• Day 4, Aug 28 - Stikkisholmur to Hvammst

    25 augusti 2024, Island ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Everything working well as we breakfasted and broke camp. Did a quick tour of the town with its modern church. Had the choice of getting to Hvammstangi by returning to Borgares via the paved road or going more directly by gravel road. We took the direct route and followed the 54 along the coast. The road was well-maintained and hard packed but with small potholes and corrugations. Some places bumpier than others and a few short, paved sections, usually at intersections. If we thought there were few farms on the way to Stkkisholmur, along here there were farms and fields but farther apart and smaller. Turned north on the 60 on asphalt and then east on the 586 to the Eriksstathir, home to Erik the Red, the viking famous in lore and father to Leif the Lucky who landed in Newfoundland. Erik lived here for ten years around 900 AD. The tourist site is a reconstruction of his sod covered house with period costumed docents who explained the history, living conditions, tools, and customs of his day. Leif was born here before rough-natured Erik was exiled for murdering a neighbor's slaves. He spent his exile in Greenland and returned to tell of a great land for colonizing. He returned to Greenland with a group of settlers and established two settlements. A few years later, Leif sailed out and discovered what is presumed to be New Foundland and stayed for a season or two.

    Back on the road north to Buthardalur for fuel after thinking about seeing the Leiferiksson museum (too pricey). Turned east climbing the gentle Laxa valley on sometimes gravel road. Over the crest and down into the Hruta Fiord. A little bit south around the bottom of the fiord, we caught the 1, the Ring Road, and headed north on pavement. The traffic was much heavier on the 1 but still light by our standards. The 1 is a better highway; smoother, wider, gentler curves. Cruised into Hvammstangi. Located the campground but went back into town to the Icelandic seal museum. Toured the museum, which tells of the seal life around the area. Got a few things at a grocery store then had great dinner at the restaurant above the museum - another guidebook recommendation. While waiting for dinner, I was able to get online for the first time since arriving and got some software I'd needed. Back to the campground to set up and watch the sunset. This campground sits high above the shore with a grand view to the west.
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