Hooping harbour Paradise
3–4 сент. 2025, Канада ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C
Beautiful day, and enough time to explore some out of the mini fjords. On the est of the headlandFirst stop Hooping harbour. A hidden entrance and a hidden gem. It’s a deep fjord, not that big,but looks like the day the glacier left, apart from a couple of fishing cabins. On the right a pristine river enters full of trout and salmon and Im guessing very attractive to bears in the season. There are several whales cruising and fishing in the middle often very near to us. We notice we are parting a cloud of Mackerel the size of 2 football pitches as we nearer the head of the bay. It’s still deep and our anchor wont work in this sandy bottomed terminal moraine. Luckily for us there’s a wrotten old rope attached to a 200 ton block we can put our trust in (apparently the SAR boat sometimes uses it). We could have reached over and grabbed the mackerel. But that would be like competing with the otters and seals which fill this end of the bay. So one drop with the feathers fills the breakfast pan and some sizzling butter and pepper does the trick. A sunny a day and an explore on shore before lunch. It feels like a mini u touched paradise. An afternoon plan is hatched to take the Dinghy 2 miles up fjord to explore and maybe fish up the river. Its all to good to be true.Читать далее
Williamsport
4–5 сент. 2025, Канада ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
On our leisurely schedule, we make a short bumble down the coast. To a small fjord with little or no information to guide us. As usual there is likely to be a small abandoned settlement in the northerly inlet. But the rest off the fjord is a bit of a mystery. A simple and obvious route in following the deep water down the centre. Then hook right as the settlement of Williams port comes into view , that little inlet is a rock garden of giant boulders in shallow water. This sort of terrain is caused by a Glacier carrying large rocks towards the sea and also pushing fine sediment beneath itself. When the glacier melts the boulders are left on the sediment. Im sure its wasn’t trying to make anchoring tricky. We have to anchor in about 5 metres in the entrance to the bay. Rather than getting into better protection. Once settled elevenses is the main focus. Followed by heading to what looks like a rusty factory. Half way down the steep bay. We motor down about a mile and it becomes obvious the rusty hulks are in fact a decaying whaling station. And the closer we get the bigger it becomes. This place was clearly a megga. Wale processing machine multiple whale per day being dis membered and rendered in Vats. It’s Erie to see this place being slowly absorbed by the undergrowth. The setting is beautiful with a trouty stream supplying water to the process. As we push our way through the long grass which is punctuated with Naily wooden beams there is a continuous hatch of thousand of butterflies which scatter with every step, this goes on all day in all the places we visit. Still don’t know what type of butterflies they are. Are an extended investigation a photo opportunity. We head down the bay to scout the. River fishing possibilities. All a bit much for Mr T he has a nap while i walk the river looking for signs of fish.Читать далее
Return to Newfoundland
29 апреля, Канада ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C
Well the time has come has finally come. The winter is over, spring has arrived. My 60th birthday has past. And now its time to pack the bags with all the spares and equipment we will need for this years trip. Navigation equipment, hydraulic rams, oil filters, fuel filters paper charts. Pilot books. Spare plumbing fittings . Jack has dropped me at the train and GWR were super efficient in getting me to Gatwick and my £250 flight to St John’s my bag is over weight and they turn. A blind eye . Its a perfect blue sky day and the flight stays low over the UK section. The flight is heading straight for Bude and the view from the window reminds me just how amazingly beautiful our country is. A proper treating.As the very short flight, 4h50m nears St John’s on this very clear day 40 or 50 icebergs were creeping past heading south on the Labradore current. It’s a sunny day but all the lakes are frozen as we fly low into the airport. The roads are clear but the snow is still piled up either side. I decide to get a cab to the 1 night stay in the holiday inn. It’s like comedy the cabby says 26 bucks I agree and he pretty much drives to the other side of the road and says we are here. I had to smile. Mark heally my old mate from the first leg of this trip back in Scotland has paid for the room on his loyalty points and I even get an upgrade, he must have been really loyal. Be good to see home when he arrives next week. For what looks like an icy leg. I hope the boat is in good shape as I only have 9 day to do all the chore to be ready for the years adventuresЧитать далее
1st Month Back
30 апр.–30 мая, Канада ⋅ ☀️ 4 °C
I have 9 days to get the boat out of moth balls and launched. Before mike and Mark arrive There is still snow on the ground and no one back at work in Lewisporte to launch the boat. it could be a tall order. It’s a big year this year with the plan for Newfoundland Greenland and Iceland and hopefully back to the UK so Im very conscious that the boat needs to be in good shape for such a demanding mileage. The jobs list looks like this
Service. heater, hot water heater, engine, generator, electric toilet, water maker, folding propeller. 7 winches. Cooker/hob, outboard engine.
Re run all lines into the mast and around the boat . Put on the sails , put on the spray hood and sail bag on
Flush all antifreeze out of plumbing and drainage and sterilise the water tanks. Check all se cocks
Test, EPIRB, star-link, VHFs, AIS and Garmin in reach, 12v Battery bank
Repack grab bags, install life raft, inflate dinghy and fit out
Update all navigation software
I have 3 days in an Air B&B before I’m back living on the boat so I guess getting the heating and hot water sorted is first job. But first I have to remove the coverings I made last autumn to protect the boat from the snow and Ice, of the very tough winter they had here. With 1 month of minus 20 and 1 month of 170cm of snow with wind in the 50 knot bracket.
The coverings was made using the upturned dinghy and tarpaulins and an old fishing net I stitched together. All lashed down with lines. And the truth is, it has worked perfectly and looks like the day I left it. So I have high hopes of no damage although the very cold temperatures may have found any mistakes I have made with the anti freeze application.
So day one is cover off and heating and hot water up and running. The solar has kept a charge in the batteries and Im relieved the systems fire up as normal ready for a service and no leaks on the hot water. Day 2 is dry so i decide to be outside and re run all the ropes which pretty much takes the whole day with include end to ending some halyards to move small areas off Chaff some where leases critical. But it’s a big job ticked off. Day 3 is service all 7 winches including the windlass and re making all the anchor connections again a very long day in less than perfect conditions.
Day 4 service the engine and remove the water maker ready for its new membrane and consumable pressure pump.
Day 5 service generator new membrane to water maker and find that the manufacturers have sent the wrong pump for water maker not sure how to sort this at the moment but will come back to it.
Day 5, Toilets the electric toilet is seized so a total strip down is required and it turns out the motor is locked solid. Best order a new one. Yet again not an easy problem out this far. While I wait for the new motor to arrive with Claire I decide to use brute force and lubrication to see if I can get the motor moving after 3 hours of muscle vinegar and frustration I have a working toilet but who knows how long for, I have everything crossed.
Day 6 pump out the antifreeze and pressure test the plumping and heating. Fill the water tanks and sterilise them overnight. Heat the water with the heater. Check all seacocks operation.
Day 9 start the engine and generator. Test all bilge pumps Then put boat back together and clean
Day 8 Mark turns up a day earlier that I had remembered which is great as he is a very handy bloke and we prep for launch the next day. Truth is I’m tired and the pressure of having people show up the moment the boat is launched is tough.
Day 9 Yard guys are back at work and they lift us in right on schedule and we are the first boat launched this year and probably the last this month. Mark and I make a hash of putting the sails on but both of us patiently get it right.
Mark and I take a sigh of relief and find meal and some beers for the evening. Tomorrow we will load up with food and do a test sail to Exploits Island 20 miles away.
We decide to make it a 2 night test sail with second night on Sievers Island. It’s freezing cold and we see 2 decent size bergs just outside the island. But it reminds me how much I like these isolated places. And why we make such a big effort to experience it. The test sail goes well and we arrive back in time to borrow Sheena the Yard managers gar and collect Mike and go shopping before heading off on the 200 mile trip south to St John’s. Mike is barely off the plane and we are motoring out towards Exploit’s again for the beginning of the big trip. We even see a Minky whale on the way. First legs is a great success as we begin to learn how to work together and work out how many layers of cloths are required for this type of early season sailing, it’s a lot.
Our next hop is about 35 miles in daylight to Twillingate, home of Iceberg watching in Newfee. Surprisingly we see no serious bergs just bergy bits wedged on the land but the air temperature is tough. All is going to plan but the old dilapidated dock I was intending to tie up to has 10 lobster pots and strings hanging from it so is a no go. I decide to follow the channel into the main fishing harbour to see if there are options there. There weren’t . The wind and the sleet started as we we spinning round to get out. A bit stressful and a bit shallow. A new plan is needed. We decide to put the anchor down near the delapodated dock. Take the dinghy and tie all of the loose lobster ropes out of the way and then up anchor and use the dock anyway. The plan is good and after some faff. We are in a warm bar in a tourist town based on iceberg and whale watching. The next hop is to Fogo Island another fishing community about 40 miles away so next day we head out, there’s a bit of blue sky on the way and we intercept a decent berg on route for some photos. There is a 3 metre swell running and the entrance to fogo is narrow and rocky and as we line up the entrance it’s obvious some concentration and a get out plan will be required. If things look marginal. Head sail down and we motor sail into the rocky gap pretty big booming waves hitting the rocks on either side. There is a bouy to turn 90 degrees around just inside the entrance where we have to drop the main efficiently then motor along a 600 metre narrow channel Leiden with lobster bouys before the water opens ups in a much safer area. All goes well but I’m pretty sure the boys will remember it for a while. We find a spot on the dock near the fishing plant. And take a stroll. It’s not long before the normal newfee hospitality kicks in and we are in a car having a tour. We have to stay 2 nights here as the weather is bad and the exit is tricky in a big swell. We explored the local walks one of which has the original Marconi sight that sent the message across the Atlantic and also received the distress signal from the Titanic.
The wind is just acceptable for a prompt start the following morning. The exit through the rocky gap needs some concentration and we decide to have the 2 reefs in the main and the in jib for enough power to get through the swell. The first part of the day is going to be upwind. And we go past the famous fogo hotel in Jo Batts arm. An un believable bit of architecture in this isolated place. I cant explain just how cold and damp the day is probably the coldest sailing day I have had for a very long time. We barely away toward Lumsden. And the rain and wind is now entering the cockpit from behind and the conditions are miserable, mike comes up with a plan to take to take turns on being inside and getting warm again on 20 minute rotations. We have been passing lots of small medium bergs with growler fields on there lee side. So the one person on watch has to be concentrating and with there head out in the cold most of the time. Mike describes this as type 2 fun. The kinda fun you appreciate when it’s over. I think this is the day Mark decide adventure sailing might not be his cuppa tea. The day is long and the there is no let up in the concentration or the cold or the wind which reaches about 30knts for a time which at these temperatures is bitter. We arrive in Lumsden which is a tight little fisherman’s harbour with Crab boats everywhere, luckily there’s a little spot for us. Fisherman look pretty surprised to see us. But as always they start bringing some gifts of crab and lobster. The VHF arial has fallen off on the last leg and is hanging by a wire. I think I’ll wait until tommorow to get up the mast and fix it. 2 days in Lumsden waiting for the weather to calm down and now we are heading to Bonavista with our crab and lobster ready for a feast. A nice little 45 mile plus day with great weather and easy sailing. All is good in the world again and the lobsters are boiled with 10 miles to go. Bonavista has the promises of a bar and a meal out excitement is building. The Harbour mast remembers me from last year tells us we are the first sailing boat of the year, Im not really surprised. We take advantage of the showers and laundry and we are good to go again. The next stop is Bay verde another busy but small fishing harbour which is just into conception bay, which is this trips final destination. The forcast is blue sky and down wind for this 50 ish day. Everyone is happy and the sailing isn’t taxing. As we approach Bacceleua Tickle we see some humpbacks breaching we decide to take a long slow drift on the outside side of the island to see the Puffin, Gannett, Guillemot, Razorbill, colonies and is well worth the minor detour. We end up with a more upwind battle into the harbour than planned in 25 knots plus some of the time. All tied up for a short stop and an early start he following morning for the final leg to Long pond and the oval Newfoundland Yacht club. Sounds way too posh for us. The day starts early, about 6 ish and we have 2 reefs and the small head sail, the forecast is for 25 to 30 knots almost but not quite upwind. The wind is off the land so the water is flat and we eat up the 38 miles and are in for lunch. It’s been a top trip, feels like a bit of a delivery schedule but we have plenty of different weather and wildlife . Mike and mark have toughed out the bad weather. Now it’s time to tidy the boat and have a nice meal and some beers . As always Mark super good easy company and always on the jobs list, Mike Storing his kit ready for his return in July for the Greenland trip. All in all a great time although mostly Type 2 fun. Ill add photos when I can access my cameraЧитать далее
Visit from Ronaldo (pre World Cup)
29 мая–5 июн., Канада ⋅ 🌬 4 °C
Well it’s been a heat wave in the uk with record May highs of 35 degrees plus. Ronaldo with his natural optimism turns up in his shorts straight from the taxi. It’s below 5 degrees here with a nifty 20 knot breeze giving a wind chill that has Ice in the air. The forecast for the first few days on Ron’s visit is chuffing freezing and chuffing windy. Luckily we are somewhere civilised with a bar and heating. There’s a couple of UK boats here and a nice grumpy Shetlander that I met last year who’s always fun to hang out with. On the second evening stuck in port we arrange to have dinner on board with Alistair (grumpy Shetlander) and his boat is 25 to 30 metres from ours. It is so cold Ron and I are not sure we will make it. Hands frozen and a laugh watching Ron trying to climb onto Alistairs boat with his natural optimism. We arrive like Scott of the Antarctic arriving in his tent. Frozen and wind swept. Luckily Paul (alistairs crewmate,) who is fresh from a disappointment after chasing a local girl has cooked a top dinner which is ready to eat. We talk rubbish, as always, for a couple of hours, and agree to accompany Alistair and his Coopemans 55 on a shakedown sail to Carbonear across the bay. In the morning. It’s like a winter sail in Cornwall, but at least Ron and I are up and running. And we have tea and cake with Wally in the local cafe when we arrive, Ron has iced cinnamon rolls as he is watching his weight.. Alistair returns back to base but Ron and I are carrying on up the bay in the morning after a blow passes through,hopefully to see whales and bergs so we get all the boxes ticked.
Last year I was heading north pretty fast and didn’t head into Conception Bay or Trinity bay. Turns out thats where all the sailing happens around here, and where all the population lives mostly in second homes. Its feels wealthy and civilised quite a surprise. We are up at the crack of civilised o clock and point the boat at Baccaleu Tickle our best chance of seeing a whale this early in the season. Ron derives the boat for the full 36 miles just to make sure he not sea sick. We get a brief glimpse of a whale but I’m not sure that boxes is ticked yet. We are definitely gonna end up in Bay de Verde for the night, a fishing port that no self respecting cruiser goes, but is super handy for some wildlife hotspots. When we arrive we go for a stomp around the headland and find a sea eagle and mate on the nest. What a treat. There nest is over looking te bay at the rear of the port which has a berg welded in it. This berg has been wedged for weeks and the locals call it the arse berg as it was shaped like two big cheeks. I think that’s a box ticked. Next day off to bacceleua tickle and island hoping for whales and sea bird colonies one out of 2 not bad Puffins, Ganetts, Guilimotts, Razorbills, all stacked on the cliffs and smelling as bad as you might think. Weather is generally as average as yo might think and we decide to head for Ochre Pit, yet another unknown fishing port with super friendly locals who tell us about las year hot summer again, and how many houses were lost orally to the Forrest fires 200!! Mostly un insured. We have had a pretty cold long day and we decide to test our culinary skills with sausage mash carrots and onion gravy. Total winter food success. Weathers getting worse again so we make a short dash to Carbonear again for relative civilisation while we wait out the weather. After a short walk around town we settle on a pool hall and chicken wings. Felt pretty Canadian to us.
Claire arrives tommorow and we have left a short hop back to RNYC so we can all have dinner together before Ron puts his shorts on to return home.
It’s been great to have Ron here for the week and so pleased he made the big effort although it feels short in time now it’s over. Ron and I joke that I wont have to cook for the next month and probably wont have to make a decision eitherЧитать далее
ПутешественникLove this & Ron loved it Aus! Best Berg(er)s he's seen . Wish I could have checked out some wildlife with you. Don't know how you manage to take photos when it's so cold. Photos are awesome. A xxx
Crew change
5–7 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C
After a relatively straightforward journey Uber deposited me at The RNYC just as Austen and Ronney tied up. Time for a stroll in what felt like freezing cold wind (with both assuring me it’s warming up!🥶)
We spent a pleasant couple of hours over supper in the yacht club and Ronney departs for his flight home.
My first day is bright and we decide to find a walk rather than do jobs - taking a taxi north to Harbour Main we walkout to Gaster Bay headland. Watching the gulls assemble in the harbour on our return we were accosted by a gentleman looking for some company, he then self appointed as our taxi ride back to base. At 93 and very hard of hearing it made for an interesting ride, questions and answers had little connection and the route was somewhat tortuous due to scenic detours and a misunderstanding of Conception Harbour and Conception Bay yacht club.
Sunday we regrouped, did a major food shop - should keep us going for a couple of weeks and Austen’s veg intake will be on the increase😂. The first sail was in pleasant conditions, ideal for me finding my sailing feet again, straight across Conception Bay to Brigus on the West Shore. I was slightly surprised by just how many layers of clothing were required to maintain temperature.
When we travelled last year we had headland hopped and consequently bypassed both Conception and Trinity bays which are huge inlets and have promise of being great places to explore.Читать далее
Brigus
7–9 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C
Brigus sits deep in SW corner of Conception Bay. Conveniently there’s a completely empty government wharf on our right/ starboard as we approach the harbour. The routine of fenders out and securing the first rope to act as a brake comes back to me and we are tied up in no time.
We’ve arrived on a grey evening but need to stretch our legs. As we wander through the streets around the cove it’s looking pretty affluent with a lot of house renovation in progress.
Brigus is one of the oldest recorded settlements with records dating back to early 1600’s. Some big names in sea faring and fishing from Europe made their way here.
By 1850’s the Bartlett family dominated with schooners that fished Labrador anchoring or perhaps wedging themselves deep in the harbour inside Mollys island. A hole blasted through the rock to give direct town access.
A lot of the town is built around a large central lagoon, our evening stroll took us to a bar (and turned out you can’t have a drink without eating - so we did!) it feels a big contrast to last year to be in more populated (perhaps mainly air BnB and weekend dwellers) with the benefit of some provision of hospitality. Needed to be sampled but you can’t have a beer without food and they close at 7pm!
The following day is cloudy but I’ve spotted a trail to the headland North of us and drag Austen along - his reward at the headland- a distant whale sighting and on return the old convent established 1866 and closed 1996 is now paying its way operating as a day time cafe with extremely good date squares!
For our evening stroll we head to the east shore and are rewarded with a perfect Beaver pond complete with Beaver ( neither of us had a camera 😔)
The following day the wind is from the south and perfect to get up a to the top of the Bay - it’s also a blue sky day which meant a quick photo opportunity.In town before we sail.Читать далее
Bay de Verde
9–10 июн., Канада ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C
I think I’m meant to write some technical spiel about the sail at this point - but so long as we’ve made it in one piece without freezing I’m good with that! It was a comfortable journey and a Deja vue moment arriving in this very basic fish factory harbour. Quinlans processing plant dominates the town and employs hundreds of Philippine workers. Processing snow crab before moving on to cod. There’s cloud of gulls feeding on the fish waste outflow we part with the bow and they cloud around us as we enter and leave port. ( Pas did advise keeping a hat on - at this stage I had a headband and 2 hats on, probably adequate protection
There’s a good rugged headland hill above the town & it’s a beautiful evening so we climb. An ice berg 1/3 side of when Austen passed a week ago with Ron sits in the bay and we spot sea eagles circling overhead - having a territory squabble with some gulls.
Austen stops and I walk slightly higher spooking another eagle off her nest giving Austen a direct line of sight to the ledge the scruffy nest balances precariously on. Before long she’s back, with a “fish” which turns out on closer examination of the photo to be an unsuspecting puffin. Some great photos once we can get them off the big camera!
We leave early the following day to round the headland.Читать далее
Old Perlican via Baccalieu tickle
10–11 июн., Канада ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C
So today I remember what the predicted wind was 7-9mph from SE perfect for gently taking us north around the headland inside Baccalieu Island through the tickle. The passage and island, I remember from last year, is teeming with seabirds particularly puffins but also a good number of razor bills guillemots and black guillemots cohabit, gannets are numerous and the island has a massive leaches storm petrel colony, we see a couple out at sea as we approach and other birds are Bobbing in the sea.
However wind and sea conditions are NOT as forecast and anything but conducive to a slow meander past and hover to enjoy. Whales appear to have the memo that it’s not pleasant and have made themselves scarce too.
We head on - sailing fast with a following wind which must mean it’s NE and round the headland and into Old Perlican. There’s a friendly marina office with luxurious shower on offer. This again is a functional fishing port - the biggest plant operated by the Quins ( apparently the sister setting up in opposition to her 2 brothers that operate Quinlans in Bay deVerde.
No photos apart from the iceberg as we left Bay Verde -Читать далее
Trinity Harbour
11–13 июн., Канада ⋅ 🌧 12 °C
Old Perlican sits in East side at the top of Trinity Bay which is another deep, deep bay that ends in a place named “Come by Chance”. At this point the bays almost intersect with Argentina on the South of NF just a narrow band of land remains holding the mainland together. Trinity Harbour is slightly north of Old Perlican on the West side and comes recommended for its history and location.
Everything is measured relative to a Fowey trip (from Plymouth) and guess what this is a Fowey trip! I think that’s meant to be reassuring as in it’s 4 hours in good conditions. Fairly accurate today I’d say, apart from the temperature if the suns not out and there’s a decent breeze, it’s cold!!
Trinity sits on angular prominently within a bigger inlet there’s a long prominentry with cute lighthouse making an excellent breakwater as we approach.
We tie to a fairly rickety pontoon ignoring the floating dock between us and it altogether. In theory it belongs to the Dock Marine restaurant adjacent but no one appears bothered we are here. I look up and as if by magic we are adjacent to a chocolate shop, which also sells the local ice cream and coffees - not a bad parking choice.
We are going to be here for a couple of nights as it’s forecast pretty windy (30-40s)
As the shops open til 8pm it would be rude not to have ice cream for desert after a stroll through town.
This is quite a tourist spot, we are aware of coaches arriving and people milling about.
Trinity is another older settlement - John Cabot came here in the late 1500’s identifying the harbour as beautifully protected. Some things don’t change!
It appears to have established itself as more of a merchant trading post than purely a fishing port. A lot of settlers were from Poole area establish family businesses, trade fish and furs back with European produce arriving by return. Iron, clothing fabric footwear and foods that aren’t fish! It had established blacksmiths, courtrooms, shops, schools churches and theatres. A lot of the buildings are well preserved and refurbished.
To while away the rough weather day we purchase the heritage trail tickets and access the properties around the town. ( Austen easily side tracked from his proposed paper work day)
Whilst we had intention of giving the local restaurant some business it was rammed at all hours of the day (opening hours are short and coincided with tourist buses emptying into the town). Our timing always appeared bad.
We sat out a couple of nights here, enjoying the views, walks and history.Читать далее
Traytown Harbour Irelands Eye
13–14 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
If Trinity is a sheltered spot then Traytown has to match it, if not beat it! Ireland’s eye is a small Island that sits about 10 miles south of Trinity. It’s basically an abandoned outport with the remaining inhabitants resettled in 1964.
There’s evidence of derelict buildings along the shore and a few renovated dwellings. We tied up to one of their wharfs in the morning and learned that it was the family spot previously where they fished for a living and now is just for recreational use.
We followed trials across to the other side of the island and found graveyards which are always interesting in these tiny remote places they tell families stories, some of which are sad ones.
Weather conditions meant Austen deciding to put out a second anchor as we were swinging around with changeable wind directions and coming close to shore having positioned ourselves deep in what was almost a small spiral harbour. There was a loud expletive accompanying this procedure by virtue of the fact he lost the rope attached to said anchor before returning to the boat to attach it….😬 there followed a fishing mission with a grappling hook🤣 to retrieve it!
Needless to say by the following morning all was still and calm, we retrieved both our anchors and left this beautiful spot.with loons calling behind us.Читать далее
Deer Harbour Random Island
15–16 июн., Канада ⋅ ☀️ 10 °C
It was a short afternoon motor sail south to Deer harbour which sits the NE tip of Random island, this is a big island -approx 20 miles long, the water on both north and south shore forming fjords into the west side of Trinity Bay.
It’s a wide open harbour with settlements along the shore, we headed up to the north end and anchored with relative ease and good protection.
There’s time for an early evening explore utilising trails and ATV tracks, there’s a road running the length of random island so looks as if the cabins here are primarily accessed from the causeway at Clarenville. As it’s mid week there’s not a soul about but we spot a snow shoe hare in perfect spring camouflage and some interesting paw prints in the mud, bobcat we think.Читать далее
Another Deer Harbour!
16–17 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C
We left Random island after breakfast on deck, sure sign it’s warming up! and hugged the rugged island strewn coast heading south into Trinity Bay, Austen had spotted a little niche in the peninsula tip on the mainland just south of the fjord entrances which had a wind protected bay behind.
As we approach we can see a pebbled beach and decide to head behind into Granny’s cove for lunch. Anchoring up we can see picnic benches on the beach - pack our simple sandwiches and dingy ashore. Summer really has arrived, it’s T shirt weather which feels great.
The waters clear - but pretty cold as we step out of dingy - perhaps too cold to swim just yet. Instead we climb the headland and walk the trail with convenient seats located at view points. Half way round a minke comes into view below - just cruising the turquoise clear shallow water below us turning upside down at times exposing a white underside.Beautiful to watch.
It’s cooling by 3pm and we redress for the cool breeze and sail further down Trinity Bay north side to find ourselves in another Deer Harbour! ( SE arm cove). After a glorious lunch time there was a momentary blip in proceedings when the starter motor failed to start the engine first click - it’s NEVER done this before. That solid reliability of engine starting is huge without it were totally dependent on being able to sail out of danger which is easier said than done. Particularly as, as far as I can work out the winds always blowing the wrong way……
As we head into the cove yet again the starter motor needed a couple of attempts to start, winds have picked up to a strong 20 from the East (and I have a vision of having to turn rapidly round and get out into the sea sailing into the evening whilst Austen tries to fix it.
Not the most enticing prospect at the end of a long day. Luckily that wasn’t the reality, we enter the Cove and winds proceeds to funnel in behind
However it fired up on the 3rd attempt, so sails down we explore whilst being wind beaten. Initially it doesn’t look great in terms of anchoring but we finally tuck ourselves into a niche on the north bank.
The anchor holds and we sit tight for the night. It’s been a long day. the evening is filled with some intensive YouTube consultation on where the electric fault with the starter switch may be.
The Following morning is a calm one with some warmth - perfect for getting back up the mast and installing a couple of washers fashioned from yogurt pots to the recently replaced aerial (this potentially being part of the electric leakage issue)Читать далее
Clarenville
17–19 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
Deer harbour number 2 is well down towards the SW corner of Trinity Bay and guess what we have a consistent strongish northerly wind pinning us down there! So to move up the bay we need to tack right across towards the opposite shore approximately 14 miles and back again to make the entrance to the fjord on the south side of Random Island.
The wind is meant to be changing to the East but seems to be on its own time frame. Playing for time we explore 2.5 miles of the SW Cove, Deer harbour, before we leave by the entrance that had been a bit of a challenge on entry.
It’s a long way round and very cold - luckily there’s enough of the industrial batch of chili left for lunch. No great wildlife sightings today either.
Somehow (perhaps Austen’s good judgement) we are bang on target after our long tack to enter the fjord - it’s close to 20 miles down the length, Rocky cliffs that have not had human interference coated in lichen and trees both sides, reminds us of the Norwegian fjords, smaller scale. In between where there is good access by water, clearings have been made and homes or cabins perhaps more often, established, Closer to Clarenville is looking like a smart property area.
Finally the wind changes and gets behind us so we zip along at good speed. We reach a tiny yacht club well into the evening having done a 50+ mile day - so that’s 2.5 Fowey trips.
I’ve made risotto of the use up all the oddments variety (food stocks now low)
Tied on a pontoon we settle to eat and the first friendly face appears, Keith owns the neighbouring boat and explains we need a key to even get off the pontoon (we hadn’t noticed that!) He provides a number to ring and leaves it unlocked for us.
We stay a couple of days as the weather’s not great and Austen needs an admin day and extra time to continue starter issue resolution.
He’s excited to find Mercer’s Marine at the yacht club entrance, having previously checked out their on line catalogue. For those who don’t know he’s partial to digesting the odd catalogue. We have access to supermarkets, laundry and showers, find a Vietnamese restaurant and opportunistically arrive just in time to see England play Croatia in football World Cup! We win the sweep stake and return the following evening to claim our prize!
Progress on the job front is slow as we appear to be hosting coffee and tea breaks for the yacht club, Clayton, Mark and Jenny being our regulars!
Austen’s regretting giving away a couple of relays to a fisherman fixing his boat (as he had no use for them) that Patrick gave him only a couple of weeks before. He now needs them! By the time we leave the starter is firing well again and we have a complicated fist full of wires that provide a plan B should it be required, so feeling happier about that.Читать далее
Traytown 2nd stop
19–20 июн., Канада ⋅ 🌧 10 °C
We decide to leave Clarenville early-ish to beat the forecast incoming rain and strong winds overnight. Traytown has great protection so that’s the destination.
I made the most of being able to access an early morning shower and we slip away before there’s any local visitors for coffee.
It’s a couple of long tacks to get back up the arm as wind is head on.
As we reach the entrance I spot a whale/log? It’s floating in the distance briefly submerges and floats again. Strange . As we come closer we are sure it’s a whale - just not moving. We approach slowly, unnoticed and round up for a closer look as we go around to its left side it wakes - moves a little, then spy hops to check us out - moves again and within 10 mins is back asleep!
Logging is the term given to sleeping whales which seems apt. We also sussed they sleep resting half their brain at a time as breathing is conscious. Maybe why we didn’t disturb it from the right side.
There were then another 3 whale sightings as we made our way north up the west coast of the bay. Just rounding into Traytown harbour as the rain started. Full baton down the hatches required for the night!Читать далее
Port Rexton
20–21 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C
We need to continue working our way up the Bay as we want to start heading back south for the last 2 weeks of June as the whales should be arriving.
We decide to try Port Rexton, the Bay north of Trinity it’s not in the guide but looks possible.
It’s overcast and not much wind so a motor sail. A couple more whale sightings en route .
There’s a little headland to round and a small harbour but it rapidly becomes apparent whilst uncharted, it’s shallow - for small private fishing boats. There’s one dodgy mooring we avoid and anchor just outside both.
From the map walks looked promising on both headlands - the reality heavy cloud/fog descended for the afternoon, its wet and very cold which was far from attractive!
Simultaneous we discover that the cabin heater which runs off the engine isn’t producing warm air - a pipe is leaking so the search is on!
We venture ashore in the evening and find the local brewery that’s making a good effort to accommodate tourists from Trinity and is doing a good trade in carry outs for locals. A few random beers sampled!
We spend the night being rocked as swell gets around the headland.Читать далее
Baccalieu Tickle
21 июня, Канада ⋅ ☁️ 9 °C
The aim for today was to revisit Baccalieu in calm conditions (forecast had been good but NF style the weather does its own thing! There’s 2 swells running a short one crossing the bay and intermittent slow big one entering😬
It’s a 4 hour sail to reach the island and we add an extra hour trying to leave Port Rexton as we appear to have picked up every piece of seaweed with attached rocks on our anchor it weighs so much we cannot get it out of the water initially. Simultaneously we have wrapped the rope to the float around the keel. Meantime the wind is blowing us onto the headland we’ve just been trying to hide behind - maybe this is why it’s not a recommended spot in the Manual🤷🏽♀️
It’s a very cold day and low cloud means permanently damp - so perhaps 6 degrees as we hear of 36 about to hit the UK.
The first thing we notice is the shearwaters are back! Then we get a relatively close up view of a pack of seals 3-4 miles off shore fishing near the surface as capelin gather. We’d seen this in the distance previously in Conception Bay unsure what we’d witnessed. We came across more rafts later. They move fast in a tight knit group noses out of the water regularly. It’s good to see them as sealing has been a huge industry here and still is. Sealskin products being sold
In shops.
Whale sightings start well and we realise as we reach the tickle they are numerous - happy humpbacks, multiple blows, fin and tail slapping ,a couple of breaches we slow down and spend several hours sailing amongst them watching their antics. They make awesome deep grunting sounds but their breath doesn’t smell too great!
As we round the island a whale approaches the back of the boat, we can see him just beneath the water and he swims beneath us coming out at the front, twisting with fins and tail out of the water - then obviously drops back to repeat the game a couple more times! Mind blowing close encounter - you realise how powerful they are feeling water shift as they move, yet he’s careful and accurate. Amazing treat.Читать далее
Bay Verde again!
21–23 июн., Канада ⋅ 🌧 8 °C
We ended up returning to Bay Verde for safe harbour after our Baccalieu day sail
We stayed 2 nights this time - walked out to see the sea eagle sitting on her nest, had an abortive attempt at Baccalieu the next morning completely fog coated - we used the afternoon to experience Blundon House historic centre - which proved itself a gem! For $5 Canadian there’s a fully guided tour including fishing net repair demo and a take away bobbin, afternoon tea with raisin scone 😍 A complete winner!Читать далее
St John’s
23–26 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C
Forecast for Monday 23rd was looking good the evening before (& confirmed in the morning) for a long days sail - more Falmouth than Fowey trip aiming to get to Petty harbour which sits 8 miles South of St John and has come recommended. We know there’s wind coming through on night of 24th so will be good to be tucked up for then.
Austen casts off whilst I’m tidying up inside - as it’s calm! He spots a shoal of capelin at the entrance and a whale close by. Then the bumps started!
We get the sails up which gives some stability but its head on, not on the beam as predicted. Waves are choppy, coming up both from The bay with big rollers crossing at a nasty angle as they roll in off the Atlantic. 🤢
Up side of this trip - several rafts of seals pass at close range and there’s a few whales - a couple of which pop up next to the boat rather surprising themselves as well as us!
We spot a fin whale - one of the biggest around here (we’ve yet to see a blue) and 3 orcas identifiable by their huge dorsal fins.
We did manage a couple of hours of good fast sailing - then a wind shift takes us out to sea on a big tack from the headland Spear head, above St John. This is confounded by big seas, a total loss of wind, followed by 24knots at completely different angle. Multiple sail adjustments required and we tack back towards the mainland having made little ground. We abandon Petty harbour and opt for St John’s. Once an oil rig supply ship exits the narrow channel we have a clear way to enter, its early evening after a long day at sea.
We pile down to the bottom of the basin and tie up close to our normal spot! Adjacent to the multi-storey car park with container loading terminal on the other side, Oh and Ocean Quest tourist boat playing awful Irish ballads rather too loud astern.
We are here for 2 nights
Austen spots Claus and Christine - friends met in Labrador last year, their yacht one of the 4 others here - it’s busy!!
There’s an opportunity the next morning to pop back to the Georgetown bakery - croissants and fresh bread! Delicious.
Next day we plan to walk out to the north headland in the fog - we are drawn in and properly side tracked by Roddy Pearce operating a mini family museum in his twine shed, with photos and stories a plenty. He does walking tours which I would imagine are a whole day event judging by our 2 hour interlude - he’s informative passionate and has good tales to tell. My fave was as an 8 year old boy his dad gave him a broken off fish knife and taught him to use it. He became adept at removing livers and tongues from cod as they were filleted. He then towed ashore and sold his buckets of livers and tongues at 12c/lb whilst his day was being paid 1c for the muscle.
Turns out we stay in this stunning location for 3 nights! It’s very windy through the next day. We end up spending almost all of it in “The Rooms” it a modern dominant excrescence on top of the Hill visible from all around. Reality check on just how bad the wind is as we arrive. Inside is as well thought as it’s unattractive outside!
It’s a melting pot of art galleries, history museums and natural world displays.
As we tumble out, starving, we happen upon the UFO cafe - run by an Iranian couple - and enjoy a delicious lunch !
Then time to get home and cook supper for friends - including baking a lemon cake using yogurt, maple syrup and ground almonds. Didn’t turnout too bad!Читать далее
Petty Harbour
26–27 июн., Канада ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C
After an evening in St John spent with guests, Claude and Catherine that Austen knows from last year. Kenneth, a solo Norwegian sailor appears, plonks himself on the steps whilst we eat with a beer and stayed for cake and coffee too! Austen and I set alarms and we’re up before 6 ready to leave and looked up to see a pilot boat guide a small town balanced on a cruise ship through the narrows, as the entrance to the harbour is called. Goodness knows how it squeezed that gap. We need to sit tight whilst it performs a slow 270 mid harbour, it’s followed by a container ship which reverses up to the terminal. An hour later it’s our turn to make a bid for the channel before another monstrous vessel appears and squashes us!
We haven’t planned a long sail today - but guess what - it’s upwind and minimal winds that so motor sail it is.
We are headed into Petty Harbour which has come recommended and turns out whilst it’s close to St John, consequently boasting some tourist attractions, boat trips, zip lining, walking tours and ice cream parlours it’s not a bad spot for a beautiful warm day.
After a brief greeting and introduction from the harbourmaster who grants us one nights free stay, in the spirit of refuge from the sea, but if we’re here the following afternoon he’ll charge for 2!
We scramble up the hill on the Southside of motion Bay and pick up part of the East coast trail out to a headland.
Austen sleeps on the lichen (ends up wearing quite a bit) and I walk a further getting into boggier conditions with the flytrap plants and midge numbers increasing. I don’t venture into the pools of water in dark peat bog as I cannot judge the depths!
Back in town we find Tinkers ice cream parlour with very complicated menu that the kids on a birthday outing appear to have sorted. We settle for a cone.
We while away the afternoon enjoying the warmth with admin list and reading, then head to the pub after supper - we arrive at 7.20pm - last orders are 8pm and closed by 8.30!Читать далее
Petty Harbour - 2nd visit!
26–27 июн., Канада ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C
It’s a relatively short day (Fowey length) to start to head north with the knowledge that if we stop short of StJohns - which isn’t a particularly attractive destination the next day will be a long one to round the headland and get ourselves back into conception Bay.
Petty harbour wins out.
There humpbacks and dolphins along the way and we’re in by early afternoon. The harbour master appears as if by magic and grants us one nights free stay - but will charge us for 3 if we’re still there the following day, stakes are getting bigger but wee sure we’ll be gone by 6 am!
We have a few curious visitors and wander around the town ourselves.
The suns out and it’s warm today - feels great!Читать далее
Witless Bay
27–30 июн., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 11 °C
Witless bay was always going to be the location high on the list to return to and it did not disappoint.
Weather forecast for today was sun cloud emoji (Newfoundland translation of this appears to be thick cloud/fog everywhere and sun unable to break through) but it’s time to head to Witless Bay. Normal style wind wasn’t ideal so we put in a tack through a foggy bumpy sea until it came around and were able to sail at a better angle.
Couldn’t really see anything so made little difference! There are several Atlantic white sided dolphins out and they come close enough to see them but didn’t hang around to bow wave as we weren’t going fast enough!
The marine reserve comprises of 4 small islands that total 2 sqkm set in 30 sqkm of protected water. We had sailed through the previous year and been amazed at the bird colonies it is home to and humpbacks that come to feed.
Day 1, we managed a loop of the Gull island as we arrive. It is coated in guillemots, black leg kittiwakes, razor bills and puffins galore. Every inch of exposed mud peppered with burrows. There are thousands of birds sitting at sea that scatter in an ungainly fashion as we approach. The noise! The smell!
Then the humpbacks appear as we reach the entrance to Bay Bulls.
We are headed for Bay Bulls for the first night as a safe place to tie up, on a floating pontoon adjacent to O’Briens boat tours. It’s a massive relief to find the 24hour stone crusher from last year has disappeared. Walk required - which somehow takes Austen directly to the Stoney Duck where there just happens to be a large TV screen and timed perfectly for England Panama game (not that he can concentrate as the lady next to him is demanding his full attention! (That’s not me!)
Day 2 , the start is grey and eerie with very little wind and we set out for Witless Bay, it does not disappoint. The humpbacks as we approach are in full play mode. So we drift very slowly and they come to play. A group of 3 hang around the boat for best part of an hour. They’re a little curious but really just up for fun and a bit of showing off.
It’s forecast to be a very calm couple of nights and we opt to spend the next 2 in Witless Bay. Contrary to the pilot book our anchor holds extremely well.
We arrive and walk ashore finding a path alongside the river then ask local about “capelin rollin’” and are told the NE beach is the spot and they should be in. So we stroll along, after a bit the same people pull up in their truck, to give us a lift! There a few fish we can see on the shore and some in the water. It proves better when re return the following evening, 8:30pm high tide and going dark. The 2 criteria that drive these fish to beach land on gravel shores, spawn and die. Locals collect some to eat and bucket loads for garden fertiliser. The processing plant for fish meal was just here but went early 1990s.
We’d a notion to go back to Gull Island at night to see if we can see/hear the leeches storm petrels that stay in burrows during the day and venture out after dark to fish. Fog says NO.
Day 3, sunshine & again very low winds and we sail quietly out of the bay and can see whales feeding all around us. Their mood is different today, when not feeding they’re “logging” I guess making the most of calm conditions.
3rd evening is extremely calm, full moon and clear - so we after a little rest we venture out on a loop of Gull Island that sits 4 miles out to see from where we are anchored. We startle a few puffins and one sleeping whale. Amazingly 90% of the resident birds are asleep - just kittwakes and gulls can be heard on the South side. I’m not sure if I’ve seen 2 petrels here, quick and bat like.
Around the North side and still not sure until the bottom corner - then their unmistaken call and rapid flight confirms their presence. Too dark to make out detail but lovely to witness.
It’s not an early start the following day - we need to make our way North again.
Venture ashore to the coffee house above the disused wharf before leaving, to find it closed! DIY breakfast it is.Читать далее
Brigus - 2nd visit!
1–3 июл., Канада ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C
LONG sail day
Wind looks promising should be from South varying 12-20 knots and he need to get up around Spear head and into Conception Bay.
Guess what it’s about 5-8 knots all the way north and as we round the headland picks up nicely 20-25knots from SW!
We decide to cross the Bay and opt for Brigus as being the most pleasant spot to sit out the following day then a rough wind day is promised.
It’s a LONG sail though Austen has the boat trimmed well and we’re sailing fine upwind.
The old dock looks busy with fishing boats and a very large slick yacht on the outside - so that leaves us the end.
We announce our arrival with an accidental clang of the anchor against the dock - the response to which is to rouse the skipper of the big yacht - Cowes registered and very polished, to assess the risk to his boat from the approaching rabble. He instructs his wife to get a fender - grunts a bit and disappears inside as we park successfully second time. (His wife is friendly, takes a rope and looks empathetic) Made us giggle and not exactly intensity of the rough and easy NF we’d come to love’
We made use of the Vindicator Press (building that housed the old local newspaper ) for a coffee and returned to The Convent for breakfast. Walked the headland again - and got soaked!
Failed to find the beaver as we returned with Cameras!
Austen has some pics from this visit.
The 2 sepia ones were displayed in a cafe - the port as it was in the fishing hey day when Bartlett family dominated.Читать далее
NFYC CBS - crew change again!
3 июля, Канада ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C
Austen and I had a flat water low wind put managed to sail gently across the bay back to the yacht club. More minke whales this time.
Back in time to get washing done, pack my stuff away until I return to the boat in Greenland. Food stocks depleted and as it’s such a beautiful warm evening (Ron you’d struggle to envisage this) we sat outside in T shirts and treated ourselves to a drinks and supper - it’s lobster season and I had a flat bread which was effectively lobster pizza!
I fly to Boston the following morning and Austen awaits his 2 new crew and has some time to make sure everything is rickety boo before heading North.Читать далее
Путешественник
Compostable loo? Loo paper breaks down too? Harbour looks so pristine I’m sure it doesn’t go straight in