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Via Francigena
  • Carolyn Hyde
  • Carolyn Hyde

Via Francigena

Walking Europe, Via Francigena in reverse. From Rome to Canterbury. 3 months on the road walking solo through Italy, Switzerland, France and England.
Key words. - tolerance, patience, and understanding Read more
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  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    21The boy is a statue but the people behind him are realSand art2Sumo Roman?5Efren Gonzalez

    Day 25 Camaiore to Montignoso

    May 19, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 21 °C

    It has been a very interesting day today . 23.54km today. Awesome mountain and sea views, street art, not to mention meeting Efron Gonzalez ( I watched his whole via Francigena vlog a few years ago) he’s back in Italy walking a group to Rome.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Marble benchesCarrara quarryMy room for the night

    Day 26 Montignoso to Avenza (Carrara)

    May 20, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 18 °C

    Today was a day of ups to get some awesome views of the sea and also the Carrara mountains. I passed a lot of marble works and one had a marble car. The curbs are marble and one rest stop had marble benches. The day was extended by a few kms because of a slip on the path. I would have found a way around through some grape vines but there were 2 very emphatic workers that I was not going to pass. This meant turning around and walking the bike route. it rained I the afternoon but I was inside by the time it got really heavy. There was an amazing cloud formation as the storm was developing. I waited for ages at a railway crossing. Even the car turned their motors off. My accommodation for night is an Ostello that is a little depressing. Basically it is a room with one little window and a bathroom. The room is directly off the church piazza, and it’s raining. 2 of us here tonight. She is I think she said Austrian and she was full of trying to “help” me to be flexible and change my plans.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Cheerful test stopRoman amphitheaterOne way tunnell with traffic lights including walkers controlIt's the 2nd time I have had to use one of theseNot this wayBeautiful strada2Amazing carved ceilings. The photo doesn't do it justice.2The carved cross is supposed to be from 1100ad

    Day 27 Avenza to Sarzana

    May 21, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Today was not a good day. I think it started wrong waking in the cellar tired and missing dinner last night. No rain, but all the walking was on roads 90% paved, like yesterday there was a closure/diversion on the river path section and they had no directions to an alternate route. Google maps was my friend today and although it added a few extra kms on I don’t think it was as much as yesterday. When I got into Sarzana I saw some really pretty streets. The Ostello was full and the hotel that I tried to contact last night (because it was cheep) didn’t confirm I had a booing. When I got into town I went straight there. While I was waiting for afternoon opening an older check man also a walker rocked up. He wanted a room but his morning had left saying it was too expensive but had changed his mind. The girl turned up to open reception , so I went in and spoke to her about my unconfirmed booking. It turned out it is my lucky day. She has one room left and she gave it to me.
    After a quick trip to the supermarket to get supplies for tomorrow (a hard stage with nowhere to get food or drink) I’m lying on my bed watching the giro d’italia while I wait for diner time. Restaurants don’t open until 7pm    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1A tight fit but u made it

    Day 28 Sarzana to Aulla

    May 22, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 17 °C

    A tough day mainly due to. The weather. It rained all day and on a day that supposed to grand views. 762m ascent over monte grosso where it closely resembled nz bush. A lot of the track was rocky water courses hut with some very nicely maintained sections.
    Despite the rain it was the best day walking so far. I found a porcupine quill, walked on medieval roads, was not scared off by a hermits scary figurines, saw some Roman ruins and went from Liguria back into Tuscany. the last bridge was closed at one end and I didn’t see until I got there so I had to take all my stuff off and squeeze through. I wasn’t going back.
    Oh and I found my new outfit for the rest of the journey.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Breakfast
    12I had to clamber over thisAn old washing stationFiletto is such a pretty little town2My accommodation for the night

    Day 29 Aulla to Filetto

    May 23, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 13 °C

    Another day of walking through mainly bush but today it was sunny and the ground was mud. This afternoon Jim phoned and I learnt of a dear friends passing. The remainder of the day was spent in sadness and contemplation of her life and how she made use of the time she knew she had. I need to take a lesson from her.
    My end point today is Filetto. It is such a pretty medieval town and has all sorts of tiny alleys and streets.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Crossing number oneCrossing number twoChingalie print11Zebra21A Christmas tree complete with snow leavesDisney statueMy dogs for the nightThe view from my window

    Day 30 Filetto to Pontremoli

    May 24, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    OMG I have been walking for 30 days. Gosh how the time has flown. My legometer clicked over 500km today. So I guess that means I’m half way to the Grand St Bernard pass. This also means that I am behind schedule but I don’t care. I’ll make it up at some stage. Both yesterday and today I found 2 tiny ticks each day.and that is despite spraying my legs with insecticide at the beginning of the day. There has been a lot of walking through long grass. I wondered about when I take a pee in the bush??? Mmm
    I walked through a horse farm and there was a zebra in with some donkeys. And when I was walking along a bush track I passed this old man with a tractor about the same age. Not what I expected to see. I only passed 4 pilgrims so the numbers are getting less the further north I be go. One photo is not too clear but it shows a chingale (wild boar) hoof print in the middle of is ruttings.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 31 Pontremoli to Previde

    May 25, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    What a beautiful walk today. Up nearly 700m in the trees and over the passo della Crocetta (698m). Up for 14 stations of the cross and a chapel at the top. While it has always been a place of shelter for pilgrims the chapel was not built until 1841. Then it was down and around to my refuge for the night ( although I did get there early as I have divided my climb up the passo della Cisa into 2 days. I passed a nativity scene made of stone seemingly in the middle of nowhere. There were numerous stream crossings and waterfalls and occasional views of the valley that I have just climbed out of. No views of the passo della Cisa that I am to climb tomorrow. 1000m ascent in 11 km.
    It is days like today and tomorrow that I am glad that I am going opposite to others so no one knows how slow I’m going 🐌    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    11

    Day 32 Previde to Cisa Pass

    May 26, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    Today was awesome 800m ascent up the cuccherro pass the over yo the Cisa pass ( it fits at 1053m I think). There were a few stream crossings but one had an awesome suspension bridge that was very mobile while walking across. I have left Tuscany for about the 3 rd time today but this time for good as I am firmly in the Emilia Romano Provence. I stopped a lot partly to catch my breath but partly to see the awesome views all around me. I sat on the Big Red Chair for a while to take it all in. There was a hobbit house just below what I think was a trig. I then passed some wild horses and and finally when I made it to the Cisa pass went into a church sanctuary like no other at the top of the passo della Cisa.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 33 Passo della Cisa ro Cassio

    May 27, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    A pretty bleak day. It started in Rain and finished in the cloud. I walked the road to my destination down the little used cisa pass road as now most traffic uses the tunnels and autostrada. It made for quick walking and I was so glad to reach my Ostello for the night. The sun is trying to come out now. I took a couple of photos but photos of fog don’t make interesting viewing. Anyway I don’t feel like stopping. Tomorrow is forecast cloudy but no rain so all is good in Emila-Romagna.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 34 Cassio to Fornovo di Taro

    May 28, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 25 °C

    Say good bye to the Apennine mountains that I have just climbed over and say hello to the Po valley - the heart of Italian industry. A gecko finally stopped long enough for me to photo it. The farmers are in the fields cutting the hay. I found some real Italian hay bales. The 20km today was mainly on quiet sealed country roads and made the feet hot as the day progressed. I said hi to a Knight Templar and a Bear guarding a barn ??? and I was photographed by 2 Italian men on 2 separate occasions. I think I’m a bit of a celebrity- solo female, all the way from NZ, and that I started in Rome heading for Canterbury.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1

    Day 35 and 36

    May 30, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Piacenza and a rest day. I had fallen behind schedule due to the halving of some stages to get over the Apennines. The alps were challenging and oddly more mentally challenging than physically. I have spent a relaxed 2 days getting to and around Piacenza
    One thing I am trying to do is not be a purist and try to be flexible. Talking to the pilgrims each night there are very few that walk every single km of the VF. There are few men that are doing it and they tend to do 30km or more most days and pound it out. Most walk in a linear fashion but catch the bus or train at sections that they don’t want to do. The Po valley which I am entering is one section that few pilgrims walk. I will do a couple of stages and see how I feel about it.
    Day 35 Just by chance I called in to the Teatro ticket office in Piacenza to see what was in their upcoming concerts and Riccardo Muti is conducting Beethoven symphony no 7, Coriolano overture, and Mozart concerto no 4 for violin and orchestra tonight! for €13 I got a ticket. Who would think one day I would be hiking through mud and the next going to a concert by a world renowned conductor.
    Day 36, time to do washing, visit the sport store for electrolytes and a new pair of socks. Went to the Duomo and heard the end of the organists practice, rested up in the afternoon watching the giro di Italia and took myself off to dinner (tortelli ricotta and spinach with sides of salad and potato). On the whole I’m not too impressed with Piacenza and it’s certainly not why I remember. It seems quite run down and dirty with litter everywhere. The old town is mostly a residential town with beautiful churches and Teatro. Even in the old part of town You have to dodge cars busses, cyclists and motorbikes all going at top speed. In the alps the nights were cold and the days just right for walking. Now I am on the plans it is hot. The temp today is low of 18 and high of 29.. this means my 26km will include carrying an extra litre of water    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 37 Piacenza to Orio Litta

    May 31, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 28 °C

    Not too many photos today as the scenery didn’t really change. I walked over the bridge out of Piacenza and in doing so left Emilia Romagna and entered Lombardia. Then spent the rest of the day walking along the embankment of the Po river. I went through one little village with a church but no cafe/bar. The temperature leaving Piacenza at 7am was already 19°c by the time I finished 27km later it was 29°c. There was no shade, no seats and it was sealed road all the way. I developed a rash on my legs called a Disney rash (exercise induced vasculitis) from the heat and exercise. In Orio Litta the is a place called Villa Orio Litta Carini built by Giovanni Ruggeri in the 1880s now owned by the Carini family. On the whole a difficult day in the heat which I would prefer not to repeat.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 38 Orio Litta to Pavia

    June 1, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    My accommodation in Belgioioso got my booking wrong and they realised today is Sunday. They are closed Sundays. So I managed to get a room in Pavia but this was too far to walk in the 29°c heat (over 34km) so I took the train to Belgiosio and only gave me 16 km. Not many photos as the landscape was the same as yesterday and not very excitingRead more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Ponte Coperto
    Filming a movieRice fieldsWater wheel to facilitate a step down in the canal and aerate the water

    Day 39 Pavia to Garlasco

    June 2, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    The day was different to yesterday. I left at 6.15 to use the cooler morning and then there was a light cloud cover for a few hours. Most of the day was dominated by mosquitos like only to down in Milford Sound . The walk spent a few hours walking along the Ticino river. Thousands of mosquitos swarmed and even if you were moving it didn’t stop them. Thank goodness for Bushman’s insect repellent. The rest mostly followed a canal that was used for crops mostly rice and corn. The temperature again went to 30°c so I’m no not sure I’d want to walk the next few sections as they are long and on cropped plains = no trees. I’ll see what the mornings brings.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Public libraryA cave scene of Mary an Jesus in a church in the middle of nowhereCorn on the leftRice on the rightMy accommodation for the night

    Day 40 Garlasco to Mortara

    June 3, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Today’s walking is brought to you by straight lines. Fields after field of rows of either rice or corn. Long straight farms roads, railway lines and trees.
    There was an abundance of wild
    Life today but nothing would let themselves be photographed. There were vibrant lie dragon flies and beautiful deep red ones too. Rabbits and cats that ran away every time I got the camera out, Frogs that stayed hidden in the canal weeds and birds chirping in the trees.
    The day despite the long and straight lies was pleasant because it was overcast most of the day.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1

    Day 41 Mortara to Vercelli

    June 4, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Today’s update is brought to you by Rice Fields and buses 🚌 . Dry rice fields, muddy rice fields, flooded rice fields, draining rice fields, and filling rice fields. Get the idea - no photos as it gets a little monotonous. So much that after 20km I got the bus for that last 6km. I was going to take the train but there was a sudden train strike. To make it even more interesting the bus driver didn’t want to take any money. = free. Also the Ostello was closed today at my 20km mark. I arrived in Vercelli just as it started to rain. I visited the Basilica which was beautiful. Photos of churches never come out very good. The Ostello has wonderful hostesses and said dinner won’t be until 8pm (that is so late when you have hauled a pack kms through rice fields). But we are to have a guest - the archbishop. The Ostello’s belong to the church and I guess he is coming to check us out. I had better behave. Luciano Condina is his name. I like him because of him we got strawberries and ice cream for desert.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 42 Rest day travel to Santhia

    June 5, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌩️ 20 °C

    I’m feeling pretty tired and so I turned a 28km day into a rest day. It’s only been a week since my last rest day but my body is saying it needs a rest. Also I am aware that Grand Saint Bernard Pass is 10 days away. It’s odd a 28km 6 hour slog through rice fields took 15 minutes by train. 🚂
    The Ostello is an interesting place as it is not one building with a dormitory or two, it has 4 places each with 4 - 6 beds in. Not much else except for a bathroom and a jug and microwave with a dining table to sit around. It’s all you need though. Washings done, the horses have been fed, and I have the place to myself tonight. it is lightening and raining outside. So an early night it will be.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1Something doesn't add up here4A path just for me1A peak of lake Viverone

    Day 43 Santhia to Viverone

    June 6, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 24 °C

    Finally I am reaching the end of the Po valley. The day was a very slight up hill which made things so much nicer to walk a see.
    It was a short day but nice to be able to take my time after the rest day yesterday. The hills are appearing and I have a small view of the lake from my room. It is an interesting room with unicorns for bed posts.
    I saw a polystyrene house. From a distance it looked like black bricks. The farms were corn, wheat, and rice.
    I walked through a fairy wood with lots of mosquitoes.
    On the whole a nice days walk with some elevation and hills and things to see. I don’t think I will see too much agriculture for a while. 🥰    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Lago Viverone
    A happy succulentPiveroneChiesa San RoccoChiesa dei Santi Pietro e Paolo.Dora Baltea riverMy Ostello for the night

    Day 44 Viverone to Ivrea

    June 7, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Today the path took m along narrow country roads along vineyards and through little country towns. Cars beeping as the go around blind bends and cyclists speeding past little old ladies.
    Yr he one wooded area had a small lake or should I call it a swamp. Mosquitoes 🦟 again. I don’t know how people can go and enjoy the park when they are slapping themselves silly.
    My room overlooks the river and it has a slalom canoe course in it. And some people were out taking the horses for a drive.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1

    Day 45 Ivrea to Ponte Saint Martin

    June 8, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Today was awesome. After the Po valley walking I couldn’t stop looking at the mountains in front of me. I still had a bit of road walking but I also got to walk up a mountain on a Roman road, scrambled through gaps in rocks and walked passed some sort of grotto. See the video. It made me think of the stories of the Italian resistance in WWII hiding in the hills.
    I was walking into a town called Borgofranco and a lady called out to me Buon Camino, dove vai? So I said thank you I’m going to Canterbury. She then made me a coffee with biscuits. So sweet.
    The wild life today were 2 relaxed cats and and a pretty shiny beetle.
    I have now left the Piedmont region and entered the Aosta Valley. My Hotel is 100m inside the Aosta region according to the street sign.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Ponte Saint Martin
    An old Roman road and archwayThere's still snow on the tops of the mountainsFrescoes still remain from 11C on the outside of the housesBard CastlePonte EchallodVerres castleView from my window

    Day 46 Ponte Saint Martin to Verres

    June 9, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    It has been a day walking through history. Ponte Saint-Martin is a Roman bridge from the 1st C BC , connecting the Roman road and archway complete with cart ruts. The road is one of the major historic exhibits on the via Francigena so I made a video of me walking along it. Bard castle and town dates back to 11C. It all is part of the via Della Gallie .
    Verres castle was built in the Middle Ages as a military fortress. It is one of the earliest examples of a fortress being built as a single structure and not many structures joined together. I passed an example of an old grape press.
    It is pretty windy here today although the sun is out. There is still snow up on the peaks of the mountains and the Col san Bernard pass has only just opened with lots of snow around. I’m not sure if I’ll walk up and I don’t do snow hiking. I end the day with an impressive view from my window. A great day for a walk.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    So high so soon
    1Some kind soul out beers out for Anyone needing it.Landscaping

    Day 47 Verrès to Chatillon

    June 10, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    It was a big day ascending 737m. Up and the down and then up again. Sideling the valley. It was a day of castles and views. I can’t stop looking at the mountains some still snow capped. The highest one is Monte Zerbion and it is 2719m high and has ritual processions up it through the stations of the cross to the statue of the Virgin Mary at the top.. The only down side of today is that down in the valley is a motorway and also the main road feeding the towns and villages. This means that while up on the beautiful slopes of the Aosta valley there is always quite loud vehicle noise breaking the tranquility. My favourite drink at the moment is Chino. It is a bitter drink made from the fruit of the Myrtle leaves orange tree and tastes like bitter cola.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Aussie pilgrimsAosta valleyMountains1My friend the donkey

    Day 48 Chatillon to Nus

    June 11, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 18 °C

    Wow I am so glad I split up the days to Aosta. By the time I arrived in Nus it was only 1pm but it was already 31°c. I couldn’t have done another 15km in this heat. It is difficult because if I leave early about 6.30am I arrive way too early for the Ostello’s as they don’t usually open until about 3pm. This morning I left a bit later and I finished in the heat and was still early for the Ostello. The first time I had time (and there was a cafe open) for a ham salad for lunch. Continuing along the north side of the Aosta valley I passed lots of old abandoned houses and villages. Apparently the were from years ago when the farmers raised crops in the summer due to the favourable climate. They lived there in the summer and went home to where when it was winter. While walking along these abandoned houses I met 2 Australian women who started in Lausanne. They very kindly gave me 10 Swiss francs as it was no good to them now in Italy. Thanks Girls 🤩 I’ll have a Coffee for you! I passed a donkey and a horse and we had a bit of a chat - just about the weather.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 49 Nus to Aosta

    June 12, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    It was an easy day today due to the shorter distance and the minimal ascent. It was a little sad to know that it is my last day along the Aosta valley but I won’t be sad to say good bye to the 31°c afternoon heat. Even the wind is warm.
    The benefit of arriving early is that I was able to go shopping. 🥾 my Topo’s have done over 800km so I’m not surprised they are starting to get holes. Unfortunately I couldn’t get the same but Hoka’s will do. Thankfully Jim had scouted out a couple of places for me to look to save my feet.
    The days walking was along the side of the hill and some of it was on “the Rus”. A road created along an old water reticulation system. Its main use present day is as a water run-off system rather than irrigation.
    I passed Quartz castle which is undergoing restoration.
    The houses are taking in a Swiss look and the animals have Swiss neck bells which you can hear a long way off.
    Aosta is a mixed town of old and new. There are bits of the town wall left and also part of the old gate into the town.
    I have a rest day here and I have some decisions to make. I’m getting worried about climbing the Col Grand San Bernard Pass. The 2 lots of pilgrims I passed today have just come over it and they say it is not walkable is some sections and the lake is still frozen, lots of snow. I’m not confident in those conditions so Mmmmm. 🧐🤔    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    I'm still in ItalyNow I'm in Switzerland2

    Day 50 and 51

    June 14, 2025 in Switzerland ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Rest day in Aosta Unfortunately I didn’t get to do much as I developed food poisoning after dinner last night Lucky I didn’t eat much of it as I was expecting a hot Japanese bento bowl but instead it was cold and the soup base tasted horrible. I said on leaving that I was expecting a hot bowl and I couldn’t eat it. the guy replied that it was summer what it was cold. I went out to stretch my new shoes and to buy some Imodium I slept for a few hours in the afternoon but still feel tired and went to bed early.
    A day of fasting.
    So food poisoning has made up my mind for me it’s the bus tomorrow to the Grand Saint Bernard pass tomorrow as I’m so washed out. so I can be in a special place on a special day (Jim’s Birthday) 🎁
    Day 51 still fasting as I don’t trust my self with food and feeling a little nauseous I negotiated the Italian bus transport system and got up to the Col-Grand-San-Bernardo pass. The people staying at the Refuge were mostly there for the feast day of Saint Bernard so busier than I thought. Others were climbers, hikers, cyclists, and just travellers. I managed a little soup for dinner.    Read more

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