Back to Bulgaria and its oldest inhabited town, on the rolling Thracian plains below the blue distant Rhodope mountains..Thracian then Macedonian (Alexander's dad liked it so much he named it after himself: Phillipopolis), Bulgarian, Ottoman, briefly even French, finally back to the Bulgars...Huge scale Roman remains and a picturesque 19th century old merchant town quarter (our fabulous hostel was one of these houses), plus a buzzing fairy-lit artists' quarter of bars, cafes, restaurants..a delightRead more