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Korea & Japan

Ekim – Kasım 2024
  • Steph and Trent Travel
Steph and Trent hit Asia together! Okumaya devam et
  • Steph and Trent Travel

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    111

    Seoul, South Korea - Day 1

    26–27 Eki 2024, Güney Kore ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    WE ARE SO BACK
    The corporate shackles are off, all of our life possessions are packed into boxes and we’re off on another international adventure - feels like sabbatical 2.0!

    What we did:
    ⁃ Landed in Seoul at 4am! Overall incredibly smooth travel despite some general United ineptitutude. Due to some “miscommunication” they overloaded the plane’s weight by a few thousand pounds so we did 5-10 tarmac laps around SFO to burn off the “extra” feul (comforting announcement). After takeoff, we both teleported across the Pacific - great sleep and shoutout to Stephs foot hammock contraption.
    ⁃ Customs and transit was easy and if we happen to get arrested while we’re here, we apologize in advance for the menacing mugshots we both gave at customs. At around 10am after Steph sent her final email from the hotel lobby, the corporate drones were formally freed from our confines. Fresh off the office chair, we decided to walk almost 25,000 steps (I.e. 13miles) across Seoul. Might need to grab some ice tomorrow for our general soreness but well worth it! Incredible city - great mix of restaurants, culture, cleanliness, and greenery.
    ⁃ Started off with a quick bagel and wandered into the Jongno district. Super cool area of narrow walkways and open air restaurant packed with tourists and locals. We just kept doing excited laps around the area. Super enjoyable 2nd breakfast (only the 2nd most important meal of the day after 1st breakfast) before making our way to get cultured.
    ⁃ Changgyeonggung Palace was massive and wildly impressive - definitely felt like scenes from a movie. The gardens and ponds in the back were our favorite. Probably 20% of the visitors were wearing the traditional “Hanbok” garb, even the non-Koreans. It’s free admission and apparently a right of passage for koreans. Trent’s looking into bringing the men’s “Gat” to the bars back in Chi.
    ⁃ Never ones to do too much culture without food/drink, we found ourselves back in the neighborhood from before and enjoyed an incredible local lunch.
    ⁃ After our late lunch, we checked in, regrouped for a bit and headed out to the Myeongdong night market. Absolutely packed streets of stores with street vendors selling a variety of culinary delights: Potato tornados, fried crabs, squids, fish cakes, dumplings galore.
    ⁃ In order to muster ourselves to eat any of it, we setoff to find a bar. For a country that touts it’s drinking capabilities we could not find one! After 3 failed attempts we found a rooftop for some overpriced cocktails but a nice view of the Seoul tower and reprieve from the streets below
    ⁃ In lieu of trying a street food, we opted for going to a famous Korean noodle joint for an incredible dinner! Trent committed his first faux pas of the trip for putting the table seasoning in his noodles and for his general approach to eating noodles. Making fun of Trent is international.
    ⁃ After great 1st day we called it early and bed by 9pm

    What we ate:
    **Bury us in kimchi and dumplings when we die**
    - Bagel sandwiches/pastry at About Bagel (“NY style” bagels)…we were hungry and panicked…sue us.
    - Soha Salt Pond: first outing of Korean pastries - they were insanely delicious! We split leek cream cheese salted bread, matcha chocolate salted bread, and caramel salted bread with a variety of nuts on top. Trent’s fave was the leek and Steph’s fave was caramel. 2 salted butter coffees to pep us up for the day!
    - Damsot Ikseon: famous hot pot rice bowls - Trent got the steak version and Steph got the eggplant version. There were many contraptions we didn’t know how to use involving a “magic lamp” and boiling water. Great first true Korean meal!!
    - Myeongdong Kyoja Main Restaurant: only 4 things on the menu here - Mandu (dumplings), Kalguksu (Korean hot noodle soup), konggukusu (cold noodle soup), and bibim noodles. We got two kalguksu soups and one order of dumplings. Their kimchi here was spiccceyy and Trent almost died.
    - KOREAN CANDY FTW: so many candy options and all delicious (gummies, sour candy, etc)

    Fun facts:
    ⁃ Coffee culture is big - Seoul has more Starbucks than any other city in the world
    - We ran into some kiwis at our 3rd failed bar attempt who were also at a loss for finding a pub/bar. We had a good laugh and then extracted ourselves from joining them on a bar hunt.
    - Korean babies are cute as hell    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    111

    Seoul, South Korea - Day 2

    27–28 Eki 2024, Güney Kore ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    What we did:
    - Absolutely glorious 10+ hours of sleep had us fresh and ready for another day of gorging on Korean delicacies. Also woke up to find out THE HOOSIERS ARE 8-0!!! Playoffs here we come.
    - Grabbed a quick bagel to plan out the day before heading over to the Onion Cafe. Super long line, but well worth the wait! Stacks of delicious pastries and sat traditional style - shoes off crossed legged on the floor. Hadn’t sat criss cross apple sauce since playing the recorder in 5th grade music class
    - From there we wandered through the traditonal Hanok village embedded right in the middle of town. The polarity of the endless skyline of skyscrapers and the row of these little traditional houses made for a cool atmosphere. True to form, we grabbed a Korean craft beer in one of them. Big fans of the little rocky courtyards and fountains at the center of the traditional houses.
    - Tell you what, those 15th century Koreans really knew how to build a crib. We toured the 2nd palace (of 5 total), Changdeokgung Palace, and were equally as impressed as the original. They built this one as overflow for the original Emperor's buddies to live. Can’t wait for the Glenbard South boys to make it big and do the same for us.
    - We hadn’t felt much culture shock up to this point, besides how safe and clean the city is. That all went out the window when we walked into Gwangjang market. Pure pandemonium and we loved it. This building is essentially a massive warehouse with tightly packed rows and rows of little stalls & restaurants and throngs of people. Folks were peddling every concoction of food you could imagine, both appetizing and horrifying (r.e. blood sausages & fermented skate fish). After a good 4 laps to calm our sensory overload and identify the least sketchy shops, we worked our way through 4 delicious snacks (see food below)
    - Full beyond belief we walked over to a traditional tea house. After the chaos, the calm traditional music and ambience and warm tea was welcomed
    - We regrouped at the hotel for a bit (i.e. Trent falling asleep after previously claiming he had alpha'd the jet lag). We grabbed a great dinner of fried chicken and Terra beer and called it a night!
    - Day 2 was a big success! Another 20k+ steps day - we figure we’d have six packs by the end of this trip if it wasn’t for the layer of dumplings covering it

    What we ate:
    - Update from yesterday *bury us in kimchi, dumplings, fried chicken and Korean pancakes“ when we die
    - Cafe Onion Anguk: pastries, pastries, and MORE pastries! What didn’t we get at this place…see picture of our loot. Trent’s favorite was a chilli croissant sausage and Steph’s were the two items they are known for - cream cheese garlic baguette and pandoro. The baguette was a better version of a bagel, and the easiest way to explain the pandoro is that it tasted like snow if snow was a confection. Got some coffees to top it all off and sat on the floor in the traditional style Hanok cafe.
    - Drinks at Waoak: the struggle to find bars continue. No one drinks until 6pm apparently? Don’t they know that this is NOT how we vacation? It had started to rain so we found a cute little cafe in Hanok village that served booze - what a win! Tried some local Korean beers before heading to the next spot.
    - Gwanjang Market: We tried Korean pork scallion pancakes, vegetarian and kimchi dumplings, and hottoek (hot pancakes filled with brown sugar, cinnamon, and peanuts) - all so delicious! We were thrilled with our choices.
    - Namusae Tea House: traditional Korean tea house for happy hour. Trent got a hot ginger tea (what a zinger) and after a lot of research on what all the teas are good for, Steph got cinnamon tea. While trying to ignore the similarities, after a few sips Steph could not ignore that she was basically drinking hot fireball. Oh well - more tea to try in Japan.
    - Kyochon Chicken: exhausted after another day in our feet, we decided to check off another Korean food staple - fried chicken! After lots of research on Trents end, we found ourselves at one of their most popular chains! Garlic soy with their red sauce and a beer - these wings are better than what we get in the states! Korean fried chicken deserves the hype!

    Fun facts:
    - There are currently 87,000 fried chicken stores operating in Korea as of February 2019. To give you an idea of how big the number is, there are 44,000 Subway locations and 37,000 McDonalds globally!
    - Bakeries/baked goods were not introduced to Korea until the 1980s when the first Paris Baguette opened. Since then you can find a Paris Baguette on every other block and innovative pastries have become a staple for modern day Koreans.
    - Ah sweet Trent…very endearing as always, has no idea how to bow to people when being bowed to. One of two things can happen during these exchanges, 1) He panics and once realizing he needs to react, bows only after the person is no longer in sight, or 2) over exaggerates the bow (hands in prayer, bowing at the waist) to the point it looks like he could be perfecting his own dance move. Either way, this will be an area for improvement for Trent during our time over here.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    1
    111

    Seoul, South Korea - Day 3

    28–29 Eki 2024, Güney Kore ⋅ ⛅ 68 °F

    What we did:
    - Another great night of sleep! Woke up and turned on the 4th quarter of the Bears game - even across the Pacific this team has the ability to crush your soul. The the hail mary loss that will live in infamy. Honestly can’t even be mad it’s too comical
    - We headed out around 10:30, grabbed some flat whites and breakfast sammies. Steph got to checkout the flagship store of Skin 1004! Like a kid in a candy shop, Steph got to browse all her favorite korean skin care products and is bringing some loot back to Chi. Even Trent took a skin type test - apparently sunscreen is good for you.
    - We then took the cable car up (packed like sardines) to the top of Namsan (the South Korean needle tower) and wow is this an absolutely massive city. From the top we enjoyed gorgeous panoramic views of the limitless skyscrapers nestled between a ring of mountains - not bad Seoul!
    - We took a cab from there to check out the Itaewon neighborhood! Incredible lunch of traditional Korean dishes at a pretty famous spot filled with pictures of various celebs. From there we walked around the neighborhood and wow does it look fun - just blocks and blocks of bars and clubs. Felt like we were transported to a party city in Mexico or the carribean
    - This was 3pm on a Monday afternoon, and rightfully so everything was closed. Finally at 3:30pm an American bar opened up so we dutifully did our patriotic part and stopped in for a drink and, over beers, planned our escapades for later that night. Talking with the bartender our mood was quickly dampened though - there would be no partying in that neighborhood today. Two years ago (on 10/29) during a Halloween celebration, there was an accidental crowd crush in one of the alleys a block away and devastatingly 150 people died. We had seen reporters there earlier and this explained that. Freshly out of covid, around 100,000 partygoers coalesced in the neighborhood and the streets were so overcrowded that this particular alley unfortunately ended up as the site of the stampede. Locals are optimistic the neighborhood will slowly return to it’s prior revelry (and on many weekends this summer it has started to, just not the anniversary weekend) - it really is a super cool and fun looking area - but sounds like the incredibly somber mood will linger there for awhile.
    - Mood officially dampened in Itaewon, we grabbed a taxi and headed out to the Gangnam neighborhood to check out more of Seoul! The song “Gangnam style” now has a new meaning - the wealth of this area is mindblowing. Every shop is massive luxury stores, every car is luxury (we saw over 15 Bentley’s driving around in just a few blocks). We wandered around looking for a place that would serve us drinks as we felt suuuper out of place. Most places didn’t open until later that evening or would have cost $30+ a drink. We did walk the “K-Star” road, which is essentially their hollywood walk of fame for Kpop stars. Finally, we happened upon a Belgian bar that let us in for $10 a beer and all was right with the world again.
    - We had planned to go to a Korean BBQ spot nearby but after seeing it would cost the cumulative total we’d spent on food in the last 2.5 days in Korea - we opted to taxi back towards the hotel. The place we picked was perfect - they came out with a massive spread of Banchans and on the coal griddle in front of us cooked a great meal. We even dabbled in some Soju liquor to truly get the appropriate experience
    - Off to bed for our early flight. Seoul and Korea you were incredibly generous to us - cannot speak more highly! Incredible food and culture!

    Where we ate:
    - Starbucks & Blue Bottle - after trying and failing to find breakfast (breakfast that is not pastries) in this country, we wound up at two American places for coffee and breakfast. When you’re left with no option, I guess it’s safe to stay with some staples. Coffees at Blue Bottle and breakfast Sammie’s at Starbucks - far superior than Starbucks at home.
    - Maple Tree House: When in doubt, eat. At least that seems to be our motto here. We continue to gorge ourselves until we’re so full that we decide we should be eating again. Had 3 more Korean staple dishes on our list and knocked out two during lunch here - Bulgogi and Bibimbap. Other than Korean bbq, bibimbap is probably the most well known Korean dish in the states. Pair the bibimbap with a beer and a steaming tableside stove of marinated beef (bulgogi), onion, mushroom, glass noodles, and Banchan (small Korean side dishes served with almost every meal - kimchi, read bean paste, etc.) and that’s one delicious lunch!
    - Sam Ryan’s bar: two Korean Cass beers. Finally drinking during the day! No wonder it was a British/american bar…
    - Wangbijb: After opting out of a $200 KBBQ joint in Gangnam we ended up a local spot in Myeongdong. Great steak cooked on a table stove top with Banchan to supplement the meal. Tried Soju (Korean style sake) for our last meal. Didn’t have too much in order to avoid a hangover for a first day in Japan. Super fast and efficient dining experiences here have led us to nice and early bedtimes!

    Fun facts:
    - Red bean paste may become a pantry staple in our household from now on.
    - Gangnam style is the 5th most viewed song on Youtube with over $5BN views. Gangnam Style launched Kpop globally
    - The average 1500 sq ft apartment in Gangnam sells for almost $1.5M USD
    - The world renowned k-pop band, BTS, is currently on pause as the members are serving their mandatory two-years of military service.
    - “Gangnam Style” refers to a lifestyle associated with the Gangnam region of Seoul, where people are trendy and hip, and exude a certain supposed class. And apparently absurd amounts of money…we definitely did not fit the “Gangnam style”
    - Steph cannot drink Soju and will likely not be able to drink sake after all the underage sake bombing she did in college…Here’s to hoping there will be other alcohol options in Japan that she likes!
    - “finger hearts” are a K-pop picture pose (see Steph in front of skin1004 store) where you put your thumb and pointer finger together to form a heart.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan

    Kyoto, Japan - Day 1

    29–30 Eki 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 64 °F

    What we did:
    - 5am wakeup to catch our flight. Smooth travels and checked in by 2pm. Ayyyooo we made it to Japan!
    - Drizzling day and officially in the land of Ramen - we set off to get Steph her fix! Japan is full of these ramen shops with rows of little one person cubbies, library style, where you sit down to eat. This is serious business, there’s no messing around with pleasantries and conversation. Order your food, slurp some ramen and GTFO. It was delicious! Slurping is not just okay, it’s actually encouraged as a sign of respect - Ha! take that Mom!
    - After lunch, we wandered around the large Nishiki market! 5 square blocks of shops and food stands - a bit more structured and less chaotic than the market in Seoul. We did pop into a few shoe stores for Trent as the almost 35 miles of walking in Seoul, on the remnants of his sabbatical shoes, wreaked havoc on the arch of his right foot. Some cushiony Nike’s later we were back in business.
    - We took a nap and then headed out for dinner. Such a cool town! All the houses are very traditional with a few meandering streams along brick paved walkways. Little red Japanese lanterns lead the way to rows and rows of small 6-8 table restaurants.
    - We finally landed on sitting at the counter of an incredible sushi restaurant. We were in awe at the chef’s meticulous preparation and even more at awe of the more adventurous westerners downing god-knows-what raw fish. After our raw conch debacle in Honduras, we’re a bit more tepid than we used to be. We successfully ordered and declared it the best sushi we’ve ever had! (With a specific caveat for the Norway salmon sashimi pieces).
    - We then found a cozy whiskey bar for some Japanese whiskey on the rocks. There had to have been hundreds of bottles of Japanese whiskeys on the shelves. Definitely closer to a skotch than a bourbon, but very enjoyable night cap. Off to bed afterwards.

    Where we ate:
    - Ichiran Ramen: Basically Japan's version of McDonald’s - fast ramen where you order from a machine, sit in individual stalls, and people serve you from behind a curtain. We both got the specialty tonkotsu (pork bone broth) ramen, which was absolutely delicious! If this “chain style” ramen is lower tier ramen we can’t imagine what the good stuff will taste like!! We enjoyed the novelty of sitting on the ramen stalls, especially considering we didn’t need to interface with servers, so definitely a low pressure first meal in Japan!
    - Sushi Sei: When in Japan, sushi is a must! After some very thorough research, we opted for a safer option (no omakase) at a local joint that served both tourists and locals alike. We sat at the sushi bar and ordered some of our typical sushi choices - salmon sashimi, salmon nigiri, tuna nigiri, and a tuna roll. All so so fresh, arguably the best sushi we have ever had! Trent was still hungry and tried ordering several more pieces including a mackerel nigiri! We will definitely be seeking out more sushi throughout our time here!
    - Japanese candy: after getting our fix in Korea, Steph’s sweet tooth was looking for more. Stopped at a quick mart to pick up some caramels and hi-chews. Safe to say we will be trying many more sweet treats here!

    Fun facts:
    ⁃ The Japanese drive on the left hand side. Also, they religiously follow walk signals and there is no jaywalking which really tested our patience.
    - In 2011 there were $6M visitors travelling to Japan, now there are $25M a year! You can really see the tourist influx in Kyoto and the locals are protesting it similar to Hallstatt, Venice, and many other global tourist hotspots.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    1
    1

    Kyoto, Japan - Day 2

    30–31 Eki 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 68 °F

    What we did:
    - Woke up around 9am after another refreshingly long sleep, grabbed some quick American adjacent breakfast at the hotel and headed off for a day of temple tours. There’s lots of places to rent kimonos to tour the grounds, and a large portion of people did. We decided cultural appropriation wasn’t on the bingo card for the day so we stuck to the Nikes and western garb.
    - We started at the Kiyomizu-dera temple in the Higashiyama Ward. Definitely found the tourists!! But super cool neighborhood of shops/restaurants leading up to massive temples overlooking the whole city and surrounding mountains. Great care to preserve the nature around it too - we’re like 10 days early on the fall colors they advertise, but still gorgeous.
    - From there we headed to the Kodajji temple grounds, meandering through well kept gardens and cool buildings.
    - We then grabbed a late lunch and without question the best noodle based soup we have ever had. The japanese really need to show the Italians a thing or two on how to make good noodles.
    - After lunch, we took a taxi over to walk the “Philosophers path”, which was a wildly underwhelming stream ringed by leafless trees. S/O TripAdvisor on that rec 🤡. However, this did allow us to accidentally stumble into the Higashiyama Jisho-ji temple and garden grounds and that was incredibly worth it! Super cool temple, a bamboo forest and panoramic overlook of the city right at golden hour made for a great find.
    - Sufficiently cultured, we setoff to find a dinner spot. After almost putting a downpayment on our “balling out” meal for some Kobe wagyu steaks - Trent realized the $70 steaks were actually $70 per 2.5 ounces of steak… we quickly audibled to a more affordable conveyor belt sushi spot! The concept definitely hit suburban America in recent years, but pretty fun to do at an original spot. With a quick tap of the ipad in front of you, food launches down the conveyor belt to your plate.
    - From there we wandered through the dreamy Gion district - pretty much the epitome of the atmosphere you envision a traditional Japanese neighborhood to feel like. We came across the Common One Bar and potentially now our favorite bar we’ve ever been to (yes, lots of “best ____ we’ve ever had” declarations this trip). You enter through an old wooden door off the main street, down a long thin rocky path into this traditional courtyard of gardens/ponds. A man met us at the front and escorted us through a few hallways into this dimly lit back room, big wooden bar and stacks of Japanese whiskey. The bartenders were the ultimate craftsmans, taking insane amounts of methodical care for each drink. Stephs matcha brandy cocktail and Trent’s old fashioned were phenomenal. Great vibes!! Off to bed after another successful day.

    What we ate:
    - Hotel breakfast: Connected to our hotel is a Boulangerie. Quick eggs, breads, and coffee and we’re good to start the day!
    - Gokago: After getting lost, we determined we deserved a matcha break at a hip matcha cafe. Ordered their specialty matcha lattes where we were able to watch them prepare the matcha for us. They were delicious and gave us a nice boost for a full day of temple viewing.
    - Oudon Izakaya Mannaka: After being turned away from many lunch spots in the area due to fully booked reservations, we found this little gem on a side street. The most amazing udon noodles - we did not know we were udon fans until now! Trent got the specialty tsururu udon noodles with wagyu beef and pork. Steph got the “hot egg meat udon” (translated) where the noodles come in one bowl, broth in another, raw egg in another, and chilli oil and you mix them all together in one bowl and dip your noodles to eat it. Both were amazing!! We will definitely be chasing this dish/flavor the rest of the time here. We’ll see if this place was special or if udon here really just rocks.
    - Kaiten Sushi Ginza Onodera: We struggled to find dinner. We wanted to do izakaya but were struggling to find one that looks good. Izakaya simply translates to Japanese small plates, so when you search for izakaya, every izakaya place could be selling something different - burgers, sushi, weird fish stuff, teppanyaki, Italian food, etc. After doing a lot of research and not finding anything we were excited about, we set out to find this really popular gyoza spot that we had passed the other day. After trying two of the gyoza spots and finding that both had over 2 hour waits, we stumbled into a conveyor belt sushi restaurant..because why not! A couple of tempura chicken and sashimi nigiri later, we quickly stumbled our way back out, content on calling that a failure and licking our wounds at a bar. We found ourselves at the Common One Bar and the night really turned around for us!
    - Gyoza no Osho: After having a very limited sushi dinner, Trent needed sustenance so we found a fast food gyoza joint before heading to bed. Can’t forget the number one rule of vacation - feed Trent!

    Fun facts:
    - All Japanese bars charge a cover fee. They don’t want to increase the costs of drinks so they adjust the cover to inflation
    - Wagyu cows in Japan are purebred and kept on a strict diet of high-quality barley, wheat bran, rice bran, and corn feeds for 650 days. There are also strict restrictions on how many cows a farmer can have and the type of land they have to have access to. Due to its fattines, they only serve as small bites and not the US 12-16oz. Each cut it’s rated like a diamond, with a A5 Wagyu running almost $40 an ounce    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    1

    Kyoto, Japan - Day 3

    31 Eki–1 Kas 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☀️ 70 °F

    What we did:
    - Woke up and grabbed another American adjacent breakfast. Coffee shops are all that’s open as breakfast isnt a big thing here. Nothing really opens until 11am besides these cafe’s.
    - We caught the subway down to the big Fushimi Inari shrine, the head shrine of all others for Inari the god of rice. With 12,000 steps to the top, it’s a winding rock staircase through the woods with ornate red gates overhead all the way. Super crowded but pretty cool walk! We got to the main lookout halfway up and opted to descend from there as there aren’t any good views further up.
    - From there, we walked 20 minutes over to the Tofukuji temple. Another massive set of temples with expansive gardens. We enjoyed the calm and space away from the Fushimi Inari crowds. Doesn’t matter how many of these temples/gardens we see, we’ll keep enjoying them all.
    - From there we took the subway back to our favorite area, Gion, for some more noodles! This time we tried another ramen spot and were equally as impressed. They don’t seem to eat much green stuff here, but we would happily trade our daily subpar salads at home (and health) for these incredible noodles and broths. Just sprinkle some matcha in our waters and we’d live forever anyway.
    - After lunch, we walked the streets of Gion before popping into a legit tea bar for a flight of different tea varieties! We decided that we’re going to become those ppl who get way too into Japanese culture and make an entire wing of our house in the style of this place - bamboo walls, wood beamed ceilings and tranquil music. The zen is pumping through our veins - we’re loving the Far East man 🤘
    - Sufficiently buzzing off macha and zen, we grabbed a cab across town to the Arashiyama bamboo forest. We enjoyed walking the path through thick groves of bamboo trees. Catching it later in the day we were able to avoid most the tourists as well.
    - Our cab driver was so nice, it made us reflect on how truly friendly and welcoming all of the Japanese have been. Similar to our thoughts in Germany and Vietnam, it’s so hard to reconcile the atrocities experienced by our grandparents generation, relatively not too many years ago, with the warm hospitality and mutual respect we’ve experienced.
    - Putting history and geopolitics aside, we then took the scenic “Romantic train” (their translation not ours) through the Hozu ravine. About a 20 minute ride, we got to enjoy sweeping views of the early fall foliage in the valleys along the river.
    - We caught the subway back across town and regrouped to head out for the night. We hit a popular Izakaya for a variety of Japanese staple bites as we wanted to get a feel for this type of dining. Bar + small varied bites = Izakaya = Happy Steph & Trent
    - Sufficiently fed, we headed to another divey bar in the Gion district. While not as intimidating or special as the bar from the night before, we enjoyed the warmth and approachability of this one. Great bartender and superb matcha old fashioneds.
    - Got back home around 9 exhausted from another big day so we watched 30 minutes of Tom Cruise’s “Last Samurai” before calling it a night.

    What we ate:
    - Ogawa Coffee Kyoto Sanjo- quick breakfast of eggs, salad, lemon bread, and flat whites.
    - Musoshin Ramen: Small ramen shop with a total of 10 seats. Ordered at the kiosk and served at the table. Started with an appetizer of fried chicken- nice and crispy and not greasy. We then both ordered their signature ramen, broth was much thicker than the first ramen we had and the noodles were definitely better. Had spicy sauce on the table which we generously added to our bowls. Another great ramen experience!
    - Gion Kitagawa Hanbee: We were eager to have a traditional tea experience, so found a tea house in gion where we could try multiple teas by ordering a tea flight. They were all delicious! Each tea had a sweet treat pairing. We had matcha, green tea, roasted green tea, oolong, and black tea. Trent’s favorite was the roasted green tea and Steph’s was the oolong. The last sweet treat was a Japanese version of a cheesecake and it was wonderful!
    - Komefuku: After passing this place a few times, it seemed like it was an approachable izakaya that we could give a try! We ordered 2 Asahi beers, gyoza, a tuna wasabi roll, salmon nigiri, tuna nigiri, fried Camembert, fried wagyu that you dip into a raw egg, and some white rice! Everything was tasty but didn’t blow us away. Luckily the sheer quantity of food we ordered left us feeling sufficiently full at the end of the meal!

    Fun facts:
    - Fushimi Inari Taisha had around 10,000 Torii gates. The gates are maintained through donations from individuals and businesses, and each torii gate is engraved with the name of the business/individual who made the donation.
    - Oolong tea contains more antioxidants than a green tea.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan

    Kyoto, Japan (Osaka) - Day 4

    1–2 Kas 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    What we did:
    - Slept in (shocker) and ended up running late to our 1st activity (shocker). Steph and Trent hurriedly running late to something? Who would have thought? We had a 10am “Tea Ceremony” scheduled and Japan takes a page from the Brian Pohlman playbook and is a very prompt country. If you’re not early, you’re late (and respect/honor is everything) so shame on us
    - After a panicked taxi ride across Kyoto we arrived about 5 minutes late and fortunately they must be used to dumb American’s blowing it and were overly nice and allowed us to still join.
    - The “Tea ceremony” is a traditional ritual that involves preparing and drinking matcha tea in a special tearoom with the “tatami” floor (i.e sitting cross legged on a matted floor). The ceremony is a cornerstone of Japanese hosting and is very ritualistic. We were grouped with a couple of New Zealand Kiwis and our Japanese host was incredibly nice and quite funny. She taught us all the steps of the ritual and all the symbolic meaning behind it all - very glad we did it!
    - From there we headed out to continue our noodle journey. The spot was recommended by our bartender from the night before and a nice 30 minute walk back through the Higashiyama district. With reservations out for weeks, they fortunately had a separate room where you can quickly slurp your noodles at a counter. Another hit! Haven’t met a noodle yet that we haven’t liked
    - We regrouped at the hotel and then jumped on the subway for a day trip to Osaka! We debated going to feed the semi-wild deer in Nara, but decided we’d avoid the risk of rabies and that Osaka, as the 3rd biggest Japanese city, was somewhere we should hit. “You don’t come to the US, visit NYC and say it’s just like LA”.
    - The throngs of commuters on the subway were slightly intimidating, but we navigated appropriately and got through with no issues. So much cleaner and better structured than the blue line! We did slightly miss the second-hand crack fumes though.
    - First stop in Osaka was the large Osaka castle! With expansive grounds and a large moat around it, it fit the bill for a true castle.
    - After our nice hour long walk through the grounds, we grabbed a cab to the electric Dotombori neighborhood. This place was buzzing! Even with a steady rain, the blocks and blocks of restaurants, bars and neon lights were an onslaught to all of our senses.
    - Trent grabbed a plate of the famous Takoyaki (fried dough balls filled with Octopus) from one of the countless shops dishing them out. Not a favorite, but hey this country can’t shoot 100% from the line.
    - With the rain picking up, we tucked ourselves into a small 6 seat bar off one of the alleys - Bar Simon. Surprise, surprise at 3pm on a weekday the other 4 seats were taken up by other Americans. A couple from Springfield, IL and one from SanFran. Our Japanese bartender was hilarious and in broken english was learning french so he could go become rich in Switzerland “Japan doesn’t pay me enough”. Some great green tea old fashioneds and a couple more “neat” Japanese whiskeys later, we stumbled back into the neon lights of the street. Time to catch the subway back to Kyoto for our dinner res!
    - One of our favorite meals of all time (yes another superlative awarded), we thoroughly enjoyed the Teppanyaki style Wagyu! They set us up in our own private bamboo walled room, with a grill (I.e the Teppanyaki) for us to cook our steak. Never before have we had such rich steak that legitimately melts in your mouth - with the high fat content of a Wagyu sirloin it was truly decadent. Now we certainly didn’t have the highest rated “A5” wagyu as we went took a far more affordable approach ($50 total to split 7oz) and man it still blew away any steak we’ve had in downtown Chicago. Accompanied by some delicious rice, vibes were high and made for an unforgettable dining experience!
    - Did our own version of trick or treating on the way home by raiding the local mart for more delicious Japanese candy. Safe to say Steph’s obsessed. A bit more of Last Samurai before heading to sleep. Kyoto you were good to us!

    What we ate:
    - Hotel pastries for breakfast. This will probably remain the same throughout the remainder of the trip. Maybe Japan will be a breakfast country one day…
    - Yamamoto Menzou: One of the most popular places for udon noodles in Kyoto. We got there shortly after opening and the only reservation open for lunch was 3pm, so we opted for the standing room only, counter serve version of the restaurant. Trent got their signature udon and Steph got their udon with Japanese curry. The second meal of udon solidified our love for this noodle. This won’t be the last time we have udon during our trip here!!
    - Takoyaki Juhachiban: The famous fried octopus balls!! Trent could not convince Steph to try this. After stumbling into one of the most renowned food stands, Trent determined it was a must try! Shortly thereafter he determined that they were rather “mid”
    - Wagyuyakiniku Toku: A lot of wagyu steak (Steph had a stomach ache later because of how rich this steak was), some fried garlic rice, special matsutake mushroom rice (advertised as the king of mushrooms), French fries because why not, and very tasty miso soup.

    Fun facts:
    - Japan is typically known as an expensive destination to travel, largely because of the strength of the Japanese yen. The yen lost more than 20% against the dollar since 2022, prompting several rounds of intervention from Tokyo to prop it back up. Because of this, we have experienced great prices here, and in most cases our meals have been less than $20 and it’s been cheaper for us to be here than in Chicago. What a win for us, not great for Japan.
    - Kyoto was originally a planned target for the world war 2 atomic bombs but was later removed from the list due to its cultural significance.
    - Osaka is the former capital of Japan. Osaka is home to Osaka Castle, which was built in 1496 and played a key role in unifying Japan in the 16th century.
    - Zen Buddhist monks discovered matcha in China during the 9th century and began incorporating it into their meditation practices. The quality of matcha is determined by color.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan
    11

    Fuji Kawaguchiko, Japan - Days 1 & 2

    2–4 Kas 2024, Japonya ⋅ 🌧 66 °F

    What we did:
    Day 1:
    - Woke up around 7am to head to Fuji! Made sure to actually give ourselves some buffer which was very much needed in the chaotic Kyoto train station. Made it to our Shinkansen in time (i.e bullet train, which has a new meaning after Brad Pitts movie). Half way through our journey they paused service due to heavy rains… so much for high speed tech. Fortunately our 2 hour train was only 3.5 hours and we got into Mishima with time to connect to a bus to Kawaguchiko (we missed our original one but it was an easy swap out). A 1.5hr bus later we were in the mountain town at the base of Mt. Fuji! With the heavy rain and thick fog though, we could have been convinced it was Des Moines, Iowa. Accuweather predicting the rain won’t let up until after we would leave so that dampened the spirits a bit….
    - Not to be deterred through, we grabbed some quick snacks and signed up for a private onsen at the hotel! Onsens are traditional bath houses that use the famous Fuji hot springs and are key aspects of Japanese culture. The Japanese (like Europeans) don’t have the same hangups on nudity as America, so all of the public onsens require full nudity (separated by gender, of course). Being Americans with naturally ingrained hangups on nudity, we opted for the private onsen since the giant room full of old naked Japanese folks hanging out out felt a bit intimidating. Very much enjoyed our private relaxing onsen session as the hot waters helped soothe our sore legs/feet.
    - Sufficiently relaxed, we grabbed a taxi and had another incredible sushi experience! Massive servings of mouth watering salmon and tuna sashimi with a variety of small bite sides, some wine and highballs. The odds of us canceling our return flight home are increasing by the day. Our apartment is already packed up so should make it pretty easy for the family to auction things off.

    Day 2:
    - It’s a great day to be alive and a Hoosier!! Woke up in time to catch the 2nd half trouncing of Michigan state. 9-0!!! This may not age well, but Hoosier nation is convinced a playoff bid and run is imminent.
    - Even better, we opened our blinds to beautiful blue skies - not a cloud to be seen! We rushed up to the hotel observation deck to see Fuji before the forecasted rain came in. Absolutely gorgeous - amazing to see Fuji but also the ring of surrounding mountains and “5 lakes” at the base. Turns out our American accuweather app sucks and it was always predicted to be a perfect sunny day! At least our worrying on the rains made it that much sweeter to see.
    - Grabbed breakfast at the hotel and then rented e-bikes for what was an amazing day (10am-5pm exploring the town and scenery). Weather was incredible - a crisp 60 degree, bluebird, fall day in nature was just what the doctor ordered. We rode around the entirety of Lake Kawaguchiko first, stopping to enjoy the view many times along the way. We had another great noodle lunch, where we did opt to avoid the “horse meat sashimi”…..
    - After lunch, we biked over to the quintessential postcard view at Arakura Fuji Sengen Shrine! We really enjoyed the hike around as it has an incredible view of Fuji as a backdrop. Stephs attentive bug eyes identified the hundreds of MASSIVE, colorful and highly poisonous spiders that made webs along many of the roads/bushes we passed. Ignorance is bliss Steph, come on now.
    - After we returned our bikes, we grabbed some canned highballs (suntory whiskey sodas) and candy from the nearest mart. We enjoyed our haul waterside at a picnic table in Oike park, with stunning golden hour views of Fuji and the mountains over the lake.
    - Juiced by the highballs, we decided we had to give the “public” onsens at our hotel a try. We put on our robes, bid each other goodluck and went our separate ways. While wildly intimidated originally, it was actually super relaxing as the onsen had a perfect view of the sun setting over Fuji and everyone keeps to themselves.
    - Conquering both our fears of spiders and public shame, we headed out for a chill dinner of local counterserve fare. Exhausted from the day we headed to bed shortly after.

    Day 3 - Morning
    - Woke up around 8am to another embarrassing Bears loss. No further comment at this time.
    - Grabbed a hotel breakfast and walked over to take a cable car up to a scenic overlook. Early birds get the worm because there were hundreds of folks lined up for this thing. With a 12pm bus, we couldn’t wait so grabbed some matcha latte’s at a lakeside cafe and enjoyed the last scenic views. Grabbed our 1.5hr bus to Tokyo, enjoying the last vestiges of Fuji in the distance the whole way. The mountain actually seemed to get bigger the farther away we went.
    - Kawaguchiko and Fuji you were good to us! Great decision to stay further into the mountain towns than the usual, more accessible tourist town of Hakone.

    What we ate:
    - Breakfast: More hotel baked goods before heading to the train station.
    - Convenience store: After a longer day of travel, we got into the hotel around 3:30 and needed some sustenance before our first onsen experience! Most places we closed before opening for dinner at this point so we headed over to the local convenience store (very popular in Japan to grab food here) and got some snacks. Trent got some beef jerky and peanuts. Steph tried one of the noodles in cup (they have about 50 different varieties here) and a rice ball. We will be searching for more authentic noodles in a cup at home because they were sooo good!
    - Shaws Sushi Bar: only open for dinner for an hour and a half every night, we got in at the last minute. We ordered the tuna bowl and salmon bowls and it came with a bunch of different sides like miso soup, salad, and a gelatin dessert. Steph tried some Fuji wine (the first area in both Japan and South Korea where there seemed to be a wine presence) and decided that she did not need to have anymore wine while we were here! Sushi was so fresh and so good - another great sushi experience!
    - Breakfast at the hotel: weird mix of Japanese food (fish, meat, noodles) and some scrambled eggs and pastries at the buffet.
    - Hoto Tempura Wakana: Fuji has a specific type of hot pot noodle dish that they are known for called hoto noodles. Found a popular spot where we could try this dish and it was delicious! The noodles are massive and the serving size was huge. We determined it was comparable to a homemade chicken soup - except way more vegetables, flavors, and pork belly instead of chicken. We each got the traditional pork hoto noodle bowl with squash. Perfect for a crisp fall day!
    - Tetsuyaki: Kawaguchiko, much like many other mountain towns, have few dining establishments outside of the hotels. We found this quick dinner spot that specialized in Teppanyaki, which we haven’t tried yet since landing in Japan. We ordered some teriyaki chicken, okonomiyaki, and yakisoba. The best way to describe okonomiyaki is like a big savory, multilayer pancake. Here’s the wiki definition for you - Okonomiyaki is a Japanese teppanyaki, savory pancake dish consisting of wheat flour batter and other ingredients (mixed, or as toppings) cooked on a teppan (flat griddle). Common additions include cabbage, meat, and seafood, and toppings include okonomiyaki sauce (made with Worcestershire sauce), aonori (dried seaweed flakes), katsuobushi (bonito flakes), Japanese mayonnaise, and pickled ginger. Everything was quick, hot, and delicious! Trent got a whiskey highball to cap the night

    Fun fact:
    - Tattoos are banned in onsens as they represent the “Japanese gangsters”. So only tourists with small tattoos that can be taped over are allowed in.
    - Sadly, this was the 1st october in the 130 years of recorded history where Fuji did not have a snow cap. On average, October 3rd is the 1st big snow of the year. Global warming is increasingly scary and real
    - there were MASSIVE spiders (the size of the palm of our hands) all around Kawaguchiko and the paths of Mt Fuji (I guess not all that surprising considering we were in the mountains). Upon further research, the two spiders that we were seeing all over were the redback spider and the joro spider - both venomous and very dangerous. We’re so glad they decided to keep to their webs! 😅
    - There are two types of bears in Japan’s. In the Fuji area it’s the Asciatic black bear and up north, on a different island, there is a cousin of the brown bear, Ussuri brown bear.
    - For you bass fisherman out there, the world record largemouth bass was caught here at over 22lbs! The lake was full of fisherman and bass boats. Bass were introduced by sportsman and are harmful and invasive so the Japanese government has a program to try and eradicate them, despite the sport fishing industry that’s popped up. Seems like there’s an unofficial uno reverse card played here after all the Asian carp issues we’re having.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan

    Tokyo, Japan - Day 1

    4 Kasım 2024, Japonya ⋅ ⛅ 73 °F

    What we did:
    ⁃ Our bus arrived in Tokyo around 3pm and it was immediately apparent that we were in the biggest/most populous city in the world!
    ⁃ We checked in, showered and then headed out on the town! Our first stop was food, naturally. Our path brought us through Shibuya Scramble, the most populous intersection in the world where up to 4,000 people cross at once during the busiest times. Navigating the onslaught of commuters and tourists, we made it through!
    ⁃ Made our food stop at another very popular Conveyer belt sushi spot and this one lived up to the hype! Delicious array of salmon/tuna sashimi dishes! Started to lose our appetite towards the end while watching our neighbor on one side gorge on a very raw full prawn and our neighbor on the other slurp handfuls of whole, still scaled fish….
    ⁃ Satisfied and full we headed out for some scenic drinks in the fancy glass walled “Bellovisto” on the 40th floor of the Cerulean tower. With a large booth overlooking the bright lights of expansive tokyo, we each polished off 4 (5?) glasses of cabernet over great conversation - a mix of planning our future and reminiscing on our great trips over the years. The waiter just keep saying yes to bringing us another glass, so who are we to have self control?
    ⁃ After 3 or so hours and a sufficient buzz, it was time for some late night ramen and gyoza. Spurned for being American’s at the 1st stop we tried for gyoza, we found an amazing spot near the hotel. Half of Steph’s ramen *allegedly* ended up on her jeans, surely not a byproduct of the bottle + of wine dranken.
    ⁃ We raided another mart for more “hi-chews” candy and called it a night.

    What we ate:
    - Train snacks and granola bars. Spicy fried chicken and Kawaguchiko station which was shockingly fantastic. Trent went back for a second round of chicken and was laughed at.
    - Mawashizushi Katsu Seibu Shibuya Rotary sushi - when in Tokyo, sushi is a must! Tried out rotary sushi again, and this one was 10x better! Stuck with our classics - salmon nigiri, tuna nigiri, edamame, etc. Steph tried a new favorite - sesame tuna nigiri.
    - Oreryu Shio-ramen Shibuya-main store - after plenty of drinks, we decided to reward ourselves with some midnight shio ramen. First time we had the shio type ramen in japan. It was delicious! Trent's favorite so far. Steph loved it too until she spilled it all over her lap - no more drinks for Steph.

    Fun Facts:
    - To Steph's delight, Kit Kats are some of the most popular candy in Japan. There are over 300 flavors of Kit Kat's only available in Japan, with new ones being introduced regularly. Some of the flavors exclusive to Japan includes Sakura Matcha, Blueberry Cheesecake, and Hojicha. A Kit Kat is a symbol of good luck and prosperity and is often give to as gifts before important events such as exams, weddings, and new years celebrations.    Okumaya devam et

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  • Steph and Trent TravelGezginKorea & Japan

    Tokyo, Japan - Day 2

    5 Kasım 2024, Japonya ⋅ ☀️ 66 °F

    What we did:
    - Slept in, refreshed and ready for another day! Hangovers somehow don’t exist on vacation.
    - We grabbed a quick coffee and headed to the Shinjuku neighborhood for the day! This is the area of Tokyo that simply doesn’t sleep and you can find the streets packed with businessmen by day and creatures by night.
    ⁃ We waited in line for our first Wagyu burger right when it opened! Absolutely lived up to the hype - simply mouthwatering meat and some great teriyaki seasoning. Trent, per usual, got half of Steph’s burger, further solidifying her plentiful leftovers as the single best part of the relationship.
    ⁃ From lunch, we did some wandering through the streets. The sensory overload of neon lights and packed streets will never get old. Stopped in the famous Don Quijote discount store and another tea shop.
    ⁃ From there, we enjoyed respite on the grounds of the Shinjuku Gyoen national garden. This is the mecca for cherry blossoms in the spring. We voted these gardens less pretty than Kyoto’s though.
    ⁃ Walked over to the grounds of the Meiji Jingu temple afterwards. Absolutely massive forest with another cool temple made for a nice stop. Impressive that they have maintained such a large forest smack in the middle of the biggest city in the world.
    ⁃ Nearing 5pm, we headed back to shibuya where we pregamed dinner with some delicious gyoza and whiskey ginger highballs. Another superlative awarded for the hands down best gyoza we’ve ever had 🙌
    ⁃ From there we perused some shops and went to our reservation at another super legit sushi bar. Another superlative awarded here for best tuna sushi we’ve ever had - literally melted in our mouths. These awards are not given out easily, the food here is simply that good.
    ⁃ After dinner we went out for drinks in the hopping Golden-Gai neighborhood of Shibuku. This place is wild!!! 5 square blocks of tight alleys literally stacked full of 7-10 seater bars. Every bar is a different theme, some welcoming of foreigners others very much not. Cannot emphasize more how small and packed these bars are. We spent a good 30 mins walking the alleys, a bit intimidated, trying to figure out which one to go to. The point of the small and intimate nature of each bar is to force conversation among patrons so we wanted to find one that would work with our vibe.
    ⁃ Finally we landed on a welcoming spot packed with some Brits. We wedged our way into a corner spot at the long bar and spent an hour plus chopping it up with a nice Spaniard currently living in New Zealand. Always fun to talk to foreigners, we were entertained by his fear of going to America because of all “the guns”. He also was appalled at the US workweeks and lack of PTO - he certainly has a point, we don’t have siestas and 40 days off. But scoreboard buddy, check the GDP figures.
    ⁃ At this point we were edging close to midnight and decided to call it a night and head home. We voted this our favorite end-to-end eating day of the trip! Everything was a smash hit.

    What we ate:
    - About Life Coffee Brewers - corner coffee shop window. A couple of cappuccinos later and some Branson bread and we were ready to explore Tokyo!
    - Shogun Burger - Casual Tokyo burger chain selling burgers made of wagyu beef. As is typical in Japan, you order at the kiosk and then go to your seat for your order to be delivered to you. Two wagyu burgers and some fries really hit the spot after a few days of lots of noodles.
    - Gyoza Bar Niku-Jiru Totsan Dogenzaka Branch: after getting rejected from this place the night before, we gave it another try around happy hour and it was so worth it! Basement gyoza bar serving a variety of gyozas and highballs, known for their drinkable gyoza but our favorite ended up being their pork gyoza. This was the first time we tried a Japanese whisky ginger highball and we proceeded to each have two more. It’s safe to say that we were on a whiskey ginger highball kick for the rest of the trip. Vibes are high!!
    - KINKA sushi bar izakaya - this was the “nice” sushi spot we booked for ourselves in Tokyo and it delivered! Right in the middle of the center of Shibuya, a very classy joint on the third floor of a major restaurant street. we stayed safe with salmon and tuna nigiri and this was definitely the best tuna sashimi we have had the whole trip. We ordered another set of tuna sashimi it was so good! We also ordered edamame and lobster miso soup. The miso soup came with a lobster head sticking out of it and no spoon so you had to get uncomfortably close to the beady eyes of the lobster in order to drink it. Top it all off with some matcha old fashions and we had a great sushi night! Will be dreaming about that tuna for months to come.

    Fun Facts:
    - Tokyo, Japan has over 160,000 restaurants. This makes it one of the largest and most sophisticated restaurant markets in the world.
    - Every single street in Tokyo has multi level buildings with shops, restaurants, and living spaces. Most of the restaurants we would pass had 6-10 seats in them which made us wonder how they all stayed in business. Japan offers various government grants and subsidies to support small and medium-sized businesses, including restaurants, covering costs like rent, advertising, equipment, and employee labor, making it more accessible to entrepreneurs. Additionally, a lot of the restaurants are family run or deeply embedded in the local community.
    - Tokyo has the most Michelin-starred restaurants in the world. As of February 2024, Tokyo had 194 Michelin-starred restaurants.    Okumaya devam et

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