. It was so lovely of her, and she was very grateful for Theo helping her with the wheel and us getting her parmesan cheese while in town.
    While we were out, a travelling bus/motor home arrived in the camp area. We spoke to the owners, Tony and Jade for a while, and they have been travelling and working on stations in the outback. They brought the Greyhound bus and gutted and renovated it completely, and have been driving it around for 15 years, working as they go, mainly on outback stations. Behind it they tow an older Land Cruiser ute.
    We took our chairs over and had a beer with them until it got dark.
    We left our chairs out under the awning while we were out today, and some green ants decided to take up home on Theo’s chair, so he had to get rid of them before he could sit down and relax. I said it was Karma because yesterday he was poking a green ant’s nest on Magnetic Island and I said he will regret doing that! LOL.
    Wednesday, and our last day in Townsville, so we drove to Ingham to see Wallaman Falls, about 50kms outside Ingham. The falls are the largest single drop waterfall in Australia, with the height of the falls 269 mts, and the pool depth 20mt. To get to the top of the waterfalls, we had to drive 27kms on a very, very windy steep road. From the carpark at the top of the falls, there was a walking track to the base of the falls which was another 4kms (which we did not do). We took in the sights from the top, then we drove back down the steep windy road. I hate driving on windy mountain roads, and did suffer a little anxiety and sweaty palms, but luckily Theo is an excellent driver.
    Being gluttons for punishment, we found another lookout on the way back home, just out of Townsville, called Mt Stuart Lookout. Again, another steep and windy road, again more anxiety and sweaty palms for the front seat passenger. I will think twice before we do another lookout!
    Happy to say that I calmed my nerves with a drink or two when we got back to the van.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Arrived in Cairns

    May 18, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Thursday 18th May – A long drive on a pretty boring road today, stopped at Cardwell for lunch and a walk along the pier, then back in the car continuing on to Cairns.
    Arrived at Crystal Cascades Caravan Park and set up camp. Barry and Bec came over to meet us, as they had a cabin for the night before moving on to Port Douglas. We sat around having some drinks, before arranging for the courtesy bus from the local hotel, ‘The Red Beret’ to come and pick us up so we could have a counter tea. Poor Bec was so tired, she fell asleep at the table, so after dinner we caught the courtesy bus back and had an early night.
    The caravan park at Crystals Cascades was chosen as it was close to where Emma-Jean was living at the time she sent out the birthday party invitations, but she has now moved to a property 2 hours north-west of Cairns. We still decided to base ourselves here as it was a quiet caravan park.
    Kim and Josh and the kids arrive tomorrow for a week. The caravan park is about 20minutes from Cairns, nice and quiet and we be out and about during the day. Loretta and Ron, Brooke, Nic and Hayley and Ollie arrive tomorrow and they are staying in Cairns, so we plan to meet them for dinner Friday night.
    Friday 19th May, we had a quiet day, catching up on washing etc. Kim and family arrived about 3pm and had an early night while we drove into Cairns to have dinner with the Burrows family at the RSL. After dinner, we walked along the foreshore, and enjoyed the balmy night walking amongst the trees that looked magical with coloured fairy lights. Another drink before saying goodnight and we would see them tomorrow at Curraghmore Station for Emma’s birthday.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Emma's 30th birthday

    May 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Saturday 20th May. Headed off about 9am to drive to the airport to pick up Scott arriving from Melbourne. His plane was delayed disembarking, then we were finally on the road, stopping at Mareeba, then arriving at the Station about midday.
    Curraghmore Station is about 150,000 acres, 40kms long and 60kms wide. The station is a 2 hour drive north-east from Cairns, or an hour west from Port Douglas on the Mulligan Highway about 10 minutes past Mt Carbine. Two rivers run through the property, the Mitchell and the McLeod River, and also Campbell Creek and Desailly Creek.
    The Station appears to be a non-working cattle station. There are some cattle on the property that do not belong to the owner and are agisted. There are also some ‘clean skins’ that are not tagged, that belong to whoever’s property they are on. Nice green grass around the station homestead which is watered by bore water. The water for cooking is from a rainwater tank.
    We were greeted by 6 dogs (2 belonging to the property owner, and 2 of Emma’s, with 2 foster dogs). The owner of the property, Adam Kazel was also at the property, but left after an hour or so.
    Some visitors arrived early and, and more arrived as the afternoon wore on, all here to celebrate Emma-Jean’s 30th birthday. 18 family members travelled from Victoria to Far North Queensland for the event.
    Soon after we arrived, Barry took us on a buggy ride to check out some of the campsites along the river to see which one was best suited for when we came to stay next week. We chose Site No. 6, with river frontage, open space for solar and a good turning circle.
    We had a lovely afternoon, celebrating Emma’s birthday and meeting up with family who had travelled so far from home. Emma looked lovely, she had decorated and had balloons and fairy lights. A fire was lit in the firepit, and we did appreciate it when it got cooler later in the evening. Cheese platters, then dinner was brought out about 6ish, as the spit had been cooking all day. After the birthday cake, 12 of us left in 3 cars heading back to Cairns. Others stayed on to continue partying.
    There was a fire alert due to a burn off in the area, and we passed through some burning embers and smoke on the side of the road shortly after leaving the Station. The rest of the drive home was not too bad, but I really hate the windy roads driving down the Kuranda Range. Surprisingly there were quite a few cars on the road. So glad to get down the windy hill and back home and have a cuppa before bed.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler
    1

    Cairns and about

    May 21, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Sunday morning, and we had a bit of a sleep-in and a lazy morning, went to the Crystal Cascades with Kim and family and the kids paddled in the river in the rockpools of Freshwater Creek. Walked past (quite close) to a sleeping amethystine python on the riverbank, which we didn’t see until Theo brought it to our attention.
    The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing, before meeting up with the Burrows family, Nathan, Jane, Barry, Bec, Kim, Josh and kids for dinner and drinks in Cairns, as some of the families were heading back to Melbourne the next day.
    During dinner we received a message from Emma that they were at Mareeba Hospital with Billie who had fallen off the motorbike and had possibly broken her arm. As some of the group were going to Fitzroy Island on the ferry the next day, we were not sure if they would be able to come with us.
    Monday 22nd May, we met down by the ferry, and were surprised to learn that Jason and Emma would be coming to Fitzroy Island, but they were waiting on Billie to be picked up as she had indeed broken her arm, and had a slab cast on it and would not be coming with us. Unfortunately, Billie’s lift did not arrive in time, and they had to catch the later 1.30pm ferry to the island, meeting us there. The ferry ride to the Island was very rough, and several people were seasick including poor Taleah.
    The beach on Fitzroy Island is made up predominately broken coral, with small sections of sand, and is difficult to walk on as it is so rough. Thongs or water shoes are recommended. The rough seas had stirred up the water, making visibility very poor for snorkeling but this did not stop most of the group venturing out. Hayden loved snorkeling and Theo had seen a turtle so took him out further where the visibility was a bit better, however the turtle had gone by the time they got back there. As usual, Theo was the first one in and the last one to leave the water, as he thoroughly enjoys snorkeling. We caught the 5pm ferry home completely exhausted after a big couple of days and had an early night.
    Tuesday 23rd had a quiet day, driving to Kuranda (up the windy Kuranda Range again), and spent some time at the Butterfly House, then walked around the shops but were disappointed to find most shops and markets were closed. We found out later that Mondays and Tuesdays are not a good time to visit Kuranda. Twelve years ago, was the last time we visited Kuranda, and we remember a vibrant, alternative hippy feel to the town. Nothing like that today.

    Wednesday 24th. We woke to rain in the morning, (it had been raining all night), and then went into Cairns and met up with Peter and Christine for lunch. Theo used to work with Peter until he moved to Cairns about 18 months ago.
    After lunch we had a quiet afternoon. Kim and Josh and the kids had booked an excursion to go ‘Tubing’ at Gordonvale, then went to Paronella Park for the day. When they got back, Hayden was very excited to tell us all about his day, including a detailed description of Paronella Park and its history, which was very impressive.

    Thursday 25th. We all headed to Port Douglas for the day. Kim had arranged to have dinner at Chilli’s Bar at 5pm and meet up with Emma-Jean and Jason, and the kids were excited to see the cane toad racing. We saw the cane toad racing at the old venue at the Iron Bar in the main street about 15 years ago, and it was unique and fun, and we had a good time. Seeing it for the second time, the jokes were old, and the venue was not as good. The new venue is a couple of blocks back and the only cover is some shade sails, as it was an outdoor venue. It was drizzling when we got there, so did get a bit wet at first. However, Hayden loved it and was enthralled by the toads and the atmosphere.
    When we arrived at Port Douglas, it was lunchtime, we were hungry and sat at a bar and had a bowl of prawns (memories of previous visits to Port Douglas), walked past St Mary’s By The Sea, the little church by the inlet, and the Sugar Wharf, and we then walked out to the Point, where we used to sit and watch the returning boats, but today was quiet and there were no boats coming in. The weather was nice and warm, but the sea was choppy, as it was the end of the wet season. The best time to visit Port Douglas is July/August /September when water visibility is much better for trips to the islands or reef for snorkeling etc.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Carraghmore Station camping

    May 28, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Friday 26th May. Our last day in Cairns.
    We are moving on today, but before leaving Cairns, we had booked the car in for two new front tyres and a wheel alignment in the morning. While packing up the van, Theo washed down the solar panels on the roof, and we discovered that the overhanging tree we were parked under for the past 8 days had allowed green ants to drop onto or climb onto the roof of our van. There where hundreds of ants on the pop-top section. Luckily, they had no access to the inside of the van, but it still took a bit of spraying, brushing, cleaning to get rid of them. We then parked up the van as we had arranged to leave the caravan at the Caravan Park while in town, getting the tyres.
    Kim and Josh and the kids were flying back to Melbourne at 3.30pm. After dropping off our car at Tyrepower, we met up with them at the Ferris Wheel on the Esplanade. The day was sunny and perfect. The kids enjoyed swimming in the Lagoon before we said our goodbyes as we had to pick up the car and then return to the Caravan Park to hitch up the caravan and head once again over the Kuranda Range. The car towed the caravan up the Range with relative ease and the road was getting more familiar as we had now done this trip several times.

    We arrived at Curraghmore Station about 5pm, set up the van on the McLeod River on camp site No. 6, which is about 3kms from the homestead. We then joined Emma and Jason for a drink around the fire before going back to the van.
    Saturday 27th May, we sat in the shallow river enjoying a drink and the peace and solitude for a couple of hours. Emma and Jason were joining us for dinner, so we lit the fire so we could cook in the camp oven. Cooked a yummy beef stew in the camp oven for dinner and a nice night chatting and drinking by the fire under the stars.
    Sunday 28th May. There are about 30 campsites on the property all on river frontages. Emma took us to some other campsites so we could see if we preferred another site, but we decided that the site we are on was most suited for us. It was reasonably flat, and not too steep access for the caravan. It was also clear enough to turn around. Had enough sunlight so we could boost up our solar, it had river access, and it was close to the homestead.
    The track between the homestead had some narrow, dusty, bull-dust sections, a creek crossing, some corrugations and 3 gates to open and close. We laughingly named the person opening and closing the gates, the ‘gate bitch’, and that person ended up with very dusty and dirty feet! Luckily for Theo, I volunteered to drive, which meant he was ‘gate bitch’!    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Curraghmore Station, Daintree

    May 29, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    Monday 29th May, we had arranged a fishing day on the Daintree River with Emma and Jason. We set the alarm (what is an alarm, we are on holidays....) and left about 6.45am for the drive to the Daintree River, just out of Mossman. We emptied the back seat of our car so we could take passengers, and towed Jase’s 21’ centre console fishing boat to the boat ramp, as Jase does not have a tow vehicle at the time being.

    After launching, we headed upstream as far as the Daintree Village, where the water was calm, and then downstream, where the water was choppier, dropping the line and casting lures hoping for a nibble.
    We had a lovely day cruising, but unfortunately only one fish was caught (by Jason, a small Mangrove Jack which he threw back.) It was a bit disappointing, as they catch fish all the time (that is Jason’s business – Topwater Fishing Charters/Adventure North Sportfishing Safaris), but the fish were all hiding today. Regardless, it was a lovely couple of hours cruising and croc spotting on the Daintree River.
    This is a World Heritage area, where the Daintree Rainforest meets the Great Barrier Reef. We cruised to the mouth of the river, where it meets the Coral Sea, but it was too choppy to go any further. If the weather was nicer and the river and sea not so choppy, we may have gone out to Double Island which was only about 15 minutes offshore. There's always next time.

    We saw about a dozen crocs, but the scariest one was the first one we saw, a large croc which was only a couple of metres from the boat. We saw it submerge, disturbing the mud, then leaving a mud trail where it went underneath the boat. It happened too quickly to take a photo.
    Jase is leaving tomorrow to spend 10 days fishing with some mates at Cape York, so we will stay camping at the Station until he returns, to keep Emma company, although she is very confident and comfortable staying at the homestead with her dogs. She has campers coming and going and doing bookings and payments, then checking sites are left clean etc. before new campers arrive.

    We may do a run to Mareeba about an hour away to replenish stocks. We have enough solar so we can recharge every day, and the river water is clean enough that we can pump it into one of the van water tanks.

    We have 3 water tanks, two still have good town water which we have not touched. When tank number 3 is empty, we pump water from flowing river through a filter and use that water for washing dishes, showering etc. We have also been using it in the kettle, through a second filter, and it tastes fine and have had no ill effects using it for the past 2 weeks. City mindset that water needs to come out of a tap or a bottle!

    Tuesday 30th, had a great night’s sleep, and a leisurely breakfast watching the river flow by. In the morning Theo spotted a small freshwater croc swimming upstream. By the time he got his camera, it was out of sight. We did a couple of small housekeeping jobs, catching up on diary entries, downloading photos etc. As we have no internet on our campsite, we log on the Station's WiFi when we go there.

    Camping here is so relaxing, we do a few chores in the morning, then sit and watch the river flow by. I am not sure where the day goes, as we are just winding down and chilling out. Sometimes we take our chairs and sit in the shallows of the river, having a drink, enjoying the peace and solitude. At dusk, the cockatoos squawk and fly overhead, the kookaburra’s laugh in the distance, the solar fairy lights come on under the caravan awning and we light the campfire and sit by the fire and cook dinner. After dinner, we head indoors, shower then download photos, read, play cards etc. Repeat the next day.

    The days all blend in together, we have been here for two weeks, and sometimes we forget what day of the week it is. The caravan requires minimal housework, and once the bed is made and breakfast is done, we sit outside and enjoy the serenity.

    As Jason is still away, we spend most evenings with Emma, either at the homestead or she drives the buggy out to our camp. We sit around the fire, enjoying a drink and talking for hours. It has been lovely sharing time with her, and I think she has appreciated the company. Sometimes the owner visits and stays at the homestead, and she spends time at our camp as an escape from him. There are ongoing issues with him, and unless these issues are sorted out, we don’t believe that Emma and Jason will stay long here caretaking.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Station life

    June 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    While we have been at the Station, we have been driving back and forward to the homestead and the dusty tracks has covered the car in such thick dust that the original colour is barely visible. In Mareeba, we took the car through the carwash, and it sparkled, but by the time we got back to camp, it was covered in dust again.
    Although fast flowing, we have not seen any fish in the McLeod River, other than small ones, as it is too shallow where we are camped.
    However, there are red claw, which are similar to freshwater crays or yabbies, and only come out at night. Theo and Emma have had fun wading in the river in the dark with torchlights searching for the little red eyes that glow when light is shone on them. The red claw can move quickly, so you do have to be fast on your feet to catch them. We have enjoyed red claw for an entrée and have also had them as an after-dinner snack basted in garlic butter. A very tasty bush tucker meal, but a bit messy to peel. We have heard of other campers on other campsites that have caught up to 25 easily by hand in one night, but where they were camped, the riverbank was steeper and had overhanging branches where they like to hide.
    To get from our camp to the homestead, we pass through 3 stock gates which need to be opened and closed, past a dam, and through a creek crossing. In the past 2 weeks we have noticed that the creek is drying out and we are no longer driving through water. Pretty sure the creek will be dry by the time we leave.
    We like to slow down while passing the dam, and sometimes stop to watch the wildlife. Apart from the many cows, there are bush pigs which run off into the bush, some brolgas, cockatoos, galahs, parrots and many different types of birds, ducks and also wallabies. There are apparently lots of dingoes around but we have only seen one. Also have seen some cane toads around the homestead and near the river.
    When we arrive at the homestead, we are greeted by the station’s 6 horses that like to stay near the main gate or the house. They are stock horses but have not been used for a while as it is not a working cattle station, although the owner has big ideas to expand the cattle side of things and upgrade the house and infrastructure. He has owned the property since 2017, but he has fingers in other joint ventures with his family. They have several restaurants in The Rocks and Circular Quay. (Google his name for an interesting read!)
    We do a firewood run every so often and pick up wood on the ground to take back to camp. Most of our cooking has been on the campfire, which we light about 3pm. Sometimes it is a bit windy until the sun goes down, then we sit closer to the fire and cook dinner on the coals. Apart from one or two bites, there are no insects or flies, although I still spray the insect repellent out of habit.
    About 20 minutes from the homestead is Cooktown Crossing, a large river where both the Mitchell and the McLeod Rivers have combined. Curraghmore Station has some paid camping on the side of the crossing, but there is also some free camping on the other side of the river, which we have been told is on crown land and listed in the Camps 11 book and other free camping sites. That side of the river is on Brooklyn Station, the adjoining property, and they don’t seem to worry about campers on their land.
    Emma and Theo fished at Cooktown Crossing, but all Theo caught was a tangled web on the bait caster. He wore his ‘El Questro’ singlet, but in the photo, clever Emma had photoshopped it to read ‘El Nofisho’. It was so funny, because he did not notice it until people started commenting on his post.
    Back at camp, we cleared some long grass and put the hammock up between two trees. It was relaxing gently swaying and watching the river flow by. We have a lot of time to relax, and we decided to take a ‘funny photo’ which involved both of us sitting in the hammock, back to the camera, topless looking out to the river, using the tripod and Bluetooth.
    The photo shot was tasteful and fine, but the funniest part was when I tried to get out of the hammock. I am so uncoordinated. I was laughing so hard that I was not aware that Theo was clicking away still taking photos. Cheeky boy. My legs were heading east and west and the rest was heading south. Goes without saying that those photos have been deleted!
    We have travelled about 18 years on outback roads and have never had any windscreen issues, but on this trip, we received one crack and two stone chips on the windscreen, all on the driver’s side while driving on the perfectly sealed Mulligan Highway. Lucky for us we have windscreen replacement on our vehicle insurance. We do not plan to replace it until we need to or have finished driving on unsealed roads, however we have done a temporary patch and hope that it will stop the cracks spreading.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Last days at Curraghmore

    June 10, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We have enjoyed our 2 plus weeks at Curraghmore Station. The Station is listed in the Camps 11 book, which usually lists free and low-cost campsites. Information and bookings can be done on the Curraghmore Station website. Cost to camp is $30 per adult per night, which we felt was very expensive considering there are no facilities. However, it is a very popular camp destination for locals for weekends and holidays.

    We felt privileged to have been allowed to stay here as ‘parents of the caretaker’ with permission of the owner, however we would not have stayed this long if we had to pay. Calculated the cost of camping here for our 16 days at $960!
    It has been lovely just relaxing and unwinding, walking, bird watching, reading, talking, exploring and generally just pottering around.

    While we were camped up, we also tidied up some long grass and dead bushes around our campsite, which opened up the camp area and gave us a better view of the river. The owner and caretakers were happy for us to do this. The owner is going to do a burn in the next few weeks, so we are glad we were here before the burn as the blackened grass would smolder and smell for a while.

    Emma had to go into Cairns (a 2 hour drive each way) on Friday, so left us Grey Nomads in charge of the station and checking campers in. It was fun to do something different and meet some fellow campers, and we spent the whole day at the homestead working and catching up on downloading photos and our diary/blog.

    Another interesting thing about this Station is that there was a murder here in 2012. Google ‘Curraghmore Station Murder’ for more information.

    Emma and Billie had a camp out with 3 of the dogs and set up their small dome tent under our awning. They had barely room to move, and Emma hardly got a wink of sleep, I think she was glad to see the sunrise.

    Sunday 11th June. Our last night at the station was spent with Emma, Jason and his 3 fishing mates. Jason brought us back some frozen barramundi which we will look forward to eating. Emma cooked a yummy pork curry and after a few drinks they all headed off in search of red claw, and we headed back to bed as we were planning to be on the road early the next morning.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Elim Beach Part 1

    June 12, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    Monday 12th June. We drove the 2 hours to Cooktown where we refueled and continued on through Hope Vale. The Lutheran Church originally established the Hope Vale community in 1886 as the Cape Bedford Mission at Elim Beach.
    The local Guugu Yimithirr people like all Aborigines in Australia have been here for approximately 100,000 years. The Guugu Yimithirr first came to prominence in 1770 when they engaged with Captain James Cook and his crew on the ship Endeavour. As is known in history, the Guugu Yimithirr hosted Captain Cook at present day Cooktown for 7 weeks. During this time, he not only had to repair the Endeavour he also met the local people and engaged with them along with Joseph Banks and Sydney Parkinson. Hope Vale is no longer run as a mission by the church but has its own elected community council. The small town has a population of over 1000 people, and has medical facilities, school up to Grade 6, a supermarket and other essential services. There were quite a few dogs wandering in the streets, that we were careful to avoid while driving through the town.

    Elim Beach is about 20kms further on from Hope Vale. We have booked in at Elim Beach for 3 days and wanted to get there early to take advantage of the first day.

    Elim Beach Campground used to be called Eddie’s Camp, home of Eddie Deemal who passed away aged 95 about 18 months ago. The campground is now operated by his son, Ivan Deemal. We had seen a DVD of the Gall Boys from Kedron Caravans who had spent time with Eddie, and this inspired our visit.
    We booked for a beach front site, but also knew that it was ‘first in best dressed’. The beach front sites were $20 per person per night, a total of $120 for 3 nights, but as we were to discover, it was so worth it.
    We had the pick of 3 sites on the beach but chose the one with grass as we had been camping in dust for the past couple of weeks. What a fantastic site. Right on the beach, about 10 steps to the sand, full sun for our solar, and a view to die for. The main campground was grassy and quite shaded, and was $10 per person per night. We were glad we arrived early to choose our site on the beachfront (we chose site 1A).
    There are cold showers and flushing toilets and a camp kitchen, but we are fully self-contained and arrived stocked with water and food. There are restrictions on bringing alcohol into the area so we only had about a dozen cans and some wine. No checks were done.
    We have nice neighbors, a family originally from Victoria travelling full time on the road in a caravan on one side, and a young couple also travelling full time in a 4WD, roof top tent and annex set up on the other side.

    We spent a bit of time getting to know our neighbors and enjoyed some nice chats, especially with young couple camping nearby, Jess and Mika. Jess is learning fire twirling and entertained us after dark with her skills. She had been using LED lights for twirling, but this was the first time she had actually used fire and it looked and sounded amazing. She said twirling was a real upper body workout, and she was tired after each session. It was a great spectacle on the beach at sunset. We were so lucky to witness it. Jess was very good and said she may think about busking at Mindil Markets in Darwin. We may meet up with them again as we may travel to Darwin before heading down south.
    I was reminded of a younger self travelling around Australia in a Kombi in the 1980’s, although their set up is much more sophisticated that the old Kombi.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Elim Beach Part 2

    June 13, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    While we were enjoying our stay relaxing and walking along the beach, there are a couple of places to visit nearby and drives that you can do while staying here. One is to visit the Coloured Sands, and the other is a 4WD trip to Cape Bedford.

    The coloured sands are accessible by 4WD driving on the beach and can only be accessed at low tide. We drove past a wreck of a vehicle stuck in the sand, apparently it rolled and was trapped by the incoming tide and has been there for many years as it was completely rusted out.

    The coloured sands were interesting to see, all shades of red, pink, yellow, brown, orange and black on the cliff face, blending at times, looking spectacular against the white sand.

    After leaving the Coloured Sands, we started to drive to Cape Bedford, but the track became too sandy, and as we were travelling alone, we/I decided not to continue, much to Theo’s disappointment. His nickname for me is now the ‘handbrake’. We did travel for a couple of kilometres parallel to the beach on a narrow sandy track, through several deep freshwater crossings until the track started to get very sandy. I became anxious and I really did not feel comfortable travelling by ourselves in case we got bogged or scratched the sides of the car, so we abandoned our plans.

    There are quite a few shacks on the beach used by locals, some quite sound and others are in ruins or falling down. Campers are given quite firm advice not to visit the beach shacks.
    The beach is a mixture of mudflats and sandflats and looks wonderful when the tide is in, but when the tide is out the mud is exposed. Ivan said that there are no crocodiles here, as apparently, they don’t like the mud flats as there is no food for them, but further down near the river mouth there is a resident croc.

    We were also told that there are no stingers, but as beautiful as it is, it is not a swimming beach, as wading into the water near the shore, you end up with mud up to your calves. We watched some kids having fun, rolling around in the mud in front of the camp near the mangroves. Another beautiful sunset, another fire twirling show by Jess, and another balmy star filled night sky.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler
    1

    Elim Beach Part 3

    June 14, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    It is our third day camping here and we are totally relaxed and enjoying the sea change. After breakfast we would sit outside under the shade of the awning, reading, talking and watching the waves recede with the outgoing tide.

    High tide is about 6.30am, and after breakfast, when the sandy beach is exposed, it is the best time to take a walk along the sand.
    We walked along the beach, for about an hour and then out to the exposed sandbar and then back to camp. There are a lot of freshwater springs seeping out of the sand dunes all along the beach, and we had a refreshing drink while doing the long walk.
    While walking, we noticed several corrugated iron drum/circles in the water at various locations. On closer inspection we realized that when the tide is out, fresh water pours out of the drums from an underwater aquafer flushing out the saltwater Ivan said that the drums are put over a freshwater spring, allowing the locals fresh drinking water. It is amazing to see and taste because there is no trace of salt in the water.

    Theo enjoyed sitting on the beach by the incoming tide at sunset, with fishing line in one hand and beer in the other, but only caught one small fish. Other campers around us tried to catch mud crabs in the mangroves or waded out to the sand bar to fish but had little or no luck.

    After dinner, we would sit outside and look up at the amazing sky full of stars, counting the satellites and shooting stars before coming in to shower off the salt and sand which sticks to your skin, along with the humidity making everything feel damp and sticky.

    Temperature during the day is 28-30 degrees and very humid, and drops down to about 24 degrees at night, which is quite warm for sleeping.

    One great thing here is that there are no flies, bugs, no sandflies, or insects to make life unpleasant. This may change at different times of the year. We did get one or two bites but nothing to worry about.

    We have had a lovely time here, prime beach campsite, lovely neighbours for 2 of our nights here. After Jess and Mika left, another caravan moved in within 3 minutes of them leaving and they shut themselves off in the corner with their privacy screens and did not acknowledge our greetings and just turned their backs on us. Guess some people just want to be alone!

    We are leaving here tomorrow morning. We plan to go back to the Station for a couple of days but may stop somewhere in between if we see somewhere nice to camp.

    We have really the enjoyed swapping dust and dirt for sand and sea.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Elim Beach to Endeavour River Escape

    June 15, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Thursday 15th June. Next entry NO. 1
    After a great night’s sleep and breakfast, we hitched up the caravan, said farewells to our lovely neighbours next door, Grant and family in the New Age caravan who have been on the road for 14 months, originally from Rosebud, Victoria, then left our amazing campsite.
    While we were packing up, we noticed that the unfriendly neighbours on the other side had also partly packed up and we were to learn from Ivan Deemal when we spoke to him before leaving, that they had requested to move on to our site. Seems that they were watching and waiting until we moved out. Who could really blame them, after all we did have the prime, best beachfront site at Elim Beach, site 1A.
    On the road out, we drove over a wooden bridge where we stopped to take a photo of the original post and beam bridge below which was falling apart. Even when new, it would have been rickety driving over it. The new bridge was rated at 2.6 ton, and on the way in to Elim Beach, we drove the longer bypass around the bridge as our weight is 6.5 ton, but after talking to Ivan who said that trucks drive over it, we took the shorter route on our way out.
    We arrived in Cooktown about lunchtime and refilled our water tanks, used the dump point, went to the hardware store for some parts we wanted, walked along the waterfront brought fish and chips for lunch, visited the Tackle Shop, IGA and liquor store, and we were happily back to being fully stocked again and ready to hit the road.
    As we had no internet at Elim Beach, but had prepared and typed up our diary, we posted two blog entries while in Cooktown.
    We decided to stay at Endeavour River Escape camping ground about 10 minutes north of Cooktown, on the other side of the Cooktown Airport, which we had read good reviews about, driving for 5kms on an unsealed road until we got to the homestead. Owner Terry went ahead on his quadbike while we followed him to Campsite No. 12. It was a lovely green, treed, shady camping ground with 32 campsites, all set spaciously apart. Hot showers and flushing toilets, camp kitchen, firewood for sale and some rainforest walks to the Endeavour River. Cost $30 a night. We sat outside for a while and walked to the boat ramp but there were lots of mozzies buzzing around. We had sprayed Bushmans and the mozzies gave us a couple of bites, decided not to have a campfire due to the mozzies and insects, and cooked a quick dinner outside on the induction hotplate, then retreated inside to shower and have an early night. One night at this campground is enough for us. It is nice and green but it is far too shady and rainforest-y with too many mozzies for us. Not enough sunlight.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Back to Curraghmore Station

    June 16, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    After a quick walk in the morning, we packed up and headed the short drive back into Cooktown for fuel and water before driving back along the Mulligan Highway and back to Curraghmore Station. Emma and Jason want to go camping and fishing at Lake Tinaroo, so we plan to stay the weekend then all head off early next week. We need to find somewhere to camp that allows caravans, as there are quite a few camping grounds around the lake, but none that are accessible to caravans except for the Caravan Park at Yungaburra.

    After breakfast on Saturday morning, Emma and Billie arrived in the buggy to ask if we could smell the smoke and if we wanted to see the burning off along the highway. Bud and 4 other guys and Jason were burning off along the frontage near the entrance to the Station. Two guys were walking along with drip torches, one guy was driving the dozer creating a firebreak and clearing the scrub, two other guys on the water tanker putting out spot fires and one guy on the quad bike. Bud agists his cattle on the station.

    Emma, Billie and I drove down the highway in the buggy and placed the ‘Smoke Hazard’ signs ahead of the burn, and Theo walked along the side of the road taking photos, as this is not something we usually see. There were so many birds, whistling kites, hawks and others circling over the fire taking the opportunity of a quick meal with all the insects moving around on the ground and being displaced. The bird show was nearly as spectacular as the fire show to watch, with so many of them swooping and flying down in the smoke and fire just to get a feed.

    After a big day, we cooked dinner at our camp, another stew in the camp oven, and Emma brought the mashed potato. After dinner and a drink or two at our camp, then Emma, Jason and Billie headed back to the homestead for an early night, as there was going to be another planned burn tomorrow morning starting at 8am. Theo was going to join the crew as they were one man short, and they hoped to be finished by lunchtime.

    Theo woke early and headed up to the homestead about 7.30am. I stayed in bed for a while reading, had a leisurely start to the day, then got up, and after breakfast, did a couple of loads of washing, some cleaning, and enjoyed some alone time reading and enjoying the tranquility of the bush.

    Before leaving home, I downloaded about 35 books on my kindle, and have read 3 books so far, plus another paperback book I brought about a murder at Palmerville Station which is not far away from where we are travelling, which was very interesting.

    I then started packing up around the camp as we were moving the next day and then drove up to the homestead at the agreed time, but no-one but the dogs were there, so headed back to our campsite.

    About mid-afternoon I could hear the dozer up on the road nearby and then could hear the crackle of fire. I walked up to the hill and could see the fire crew advancing my way.

    As much as logic told me that they all knew that we were camping on the river, and that Theo was on the water tanker, the sound of fire approaching, and the smell of smoke is extremely unnerving. Emma and Billie drove down to check on me, and the dozer driver, Bud also came down while clearing a fire break through the bush, then Jason also came to check on me. Luckily, as there was a lot of greenery, and the fire break had been cut just before our camp, the fire did not come near, but it was still quite unnerving. Emma and I saw the first ‘snake’ which wriggled out of the undergrowth disturbed by the burn off, but it turned out to be a legless lizard. We have not seen any snakes while here.

    Bud Quaid has cattle on this property, so he was clearing the land in case a campfire from one of the campsites got out of control, to protect his cattle. Not sure what the agreement is with Bud and the owner Adam, but Jason worked 2 days and Theo worked Sunday helping his crew clear the undergrowth.
    I think Theo enjoyed his working day, came back dirty and smoky and he had a long hot shower at the homestead, then we had barramundi that Jason cooked for dinner.

    We were having trouble finding a campground (other than the Caravan Park) where we could camp for a couple of days at Lake Tinaroo. Luckily, working with Bud paid off, as he has offered us to camp on his land which fronts on to Lake Tinaroo, which is wonderful. He apparently owns lot of land in FNQ, including the Daintree and has a couple of businesses and is very well known and quite wealthy. The land we are going to camp on was 10 acres (now partly subdivided) with an Air BNB on it, but as it is midweek no one will be there. Perfect timing. Online photos show grassy lawn down to the lake. Looks beautiful. It is on Quaid Court, named after Bud Quaid’s family.

    Bud is a good contact for Jason to have as he employs about 160 people in his businesses, and Jason has showed him that he is a hard worker and has a good relationship with him. When they leave the station, I am sure Jason will not have any trouble getting work until the fishing season starts again.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler
    1

    Lake Tinaroo

    June 20, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Emma left early with Billie to go to Cairns where Billie had an appointment with a specialist to check on her broken arm. Jason was towing his boat with his recently acquired Toyota Hilux, and we were towing our van, so we were all travelling in separate vehicles. It took us about 2 hours to get to Lake Tinaroo, as we stopped in Mareeba for fuel, and Jason wanted to wash his boat as he had not done it since returning from the boy’s trip to Cape York a week earlier. We arrived at Lake Tinaroo early afternoon.

    Bud had confirmed with his daughter Bo and her husband CJ who live on the property and run the Air BnB that we were welcome to camp on their land. They had no guests booked in until Friday, so timing was perfect. They were so welcoming and friendly. Bo showed us through the house which has 10 beds in 4 bedrooms, a huge lounge and kitchen area. She said we were welcome to use the toilet and bathroom or kitchen if we needed to. Emma and Jason went into the house for the toilet but other that filling our water tanks, we did not need to go into the house.

    Billie had her plaster cast removed while at the hospital and now has a sling which is only temporary until she gets the feel of using her arm again. They gave her back her plaster cast which was pink with sparkles and a bow on it, but it was put in a plastic bag because it smelt really bad and was so dirty. So hard for a 3-year-old to keep it clean while living on a dusty outback station. Billie is staying with Emma and Jason while her mum is overseas but will be going home to Cairns next week.

    We went to the Tolga Pub for a counter meal, which was about 15 minutes’ drive away. Emma had slow cooked some pork and put in the fridge at home but forgot to put it on the list for Jason to pack, and that was going to be our dinner. Oh, well, it will still be there when they get home.
    After a nice meal at the pub, we came back and lit the fire and sat around and had a good belly laugh when Poppy Theo and Billie bounced off each other calling each other funny names. It was hilarious, and I had tears running down my cheeks I was laughing so much.

    The night was cold, and as Emma and Jason and Billie were sleeping in their tent, I lent them an extra blanket which they used. Emma said that they were cosy and warm, but I think we were warmer in the van with the diesel heater on. It is hard to believe that a week ago we were so hot at night we could barely sleep at Elim Beach, and tonight we have the heater on!

    After breakfast we cruised around Lake Tinaroo trying to catch a fish. We came back to camp for lunch and then they headed out again. They then packed up their tent about 5pm and headed back to the Station. We were staying another night, which was fine with Bo and CJ, as they did not have guests until Friday.

    Tomorrow, Wednesday we pack up and head to Innot Hot Springs.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Innot Hot Springs to Croydon

    June 23, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    It was a cool night, and we woke up to a wet morning, only the third wet morning on our trip so far. It had been raining during the night and the awning and chairs were wet. We had put the chairs under the awning before we went to bed but have discovered that the rain is coming down between the caravan and the awning and dripping down the side of the van. A fix-it job for another time.

    We packed up and said our goodbyes to Bo and CJ and thanked them for allowing us to camp on their beautiful property, and Bo said we were welcome to come back any time.

    We drove through mist and rain over Misty Mountain (true name), part of the Great Dividing Range, in the Atherton Tablelands, and arrived at Ravenshoe where we refueled and got some groceries before continuing to Innot Hot Springs.

    We have been to Innot Hot Springs twice before and have never booked in advance, but this time, the park was nearly full, and we luckily got the last powered site. The caravan park has been taken over by new owners, but it did not look any different to the last time we were there about 4 years ago. The park was 90% full of grey nomads (present party excepted). I know we are not getting any younger, but I always feel that we are the youngest people in these parks! LOL

    A lot of people visit the mineral springs because the hot mineral springs are meant to have healing qualities, including aiding arthritis, sleep and skin disorders, blood pressure etc. At Innot, there are 6 pools with different temperatures, starting from the cooler lap pool up to the hottest pool being about 45 degrees.

    Australia has many of these hot water sites – due, in part, to the Great Artesian Basin, which underlies almost a quarter of the continent. This vast, ancient, natural water reserve is the world’s largest and deepest artesian system. Heated water rises under pressure and out through natural cracks or drilled bores to emerge as thermal springs.

    We have been to and had a dip in quite a few hot mineral springs in various locations in Australia, including Mataranka, Katherine, Daly River in NT, Lightning Ridge, Moree and Walgett in NSW, Zebedee Hot Springs at El Questro WA, Innot Hot Springs in Qld, plus also Peninsula Hot Springs in Victoria. We have also seen them on the Oodnadatta Track, at Coward Springs and Burketown in the Gulf of Carpentaria.

    We had a dip when we arrived, then came back to the van and Theo did a repair on a damaged Anderson plug on the car. The Anderson plug helps charge the batteries while driving, and we had noticed that it was working intermittently due to corrosion. Luckily, he carries spares and tools for such a situation, and is more than capable of doing the repairs.

    Another afternoon dip in the hot spa, and then cooked fish for dinner. Jason gave us some frozen Barramundi and Spanish Mackerel fillets before we left the station, and our freezer is full.

    The boys he took fishing to Mapoon in Cape York had planned to take frozen fish on the plane back to the Gold Coast, but when they got to the airport, they were told they could not take the fish onboard, so Jason brought it back home to the Station and put it in his freezer. I wish I had more room in the caravan freezer, as I could have taken as much as I wanted. Sort of makes up for the fish that Theo aka ‘El Nofisho’ does not catch. LOL. When the boys were away, between the 4 of them they caught 500 barramundi in 10 days, catch and release, so they were pretty disappointed that they could not take some fish fillets home with them.

    Tomorrow, Thursday we head west, towards either Georgetown or Croydon, on our way to Karumba.

    Innot Hot Springs to Croydon
    Uneventful drive today on the Savannah Way from Innot Hot Springs, through Georgetown and ended up at Croydon for the night. We stayed at the ‘Freedom Campground’ near the racecourse just out of town, but to camp there you need to get a permit from the Visitor Centre and make a donation. They give you a receipt, but not sure if anyone checks this.

    When we arrived about 3pm there were about 15 vans in the large paddock, but by the time night fell, there must have been at least 50 or 60 vans there. We found a quiet site on the fence line away from most of the other vans and traffic coming and going. Toilets and showers are available, but no bins or dump point or water. Dump point is in the town at the back of the caravan park. We had plenty of water as we filled our water tanks at Innot Hot Springs, and I was able to do a small load of washing and everything dried very quickly. Dinner was barramundi and rice, topped with soy sauce and honey and sriracha. Very, very nice….

    We did a skype (Signal) call to Rhys, Zoe and Elliot in St Johns, Newfoundland, and Kim, Josh, Hayden and Taleah also joined in. It was nice to catch up with everyone, as we hadn’t had internet to speak to Rhys for a while.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Croydon to Karumba

    June 24, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Leisurely start to Saturday morning, for the 3-hour drive to Karumba.

    We don’t usually book when we travel, but I did book into Karumba as it is a long way to travel if we could not get a campsite, and is a very popular destination for travellers especially grey nomads who spend months up here. Also, there is no free camping in the area. I booked into the caravan park by phone, and we have a ‘premium’ site on the fence for 2 nights at the Karumba Point Sunset Caravan Park.
    Looking forward to some sun and sand and sea.

    We drove on the Burke Development Road, which runs alongside the railway line used by the Gulflander.
    The iconic Gulflander train runs an overnight return trip between Normanton to Croydon once a week, and it provides tourists with an historic journey through savannah country on original and unique termite resistant, heritage listed steel rails and sleepers. The bridges along the line were designed to be submersible, as the area floods in the wet season. Today the line exists as a tourist attraction and is said to be more of an adventure than a train ride. The passengers are treated to morning tea, trivia, wildlife spotting and an overnight stay in Croydon. We stopped at the Blackbull Siding which has been a refreshment stop for the Gulflander since the 1890’s and took a few photos. The train only travels on Wednesdays and Thursdays, so we missed it passing by, as today is Saturday.

    We had a brief stop on the way, at the town of Normanton. Normanton started as a port for the Gulf of Carpentaria's cattle industry, and it grew with the discovery of gold at Croydon. The town's greatest tourist attraction today is the historic Gulflander Train, and 'Krys', a replica of the largest recorded saltwater crocodile captured/shot in the world, in 1958 measuring 8.63mts. Back then you could shoot crocodiles, but crocodiles have been protected since 1971.

    Normanton is also famous for the Purple Pub, officially known as the National Hotel and partly relocated from Croydon. It is a typical country pub, the one claim to fame (which shows you don't need much to make you famous) is that in the past, a publican painted it purple. Now the 'Purple Pub', as it is known, attracts tourists simply because it is purple and stands out in the town's main street. It is one of the most photographed buildings in the town.

    We continued driving on the road for about 70kms to Karumba, passing wetlands with more brolgas that we have ever seen in one spot, arriving in Karumba just after midday.

    We visited Karumba about 2 years ago and stayed at the other caravan park, but we think this one is in a better location. We are close to the boat ramp and the small beach, an easy walk to the Sunset Bar, and also to Ash’s café down the road.
    Once we were set up and had lunch, we walked over to the boat ramp and beach and spoke to some people fishing from the beach. Looks like this is the place to throw in the line. We saw a young guy with a 70cm barra he had just caught, so ‘El Nofisho’ may finally have some luck here. Finger crossed.

    Karumba is a town that revolves largely around fishing. It is home to extensive prawn, mud crab and the barramundi fishing fleets. The Karumba port services the fishing industry and the local Century Zinc Mine.

    Australian band Goanna mentions Kurumba in the song "Every Passing Day", and The Red Hot Chili Peppers' song "Animal Bar" talks about the infamous Animal Bar in Karumba, which had a wild reputation, and at one time, was so wild and unruly that the furniture was bolted to the floor to prevent furniture-throwing. We had a burger at the Animal Bar on our last visit to Karumba, and have to agree, it did look a bit rough then. I do not know the songs but will have to google them.

    Luckily for us, there is no furniture throwing at the aptly named nearby Sunset Bar where we went for a drink.
    The place is filled with travelers, locals and families today. It is within easy walking distance from our camp.

    We walked down to Ash’s for fish and chips for dinner, then over the road to have a drink at the Sunset Bar. We shared a table and a few drinks with Gail, a solo traveler a retired policewoman from NSW who is camped next but one from us and chatted to her for a couple of hours and then we all walked back to the caravan park together.

    While at the Sunset Bar, I took a lot of sunset photos. I never get tired of sunsets, and the outback sky is unlike any sunset in the city. The deep reds, yellows and oranges changing by the minute have to be seen to be believed. Once the sun has gone down past the horizon, the sky becomes a soft blend of pastels and is simply unforgettable.
    I just keep clicking away trying to capture the beauty and the memory.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Karumba

    June 25, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    After a warm night and a restless sleep, we awoke and dressed and walked down to the local market, which is held every Sunday next to the Sunset Bar. We browsed but did not buy anything, as it was typical market stuff, nothing took my fancy, then back to the van for breakfast and a cuppa.

    Feeling energetic, we started on the 3.8km walk from where we are staying at Karumba Point to Karumba, past the mandatory crocodile warning and through the (dry) wetlands along the path, not really sure how far we would go or how our energy levels would be in the humid heat. We ended up walking the full length of the track, then stopped for 10 minutes to catch our breath and then walked back again.
    We felt happy with ourselves as it was a pretty good achievement walking nearly 8kms in the middle of the day, when we have not done this for quite a few years. We arrived back hot and sweaty and thirsty (we did take a small bottle of water with us) and recovered while having lunch.

    After lunch we drove the car down the track past the airport where there is access to the beach with the plan to fish off the beach. The tide was going out, and so were the fish. Last time we were in Karumba we brought a bait net which had not been opened, so Theo got it out and tried to practice casting to get some bait. He only caught 2 small fish and used them, but the bigger fish had already taken off with the tide. He said he is going to do a refresher on YouTube on bait net casting.

    There has been a vacant camp site between us and Gail, but late this afternoon, a massive caravan and vehicle pulled up and after a couple of attempts, they backed into the site. Six adults got out of the car, and a couple of swags have been set up under the awning. They said that they are staying for a week, so I am very happy that we are moving on tomorrow. Poor Gail is staying another 10 days and she is just in a small motor home, so I hope that they are not too noisy for her.

    Had a hamburger and barra burger for dinner then walked back along the beach trying to get the best sunset photo. Once again, lots and lots of photos of the magnificent sky and sun disappearing beyond the horizon.

    Tomorrow we are planning on heading west to a free camp at Leichhardt Falls, about 2 hours' drive. Talking to some other travelers, apparently the falls are pumping. Last time we stayed there, the falls were just flowing, but there has been some heavy rain recently.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Karumba to Leichhardt Falls

    June 26, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    So glad to pack up and leave the feral, noisy neighbours today.
    We said our goodbyes to Gail who said she wished she was coming with us. She said she barely got any sleep due to the neighbours. She said that they have spread out and taken over some of her campsite, and she said she had already been to the office to see if there is anything they can do, and she has spoken to them a couple of times. Poor thing, she was so upset. She said she had booked her ‘premium’ site on the fence about 12 months ago, and said she was ready to pack up and go home. She had a noisy air conditioner on one side and noisy neighbours on the other side. She said she has to keep her door and windows open as she does not have air conditioning, so can’t shut out the noise. We wished her well.

    Also said farewell to Dean and Roslyn on the other side who were also packing up and leaving, heading to Cape York. They have a YouTube channel ‘On Our Aussie Adventure’ so we said we will subscribe to it.

    We made sure our water tanks were full and emptied the loo, got a couple of supplies at the supermarket, then we were on our way.

    Drove through Normanton on the Savannah Way, stopping at the Burke & Wills Camp 119, which was the last most northerly camp of the ill-fated Victorian expedition where Burke and two others died. What were they thinking? February 1861 and 100 degrees, trying to cross through the mangroves heading to the coast crossing the continent from south to north trying to beat the South Australian team, then running out of food and water. Only one of the 4 in the party survived helped by local aboriginals. At least Robert Burke had a town named after him for his efforts (Burketown).

    We drove on through lots of road repairs due to heavy rain and flooding earlier this year, arriving at Leichhardt Falls about 1.30pm, and set up camp close to where we camped 2 years ago, on the edge of the cliff. There is so much water coming over the top of the falls in 4 different sections. Two years ago, there was a much smaller amount of water coming over the main falls area. There is a lot of sand removal, repairs and roadworks on the approach road and causeway.
    After lunch we went for a walk closer to the falls and sat on a rock and paddled and cooled our feet in one of the rockpools above the falls. When we came back, we chatted to our neighbour Bob and his wife Jo. Bob is heading the same way we are, so we may cross paths again. He is a paramedic from Newcastle on LSL.

    Barra on a bed of rice for dinner, no fire tonight, but we sat outside looking at the stars and listening to the water gushing over the falls, until we started to feel some insect bites, then came inside. Turns out that the bites were sandflies, we both got 3 or 4 bites, but it was not until during the night that they started itching and causing us grief.

    We were in two minds whether to stay a second night as it was such a nice site, but when we woke up, we decided to move on, as there is lots more to see, and we are nearly halfway through our trip.

    The track into the Leichhardt Falls camping area is so sandy and deep and rutted that the car was bottoming out even though we have high ground clearance. The idea is to just gun it and keep going, because if you stop moving, then you will sink down and get bogged. Another worry is that you may meet an oncoming vehicle. Luckily, there was another way in/out from the causeway, so we planned to head out that way, across the uneven, rocky ground.

    Unfortunately, we got bogged in the sand about 10 mts from our camp. Theo put the car into 4WD, but part way through, it must have slipped into 2WD and it was not going anywhere. It was only the car tyres that were bogged, not the van. Luckily some fellow campers came over, and with the use of our maxtrax, shovel and old mate’s winch, we were quickly on the move.
    Note to self for next time and anyone visiting the falls, is to come in from the causeway. It is rocky, so you do have to pick your way, but you won’t get bogged in sand.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Burketown to NT

    June 27, 2023 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    It was an uneventful trip to Burketown, where we refuelled and topped up the water tanks. Good on you Burketown for providing potable drinking water and a dump point for caravanners and travellers.

    Burketown was flooded a couple of months ago and residents were evacuated, but you wouldn’t know it today. A very quiet, sleepy little town, with basic facilities. Theo has fond memories of hooking his first barra off the bridge 2 years ago, but it jumped off the hook before he could bring it in and before I could take a photo. I just have a photo of his sad face.

    Before leaving Burketown, we stopped at the artesian bore. No swimming or dipping your toes here, as the water comes out of the ground at a very hot 68 degrees.

    Drove through the very long (approx. 100mt) water covered causeway across the Gregory River and passed quite a few empty cattle road trains heading the opposite direction. Also had to slow down while cattle were being herded across the road and saw a small herd of wild horses run across the road in front of us and head off into the scrub. We have not seen a lot of wildlife, such as kangaroos, but have seen quite a few dead cattle on the side of the road probably hit by trucks.

    After the eventful start to the day, we decided not to push on any further, but found a camp on the side of the road, at Walford Creek, between Doomagee and Hells Gate. The camp is close to the sealed section of road so there was no dust, and traffic stopped about 7pm and we did not hear another vehicle for 12 hours, so it was very quiet. Tomorrow, as the saying goes, we will ‘see you in the NT.’
    Wednesday 28th, and we are heading west into the Northern Territory. The road between our camp at Walford Creek and the border was not too bad, but it deteriorated and became very corrugated and dusty after that. We did see a couple of possible campsites a bit further on from Walford Creek, the hard thing to know when looking for a camp, is what is ahead. Note for next time that there are other possible campsites just a bit further on from Walford Creek.

    We lowered the tyre pressure on both the car and caravan (8 tyres), and it made a small difference. Upon opening the caravan, very little dust thanks to the dust suppression fan which forces filtered air into the van, pressurising the van, but we found that the cupboard under the sink had come open spilling the contents over the floor, and we also found 7 screws rolling around on the floor, but happy to report they all found a home later. Caravan manufacturers need to use longer screws.

    This has been the first full day of corrugations and dust and have passed several road trains heading the other direction and driven through quite a few creek and river crossings. Not as much traffic on this section of the road, as it is a very rough dusty outback road.

    Hell’s Gate Roadhouse was an interesting little green, grassy oasis on our journey today. We topped up our diesel at $2.75 per lt (cost $89.43), it did not cost much because we filled up our tank and jerry cans at Burketown the day before.
    The name Hell’s Gate originated in the early days of Gulf settlement when travellers moved west through the small gap in the escarpment. Police escorted travellers to the ‘portals of hells gate’ then they were on their own until they reached the safety of police protection at Katherine in the NT.
    In those days the lands were unexplored and considered dangerous, and it would well have seemed the gateway to hell. While at Hell’s Gate, we watched a helicopter take off with tourists from an Outback Spirit coach tour. We have seen the price of those coach trips, and all the work is done for you, but they are very expensive. Fantastic way to see the outback if you can afford it.

    After over 5 hours travel today, we were so happy to find a campsite and get out of the car and relax in the shade of the caravan. Our (free) camp for the night is on the Savannah Way, on the western high bank of the Foelsche River, just past the turn off for Seven Emu Station. There is one other camper here, so we are not alone.
    After a late lunch of a barra wrap and a beer, we went for a walk down to the river to wash the dirt off our feet, then sat watching vehicles drive through the water crossing. Spoke to a motorcyclist who asked us about the depth of the water, then watched as he wobbled and drove through the water avoiding the rocks with water lapping at his feet. I would imagine, not the most comfortable means of transport on this road with the bulldust and corrugations.

    The days are about 30-32 degrees, but the nights in the outback cool down to about 17-18 degrees, making it great for sleeping. We have taken the doona off the bed and are just sleeping with a top sheet and pulling up a light blanket if it gets cool during the night. It is a dry heat out here, and we enjoy this much more than the humidity of the coast.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Seven Emu Station to King Ash Bay

    June 28, 2023 in Australia

    After a great night’s sleep, we had breakfast then drove back through the Foelsche River and a further 25kms on the good, unsealed road to Seven Emu Station, arriving just before midday. We find that if we arrive at a paid campsite around lunchtime, then we get to enjoy the afternoon, instead of arriving late in the day and then leaving in the morning or having to pay for 2 nights to be able to see any sights.

    Seven Emu Station is 4th generation owned and operated by local aboriginal people. It is a working cattle station of 4300 square kms and they do offer indigenous tours, but at $100 per adult, this was out of our budget. I only saw one emu, still looking for the other 6!
    There are 5 huge private campsites, 4 of them on the cliff top and one on the rocky ‘beach’. Our campsite is No. 3 and has a great lookout high over the Robinson River. Cost is $20 per person per night, which is a little on the high side, but is an experience that we may never do again. After setting up camp and having lunch we drove down to the river to try a spot of fishing for an hour or so, ever alert for crocodiles.

    We enjoyed a relaxing afternoon, and when we returned to camp, where Theo was on unofficial ‘croc watch’ sitting on the edge of the cliff with his binoculars for rest of the afternoon. He said he did see a small croc but by the time he got his camera, it disappeared. We did hear splashes in the water and saw several fish jump.

    After dinner of spag bol, we sat outside enjoying the peace and tranquility of the vivid coloured sunset and the softening colours of dusk. Then when the sun has gone down, we never cease to be amazed at the magnificent clear, dark sky lit with millions of bright stars and the moon.
    The temperature was perfect and there was no flies or insects to bother us. Another beautiful outback night.

    We both had a great night’s sleep and woke when the sun came up. We gained half an hour in time when we crossed over the NT border but have not changed our watches or the van clock. After breakfast we packed up and it was not until we left Seven Emu Station that we realized the time difference when we checked our phones.

    Internet/WiFi /Telstra reception is our biggest hurdle. I really don’t mind not having it, but for purposes of contacting family, keeping up to date with news, emails, posting on Facebook or a blog entry, checking emails, weather and road conditions ahead, it would be convenient. We did consider getting Elon Musk’s ‘Starlink’ before we left home but by the time we seriously thought about it, we ran out of time for it to be delivered before we left. Other options we looked at were CelFi (which amplifies a weak signal), Zoleo (uses the satellite network to text message) or a satellite phone (at a price but can also be leased). We do carry an Eperb with us for use in an emergency (life or death) situation.
    The road conditions on the Savannah Way deteriorated after the NT border and got particularly bad at the western end before arriving in Borroloola, with lots of corrugations and bulldust.

    Borroloola is a small town, approx. 950 residents of which 76% are indigenous. There is high unemployment of 35% in the town, and we saw lot of rubbish and old cars dumped on the outskirts of town, unfortunately a typical outback aboriginal town. There is a servo/general store/takeaway, a school which a problem with intermittent student attendance and high turnover of staff, and small medical centre manned a couple of days a week, centrelink and not much else. However, there was a dump point of sorts and water to top up our tank. High cyclone fences surround most buildings. Not a very appealing little outback town. We would not choose to stay there.

    While in town, we checked our messages and my niece had asked if we could send a video message to my sister who was celebrating the successful end of her cancer treatment as her tumour had gone. Yippee. Good on you Liz. We found a nice backdrop of bougainvillea and recorded a quick message for Lizzy so she would get it on Saturday. Hope she likes our humour!

    We are heading to King Ash Bay for a night or two, which is approximately 50kms from Borroloola. The road was partly sealed, and the rest was a good, graded road. At the end of the road is the ‘King Ash Bay Fishing Club’ which has some powered sites and heaps of unpowered sites which are spread out along the McArthur River. As we don’t need a powered site we found a nice unpowered site on the high riverbank, with a family on one side and a couple from Lake Eildon on the other side. Cost was $30 for the night. There is a servo, a well-stocked small supermarket, a bar (the Groper Club) which hosts events, small golf course, a small airstrip, boat ramp, dump point, showers, toilets and drinking water. Quite well set up, and I believe that people come here and stay here for weeks and even months.

    A couple stopped to talk to us who also had a Goldstream pop-top caravan but they were camping in the powered section. This is only the second Goldstream we have met on our trip so far, the first one was on the road travelling in the opposite direction. After talking to us and looking at our van and our set up, Paul had ‘battery and solar envy’ and said to Jenny that they need to upgrade their system so they would not have to get powered sites on their trip. Small world, Jenny grew up in the same suburb as Theo, and Paul started his working life as a mechanic as did Theo. Jenny is on LSL also as a nurse at Peninsula Health and Paul has retired and they have rented out their home and they are on a 12-month trip around Australia. It was nice to chat to them. We also ran into Bob and Jo, our Leichhardt Falls neighbours, in the supermarket who are also staying in the powered section.

    We think that our 3.2 tinny is too small for this big river and the crocs that inhabit it, so have decided not to put the boat in. Theo is thinking that he will upgrade the size of the boat, and the motor when we get back.

    Another beautiful outback NT sunset over a river. We were told that there may be midgies or mozzies, but apart from one mozzie bite while watching the sunset, it has been lovely sitting outside, a nice gentle breeze that cools down at dusk. We came inside and had dinner of chicken and salad. From my seat in the van, I watched the end of the sunset and the sky change colour and appear to be on fire. Great view.
    Trying to decide whether to stay another night……    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Territory Day - King Ash Bay

    July 1, 2023 in Australia

    Happy Territory Day!

    Today is Territory Day. Territory Day recognizes the day the NT was granted self -governance from the Commonwealth Government in 1978, and tonight there is a celebration and theme night (Grease) at the Groper Bar, with fireworks. The locals, members and visitors are getting excited and planning their outfits for the night.

    It was a cool and cloudy start to the morning, only about 18 degrees. Brrrrrr.
    We walked up to the office to pay for the extra night, then got a couple of things at the little supermarket. When we got back to camp, we chatted to the neighbours, Lynlee and Pete from Lake Eildon, and a family camping in a tent on the other side with 3 kids from Mudgee, NSW. Some young people in roof top tents are on the other side of Lynlee and Pete, including one young couple on their honeymoon. We are lucky that we have nice neighbours around us.

    The sun eventually came out and we had a quiet day, enjoying the sun, pottering around, then had dinner of left-over chicken and salad, before walking up to the bar to join in the festivities. A lot of people had dressed up, but they were mostly members of the boat club or regulars who knew about the theme night and had prepared.

    We sat with Bob and Jo and listened to the live band play rock and roll music, and even had a little dance. More roll than rock unfortunately! We are very rusty as we have not danced for a long time, and with the added difficulty of dancing on gravel, wearing thongs, and a few drinks under our belt, it was good fun but not a pretty sight!

    The fireworks were great and lit up the sky for ages, probably scaring the wildlife and crocodiles. After a great couple of hours, we walked back home, but during the night, the wind picked up and we had a shower of rain. We think that it may be the edge of the rain band coming across from WA which has caused flooding on the Gibb River Road this past week.

    Sunday 2nd July

    Woke up to a cool morning (15 degrees). Staying another night here at King Ash Bay, but, where has the sun gone….? We are not used to this cold weather!

    It was a very cool day, and we brought out the long pants and long sleeves. The positive thing is that it was a good day to do some housekeeping, washing, clean out a pantry drawer that had a spill of a can of coconut milk somewhere on a rough, bumpy road. I had only opened the drawer to get a ‘Cup of Soup’ packet for lunch to warm me up and had not opened the drawer for a while. Some items had to be thrown out, and we cleaned up other jars and tins and repacked everything.

    We planned to drive up to Gove at the tip of East Arnhem Land, and we knew we had to get a permit to enter aboriginal land, but we were not sure if we had to apply for the permit first and then book a site or the other way around, so I rang the Gove Boat Club (one of only two places that you can stay), and was told that they only had 3 nights that we could book in for, in 2 weeks’ time, and to email them and they would get back and confirm the booking and include all the links and information we needed to get the permit.

    We were a bit disappointed as we hoped to book in for a week, but we have come so far, so 3 days is better than none. There is a possibility that someone may cancel, and we can stay longer. Apparently, they are booked up a year in advance. It will take us 2 days to get there, and then 2 days travelling back, but we have come so far. Waiting for the confirmation email so we can apply for the permit.

    Pete from next door has Starlink, and he has allowed us to piggyback and use it.

    Theo was so happy, I never heard a sound out of him for 2 hours while he was checking FB, emails and YouTube. It would make life on the road so much easier for communicating and researching, but I feel it also disconnects us somewhat from each other and from appreciating our surroundings.    Read more

  • Sommer DaysFar North Queensland & BeyondTraveler

    Southern Lost City, Limmen National Park

    July 3, 2023 in Australia

    Monday 3rd July

    It rained on and off all night, and we were so cool that we actually thought of putting on the diesel heater! In the Northern Territory! We had the doona and the extra blanket on the bed and we were very cozy and warm all night, but we woke to an overcast, grey morning of 14 degrees, and it drizzled on and off while we were packing up camp.

    Said our goodbyes to Lynlee and Pete. Lynlee was very keen to know how we liked Gove as they may do it next year. Exchanged phone numbers so we can let them know.

    Short drive on dirt, then the rest on bitumen to Borroloola where we topped up the fuel tank ($36) before continuing, heading west, then turning off before Cape Crawford to the Limmen National Park where we will spend some time.
    We have 11 days before we need to start on the road to East Arnhem Land.

    Checked our emails in Borroloola and our travel permit for East Arnhem Land had been approved. The online application said to allow 10 days, and I only applied for it yesterday. 24 hours. Very quick service.

    We travelled on the Nathan River Road for a few hours before passing the turnoff to Lorella Springs. We would have loved to have gone there, but it is closed for the 2023 season. Hopefully we will get there another time. The road was in fair condition, not as bad as the Savannah Way from Hells Gate to Borroloola, but it did have many corrugated sections, however the rain from last night had settled most of the dust.

    The National Park entry sign said that camping sites had to be booked online, but we have no internet reception, so will just chance it. Everyone we have spoken to said just rock up, and they have not booked, and no-one checks. Fingers crossed.

    Our first camp in the Limmen National Park is the Southern Lost City campground, where there are 5 campsites and a toilet block. We pulled into Site No. 3, hoping that no-one will arrive saying that they have booked this site.
    We did not unhitch, but did a quick set up then went for the 2 and half km walk around the impressive rock formations that are named the Lost City. Massive pillars and rocks perched on top of each other, some on an angle and fallen, which were created and shaped by weathering about 1500 million years ago.

    Saw a black headed python on the side of the walking track, which was not bothered by us. It was a lovely walk in the late afternoon.
    Would look impressive at sunrise, but not so sure we will be awake that early to see it. No-one arrived with a booking on our site, and we noticed that there was one other site also vacant.    Read more

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