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Indochina 2023
  • Dean Parham
  • Dean Parham

Indochina 2023

A 21-day adventure by Dean Read more
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  • Trip start
    October 4, 2023
    Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1
    1Sue celebrates arrival in SydneySpecco fountain/light show in SingasOne of these is not made of stoneBuddhist hangoutFrom the night markets

    Chiang Mai

    Oct 4–6, 2023 in Australia ⋅ 🌧 21 °C

    Hop skip & jump to get here. Flew to Sydney the night before -- perhaps presciently as many domestic flights were cancelled the next day due to strong winds. Flew to Singas for another overnight. Then the 3 hr flight today to Chiang Mai. It's Thailand's second biggest city but much smaller than Bangkok. Humid. You don't have to go far if you want a coffee shop, a tailored suit, a temple, a massage parlour or a currency exchange. The travel group seems pretty good -- so far at least.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    Our tour leaderThe group takes in a spot of lunch1A couple of devotees

    Still in Chiang Mai

    October 7, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 25 °C

    Morning excursion was to an elephant park. It was billed as a sanctuary/training ground but was more like elephants doing tricks for humans and for tips. Not quite my cuppa.
    Afternoon excursion was to the Wat Phar That Doi Suthep Ro Ma Ha Wi Han; a.k.a Doi Suthep temple. It is touted as the most significant temple in northern Thailand. It was certainly lavish and opulent in a specco setting on a mountain top.
    Food here is great - fresh tasty and cheap.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    The lunch spot
    1Dean got ice cream headacheSue found the chilli dish a bit hot

    Chiang Rai

    Oct 8–10, 2023 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    We bused for about 3 hrs up to Chang Rai to stay the night close to the Mekong River so that we can get there early enough to catch a boat in the morning. We stopped on the way for lunch at a great place by a river. A walk in Chiang Rai suggested it is not that inspiring. As in Chiang Mai you also don't have to walk far to find a cannabis shop. And of course we found a temple.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler

    A day on the Mekong

    Oct 9–13, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    An early start -- 4:45am -- to prepare for the bus ride to the Lao border and the Mekong. One thing. The coffee has got a lot worse. At the hotel it was like diluted tar and on the boat it is instant with funky tasting water. Goodbye to the good coffee in Chiang Mai. Anyway, the boat trip was excellent. Long but very relaxing. It's pretty remote with a few villages dotted here and there. We stopped at one village and exchanged gawks with the locals. Lunch was served on the boat and, eventually, we tied up in a small town, Pakbung, where we were surprised to find we were booked into a good hotel overlooking the river. It's still rainy season here which means it's been raining and the river is high, fast and muddy. And if you want to know its pronounced Maykong not Meekong.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    It might be remote but they can handle a remote
    Corn is one of the subsistence cropsA wily purchaser surveys the offeringsThe temple in the villageCute. The kids helped the foreigners down the slippery slopeDense jungle forest with cleared bits for rice, corn & bananas. Also many teak and mahogany treesBuddhist shrine in the cave

    Another day on the Mekong

    October 10, 2023 in Laos ⋅ 🌙 25 °C

    Another early-ish start to get to our destination -- Luang Prabang -- before dark. We did about 380 km in 2 days by boat. Stopped at another village -- a little more prosperous with a monastery/temple. We also stopped at a cave which is said to be the spiritual home of the Mekong. So it was a bit like going to the MCG really.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    Tuk-tuk was the mode of choice
    The lads kept an eye on proceedings1Sue tried on some earingsRando building of architectural interestThe hotel (former royal hangout) where we are staying

    Luang Prabang

    Oct 11–15, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Luang Prabang used to be the capital of Laos before it was shifted (to Vientiane) due to vulnerability to attack from neighbours. One of its main features is French colonial architecture after the French were invited in around the 1850s to provide stability but also set up a lot of baguette outlets. We did a palace/temple crawl in the morning and finished at a weaving station where we also had a spot of lunch.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    One of Sue's photos

    Phonsavan

    October 12, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    The stories of the day were picturesque countryside and the state of infrastructure. We moved 300 km inland and into the mountains to Phonsavan. The scenery and the villages along the way were captivating. But it took us about 8 hours of driving. The road was shocking, even though half of it was the main road joining Luang Prabang and Vientiane. We went in 2 minibuses which were more nimble and able to dodge huge potholes and landslides and overtake the phalanx of trucks in spectacular fashion. Laos doesn't have a lot of resources for infrastructure. The Chinese are building stuff but that leaves a loan servicing burden.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    11

    Plain of Jars

    October 13, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 22 °C

    Seeing the Plain of Jars was the main point in coming to these parts. They are hollow cylinders made out of sandstone. They date back to the 5th century or so but are shrouded in mystery. Nobody knows who put them there or why -- perhaps as burial chambers.
    It was a bit of an ordeal to get to them, walking along a muddy path through rice paddies. One of our number unfortunately took a dive into the mire but apparently the rice was too raw to enjoy. Again beautiful scenery.
    Afterwards, we took in the remains of a temple and an ancient stupa, severely damaged in the American war. Apparently the Americans dropped 2+ million tonnes of bombs in the area, attempting to cut Nth Vietnanese supply lines. They are still trying to clear unexploded ordnance. The Plain of Jars had to be cleared.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1To those AFL fans, this woman is James Hird's motherExtracting the silk thread from the pupaDyes are extracted from things grown on the farmA decent coffee at the airport

    More jars

    Oct 14–18, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ⛅ 28 °C

    A trip to the markets started the day. Just about every living thing -- or part of a formerly living thing -- was up for sale. Too many wriggly things. And you would need to get in early because there was no refrigeration.
    We then went off to the main site of jars. Many of them. Some bigger than yesterday. In a field pocked by bomb craters.
    Then to a silk farm which was a mulberry-to-scarf operation. We got a fascinating tour of the place. Labour intensive but they train/employ lots. Or should they be more productive?
    After lunch we took to the skies for a short flight to Vientiane.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1A couple on their wedding dayNovice monks. 2 on the outer are 13. One in middle 18.Our hotel is thoroughly air conditioned

    Vientiane

    October 15, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    They say Vientiane doesn't offer a lot as a city. They're probably right. It has some monumental government buildings, some wide streets and some parks. We visited the victory arch, the golden stupa that is the symbol of Laos and a couple of temples. Yep, Buddha was there. Went for a walk and found a coffee shop and not a lot else.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1
    The girl has 2 caged birds to release as a symbol of something symbolicOnly one of these objects is ancient1The lunch spot. The Mekong is a million kilometres wide at this point2The river transport

    Pakse

    October 16, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    A very early start to catch a plane to Pakse in the south of Laos. This plane had jet engines but must have been one of the first to come off the Airbus assembly line. Once on terra firma we headed off to Wat Phou (pronounced 'Poo' which was apt given the ailment experienced by one of our number). It's a Khmer temple constructed back in the 11th C to one of their gods. The Khmer empire was pretty grand at the time and they constructed about 4000 temples. Only 3999 to go.
    After lunch beside the Mekong we were ferried over to an island to our hotel. Nice pool.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1

    Rest day

    October 17, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Nothing much happening today. Nothing organised. Just chilling on the island resort. A walk through the local village and massages all round. Tough I know.
    The Lao are pretty laid back. Apparently the French said the Vietnamese plant the rice, the Cambodians watch the rice grow and the Lao listen to the rice grow.Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    A tradie's extension cord provided by the Lao rapper OH&SWhisky known as Lao Lao. Basically moonshineA Lao rapper provided life vestsThe old train trackThe old rail bridgeThe smaller cascade

    Somewhere else on the Mekong

    Oct 18–20, 2023 in Laos ⋅ ☁️ 29 °C

    We drove downstream for about 1.5 hours and went to cascade in the river. It stretches over 10km meandering across the river. Because it made the river impassable, the French built a railway to transfer freight to/from upstream. The old track has been made into a road/cycle path. It's the best bit of road in Laos for sure.
    We had a boat ride to an island for a nice lunch and then another cascade.
    Back on the bus and a drive to another island to our hotel. And wouldn't you know it -- it's by the Mekong.
    Two observations. 1) The south is more prosperous than the north. 2) Lao hotels use light globes with filaments that provide the same light as would come from one of those old push bike generators ridden by a frail grandma. Bring a torch or be prepared to fumble.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1

    Into Cambodia

    October 19, 2023 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    A long day in the bus today. A little excitement at the Cambodia border as, some days ago, Laos immigration did not stamp the entry of 1 of our number. So this lot weren't going to let her exit -- not without a long delay, lots of jabbering and a US$50 payment. USDs are used more here than the local Rial.
    We are now in a remote part of nth Cambodia in a hotel with the original Edison filament lamps.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1Tell-tale evidence of the lifting device used by the ancient KhmersThe outlook from the edge of the temple

    Preah Vihear

    October 20, 2023 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    So we are in this town Sa Em nearish to an ancient Khmer temple, Preah Vihear. It was built from the 9th C to the Hindu god Shiva. It was inaccessible in recent times as ownership was disputed between Thailand and Cambodia, with bullets and other things exchanged in claim. An international court ruled in favour of Cambodia. Still not many tourists come to see it. But with international funding assistance it is being restored. It occupies a spread of 800m on top of a mountain.
    2 Kmer temples down. 3998 to go.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler

    A travel ouch moment

    October 21, 2023 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    At some public toilets there is a fee. The fee was 1000 Riel or about 40c At the temple toilets. One of our number dropped a note in the honesty box and realised later she had deposited US$100!! Ouch!!Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    1

    Siem Reap

    October 21, 2023 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Off to Siem Reap with a stop-off at an ancient Kmer complex known as Koh Ker. It was briefly the capital of the Khmer empire in the 10thC. There are still some structures in the forest made inaccessible by landmines. The star attraction is the pyramid shaped temple called Prasat Thom.
    We have been treated to a hotel in Siem Reap that is fresh, clean, modern and has adequate lighting no less. There were a couple of shopping expeditions (amongst the group) in the afternoon.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    Bayon templeBayon temple

    Angkor Wat

    October 22, 2023 in Cambodia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    So today we saw the biggie: Angkor Wat. It is regarded as the largest religious structure in the world. It was constructed in the 12thC, originally as a Hindu temple but became Buddhist as the king converted to Buddhism. Impressive in many ways, such as 5km of moat, extensive bas-reliefs and towers. Respect to the architects and admiration to the slaves who put it together.
    We also visited Angkor Thom, which was built later as a new capital city around the Buddhist temple, Bayon It was too hot so, to tell the truth, I didn't absorb much of the info about it.
    So I think overall we visited 5 Khmer temples out of 4000. We'll have come back another time to knock off more of the remaining 3995.    Read more

  • Dean ParhamIndochina 2023Traveler
    One of the quirky decorations in our Siem Reap hotel

    On our way back

    October 23, 2023 in Singapore ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We took off from a new airport about 50km out of Siem Reap. The Chinese built it and there is to be a new city out there, complete with a Disneyland.
    Now a 6 hr layover in Singapore.
    A good trip. A bit of a adventure in parts but good to visit some remote places and others on the tourist track that were not overcrowded. You get the feeling things will be teeming in years to come.
    The group was very good and made the tour a pleasure.
    The next one might be China next year.    Read more

    Trip end
    October 24, 2023
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