North to Williums Harbour

Storm has gone through, so there’s a little chance to head north with a solid wind behind us. Our plan it to up and gone by 8am but it takes 30 mins to unravel the 2 anchorage set up we are trying. 830 through the “Tickle” and out into open water once more. The iceberg that was in the entrance as we arrive has now broken up and been blown across the bay. Altogether much smaller. Ever cautious here we go for 2 reefs straight off. Which turns out to be the right descision we have a solid 25kts with gusts over 30 right behind us and we are flying along. Couple of gybes a bank of fog and some breakfast and the world is looking rosie. This is a 50 mile day and we have rolled off the. First 25 in just a few hours. As usual the weather doesn’t last long here and we are into a flat calm. Luckily for us a big berg has run aground near the shore, and it’s big. The biggest we have seen. It’s about 6 miles away but not far off track so no brainier to go take a look. As we get close its is obvious it is surrounded by little growlers. But it’s calm and clear so navigate between them for the best view. Absolutely stunning and never gets old.after a couple of spins round the beast we head toward Williams harbour and I prepare our evening meal on route. Timing must have been perfect as we are all finished eating as the harbour entrance comes into view. Williams Harbour is what is known as a resettle community. This means it used to be a thriving fishing town probably back in the 80’s but when fishing dried up the Government no longer wanted to provided services to these remote places. The services would be schools power sewage water ferry connection medical. So what happens the Government offers each householder 250k to be re settled and then the community no longer gets services. The community voted and they took the 250k. But they are all allowed to keep there homes but now if they want to live there they have to provide all of there needs themselves. It is now a summer only community of 50 ish people down from 500 in its hayday and when we arrive there are only 4. Cliff Gallagher takes our lines and welcomes us and the yarn telling begins. Barely tie the boat on and we are in the cockpit drinking beer and finding out what’s what. With the history Clif is 54 and born and bread here runs the fishing boat and winters in Goose bay. Then 2 more show up to the cockpit barring gifts. 1 whole salmon. 1 half pound bag of scallops “fresh”,some home blackberry smoked salmon fillets and 2 new utility knives. It was like Christmas and would have been vey boozy if the mosquito Luftwaffe hadn’t moved in. These people are so kind and so neighbourly couldn’t be more helpful.

We will have to wait here a few days while a big northerly storm moves through. And that brings colder temperatures. Walking, Eating catching up on paperwork all on the cards for the next few days
We both do the strenuous walk out to the headland and see so many icebergs passing by, a good reminder that we are in te 16 berg square and to be on our game tomorrow when the wind abaitsRead more