Portugal

mai 2024
Trekking the Fisherman's Trail, cycling and touring Portugal and Spain En savoir plus
  • 33empreintes
  • 3pays
  • 23jours
  • 611photos
  • 36vidéos
  • 9,9kkilomètres
  • 8,2kkilomètres
  • Jour 5

    Tour Stop 4: Obidos

    10 mai, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    Obidos is a walled city and aquaduct. We walked half way around the wall and took lots of photos before we ran out of time and had to meet Jose. It is a beautiful little town. Afterward Jose drove us back to Lisbon. He asked us to describe our experience today in 3 words. We came up with beautiful, architecture, comfortable, stories, history, incredible to name a few...
    We got back after a full day and just the best guide, Jose. We walked to get some groceries and dinner then early to bed for a very early start tomorrow to catch the Metro and train to Porto Covo for the start of our 4 day trek.
    En savoir plus

  • Jour 6

    Day 1 of Fisherman's Way Trail Trek

    11 mai, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We had an early start at 6:30 to catch the metro then our bus (2 hours) to Porto Covo and begin our 4 day trek. We are walking to Villa Nova de Milfontes today. Anthony and I had a stressful moment where our printed bus tickets did not scan. Luckily I had the receipt with our seat numbers, dates and they let us on. We arrived in Porto Covo, met our luggage transfer company and headed for a cafe to buy sandwiches for lunch and a quick coffee to start our day. We were all very excited and right away started to see some amazing views and scenery. We walked through ankle deep sand most of the day, with the exception of walking on the hard packed beach. We wore gators but over the day, the sand made its way through some of the mesh on my and Joanne's runners. Anthony and Priya did not have any b/c they had waterproof hikers. We had our amazing sandwich lunch at 10km. Highlights of our day included walking on the beaches, overlooking the nest of a momma bird feeding her young, watching some surfers catching waves, seeing other pilgrims like us walking along, the spectacular views and the flatter paths to the sides of the trail for easier walking through the sand and of course the conversation, photo ops and laughs of our day together. There was one man who I was passing and I said hello and he barely turned and grunted a strained hello!! He was a tired pilgrim to say the least. We were tired when we arrived after a 26 overall km day, 20km on the actual trail. Our hotel was very nice. After much needed showers we headed for dinner. On the way we bought beautiful and flavorful buns from a local couple to use for our sandwiches tomorrow. We found a nice restaurant in the main square with local Portugese options. We had a lively young man serving us. We enjoyed mojhitos and I had the Portugese cod made with shredded cod, onion and egg. It was very good. We watched a local woman sing and play guitar with young kids dancing and playing and people out enjoying the evening. We had a quick walk home as we were cold and checked out each other's rooms then some more stretching before bed.En savoir plus

  • Jour 7

    Day 2 of Fisherman's Way Trail Trek

    12 mai, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    We started our Mother's Day with a great breakfast at our hotel and added some of the meats and cheeses to our buns we purchased yesterday and wrapped them for lunch today. We headed for the ferry boat that they recommend to take that cuts off approx. 4 km of what is described as boring road walking!! There are so many ferral cats, but the ladies take such good care of them, feeding them sardines and they even had a little bunk house for them. Today we are hiking from Villa de Nova Milfontes to Almograve. We had a hot day mostly walking the beach, the deep sand on the cliffs, and through narrow stretches of low trees and varied foliage. We enjoyed our lunch on the beach before climbing back up to the cliff top main trail. The buns were so delicious...complements to the local couple🥰 We were making good headway today and got to our hostel early afternoon. It was really nice, newer and so clean. We freshened up and went out to find dinner. Again we saw a lot of cats and on one of the streets someone built a very cute cat house with food underneath in dishes ( see in a future post). We decided to try the restaurant of a man who gave us his food flyer as we were walking into town. It was a great decision. It was Nepalese food and we shared a variety of amazing dishes. The young man serving us was so pleasant and friendly. His dad was the man who gave us the flyer. We made recommendations in Alltrails because it was so good, inexpensive and the family was so friendly. We had a mango ice cream and shared that and then on the walk back to the hostel we got another ice cream with chocolate😋. Once back Anthony and I chatted with Jacob, Natasha and Vlad in Nanaimo. After our call we went to the main area and we sat and played cards and drank a tea before bed. It was a good day.En savoir plus

  • Jour 8

    Day 3 of Fisherman's Way Trail Trek

    13 mai, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We loved our Hostel. It was so clean and new and we had a great sleep. We got ready and were treated to a breakfast of fruit, yoghurt, beautiful mini baguette buns that were so fresh, meat and cheese, coffee and juices. We have a long day ahead of us as we walk close to 24 km to Zambujeira. We headed away after a short conversation with the lady next door who has a very friendly black cat and had been meowing so loudly as it walked along the fences outside our window last night! We had to walk past the town treatment plant on the way out and Anthony's comment, "Smell ya later!!" was fitting. We had a nice beach walk right away then climbed back up to the cliff trail. We were on a road for a bit which had a few warm up exercise stations. We had more sand walking for about 10 km. We saw actual dunes today. The conditions were cloudy to start the day, so the colors were darker and the sand redder today. The rock outcroppings were spectacular. We continue to see the beautiful flowers and succulents along the trail. Today we had forested areas with a lot of pine trees or bamboo and other low lying shrubs and trees. We came to a cliff area with steep steps down to the beach below. Anthony videoed for us and took photos as we descended and while on the beach. Here we had a bit of a drizzle but it didn't last long. We went inland to the town of Cavaleiro and walked around to look for food options. There was only one restaurant open so we stopped and enjoyed a lunch of pork, salad and some of the bun from our breakfast and a kombucha to drink. We saw a lot of locals coming in to eat as well. The food was very good. Joanne and I ate Anthony's little Nutella packs as our dessert getting back on the trail. This portion of the trail we saw the large storks and their huge nests on the outcrops of rocks. Some had their babies in the nests ready for food. The next portion of the walk was on dirt roads. It was very hot from this point on. It was 19 but felt like in the high 20's. Then more roads through bamboo and foliage on either side so not much to see. We came upon another bay with a momma stork and babies and from their we had a descent to a quaint fishing village in a bay and then a hill climb. From here we had a straight road walk for at least 3 km or so into Zambujeira. It felt long with nothing to look at. We just wanted to get to our hotel.
    Our Breathe In. Was amazing. Another really nice, clean place. We stretched, showered then walked around town to find a place to eat. Our food was delicious. Anthony had an octopus salad, I had the pork tenderloin with salad and fries, Joanne had the sole with veggies and potatoes and Priya had the quinoa salad. We all tried the Feta covered French fries out of curiosity!! They came just as I described🤭🤔 The presentation of our food was so nice. We had rain while we ate. It didn't last long. We all had a hot drink together with some chocolate back at the Inn. We are all pretty tired so an early night😴
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  • Jour 9

    Day 4 of Fisherman's Way Trail Trek

    14 mai, Portugal ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Today is our final day of walking the 4th and original part of the Fisherman's Way Trail. We got ourselves ready and walked to find a cafe for breakfast. On the way we passed a woman who is the street sweeper, cleaning along the side of the roadways with her broom and pan with her bucket on a roll cart. We had a huge omelet with salad and coffee. We walked to the start of the trail. Today we had an undulating trek with short steep ascents and longer descents. We were in sand and more dunes much of the day again. We had narrow paths through pine trees, through bamboo and shorter shrubs. The flowers and succulents have been along the entire trail all 4 days. Some of the paths were right on the cliffs edge and with the strong winds ( thankfully blowing into the bank side) made for interesting, very focussed moments. We came through some really muddy, wet sections as well today. Today at the start of the day we walked on the edge of a safari park where we saw some ostriches up close and in the distance some bison and zebras. The landscape along the ocean continues to present such beauty and different rock formations. We saw a few more storks, a beautiful arch in the rocks, agricultural land with greenhouses and crops, and fishing villages. We had a detour along dirt and paved roads to avoid an eroded area along the clifftop just before our lunch stop in a small town slightly inland.
    Our lunch today was soup for me and tomatoes, goat cheese and bread for Anthony. Priya and Joanne had a beautiful seafood rice bowl with lobster, class and prawns. We got back on the trail with a hill climb right away on the steep cliffside and then lots more sand walking. The end of the day we came onto the Praia (beach) de Odeceixe and walked down a road to the river which we followed on a paved road for several km into the small town of Odeceixe. We walked across the bridge and into town, stopping at the only 2 shops in the town. We have a lovely hotel with very kind hosts. We showered, stretched then walked to find dinner. We came to another small town square with 4 restaurants. Unfortunately we picked the one with a very arrogant owner/waiter and he was short on help so Anthony and I got our food first and ate it then several more minutes later Priya and Joanne got theirs. 3 if us tried the octopus and Anthony had pizza. The nicest part of the evening was enjoying the homegrown verbena tea made by our host. We had a taster of Joanne's carrot cake she bought and a piece of Priyas chocolate. The tea was so good and just what I needed. I seem to have a cold that just came on when we arrived.
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  • Jour 10

    Fisherman's Way Trail km & Route Markers

    15 mai, Portugal ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    The trail was an incredible experience and very well marked. The only marker I missed was the blue and green X's which indicated not this way! We cannot thank Priya enough for inviting us to join her on this adventure.En savoir plus

  • Jour 10

    Odeceixe to Lisbon

    15 mai, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    We are travelling from Odeceixe to Lisbon this morning via the Rede Bus. We enjoyed an amazing breakfast of scrambled eggs, ham & cheese, bread, fresh melon, homemade berry jam, orange juice and coffee. We said our goodbye's to our lovely Sol Mar hosts and walked.tothe bus stop. We had a 3 hour ride to Lisbon with one close call where our driver had to hit the brakes hard as he came down around a corner to a broken down car😬. Once in Lisbon we took the Metro then walked the rest of the way to our Airbnb to meet Andrew. We were in a spacious Airbnb with a washer so we did a bit of laundry. We had a snack of custard tarts before walking to meet the Windt's for our Lisbon City Highlights & History Tuk Tuk (electric)Tour. We had a chance to catch up and celebrate Tom and Priya's birthdays before heading out to tour the city.

    Stops included:

    Lisbon Cathedral-The Cathedral of Saint Mary Major, is a Roman Catholic cathedral. The oldest church in the city, it is the seat of the Patriarchate of Lisbon.

    Church of Saint Anthony ( Where St Anthony was born)

    Viewpoint of Portas do Sol and Santa luzia- this area had the old painted tiles of Queen Maria, what the Commerce Square originally looked like as well as the battle scene of the Portuguese taking power over the Moors. We also saw the "courting seats" which were used historically to maintain a respectful distance from a suitor.

    Castle district- this district takes you back to the middle ages with very narrow, winding and labyrinth-type streets. It resisted the earthquake of 1755.

    Miradouro da Senhora do Monte (The highest viewpoint of the city). This location has a stone heart on the wall: the heart ❤️ of Lisbon. It also has the stone obelisk that historically, women would touch in hopes of getting pregnant.

    Monastery of Saint Vincent-The Church and Monastery of São Vicente de Fora, meaning "Monastery of St. Vincent Outside the Walls", is a 17th-century church and monastery. It is one of the most important monasteries and mannerist buildings in the country. The monastery also contains the royal pantheon of the Braganza monarchs of Portugal.

    The National Pantheon took 285 years to complete from the 15th century to the 17th century. It was the first built outside the castle walls.

    Flea market in Alfama which is the site of the longest graffiti wall in Lisbon

    Alfama is the oldest and most characterful district in Lisbon. Historically is situated outside the castle walls and housed the poorest citizens. The monarchy inside the castle walls.looked down upon this district literally. Being a seafaring city, this area also housed sailors and dock workers. Now it is fashionable and trendy. Many of its restaurants have fados that are free). Fado is a music genre which can be traced to the 1820s in Lisbon, Portugal. We saw the original map of Alfama painted on Portugese tiles.

    Commerce square ( One of the biggest squares in Europe) is the location of the original home of the zmo architecture and where the King and his son were murdered. It is now the new entrance to the city ( It was destroyed by the earthquake, tsunami and fires of 1755.

    Pink Street - this was on Rua Nova do Carvalho and had multicolor umbrellas for a photo op. This used to be their Red Light District.

    Time Out Market (Famous Food Market of Lisbon)

    After the tour, our drivers dropped us off in Alfama to have dinner. We said our goodbyes to Priya here.
    We found a restaurant with a free Fado and the Windts, Snows and us had a really nice meal and visit together. I tried the seabass and Anthony had veal and water chestnuts. The Fado singers and musicians were quite good.
    We said our goodbye to the Windts and ubered back to our Airbnb.
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  • Jour 11

    Lisbon to Porto by train

    16 mai, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    We woke early to get ready for our 3 1/2 hour train ride to Porto this morning. We walked out of our Airbnb to find Lou's Cafe open just below us. Lou is our Airbnb host. I had s rambled eggs, bacon and toast with a flat white coffee(thinking of you guys Jacob & Nikki)👌Anthony had French toast and Andrew and Joanne had yoghurt, granola and fruit bowls.
    Lou said to contact him if we refer others as he can give better deals and has other Airbnb options. We ordered up our Uber who got us to Santa Appalonia Train Station in plenty of time to find our train and car. We had a smooth train ride and once in Porto ubered to our Boa Vista hotel. It is right on the ocean and the temperatures were much cooler here with winds and a bit of rain. We stored our bags until check in time and walked to find a pharmacy ( a bit of a stuffy nose settling in) and found the Amelia Restaurant. It had a picture of Amelia the dog. The story of the restaurants are based on Olivia and her dogs which you can read in the pictures.
    It was a most excellent lunch of burgers with an amazing curry mayo and Nase Goreng and flat white coffees. We checked in and had some much- needed down time for a few hours. Anthony, Joanne & Andrew walked to the grocery store for meats, cheeses, bread, crackers, beet hummus, guacomole, carrots, tomatoes, chips &cherries for a charcuterie dinner. Joanne picked up some beautiful desserts. We shared the chocolate cake and fruit & custard pavlova. To end our evening we booked a 3 hour walking tour of Porto for the morning.
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  • Jour 12

    Porto Historical Walking Tour

    17 mai, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    We started our day with a great breakfast variety in our hotel then took an uber to the start of our 3 hour walking tour. Angelica was our tour guide in Porto. My notes are a bit rough, but more to try to remember key bits of info or stories
    Highlights:
    St Francis church- gold leaf and tile

    In the 800's a soldier kept the Moors at bay w.King, so king gave him the land which is now a district of Porto

    Built cathedral as a fortress with 2 towers
    Order of importance:
    God
    Pope 
    Catholic kings
    Bishop ruled Porto
    Many Patron saints St Vincent -3 euros tower and view of city
    Story goes that St Vincent, on his pilgrimage, and their horse with the relics walked into this church and died so they thought that was a sign from God to stay in Porto.

    Public execution spot here also during dictatorship.
    Dictator 50 years in power brought it here to say watch out

    Over 49 churches

    Very Catholic

    Braga, also churches...all about praying

    Porto is know for hard working

    3-5 kg of gold in St Francis

    Port wine institute

    Camino trail signs w shell sun

    Old boats carry port

    Monastery above bridge

    Fado music is deep and melancholy. Deeply felt by the Portugese people and they sing about:
    Remember your sorrows, penas,
    which are feathers, and go away with the wind, but my sorrows stay with me. They are heavy.

    Santa Ana mother of Virgin Mary
    People come pray here

    In Gaia: 3 best things
    Wine houses for port
    Sunsets
    View of Porta

    Douro River with 2 bridges, one for king and one for the queen

    Portugese people are
    melancholy, were opressed through the long dictatorship
    They like to complain about everything.
    Glass not half full, its more like where's the water!!

    Henrique the navigator start of the Discovery Era - statue and on tiles in Sao Bento train Station

    Portugese chocolate stop- amazing
    Oils, chocolate, jams, olive pastes

    20,000 tiles hand painted in the
    Sao Bento train Station
    Tiles show Agriculture, wine, local festivals, religious processions
    Story around top is timeline from Roman Times to the arrival of the train
    Henry the Navigator 

    Most beautiful McDonalds in the world in the former Majestic Cafe
    This is where JKRowling wrote the first 2 Harry Potter books

    Francescina( means little french woman) sandwich of porto.
    A French man created it to see if Portugese women ( very conservative)would be more liberal like French women.

    2 churches side by side, one 16th century and the other 17th century separated by a 1.50m house in the middle. This was to avoid taxes because 2 churches could not share the same wall

    Sicamore trees in a park across from Justice Building
    Lady justice in front of justice building is not typical during dictatorship of Salazar. This one basically represented:
    "I see you, I don't care about justice and I might stab you first"...during dictatorship
    Typically, Lady Justice is blindfolded b/c she is fair, doesn't care your background or who you were, her scales represent fairness and she is not stupid, has the sword just in case!
    The park across the street has art installations which some say signify laughing at the Justice system???

    JkRowling connections, wrote 2 books in Majestic Cafe which is now McDonalds.
    Coincidences from her time living in Porto: Book store in Porto very similar to in her book and movies , griffin fountain, 2 churches joined by 1.50 m house, university students and cloaks, salazar character named after dictator

    Mayor wanted a 4 km stretch like Champs Elysses in Paris. Church was in the way and said no to moving it, so they built a building in front of that church with the same shape and one tower so you can't see that church at all now. That building is now the City hall!!

    St Clara Church - so beautiful
    100 to 150 nuns in cloister separated from public by gates with spikes on it. The public had to be at least 20m away from the nuns for privacy.
    Jacarinda wood used for the nuns chairs in the upper cloister is from Brazil. It is almost extinct so can be difficult to do restoration. They had an organ used to practice before doing actual masses.

    Gold leaf throughout the church was from Brazil. It was a tax payment to gov't who then gave some to the church

    They had images on their chairs to indicate which nun sat in each chair. Some images were made to remind the nuns how ugly the men were and as a reminder of their choice to become a nun. The images may have been requested by the nun because of an interest and images were chosen from medieval influence.
    The nuns' chairs were designed so they could rest their arms on the arms of the chairs and place the edge of their butt on image on the chair to rest and their dress covered this do they still looked like they were standing.
    The nuns would sing and the public thought it was the angels singing b/c they couldn't see the nuns above in the cloister.

    After the tour we went for lunch and tried the local Francescina dish. It was very good. We then visited the St Clara Church and returned to pick up some of the pastes from the chocolate shop. We went into a few shops here and there, walked across the top then returned on the bottom of the Luis I Bridge. We walked to the bus stayion to get back to our hotel in time for our meeting to get our bikes and information for the start of our cycling trip on the Coastal Camino tomorrow. Afterwards we had another charcuterie dinner together before heading to our rooms to pack and prep for tomorrow. A great day today👌
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  • Jour 12

    Extra photos of Porto

    17 mai, Portugal ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C