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Zauners Around
Zauners Around

Zauners Around

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  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
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    The Last Post

    May 31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    On our last morning we woke to our first rain in 10 weeks, quite fitting to match the mood in our caravan.

    The five and a half hour drive home gave us time to reflect on everything we had experienced on our journey together.

    Vibrant colours… endless bright blue sky, dusty red earth, white sands, turquoise waters and black night skies bursting with stars.

    Natural landscapes… wide flat plains, deserts far more rich in life than we had expected, rocks in an incredible array of formations, gorgeous gorges - each one unique and different, mountain ranges, beaches that could not have been more beautiful and flora ranging from spiky little desert bushes only the camels can stomach to the giant eucalyptus trees of the Flinders Ranges.

    First Nations culture and history… the incredible connection to and knowledge of the land for everything from Dreamtime stories to food, shelter, tools, weapons, medicines and decoration, and the destruction that white people have brought upon a big part of this land over a very short period of time.

    Animals… wild emus, camels, brumbies, eagles, goats and cows by the road as we drove, diverse and beautiful sea life along the coast and in the coral reef, equally awe-inspiring and terrifying crocodiles and jelly fish up north, and a wide range of reptiles and farm animals that we fed, petted, rode and observed with keen interest.

    And people… unique and wonderful campground hosts and tour guides, friendly campers at every stop along the way, and our own wonderful little family, the best group of people we ever could have imagined doing this trip with.

    But this post wouldn’t be complete without some stats:
    - 18,200km: 15,500km en route, 2,700km day trips
    - Average 256km per day
    - 70 nights in 5 states/territories: WA 40 nights, NT 15 nights, SA 9 nights, NSW 6 nights, VIC 1.5 hours
    - 38 campsites: 1x 4 nights, 7x 3 nights, 15x 2 nights, 15x 1 night
    - 2 scarfs crocheted, 2m of cord knitted, 4m of loom band cord created, at least 10 friendship bands knotted and countless books read (many multiple times)    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Can we take a baby giraffe home?
    The meerkats are always a hitSo many giraffes up closeLook at those eyes!Spots and stripesGiant, slow, incredible creaturesShort clawed sea otters who loved our company so much they cried out when we left!On zoo safariCheetahs looking out for meal

    Dubbo

    May 28–31, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    As we headed east towards Dubbo, we noticed the shift from outback to central NSW in the landscape, buildings and infrastructure, making us all too aware of how remote our last 10 weeks really had been.

    Once in town, we wasted no time getting out to Taronga Western Plains Zoo, touring the 6km loop not once or even twice, but three times over our two day visit - more if you include Timo and Andrea’s jogging tours. We even got to do one three hour loop in an awesome little zebra safari buggy! The zoo was massive, the animals were amazing (our family favs were the spider monkeys, otters and Galapagos tortoises) and the safari buggy was great fun.

    We also loved catching up with family while we were here, visiting Andrea’s cousin Dom and his family in their home for a wonderful evening together.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Living Desert sculptures
    Living Desert sculpturesLiving Desert sculpturesLine of Load Miners MemorialA rose for each deceased miner at the Line of Load Miners MemorialDeggy and Jenny, two of the four wild donkeys that roam around SilvertonThe famous Silverton Hotel, featured in multiple Hollywood moviesThe Mad Max II museum in SilvertonStocking up on sugar at the 1950s Bell's Milk BarSuper ice cream sundaeSickly sweet spiders and sundaesGreat climbing trees at our campsiteFeeding the highland cows at our campgroundFeeding the alpacas at our campgroundFeeding Johnny the Shetland pony at our campground

    Broken Hill

    May 26–28, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    Broken Hill, aka ‘The Silver City’, was founded in 1883 when silver ore was discovered in the area. It’s still a mining town today and while we were here we visited the Line of Lode Memorial, built in remembrance of individuals killed in the mines, a both moving and impressive sight, located at the top of a mountain of discarded mining rubble overlooking the town on one side and an active mine on the other.

    We enjoyed the Living Desert, a series of rock sculptures on a hill outside of town and a visit out to nearby Silverton, a dusty outback town with a population of 48 (not including the 4 resident donkeys that roam the town) and a famous pub which has featured in multiple Hollywood movies. Back in Broken Hill for the afternoon, we made sure to boost our sugar levels with milkshakes, spiders, ice cream sundaes and waffles from the 1950s Bell’s Milk Bar, where we chatted to a lady in her 70s who was sipping on a lime spider and had been visiting the milk bar since her childhood. Apparently it hasn’t changed!

    In the evening the kids were excited to feed animals yet again at our campsite, this time highlander cows, alpacas and a cute little shetland pony named Johnny.

    On our way out of town the following morning, we were stopped by police following a head-on collision on the road ahead and ended up camping out on the highway for 6 hours (feeling relieved to be alive) before we were again on our way east.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Loooking out to Razorback Ridge
    Driving into the Flinders RangesWilson ruins, one of many remnants of the pastoralists and farmers of the late 19th centuryHiking trails in Wilpena PoundTaking a break on the hiking trailsCamping at Wilpena PoundCute little rock wallabyAn emu daddy with his kidsWangara LookoutSnack with a viewMade it to the top of Mount Ohlssen BaggeBucking mountain goatsDriving through the rangesFollowing the ridge line to Razorback Lookout

    Ikara - Flinders Ranges National Park

    May 23–26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 17 °C

    Driving in amongst the hills and mountains of the Flinders Ranges really felt like entering a whole new world: one of pine forests, giant eucalyptus trees with massive trunks and more wildlife than we had seen anywhere else on our journey. Lots of kangaroos, emus, feral goats and different birds, but it was most exciting to finally see some cute little rock wallabies.

    Based in Wilpena Pound, we sampled the hiking trails, doing a 9km hike along the creek bed and valley and up to the beautiful Wangara Lookout. Andrea also added a solo hike to the top of Mount Ohlssen Bagge for an incredible 360 degree view of the Pound and surrounding mountains - and a bird’s eye view of bucking mountain goats, an exciting sight at the top of the mountain, but unfortunately unwanted as feral goats here ruin the waterways, landscape and food sources for native animals.

    We also headed out by car following scenic unsealed roads along the ridge lines and valleys of the area, but made sure there was time for a campfire in the afternoons and evenings, for playing games and warming up.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    The view in and around Coober PedyThe Blower, a mining truck used to suck dirt up and out of the opal minesNoodling for opals in town2Testing out the old shaft lift in Tom's Opal MineSelling opals for chocolate, lollipops and dollar coinsSelling opals for chocolate, lollipops and dollar coins1Josh with his prize opal pendantThe underground Serbian Orthodox ChurchCamping on our way to Coober PedyThe South Australian outbackOne of many eagles looking out for roadkill11Lake Hart, a beautiful salt lake south of Coober PedyStanding on Lake HartStanding on Lake Hart

    Coober Pedy and Outback SA

    May 21–23, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    In our guide book, the people of Coober Pedy describe their town as ‘unique’. We definitely agree and would perhaps add the word ‘dustbowl’ to the description. Founded after the first opal was discovered in 1915, Coober Pedy was once a booming town of 6,000, but now has a population of just 1,400 people along with hundreds of thousands (if not millions) of mining holes in the ground and just as many mounds of dirt in varying sizes. The town’s name is derived from the Anungu words Kupa Piti meaning ‘white man in hole’.

    During our short stay we tried our hand at noodling, attempting to find our own opal stones in some public mounds of dirt located in town. We did actually finding a rock with some potential - if we can just work out how to whittle it down without the help of any opal cutting tools…

    After sampling some delicious local pies, we went underground to visit a Serbian Orthodox Church and to take an exciting tour of a working opal mine, complete with an opal search. Josh hit the jackpot, winning his very own boulder opal pendant as the prize. The kids even got to barter with the mine owner, ‘selling’ the opals they found for chocolate, lollipops or a couple of dollars, and the complimentary scones and coffee / chocolate milk at the end rounded off a fun visit perfectly.

    Some other notable mentions for our drive through the South Australian outback plains include sightings of emus, an echidna, goats crossing the road, eagles feasting on roadkill and the incredibly beautiful Hart salt lake.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Uluṟu at sunrise
    First glimpse on the horizon1Uluṟu sunset1Uluṟu sunset1Uluṟu sunsetKata Tjuta with Uluṟu on the horizonKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkKata Tjuta Valley of the Winds walkOutback camel rideOutback camel ride121Uluṟu at sunrise

    Uluru and Kata Tjuta

    May 18–21, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    The distances in the outback are great and the drive out here felt longer than most thanks to much anticipation, but the moment we spotted Uluru on the horizon really was special (after the classic Mount Conner false spotting that is). Whether from a distance or close up, the rock is spectacular.

    First up was a bike ride around the base. Excited to be back on bikes after an 8 week break, we marvelled the changing rock faces as we rode the 11km loop and imagined the waterfalls and rock pools that would flow after rain and catch in the rock’s rivets, cups and caves. We visited the Uluru Kata Tjuta Cultural Centre to learn about the Anungu people and their Dreamtime stories, and then ended our day with drinks and canapés (aka snacks we pulled together from our camping supplies) as we watched a magical sun set over Uluru.

    Our 7.5km Valley of the Winds hike through Kata Tjuṯa the next morning was windy and cold (our weather app told us ‘feels like 0.5 degrees’ when we woke), but absolutely beautiful. Kata Tjuṯa, translated as ‘many heads’ may be less famous than Uluru, but the giant mounds of rock, the tallest of which stands 200m higher than Uluru, are arguably even more impressive to behold. After completing the hike, we were more than happy to put our feet up and relax on an outback camel ride. We’ve all fallen in love with camels on this trip and were excited to get to know our camel hosts, Lassy, Sunny and Nugget, while we rode through the desert.

    The next morning, we got up in the dark and headed to the sunrise viewing point to farewell Uluru and the Red Centre as the sun rose. And then we were on our way back towards the highway, headed southwards, inching our way closer to home.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Sheer cliff faces of Kings Canyon
    Steep hike inPeeking over the rim of Kings CanyonPeeking over the rim of Kings Canyon2Spotted some wild camels on the drive inSpotted some wild camels on the drive in1The drive in4Another beautiful sunrise

    Kings Canyon, Watarrka National Park

    May 17–18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 24 °C

    We had an eventful drive into Wattarka National Park, spotting not just brumbies on the side of the road this time, but also wild camels and dingoes!

    Despite a strong wind as we launched into the 6km Kings Canyon rim walk, the changing scenery along the track kept spirits and energy levels high. We hiked up a steep track and past rocky outcrops, then through bungle-bungle-like domes towards spectacular sheer cliff faces before dropping into the lush, green forest of the Garden of Eden within the canyon.

    After climbing back out to the other side, we all loved laying flat on our tummies to shuffle right to the edge of the canyon and peek down over the enormous sheer drop, recreating a photo taken of Timo and Andrea when they were here 21 years ago.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    1Ormiston Gorge
    Heading towards the West Macdonnell RangeSimpsons GapSimpsons Gap1Brumbies crossing the roadEllery Creek Big HoleOchre PitsOrmiston Gorge1Ormiston GorgeMaking tea in the billyWhittling some woodScones ready for the campfireScones almost readyRedbank GorgeRedbank GorgeOn our way back out of the West Macdonnell Ranges

    Tjiritja (West Macdonell Ranges)

    May 15–17, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    There is no shortage of beautiful gorges, walks and look out points to visit as you drive through Tjiritja, the West Macdonell Ranges which stretch 160km west of Alice Springs, and if you’re as lucky as we were, you also get to watch a big group of brumbies as they cross the road and trott off into the woodlands. The area makes up part of the famous Red Centre Way and we were surprised at the green scenery, not nearly as red as expected.

    We visited Simpsons Gap, Ellery Creek Big Hole, Ormiston Gorge and Redbank Gorge, all different and beautiful in their own right. Josh and Timo were the only ones to go swimming though, braving the cold gorge water. A walk to Ochre Pits was worthwhile to see large walls of white, yellow and red ochre, traditionally used by the Arrernte people to prepare medicines, for religious ceremony and for decoration. We also saw many hikers taking on the Larapinta Trail, ranked one of the world’s top 20 treks, which weaves through these and many more sights.

    Our woodland campground was great for afternoon fires in the cooler weather and Emily extended her baking repertoire to include campfire scones, scrumptious with butter and jam.

    Edit to add: After leaving the West Macdonnell Ranges we leant that just 2 days later our old friend Gill Fowler had run the entire 240km Larapinta Trail in under 50 hours as part of the West Macs Monster trail running event. What an absolute super star!!!    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Sunset at Undoolya Hill looking out over the West Macdonnell Ranges
    The road to Alice SpringsCrossing back out of the Tropic of CapricornThe scenic backdrop of the Alice Springs Desert ParkBird show at the Desert ParkBird show at the Desert ParkNina holding a barn owl at the Desert ParkNina holding a barn owl at the Desert ParkEmily at Emily Gap

    Alice Springs

    May 13–15, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 22 °C

    Alice Springs was built in a scenic little spot, hidden in amongst the mountains of the Macdonnell Range. The town has had a bad rap of late, with unrest as well as travellers’ stories of theft, however we felt safe here and loved our short stay - and not just because of our pizza night out at Alice Springs Brewing Co or because of the giant, super speedy waterslide at our campground!

    The Desert Park was certainly a highlight. We learnt about the six desert habitats that we recognised from our travels, saw lots of animals that had so far alluded us (like thorny devils, malas, ghost bats, echidnas and dingoes) and increased our knowledge of bush medicine and bush tucker, ruby salt bush berries being a favourite. The bird show was incredible and Nina absolutely loved having the opportunity to hold a barn owl. We also visited the Tjanpi Desert Weavers, an Aboriginal community organisation in which women come together to collect grass to create fibre art, and also share stories, skills and experiences. In the evening, we followed a 4WD trail up Undoolya Hill to watch a stunning sunset over the West Macdonnell Ranges, the next stop on our trip.

    Last stop on our way out of Alice Springs was Emily Gap, obviously a must-see! Known as Anthwerrke to the Arrernte people, it is a scenic gap in the mountain range just east of town which is the site of rock paintings depicting the story of the three caterpillar ancestral beings for the Alice Springs area.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Karlu Karlu
    Karlu Karlu sunsetKarlu Karlu sunsetKarlu Karlu sunrisePosing in front of the rocks Mama and Papa climbed on 21 years ago - no longer allowedKarlu KarluKarlu KarluOur campsiteQuirky little outback town of Day WatersQuirky little outback town of Day WatersQuirky little outback town of Day Waters

    Karlu Karlu (Devil’s Marbles)

    May 12–13, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Karlu Karlu, translated as “place of many round boulders”, appears out of nowhere when you turn off the Stuart Highway with its endless flat plains and arrive to see huge rounded granite rocks laying around as if dropped in a messy heap by a giant.

    It was here that we left the northern Australian heat behind us, packing up our fans and dusting off our sleeping bags, down jackets and fleece tracksuit pants, which came in very handy after our chilly morning walk to watch the sunrise amidst the Devil’s Marbles.

    On our drive in, we also had a quick morning stopover in the little town of Daly Waters with its quirky pub decorated in old clothes, signs and number plates, impressive collection of old timer planes, helicopters, trucks and cars, and saltwater croc named Kevin in a cage by the side of the road welcoming visitors.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler

    Mataranka

    May 10–12, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Here in Mataranka, home to the Mangarayi and Yangman people and made famous by Jeannie Gunn’s 1908 novel “We of the Never Never”, we spent lots of time drifting along the wonderful warm waters of Mataranka Thermal Pools and Bitter Springs, where we dived down spotting turtles in amongst the lily pads and weeds. We also hung around at another amazing campground, Little Roper Stockcamp with its tagline “Pat ‘Em Feed ‘Em Eat ‘Em”! More reptiles were passed around, more cute animals fed (this time squirrel gliders), there was playground built out of giant hay balls and campers could enjoy a daily breakfast cook up of tasty Johnny Cakes as well as various evening meals, complete with Saturday night murder stories told after dark by campsite owner, Des.

    Mataranka is also famous for being home to Nathan “Whippy” Griggs, world record holding whip cracker! After hearing glowing reviews, we timed our stay to coincide with his opening performance for the season. A fun mix of incredible tricks, whip cracking to music and some great NT jokes, Whippy certainly didn’t disappoint.

    Our visit ended on Mother’s Day morning and Andrea felt very lucky to be treated to a bircher muesli breakfast and some beautiful gifts from our travels, and 7 hours spent together in the car travelling to our next stop 🥰    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler

    Katherine

    May 7–10, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We farewelled Western Australia and crossed over into the Northern Territory on our way to Katherine, where we found ourselves a great little Farmstay, complete with not just classic farm animals (cows with a 2 week old calf, chickens, bunnies, a giant 260kg pig and 18 cute little piglets), but also saltwater and freshwater crocs, lizards, snakes, buffalos, emus and a gorgeous 4-month-old camel named Toey. In the afternoons, the kids loved wandering the farm with Mickie, the Farmstay owner, feeding and petting the animals, with Toey being the clear favourite.

    Despite being quite happy to hang at the campground, we did venture out to Nitmiluk National Park, on Jawoyn land, taking a cruise up Katherine Gorge, with its beautiful sandstone rock walls. We would have loved to canoe further up the gorge, but that wasn’t to be after a 4m saltwater croc had been found in the gorge just two weeks earlier.

    We also enjoyed soaking in the warm waters of the natural Katherine Springs, however the highlight of our stay was hiking out to and swimming at Leliyn (Edith Falls), where there was still so much water that we were able to float around and through the rocks in an exciting kind of whirlpool!

    On our way our of town, we stopped off for a tour of Cutta Cutta caves, taking in the beautiful glittering rock formations and learning about some of the Jawoyn and European history of the area.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    The halfway pool at Amalia Gorge
    The Cockburn RangeThe Pentecost River crossing on the Gibb River Road - no cars crossing as it was still closedA beautiful boabCooling off in the creek at Waggubun campgroundA lizard cooling off in the same creek!1Hanging around at Waggubun campgroundWaggubun campground from the topSunrise at Waggubun campgroundZebedee Hot SpringsThe Livistona Palms at Zebedee Hot SpringsZebedee Hot SpringsJosh may have found the smallest pool at Zebedee Hot SpringsZebedee Hot SpringsZebedee Hot SpringsJosh doing the rock jump at Amalia GorgeBreak on the way up Emma GorgeThe 35m waterfall at the end of Emma Gorge2The 35m waterfall at the end of Emma Gorge

    Gibb River Road from the East

    May 5–7, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    We continued through the Kimberley, enjoying the beautiful scenery along the Great Northern Highway, and passing Warmun Community where we had hoped to visit the art centre (recommended by Maartje), but found it unfortunately closed as it was Sunday. After dropping off our caravan at a beautiful bush campground run by the Wuggubun Aboriginal Community, it was then off to the Gibb River Road, along the scenic Cockburn Range, to see the Pentecost River crossing, the most famous on the Gibb. We would have loved to watch some cars as they crossed, but unfortunately the water was still too high after the late rains and the crossing was still closed.

    We kicked off the next day with a walk through rainforest-like Livistona Palms to get to Zebedee Springs, a series of warm rock pools connected by small waterfalls and fed by a thermal spring. We could easily have soaked in the warm water all day, but begrudgingly forced ourselves out to explore Amalia Gorge, where the water was colder, but the rock pool had an exciting rock jump that Timo and Josh had loved.

    The much anticipated Emma Gorge was our last hike (rock scramble) of the day, where we admired the sheer cliffs and had a great time being absolutely hammered by water as we swam under the 35m high waterfall in the cold gorge pool! It was also exciting to discover a warmer part of the pool, where a some hot spring water flowed through a crack in the gorge wall. All in all, quite the adventure for our last full day in Western Australia.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    The Bungle Bungle Range
    The Bungle Bungle RangeThe Bungle Bungle RangeCathedral Gorge in the Bungle Bungle RangeThe Bungle Bungle RangePalm trees on the way to Echidna ChasmThe entrance of Echidna ChasmEchidna ChasmEchidna ChasmEchidna ChasmLooking up to the light at Echidna Chasm54 river and creek crossings on the way - 108 when you count there and back!Fletcher Creek crossing - the longest and deepest of our river crossingsSpring Creek campgroundMaking damperMaking damper with love ❤️Making damperLooks pretty tasty!Roasting marshmallowsSmoke sticks

    Purnululu NP and the Bungle Bungles

    May 3–5, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We arrived at our Spring Creek camp with an afternoon to spare, so Timo, Emily and Nina whipped up some damper dough while Josh and Andrea set about making a fire and we spent the afternoon munching on damper, roasting marshmallows and enjoying some much needed R&R.

    The following morning we were up early to take on the 53km 4WD track into Purnululu National Park, our most adventurous 4WDing to date, including 54 river and creek crossings - 108 if you count both directions! The 1.5 bumpy hours were well worth it, for the beautiful scenery en route and because Purnululu really is special place.

    Once in, our first stop was the Bungle Bungle Range down the southern end of the park, made up of incredible orange and black striped domes, some reaching 200m above sea level. The sandstone domes are actually white, but get their orange colour from iron oxide and black colour from cyanobacterium coverings. After doing the walk into Cathedral Gorge, a huge cave nestled within the domes, we jumped back into the car to explore the northern end of the park. We were surprised at the stark difference in landscape in this area, with its palm trees and impressive Echinda Chasm, a narrow walkway through a cleft with rock walls on either side reaching 180m directly upwards.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler

    Mueller Ranges stopover

    May 2–3, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    With sections of the Gibb River Road not yet opened for the dry season and also a reluctance on our part to submit our Jayco caravan to the full perils of the bumpy 4WD road, we detoured south via the Great Northern Highway. This meant we got to drive past and stop over near the Mueller Ranges, a perfect place to think about all our Mueller family members ❤️Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    The colours of the Kimberley
    The Prison Tree, a giant boab near Derby and a sad reminder of our historyWindjana campgroundLate afternoon walk to the gorge try to spot some freshiesWindjana campgroundWindjana GorgeCroc spotting at Windjana GorgeCroc spotting at Windjana GorgeWe spotted 15 freshwater crocodiles at the gorge, this was the only good photo thoughDriving the Gibb - great conditions with a graded dirt roadAside from bad road conditions, cows and bulls present the biggest threat when driving the GibbThe beautiful Bell GorgeSwimming up to the waterfall at Bell GorgeThe hot walk back out to the car at Bell GorgeLeonard River GorgeQuick break before venturing into Tunnel CreekHeading in to swim through the pitch black cave at Tunnel CreekTunnel Creek cave poolsEnjoying some sunlight after swimming through the dark!Tunnel Creek

    Gibb River Road from the West

    Apr 30–May 2, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    On our way towards the Gibb River Road, we stopped off near Derby at the Prison Tree, a giant boab tree that was used as an overnight lockup for Aboriginal prisoners as they were led to the Derby Gaol.

    From there, we headed into what many call the true Kimberley, rough and rugged with its bumpy unsealed roads, river crossings, rocky outcrops and ranges, varied bird and animal life and signature boab trees. We were especially lucky to be here thanks to an early road opening for this year’s dry season.

    From our campground we marvelled the 90m high rocky cliffs of the Windjana Gorge, known for its freshwater crocodiles, which we we were excited to spot when we ventured into the gorge, swimming in the water and lazing in the sun on the banks opposite us. We also saw beautiful brolgas and groups of agile wallabies hopping by.

    We day tripped further into the Gibb, visiting the stunning Bell Gorge where we swam right up to the waterfall, and Leonard River Gorge, also beautiful, but much less exciting for the kids due to the long, hot walk in and no swimming.

    Our last stop before heading back out to the highway was Tunnel Creek, the most exciting of our gorge visits yet, which involved walking along and swimming through a creek in a completely dark cave, using headlights to find our way. Not sure whether it was the cold, deep water, the guide book that wrote of potential freshwater crocs in the cave pools or the fact that we were all alone in the cave, but we were certainly all pretty happy to make it out into the sunshine at the end!

    Tunnel Creek also has a more sinister story reminding us again of our history. It was the location that, in 1897, Aboriginal freedom fighter (or outlaw as described by white settlers), Jandamarra, was captured and killed.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    2Emily is on camel #3, Nina and Timo on camel #4 and Josh and Andrea on camel #5
    Camel ride on Cable BeachCamel ride on Cable BeachCamel ride on Cable BeachEmily's camel, Raj, looking rather proud of himselfCamel ride on Cable BeachZoro, Josh and Andrea's camel, coming in for a sniffCamel ride on Cable BeachEmily and RajNina and TanamiSo happy to see Maartje!Mocktails, dinner and lots of fun at Maartje's housePrivate tour of the Broome Royal Flying Doctor ServicePrivate tour of the Broome Royal Flying Doctor ServiceOne of three jets used by the Royal Flying Doctor Service in WAPrivate tour of the Broome Royal Flying Doctor Service

    Back in Broome

    Apr 29–30, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 32 °C

    We drove back to Broome for one more night to catch up with our good friend, Maartje, and to do one of Broome’s famous camel rides along Cable Beach. No swimming this time though, since the beach was closed again after a second croc visit in as many days!

    The camel ride was great fun. Each camel had its own entertaining personality and the slow, relaxed pace gave us time to appreciate the beautiful sunset over Cable Beach.

    After our ride and hundreds of camel photos, Maartje invited us into her home for tasty mocktails, a delicious dinner and a wonderful catch up. She works for the Royal Flying Doctor Service and offered to show us around, so the following morning we met up for an incredible private tour of the planes and patient care rooms. The only intensive care units in WA are located in Perth so the Royal Flying Doctors have a lot to do, moving patients from remote parts of WA down to Perth for treatment.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Pender Bay
    Camping with a view at Pender BayFishing at Pender BayFishing at Pender Bay3Trevally and queen fish for dinner!1Love heart rock at Pender BayCooling off in the Dampier Peninsula's only pool at Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm1Catching mud skippers during our cultural tour on Bolo's ancestral land2Collecting bombshells for lunch1Mud crabs!1Mud crabs!Mud crabs!Learning about local tradition - making ointment out of leaves and waterBush tucker - sampling a freshly picked bush carrotLearning about Aboriginal culture in Lullumb, the land of Bolo's ancestorsLearning about Aboriginal culture in Lullumb, the land of Bolo's ancestors1Incredible seafood cook up with Bolo and his family2Best crab we've ever eaten!!!Collecting berries2An incredible shell from Bolo's collection

    Pender Bay, Dampier Peninsula

    Apr 26–29, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    The Dampier Peninsula land is owned and managed by the Nyul Nyul and Bardi Jawi people and their ranger teams. We felt privileged to be welcomed as visitors to this beautiful part of the country, camping on a little cliff overlooking stunning Pender Bay, with its pristine blue waters, red cliffs, black boulders and aptly named love heart rock.

    We visited the One Arm Point community at the top of the peninsula and Cygnet Bay Pearl Farm, the home of world’s most valuable pearl (and also the home to the only swimming pool on the peninsula), but the absolute highlight of our stay was a 5 hour tour with Bolo from Southern Cross Cultural Tours. He welcomed us to his land, Lullumb, by way of a splashing ceremony in a fresh water stream and taught us about his family tribe, the significance of the land and the waters in this area, the six seasons of the year and how the bush, mangroves, beach and sea were used by his people to provide shelter, make tools and spears, source, grind and cook seasonal foods and make soap and medicines.

    Bolo also helped us to find our own food. We went mud crabbing, sought out bombshells with little slugs in them (big pointy shells that resembled ice cream cones), picked berries from the bushes and pulled bush carrots from the ground.

    Bolo introduced us to his family who helped with what they called a cook-up, but we considered a feast of mud crabs, oysters, cockle shells, bombshells and damper. Those of us not terrified of crocs went for a quick swim and then Bolo finished our tour by presenting some artefacts of his tribe and singing songs, using his boomerangs as clap sticks. His message was clear: we may all come from different places, but we can happily live in harmony together as long as we all share the responsibility of respecting and looking after the land. An exciting and moving learning experience that each of us will remember forever.    Read more

  • Zauners AroundZauners Lap of OzTraveler
    Rocks on the point at Cable Beach
    Brave swimmers at Cable Beach1Sunset at Point Gantheaume1We found a real dinosaur footprint at Point GantheaumeMalcolm Douglas Crocodile Park1Adorable 13 month old baby crocsAdorable 13 month old baby croc50 or so crocs waiting for a feedWho has a better selfie smile?Star the croc, showing off his big smileBuddy the black cockatoo

    Broome

    Apr 24–26, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 26 °C

    Apart from camels on the beach, we weren’t quite sure what to expect of Broome. The town delivered a successful hunt for real dinosaur footprints at Gantheaume Point, a memorable Anzac Day dawn service, stunning sunsets over the water, a beautiful beach and an exciting crocodile experience at the Malcolm Douglas Croc Park.

    … And relief that we all stayed safe… When we enquired about jellyfish and crocodiles at the tourist office at the beginning of our stay, we were told (i) although someone was stung at the beach this week, the water had cooled so jellyfish had moved on; and (ii) the beach water is so clear that we’d be able to see any potential crocodiles and exit the water in time! Emily, Nina and Andrea decided there and then not to swim, but when we got to the beach, it was so hot and there were so many people swimming that Timo and Josh went in after all. As it turned out, Cable Beach was closed twice in the following 48 hours after another person was stung by a jellyfish that afternoon and an actual saltwater crocodile was sighted directly in front of the surf life saving club just two mornings later!!    Read more

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    Eighty Mile Beach

    Apr 22–24, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    We picked Eighty Mile Beach for a stopover because it was just over halfway between Karijini and Broome (and, to be honest, there weren’t many other options), but we ended up staying two nights because it was so beautiful - a little green oasis with just about nothing else 350km north and 250km south.

    Here on Nyangumarta land, there is a massive 900m between low and high tide which made for incredible sunset walks across the low tide flats, spotting hermit crabs and sea snails and stumbling through sections of quick sand. We stayed clear of the water, having been warned of crocodiles, box jellyfish, string rays and tiger sharks and instead relaxed with our books, played in the sand, fished at high tide and kept an eye out for wildlife, specifically the agile wallaby.    Read more

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    Karijini National Park, the Pilbara

    Apr 19–22, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Having viewed mostly flat landscapes for the first weeks of our trip, we were excited to make it out to the heart of the Pilbara region, after a 7-hour drive inland, and be treated to actual trees, a beautiful series of rocky mountains and the reddest earth we had so far seen. We witnessed how iron-rich the area is when we dropped a magnet on the ground at our campsite and a big clump of red dirt stuck to it. A reminder, along with a steady stream of mining vehicles driving past, of the booming mining industry in this region.

    The real beauty of Karijini National Park lies in its many, varied gorges and they truly were gorgeous. With road works currently in progress to seal some of the 4WD tracks in the park, unfortunately only four gorges were open, so those were the ones we explored. On day 1, we started in Kalamina Gorge, a relatively wide gorge with a rocky track zigzagging across the water and ending at the beautiful Rock Arch Pool, where we cooled off with a swim. Our afternoon was spent in Joffre Gorge. Since Joffre Waterfall was dry (due to a few less than wet seasons in a row), we ventured down the gorge instead, swimming through breathtaking, long, narrow pools of water.

    Hamersley Gorge, our first stop on day 2, turned out to be our favourite gorge for its waterfall that wound down many layers of rock pools, each of which we loved swimming in. In the afternoon we visited Dales Gorge, the greenest of the four, boasting a waterfall that splashed down hundreds of levels of layered rock.

    We loved this stop, of course for the incredible gorges, but also for the beautiful, quiet National Park campground where we took in the sunrises and sunsets, listened to the howling dingoes at night (Nina even spotted one!) and searched for different animal tracks in the mornings. As an added bonus, Josh and Nina were awarded Karijini Junior Ranger badges for completing the tasks set by the park office during our stay.

    And as we left Karijini National Park on our way back to the coast up north, we celebrated the anniversary of our first month on the road!    Read more

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    Bullara Station

    Apr 18–19, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 37 °C

    On our way inland we stopped off for one night at the very highly recommended Bullara Station (thanks Charlie and Josie!), an outback station boasting a fabulous mix of antiquated station equipment, roaming farm animals, creative statues and fancy, rustic open air showers. And to top it off, we treated ourselves to a wood-fired pizza dinner with live music and a delicious breakfast of freshly baked scones, barista coffee and smoothies. Not bad for an outback overnighter, even factoring in the 37 degree heat and multitude of flies (sadly back upon us after a short fly break while at Ningaloo).Read more

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    Ningaloo Part II: Cape Range NP

    Apr 14–18, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    A good friend told us Ningaloo is her favourite place in Australia and that’s how it has felt over the last week.

    Camping at Osprey Bay in Cape Range National Park for part II of our visit, we started each day with a pre-breakfast swim, snorkelling with the beautiful local turtles and a range of colourful fish.

    We explored the recommended snorkelling spots (Turqouise Bay, Lakeside and Oyster stacks), all diverse and beautiful in their own right and also enjoyed a boat day trip out to Muiron Islands, just north of Ningaloo Reef, where the corals were softer and even more colourful.

    Apart from the turtles, which we couldn’t get enough of, the snorkelling highlights for us were reef sharks (3 of them!), giant sting rays, blue spotted rays, mosaics of colourful coral gardens, catfish, cuttlefish, giant emperor fish and brightly coloured parrot fish.    Read more

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    Ningaloo Part I: South of Coral Bay

    Apr 11–14, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 25 °C

    Ningaloo reef was the most eagerly awaited part of our WA west coast journey and it didn’t disappoint. After a rainy drive up north to our campground, during which we crossed over into the Tropic of Capricorn, the sun came out for our visit and we were able to spend our days driving along 4WD tracks to discover not just the beautiful reef north and south of Coral Bay, but also the giant poo-emoji-shaped termite mounds!

    Five Fingers was the definite highlight. We snorkelled and paddle boarded together for hours, marvelling blue spotted rays, colourful clam shells, giant blue starfish, diverse coral gardens and all sorts of reef fish. The ocean at Oyster Bridge was a little rough while we were there (probably more suited to snorkelling at low tide), but also amazing. We even saw a small shark swim by as we were gearing up; unfortunately it had gone by the time we got into the water.

    Looking forward to more snorkelling on our next stop further up the reef in Cape Range National Park!    Read more

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    Shark Bay

    Apr 9–11, 2024 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 33 °C

    A definite highlight of the trip so far, the billions of flies didn’t stop us from loving Shark Bay for its rugged landscape, spectacular colours and abundant sea life! Our upcoming Ningaloo campground booking meant we only had one full day to explore the Francois Peron National Park, but we certainly made the most of our time here on Gutharraguda and Wulyibidi land.

    First stop was a swim in the 40 degree artesian hot spring tub at Peron Heritage Centre. From there we lowered our tyre pressure and hit the sandy and incredibly bumpy 4WD trails on our way up to Cape Peron, the northern most point of the National Park and Skipjack Point. From the lookout points we marvelled groups of manta rays, a turtle and a number of sharks as they swam by.

    After watching the sharks in their element, what better next stop than a spot of snorkelling along the reef around the point at Gregories. And that’s exactly what we did. We didn’t see sharks, but lots of fish and the kids even watched a sting ray close up as it swam past. Our last stop was Herald Bight where the sand on the 4WD track was so soft that we managed to get ourselves bogged! With some digging and well placed max tracks we were thankfully out in no time and back bumping down the track.

    On our way of Shark Bay the next morning we stopped at Shell Beach, 15km long and 1km wide, twice as salty as the open ocean and home to more cockles than anywhere else in the world. Fragum Cockles are one of the few species able to thrive in this salty desert and the resulting lack of predators has allowed the cockles to grow to a population of billions. With a lifespan of just one to two years, Shell Beach is covered in dead cockle shells.    Read more

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    Murchison River Gorge, Kalbarri National Park
    Nature's Window, Kalbarri National ParkWalking to Nature's Window, Kalbarri National ParkMurchison River Gorge, Kalbarri National ParkMurchison River Gorge, Kalbarri National ParkKalbarri Skywalk in high windsMurchison River Gorge, Kalbarri National ParkNina crossing Hutt Lagoon, the pink lakeHutt Lagoon, the pink lake2Camping with the flies on the Murchison RiverRelics of the past at Murchison House StationA goofy goat at Murchison House StationAlpacas at Murchison House StationNoisy geese at Murchison House StationGalahs galore at Murchison House StationCamping on the Murchison RiverSpot the emus heading to the water for a swim to cool offPelican feeding time at Kalbarri inlet

    Murchison House Station and Kalbarri NP

    Apr 7–9, 2024 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 29 °C

    This is where we well and truly hit the heat (37 degrees!) and the flies (in the millions!). The fly nets and 12V fans had a great workout so that we still managed to enjoy camping on the Murchison River at Murchison House Station, a working goat station founded way back in 1858.

    We visited Kalbarri National Park, owned by the Nanda people, braving the Skywalk in gale force winds and marvelling the Murchison River Gorge and stunning sandstone rock formations from various (also windy!) look out points. Taking advantage of the car aircon, we drove down south to Port Gregory to see the incredible Hutt Lagoon, a pink lake with salt levels around 10 times higher than the ocean! When exposed to sunlight, the beta carotene created by underwater algae gives the lake its pink colour.

    The ocean inlet at Kalbarri was the perfect swimming spot to cool off in the afternoon. We were excited to spot two emus as they headed down for a swim in the ocean on the opposite side of the inlet.    Read more

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