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Via Francigena
  • Carolyn Hyde
  • Carolyn Hyde

Via Francigena

Walking Europe, Via Francigena in reverse. From Rome to Canterbury. 3 months on the road walking solo through Italy, Switzerland, France and England.
Key words. - tolerance, patience, and understanding Read more
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  • Trip start
    April 24, 2025
    Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    It is Time

    April 23, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 21 °C

    I think i killed the Pope! He was so worried that I would ask for an audience and pilgrim blessing he thought …. no way …… I’m out of here.
    So It is time to follow through with my plans.
    I have arrived in Rome amongst the mourning frenzy at the Vatican.. The window of my room looks out to the back wall of the Vatican (and the road ) .
    About 28hrs travelling done.
    Day 0 overnight Rome
    Tomorrow I start walking. Jet lag or no!    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 1: A Day of Remberance. Leaving Rome

    April 25, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Day 1. Roma to la Storta
    Today is a day of remembrance and reflection as it is ANZAC day in NZ and also Italy is celebrating liberation day and the mourning period for the pope.
    Stats
    21.5km, 6hrs 10min, elevation 376 ascent, 244 descent.
    There was lots of road walking today with the middle section in a regional park where the weeds seemed bigger than the trees but it was nice to hear the bird song.. I passed lots of pilgrims heading to Rome. There were about 5 groups of about 4-11 people and one woman on her own all finishing this afternoon in Rome. Most of them started about 4-5 days ago.. my legs by the end couldn’t have taken any me any further. I did resist catching a bus the last few Km along a road where the foot path was impassable due to weeds and I had to walk on the road.. the cars don’t slow down but they all moved to give me lots of room.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 2 la Storta to Campagnano di Roma

    April 25, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 18 °C

    I was surprised that I could walk today after how I felt at the end of yesterday.. surprisingly I managed 23.8km with 623 m ascent and 500m descent. But it was slow walking today taking 6hrs 14 min including the rest stops up the hills to settle my heart rate.
    The day was mainly on tacks through farm land and regional parks with a little country roads. Very pleasant and relaxing walking stayed at an amazing Donativo with food for both dinner and breakfast.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 2 trail Angels

    April 26, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C

    While I was looking for a cafe/bar in Formello and a couple approached me and said follow us. They bought me lunch. A cappuccino and a pastry. Thank you Antonio and Christina. They even gave me their phone number in case I needed anythingRead more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 3 Campagnano to Sutri

    April 27, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    Great Hostel today and there was only the 2 of us he was a lovely Italian man but was a snorer so not too much sleep last night. Another beautiful day of walking through the Rome countryside. I must say their parks are weed parks. No trees or native bush(if they have such a thing) full of thistles hook grass and nettles. I do love the wild poppies that come up. It’s Sunday and so there was nothing open on the route apart from the churches. Services were on so I couldn’t go inside. Lunch ended up a bag of potato chips left over from when I was in Rome. No wonder I was shattered by the time I finished. Sunny all day with No shade the second part of the day and it was hot. I finally rolled into Sutri and thunder rolled over head with big black clouds releasing big slow drops of rain.
    Stats for the day 24.8 km with 361m elevation    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 4 Sutri to Vetralla

    April 28, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    I had a little time this morning to look around town but alas it is Monday and most things are closed. I went to light a candle for my animals with Saint Francis, my favourite Saint. Paid my donativo but the lighter wouldn’t light the candle!! Will he still get my message I wonder? Then I went into a chapel dedicated to Saint Jude Taddeus patron saint of lost causes. ,haha so I said a few words with him and what do u know I received a testimonium via email. Vetralla is also closed being Monday tonight staying at ostello.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 5 Vetralla to Viterbo

    April 28, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    The Ostello last night was like “close”. 5 beds in one room the size of a NZ double. No kitchen just a bathroom. I was up at 6 and off. A banana and water for breakfast after a few kms waking. It was a beautiful morning clear skies and the heavy dew was on the trees and grass. About half way there was a picnic table and it seemed like everyone was stopping. I spent about half an hour just sitting airing my wet feet and talking with others doing the same. Italians, Slovakian, Americans, Canadians,. I stood in a puddle and dew grass. I did miss a turn (you might notice it on the video) that cost me a km. Most of the walk was along farm tracks through olive groves and hazelnut tree groves.
    The milestone today was I hit 100km - that is the official distance to Rome.
    I love the wild poppies. There were so many today.tonight is a much nicer Monastery and they even do a pilgrim dinner for us €15. I can smell it cooking as I type. Talking of smell I notice the smell of wild fennel as I walked. today and I passed about 50 pilgrims but o lost count after that. 18km    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Wow what a cemeteryLago BolsenaIt lies. I have already done 133km????My digs for the night

    Day 6 Viterbo to Montefiascone

    April 30, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Last night at the Ostello I met some really interesting people as we all sat around for a pilgrims dinner and talked afterwards. The days walk took a few km to get out of town and I exited the city past a cemetery like you have never seen multi stories and multiple buildings. Thought farmers fields and muddy farm tracks I saw amazing fields of wild flowers. It was beautiful. The photos don’t do it justice. Then I hit the Roman road. It was humbling to think that I was walking on sticks that the Roman slaves had laid. This made for difficult walking though and the up hill began and didn’t stop until I got the la Rocca 450m. A fantastic view of lake Bolsena. I’m staying at a nunnery and went to Vespers all in Italian and the chapel was cold. It was built in 680 AD and has had Benedictine nuns since. I Had a beautiful pilgrim dinner of pasta primo, beef patty with tomato sauce secondo, with fennel and tomatoes. An apple for dessert. A glass of local white wine with it. Only 2 other pilgrims tonight , A woman from Holland and a man from ItalyRead more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    2

    Day 7 Montefiascone to Bolsena

    May 1, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    After a few kms to get out of the town again the majority of the walk was through farmland, forest park and bush. There was even a portion of single track like NZ. Although it was only 18km today a lot of it was down hill and hard on sore feet and knees.
    I met a fellow kiwi. Karen from Wellington and her and her husband were cycling 🚴 2 weeks and ending in Rome
    When I got to Bolsena it was buzzing with people something like a fish festival and Labour Day holiday. Real Italian pizza for sustenance. I think I will have my first gelato of the trip after dinner tonight    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 8 Rest day Bolsena

    May 2, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    A bit of a lazy day today as it’s a scheduled test day. My body is feeling good only one small blister ( managed ) but I need to recoup my energy levels. after doing my washing I walked to the lake front and had a cappuccino and pastry for breakfast. Then I went shopping for some electrolytes for the hot days ( which are most days). I then went and looked through the Basilica of Santa Christina who is still lying there for all to see. Sorry no photos allowed.
    Pizza for dinner and a spare for tomorrow’s walk.
    The rest of the day is here writing this and talking to Jim.
    Bolsena in 1263 is known when during a Mass in the Basilica of Santa Cristina, the consecrated host (Christina) began to bleed, an event that strengthened the faith of the doubting priest.I’m off to Aquapendente tomorrow so I’ll see you there.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 9 Bolsena to Aquapendente

    May 3, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    A day of 2 halves. Trying to leave town the street was closed but I saw that people lived in the street so I climbed over. The street was straight up. Then I got to the top and found the castle with a beautiful view. The first 12 km were through beautiful Forrest and farmlands. I saw wild deer bounding across my path and too quick to get a photo. I was passed by a Pilgrim in horseback ( no photo as he hardly said hi), also I met 2 very friendly cats. Then the last 12 km it was through ploughed fields of dust. Lodgings for the night are tough and pizza for dinner.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1

    Day 10 Aquapendente to Radicofani

    May 4, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 18 °C

    Overcast day today an in the colder side I think due to the wind and I’m up an exposed hill. Today’s walk was going to be 800m total elevation with the last rise 600m. As I was huffing and puffing up the big hill at the end a car stopped and asked if I wanted a ride the rest of the way, I’m not proud so I said Si, per favore . 2km climbing mt Everest avoided. This allowed me to dump my 9kg backpack and take a walk up to Fortezza di Radicofani, a further 250m up the hill. It was built stating 100AD and finally finished in around 400AD.
    Dunch (dinner and lunch) was a plate of porchetta and pane with cafe con latte. I darent ask for a cappuccino after 12.
    A focaccia con porchetta to go for lunch tomorrow on the road.
    I am now in Tuscany having passed the Lazio border today.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 11 Radicofani to Gallina

    May 5, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 20 °C

    Today I divided a 33km stage in 2. So I only did about 19km. A very pleasant distance although the down hill is hard on your knees. The morning started off in the clouds it was quite eery. The whole day there was a cold wind. It rained but not torrential so all good as my raincoat kept me warm and dry. Now that I am in Tuscany the countryside is looking quite like New Zealand. The Ostello is full of one Japanese and the rest are French people. I passed a nice Australian couple and had a chat but I didn’t get their names.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 12 Gallina to San Quirico d’orcia

    May 6, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌧 11 °C

    The day was going to be wet and it didn’t disappoint. The clouds on the horizon when I left were ominous and the thunder was like nothing I’d heard before. It was loud and went on for about 15 seconds. Not much lightning though.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Ice cream anyone?The biggest chocolate fountain I've seen

    Day 13 and 14 San Quirico to Siena

    May 8, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    Day 13 - started with lots of rain again and spirits low, poor sleep in the Ostello, no food in my pack or to get something to eat on the way today and nowhere to rest out of the rain on the path today. so in practicing flexibility after about 7km I walked back to San Quirico and caught the bus to Buonconvento. So I still did about 14 km without getting struck by lightening. Now I am in an apartment dry and with food in my stomach.
    Day 14 - my watch cable is not working so I need the day in Siena trying to find a replacement. My Garmin watch is important as it gives me all my data. This meant a train ride to Siena.
    Well 15000 steps around Siena and it’s now 6pm and by chance I found one in a $2 phone shop. Such a sigh of relief.
    Tomorrow I will continue my journey by foot
    Photos of Siena    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 15 Siena to Montereggioni

    May 9, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The sky today looks a lot better in leaving Siena. Some people rave about the city but I still don’t warm to it. Maybe because once the sights have been seen (you pay to see the duomo) you can only shop and eat.
    What a great days walk. The Weather was perfect cloudy with bits of sunshine but not hot. Mostly through forest and at times along muddy tracks but it is always nice to hear the birds and again a cuckoo’s singing. I passed two trail angel places one supper large with wine, cappuccini, cakes, drinks all for donation. A group of Italian men came along and had two bottles of wine. I’m not sure when they would arrive at their destination. Monteriggioni is small and buzzing but full of character and atmosphere. What a great day I have had. 20km with ok not 400m elevation.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 16 Montereggioni to Colle vsl d’Elsa

    May 10, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    A shorter day today and tomorrow to divide a 30km section. The sun rise over the town wall was beautiful. Today includes 2 crossings of the Elsa river. Yesterday a couple told me they were frightened due to the current after previous rain days. Today it was fine hardly any water in the crossings. A short day of which I am grateful as I seem to have a small blister. It is not a very exciting part of town that I am in although the Ostello is fabulous. Newly renovated with room for about 25 people and so far there are 3 of us. Nice 👍. I’ll get to see the historic town in the morning when I pass through on my way to San Gimignano.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
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    Day 17 Colle Val d’Elsa to San Gimignano

    May 11, 2025 in Italy ⋅ 🌩️ 14 °C

    Another 15 km day but although shortish it was quite tough with 490m ascent. There was also quite a lot of asphalt walking. The ups and downs were through farmers fields of grape vines and olive groves. I’m not so good at walking the ups. San Gimignano is humming. I will treat myself to a gelato when most of the crowds have gone. I saw a cinghiale (wild bore and a local delicacy) riding a vesper in a shop. 2 local icons. There was a man dressed in costume and he looked like he was some sort of preacher. He looked pretty serious.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 18 San Gimignano to Gambassi Terme

    May 12, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 14 °C

    Another fine day and one walking through the Chianti region. Short in km’s but high in ascent 415 m for the distance called. Tonight’s Ostello is a great place. Clean and old. Attached to the back of an old church. A shared dinner with the other walkers and a tour through the church after dinner. Tonight There are a lot of French older people that have come walk sections from 3 to about 7 days.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1
    Abandoned houseSt Francis - my favourite Saint

    Day 19 Gambassi Terme to San Miniato

    May 13, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Another day of walking through the Tuscan countryside. It only got hot towards mid afternoon at the end. 25km with 506m ascent.
    I am staying and a Franciscan convent and it is huge. It is a place time forgot. It is a shared meal but not until 7.45pm . I’m starving how can they have dinner so late don’t they know I’ve walked 26 km with 9kg on my back?
    I passed 2 sign posts today one said Rome 312km and a few kms further on one said 343km gosh I walk fast. Today thee were about 4 old abandoned farmhouses. They would be awesome restored.
    Total 285km and one blister    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler

    Day 20 san Miniato to Galleno

    May 14, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    The morning started fighting wet weeds waist height but then it led j to a place called Fuccechio. Sat the piazza to dry my feet and had a late breakfast of cappuccino and donut and a chinotto drink that tasted like a cross between sasparella and bitters. Very refreshing talking to Jim while I drink. I think one of the bridges I crossed was over the Arno river. I missed it so it can’t be that grand yet. The Next leg of the day took me through a town called Ponte a Cappiano. Famous for it covered over bridge. A rebuilt Medici bridge and the Cappiano hill behind it. Their is now a Ostello in the bridge.. The last part was through forest 4 wheel drive tracks ending at Galleno where my room mate was Erina a psychologist from the Veneto region. She is Walking to Rome from Lucca for the second time.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
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    Day 21 Galleno to Badia Pozzeveri

    May 15, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    I spent the morning walking to my
    Ostello. I walked through Altopascio and it was market day. The place was humming. I had breakfast of a pastry and cappuccino as the Italians seem to have. Who am I to buck the trend. Not much further was my Ostello. What a fantastic place. It’s donation only and there are 4 people greeting those who are staying or just passing through. Offering wine, coffee, water, cakes and biscuits to whoever pass on the Camino. I am the only one staying here tonight (so far). They invited me to lunch as well as dinner. I was shown the church attached to the Ostello which has archeological work being done including the examination to exhumed pilgrims stomachs to see what they had eaten. There are some photos of the frescoes on the ceiling of the church. Once the archeological work has been compiled then they will do a study on if it is possible to restore or just preserve what is there already.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    1
    1

    Day 22 Badia Pozzeveri to Lucca

    May 16, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    All the volunteers got up to have a coffee with me before leaving this morning. It just shows what an awesome bunch they are. The most exciting part of the day was talking to a little rabbit just after u started but it was camera shy and ran away. Garmin gave the days walk 36m ascent and I think it was being generous. It was probably all the curbs i stepped up. Walking pavements and sealed roads all day so I was glad when I got to Lucca. Only 15km but tomorrow is a rest day and so I’ll get to do my laundry, see some churches and old art, but rest my legs (the whole point of a rest day).
    I did get a glimpse of the hills I will have to climb in the next few days. Yes it is the bottom of the Appennines. Hence rhe rest day.    Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    Old amphitheater1My certificate ... not sure what for ... maybe just being a pilgrimPilgrim labyrinthThe old cross being restoredIn the floor and everyone was walking over himCarved marble sarcophagus for a local wealthy woman

    Day 23 Rest day Lucca

    May 17, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 20 °C

    Today I went to a laundromat and washed all my clothes apart from what I was wearing. Coffee and pastry while o was waiting for it. Hand washing daily does not really clean things properly. Then I Wandered around the city and found the Duomo to get myself a stamp. They also gave me a certificate which I think is the story of the Bishop of Lucca’s pilgrimage. The Duomo also has the pilgrims labyrinth on the outside. Puccini memorial is also on the wall of the duomo. It is his birth place and did a lot of his composing there. Lunch was bruschetta in a piazza. Maybe the tomato tree made me think I needed tomatoes. There is an old Roman amphitheater in the middle of town which some of he outside has been retained but the majority has been turned into houses and shops. Then back to my room to rest my feet and start repacking my backpack for tomorrow. It’s going to be the longest day yet about 26km with a huge hill in the middle.Read more

  • Carolyn HydeVia FrancigenaTraveler
    2Tempe view from my window

    Day 24 Lucca to Camaiore

    May 18, 2025 in Italy ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    The days started off in the quite streets of Lucca where I passed Puccini’s house and left the suburbs to walk along the canal for about 5 km. While walking along country roads I was passed by a lot of cyclists. Some obviously professionals but most were men out for a Sunday ride but with all the kit. Then it was uphill which was more like a water run off than a waking track and I had to do some track maintenance to get through. The blackberries had climbed through the overhanging trees. I don’t know how yesterday’s people got through apart from crawling on hands and knees. Once I got to Montemanga the view was fantastic.Read more

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