Witless Bay

Witless bay was always going to be the location high on the list to return to and it did not disappoint.
Weather forecast for today was sun cloud emoji (Newfoundland translation of this appears to be thick cloud/fog everywhere and sun unable to break through) but it’s time to head to Witless Bay. Normal style wind wasn’t ideal so we put in a tack through a foggy bumpy sea until it came around and were able to sail at a better angle.
Couldn’t really see anything so made little difference! There are several Atlantic white sided dolphins out and they come close enough to see them but didn’t hang around to bow wave as we weren’t going fast enough!

The marine reserve comprises of 4 small islands that total 2 sqkm set in 30 sqkm of protected water. We had sailed through the previous year and been amazed at the bird colonies it is home to and humpbacks that come to feed.
Day 1, we managed a loop of the Gull island as we arrive. It is coated in guillemots, black leg kittiwakes, razor bills and puffins galore. Every inch of exposed mud peppered with burrows. There are thousands of birds sitting at sea that scatter in an ungainly fashion as we approach. The noise! The smell!
Then the humpbacks appear as we reach the entrance to Bay Bulls.
We are headed for Bay Bulls for the first night as a safe place to tie up, on a floating pontoon adjacent to O’Briens boat tours. It’s a massive relief to find the 24hour stone crusher from last year has disappeared. Walk required - which somehow takes Austen directly to the Stoney Duck where there just happens to be a large TV screen and timed perfectly for England Panama game (not that he can concentrate as the lady next to him is demanding his full attention! (That’s not me!)

Day 2 , the start is grey and eerie with very little wind and we set out for Witless Bay, it does not disappoint. The humpbacks as we approach are in full play mode. So we drift very slowly and they come to play. A group of 3 hang around the boat for best part of an hour. They’re a little curious but really just up for fun and a bit of showing off.

It’s forecast to be a very calm couple of nights and we opt to spend the next 2 in Witless Bay. Contrary to the pilot book our anchor holds extremely well.
We arrive and walk ashore finding a path alongside the river then ask local about “capelin rollin’” and are told the NE beach is the spot and they should be in. So we stroll along, after a bit the same people pull up in their truck, to give us a lift! There a few fish we can see on the shore and some in the water. It proves better when re return the following evening, 8:30pm high tide and going dark. The 2 criteria that drive these fish to beach land on gravel shores, spawn and die. Locals collect some to eat and bucket loads for garden fertiliser. The processing plant for fish meal was just here but went early 1990s.

We’d a notion to go back to Gull Island at night to see if we can see/hear the leeches storm petrels that stay in burrows during the day and venture out after dark to fish. Fog says NO.

Day 3, sunshine & again very low winds and we sail quietly out of the bay and can see whales feeding all around us. Their mood is different today, when not feeding they’re “logging” I guess making the most of calm conditions.

3rd evening is extremely calm, full moon and clear - so we after a little rest we venture out on a loop of Gull Island that sits 4 miles out to see from where we are anchored. We startle a few puffins and one sleeping whale. Amazingly 90% of the resident birds are asleep - just kittwakes and gulls can be heard on the South side. I’m not sure if I’ve seen 2 petrels here, quick and bat like.
Around the North side and still not sure until the bottom corner - then their unmistaken call and rapid flight confirms their presence. Too dark to make out detail but lovely to witness.

It’s not an early start the following day - we need to make our way North again.
Venture ashore to the coffee house above the disused wharf before leaving, to find it closed! DIY breakfast it is.Baca lagi