Aug 20-24: My epic journey continues 1

I took the 0925 Acela train to Boston. I'd always desired to see it, and thought I'd catch Amtrak's "Lake Shore Limited" from there back to Chicago to continue my foray into Colorado. However, the section from Boston to Albany, NY, was not running due to some track work and was operating as an Amtrak coach. So, I went up to Boston, spent a day there, and returned to D.C. in order to head west. I couldn't get the bedroom I wanted on the "Lake Shore Limited" section out of New York City (that would normally amalgamate with the Boston section at Albany), hence returning to D.C. to go west on the "Floridian"

Amtrak's "Acela" product is electrifying (pun intended). It runs from Washington D.C., through NYC (actually--via Penn Station--a fair way beneath it) and on to Boston in less than 6½ hrs. All of the 454-mile/731-km of the route is 'owned' by Amtrak and known as the Northeast Corridor. It is the busiest passenger rail line in the United States by ridership and service frequency. In numerous sections, the train easily attains and cruises at 150 mph (240 km/h).

I took the Hop-on/Hop-off bus in Boston, walked around a bit, and learnt enough to know I'd like to return and spend a few days there. Then it was back to D.C. on "Acela" with a scheduled few hours to spend at Union Station before catching the "Floridian" for an overnight run back to Chicago.

The scheduled 'few' hours stretched out to a few more, before the train--delayed down in Florida by heat restrictions that affect the rails--finally arrived, was serviced, and we were able to board. Still, it didn't get dark until after Martinsburg.

But it was a catering disaster. The crew appeared to have NO idea and we in the 7:00 pm sitting for dinner sat at our table for almost 2 hrs before the food arrived. We even had to suggest to the (solitary) waiter that he might bring the bread rolls in the meantime and offer us some vino. When the food finally arrived, the portions were about 50% of what we normally got on the Amtrak diner table. I might find out what happened if Amtrak deign to respond to my email.

So, an 8:38 am arrival into Chicago became something closer to midday. No wurries... the California Zephyr wasn't scheduled to depart until 2:00 pm. Departure was near enough to on time, and this time we 'headed' out of the terminal, not backwards. I was soon along to the Sightseer Lounge for a beverage and some scenery. The western suburbs of Chicago and the plains east of Naperville are not particularly scenic, but I was seated beside a bio-scientist so I learned a lot about the farming we saw. I learned that llinois is a major agricultural state, known primarily for its production of corn and soybeans (of which I saw plenty), ranking first and second in the U.S. respectively for these key crops. Other significant crops include wheat, hay, and sorghum, alongside a variety of specialty crops such as pumpkins, apples, peaches, and horseradish.

I was in the diner, and unprepared as we suddenly entered onto the BNSF Railroad drawbridge over the Mississippi River at Burlington. Bugger! I had no camera to hand as we slid past the BNSF RR yard and commenced the climb out the valley and into Iowa.

My sleep that night was fitful, as it seemed to me that I could hear the regulation 'long-long-short-long' locomotive horn signal for EVERY level crossing in Iowa, Nebraska, and eastern Colorado. There must be a level crossing every half mile in some places, as it sometimes seemed incessant.

I awoke somewhere out on the Colorado prairie, took a shower (unlike the "Floridian", this was comfortably warm), dressed, and waddled off to the diner for a Signature Amtrak 3-egg omelette. We were only in the outer suburbs of Denver when I announced to my table-mates that I must take my leave and find a seat in the Sightseer Lounge while I could. Turned out the crowd didn't start arriving until we pulled out of Denver Union station quite some time later, onto Union Pacific's Moffat Subdivision.

But what a thrill to watch those two GE diesels up front bite into the grade at a steady 30 mph. The train is scarcely out of the city before the climb into the front range of the Rockies commences. We wind around the famous Big Ten Curve and keep climbing. After many curves and many tunnels (there are 28 between Denver and the Moffat Tunnel) through many precipitous ridges, we cruise along several deep valleys and follow the South Boulder Creek for several scenic miles. Eventually, we run down another lengthy valley and the conductor announces the "Moffat Tunnel". All necks are craned and eyes are peeled as we pass a track maintenance depot and plunge into over 6 miles of darkness beneath Rollins Pass and the Continental Divide, during which we will attain an elevation of 9,239 ft. About 12 minutes later, we emerge into sunlight at the Winter Park Ski Resort village, and begin our long descent to my destination for today, Grand Junction, CO.

Our run down to Grand Junction takes us alongside many miles of the upper reaches of the Colorado River. We see literally hundreds of kayakers, tubers, and white water rafters, all doing their particular thing on the piece of river that suits them. We also learn why locals have given this portion of the Colorado the nickname "Moon River". We stop for passengers at Glenwood Springs and Granby, before arriving at Grand Junction at 5:00 pm, 35 min late. I have a hotel very close to the station and also, for tomorrow, to an Enterprise Car Rental outlet.

Grand Junction sits at an elevation of 4,583 ft. This beats the MacKinnon Pass on New Zealand's Milford Track, that Colette and I hiked over some years ago, at 3,786 ft and might explain why I have the very faintest feeling of nausea as I haul my bags two blocks to my hotel. Sitting on the train, I hadn't noticed.

An interesting drive awaits, tomorrow!Meer informatie