St Jean Pied de Port

I had scheduled a taxi to take me back to Bayonne in the morning to catch my 12:35 train to St Jean Pied de Port. Other pilgrims were already gathering at the station all with anticipation of arriving at the starting point of their Camino journey.

This was another beautiful train ride and I again took in the sites as we wizzed by the beautiful lush, green countryside. It only took about an hour to reach SJPP and upon arrival I noticed that the town looked just like the pictures I had seen. Cream colored structures with brownish-red shutters and trim, typical of European charm.

Not knowing where I was going, I was pleased that other pilgrims seemed to, so I followed them a short distance to the street where the pilgrims gather, and the Pilgrim’s office awaits the arrival of the excited pilgrims and are ready to share maps and other important information. Checking in at the Pilgrim’s office was first on my list as I knew they would place my first stamp in my Camino Credential.

Next up was waiting for Albergue Beilari to open, where I had pre-booked a bed. Albergues are what the hostels are called and I chatted with other pilgrims during my wait. I could feel my excitement building in anticipation of what lay ahead. I’d prepared for this day and here I was making it my reality.

Upon checking into Beilari I met Sue, a fellow pilgrim from the Camiga Facebook group. We realized that we had interacted in that group and were happy to make the in-person connection.

Flor checked us into Beilari placing another stamp in our Camino Credential. We learned that shoes, backpacks and hiking poles were not allowed in the rooms, so we slipped into our sandals, emptied the contents of our backpacks into individual plastic bins and carried them upstairs to our rooms. It reminded me of the days when my kids were in elementary school and we’re given cubbies to store their supplies.

Our room consisted of two sets of bunk beds made of red metal and two single beds located in an alcove with a curtain for privacy. Sue and I each grabbed bottom bunks while Ron and his wife Sue, from Australia, were told to take the alcove area. We all fitted our mattresses with the disposable, fitted sheets we were given, and inserted our pillow into a disposable pillowcase. We had access to a hall bath with a shower, a toilet closet and a single sink. Later two more women arrived and claimed the top bunks, so we now had a total of six of us in the room. Thankfully there was an additional bathroom downstairs that, we too, could use. The scramble for an open toilet, shower or sink, when you needed it, had begun.

I spent the next couple of hours walking through the streets of SJPP, getting euros from an ATM, and having my suitcase, that I’d be needing at the end of my journey, sent ahead to Santiago. The town oozes with charm and I attempted to capture some of it in photos.

I visited the Pilgrim store to purchase a Swiss Army knife to cut bread and cheese, and open wine, which I’d been told, are all necessities on the Camino. I also stumbled upon a canelé shop, which is a French pastry with a custard center and a caramelized crust. Being a favorite of mine, I purchased a small box of ten to enjoy later.

At 7:00 pm it was time for dinner, and all fourteen of the pilgrims staying at Albergue Beilari gathered for a group meal in the dining room. The evening started with an aperitif offered up by Joseph, Flor’s husband, and then he led us in a game of throwing an imaginary ball to each other to introduce ourselves. The games continued and we learned where each pilgrim was from and for some, why they had chosen to walk the Camino.

While, multiple countries were represented by the pilgrims around the table that night, I was especially fond of Steven, his wife Angela, her sister Genevieve and their sister-in-law Yvonne, all from Australia. They were walking together as a family affair and we’re all a joy.

The delicious dinner consisted of a pumpkin cream soup, a salad of shredded carrots and purple cabbage and greens, all vegetables fresh from their garden. Spanish tortilla, which is an egg torte with potatoes, was the entree and local red wine was included. The meal was finished off with a yummy chocolate mousse and we all wished we could have seconds. We all helped our hosts by clearing he table before heading back upstairs to get ready for bed.

You learn quickly that most Albergues have a curfew of 10:00 pm, and if you’re not in by that time, you will be left sleeping on the street. Beilari was no exception!

We had a big day ahead of us beginning our ascent over the Pyrenees mountains and getting a good nights rest was essential. Unfortunately, our sleeping room was so stuffy that night that I didn’t get more than 3-4 hours of sleep. Not exactly off to a good start, but my adrenaline did kick in, thankfully. 🙏🏼Read more