Day 31: Molinaseca to Cacabelos, part 1

Mileage: 15.75 miles
Altitude gain: 659 feet
Altitude loss: 971 feet
Weather: cool and cloudy in the morning; clouds and mountain fog burned off by mid morning. Hot afternoon!
Total mileage: 376.25

I’m about 3/4 of the way through this Camino! Nine more days after today - hard to believe. Today was a beautiful day! Walking almost 16 miles while tired isn’t exactly a rest day, but this was a peaceful (and blessedly mostly flat!) interlude between mountain stages. It was also a reminder that the sun comes up again after a hard day and we get to start fresh the next day.

I started a little late after my late bedtime and met up with Priscilla and Susie from Idaho. I walked with Priscilla for a while but then of course they pulled ahead of me. I walked into the city of Ponferrada before too long and enjoyed a bougie but delicious breakfast at a cafe. (Spaniards love their toast, and I can tell you now that huevos benedictinos are good on toast!) I also needed to find an ATM, a pharmacy (although those are everywhere), and a sporting goods store, so I left the Camino while in the city.

I had left my trekking poles in Molinaseca, so I found a sporting goods store. Mission accomplished AND I found a new long-sleeved shirt, which was very exciting. The one I’ve worn every day had developed a number of holes but I hadn’t been able to find a replacement until today. I feel like a new woman, although perhaps a true pilgrim would proudly wear their holey rags into Santiago!

After Ponferrada I walked through small villages and past innumerable gardens and laden fruit trees. This gave way to foothills and, it seems, wine country. I’ve been reminded of California wine country/Central Valley more than once on this trip, and today was certainly one of those times.

1. Looking back over the trail from Molinaseca.
2. and 3. Ponferrada has a Templar castle! I didn’t have time for a tour, unfortunately. Another city to revisit later.
4. They’re proud of the Templar history here!
5. Looking back at the castle from over the Río Sil
6. Much like Burgos, I walked out of the city center in a lovely park alongside the river.
7. Looking back over Ponferrada
8. Mural in Compostilla, just outside Ponferrada
9. The tiny Ermita del Divino Cristo in Fuentes Nuevas
10. I saw so much food ripening today! Cherries, apples, pears, figs, grapes, peaches, some of it in empty lots.Read more