Americas Great Loop

April - June 2025
Current
The Great Loop from Florida follows the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway, the Chesapeake and Delaware Bays, the Hudson River, the New York Canals, the Great Lakes, then south on the Inland Rivers to the Gulf Coast and back to FL to complete the Loop. Read more
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  • Canada
  • Mexico
  • United States
  • Australia
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Culture, Family, Group travel, Sailing, Sightseeing, Vacation, Wilderness, Wildlife
  • 36.3kkilometers traveled
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  • 73footprints
  • 64days
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  • Day 45: At Croton-On-Hudson

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    It's May 28. Preston headed off very early this morning--Graeme drove him to the station--to catch a train to Harlem from where he can get across to La Guardia and catch a direct flight to Traverse City. We expect him back on Saturday. One critical portion of the Erie Canal is still not open (due to remedial works being conducted, see image below), so we remain here at Croton for the time being.

    It started raining around midday--a gentle, silent rain-- and continued into the evening. We had a lazy day. I caught up with some tasks on my laptop and the others went for an exploratory drive around town. In the evening, we attended an 'open-mic' night that Lorraine had found was happening at one of the village's cafes. Interesting. Lorraine tried to get me up and recite a Banjo Patterson poem (I had previously refused to sing a song!), but no-one had sourced the words for me, so I was forced to decline.

    We might go for a train ride tomorrow.
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  • Day 44: At Croton-On-Hudson

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    This morning (27th May), in fine and sunny weather, we caught the MTA electric commuter service from C-O-H into Grand Central Terminal. There, we changed to the No. 7 subway line that now goes to 34th St and deposits you at 'Hudson Yards' - a short walk from the start of the High Line. We joined a throng of people all out to enjoy this masterpiece of planning, infrastructure renovation, and landscaping. Hopefully, our photos will serve to adequately reveal our almost 2-hr exploration. At the southern end of the High Line, you can descend onto Gansevoort St in the now-gentrified Meat Packing District and explore this dynamic location. But we were intent on a stroll a couple of blocks up 9th Ave to the Chelsea Markets.

    Jan and Lorraine browsed the bustling indoor market while Graeme and I chilled. Its history can be traced back to 1890 when the amalgamation of eight large eastern bakeries in New York formed the New York Biscuit Company. I was intent on leading my team to the superb lobster rolls made in the Lobster Place therein (which sells as much oyster meat as it does Maine lobster), so I was a tiny bit sad that when the time came to showcase this delicacy, only Graeme and I had managed an appetite. My fault, probably, for embarking on an oversell.

    From here, we caught a taxi across to 7th Ave and then up to Central Park where we alighted and were immediately accosted by the itinerant pedi-cab operators whom I fully expected and from whom I intended to rent two of them to take us on a 2-hr tour around Central Park. LSShort, one operator got to about $600 ("we'll take you back to your hotel afterwards", etc, etc) before a strategic walk-away resulted in us settling eventually on $300 for two cabs. He moaned about how he was going to feed his family, but Graeme countered with a comment about us having to feed a lot of chooks.

    Anyway, we had the ride around the 800-acre park and by all accounts of my party, it was a success. They wanted to charge me an extra $34 for using a credit card (state taxes as well as the surcharge, they said) but I was needing some ATM cash anyway, so we went across the street, got greenbacks; $300 for them and some for myself. So they were happy with that, and the Taxman, of course, is none-the-wiser. We taxied back to Grand Central Terminal, had tea at the Tartiniere, and caught the MTA for the 1-hr ride back to C-O-H. Home by 2000 after an eventful day.
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  • Day 43: At Croton-On-Hudson

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    No further word yet on the opening of the Erie Canal. We must assume, for now, that we're here at least for the duration of the week.

    Today, we'll have another go at getting across to the 'Woodstock Festival' museum in Bethel. We're hoping the traffic (off the Interstate) will be tolerable and the museum not too popular today. A full report later...

    Here then, is said report. We drove across the Bear Mountain Bridge once more and were not held up by traffic on a 1.5-hr trip through the verdant Orange County scenery of mid-state New York. Heavily forested, if this was SE Asia, it'd be called 'jungle'.

    Our destination was the Museum at Bethel Woods, otherwise grandly known as the Bethel Woods Centre For The Arts. This is a wonderfully-landscaped part of what was originally (56 years ago) Max Yasgur's dairy farm and the setting for the legendary 3-day Woodstock Music & Arts Fair of August 1969. The farm is now seven huge carparks and a VERY well-presented museum, events, and concert venue. But they've managed to retain the huge, grassy natural amphitheatre and sound stage area where the music festival was held, as well as the areas where the multitude camped. I was 16 and in my final year of high school when Woodstock was held but I was there in spirit at the time, and if radio 4ZB in Dunedin might not be counted on to play the music, I soon developed a familiarity with the performers and songs (many unknown to me that year) as soon as I started my working life in Dunedin in January 1970 and began to socialise, especially with the Varsity crowd.

    So this 'bucket-list' trip across New York State was the fulfilment of a long-held--if tentatively--aspiration. I'm so glad I got there, and that Jan and Graeme did too! Lorraine had decided to remain in Croton-On-Hudson to attend and experience a US Memorial Day Service and later to have a quiet day on the ship doing some drawing.

    We drove back to the marina and had dinner on board. And that, folks, was our wonderful Woodstock day.
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  • Day 42: At Croton-On-Hudson

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Nothing of great moment to report today. Preston cleaned the engineroom yesterday (have I not shown y'all the engine room of 45 North? Heavens to Betsy... my bad. Fleming owners are famous for their engineroom presentation; check the images with this Footprint). Anyway with his chores done, Preston took himself off today on an expedition, so we decided to do the same. Nothing too adventurous... just a drive around Westchester County.

    We thought the famous Croton Dam in the Croton Gorge National Park (a few short miles out of town) might be a good place to take our sammiches, so off we went only to find that about 457,000 other carloads had beaten us to it!

    So we retraced and set out south on US9 to see Crotonville and Ossining, which we did and then got lost and got as far as White Plains before we extricated ourselves and found our way back to Ossining and thence C-O-H, where we finally ate the sammiches we'd been carrying around and celebrated with cake in the Colonial Diner.

    So ended our second day at C-O-H where we're experiencing fine but cold weather on the United States' busiest holiday weekend. It's pretty miserable away down south at the moment, but we're expecting warmer temps up this way.

    We warmed ourselves somewhat by raising the 50' TV screen on the ship, and watching a YouTube video of Bob Dylan performing at Woodstock and butchering some of his original arrangements. Turned out we were watching a program called ‘Woodstock 1994' (organised for the 25th anniversary of the original 1969 festival) and billed as "2 More Days of Peace and Music." That should have jogged our memories.

    And we should have known we weren't watching something happening out at Yasgur's Farm in Bethel in 1969, because it's a matter of history that Dylan never performed at the Woodstock Festival. In fact, on the day it opened, he was on board the QE2, bound for England. But his band, originally The Hawks--and later known officially as The Band--DID perform, and covered some of Dylan's material. And we SHOULD have known it was 1994 we were watching, because Eric Clapton was on stage with Dylan... and Clapton was not at Woodstock 1969 either. But we love Bob anyway, so Hey... onya Bob!! 84 yrs young!
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  • Day 41: At Croton-On-Hudson, NY

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    The weather is a smidge brighter and we're preparing to depart for 'Woodstock' when Lorraine reminds us it's Bob Dylan's birthday--and therefore the perfect day to be driving over there (to Bethel) to visit the museum at the site of the famous 'Woodstock' Music Festival held in 1969 (actually the Woodstock Music Festival & Art Fair, and it wasn't even held at Woodstock, which is 45 miles away, as the crow flies, from the actual town of Woodstock, NY)--but it's also the start of Memorial Day Weekend, which means extra traffic on the highway, and POTUS and his red MAGA cap will be flying in to West Point to take the salute from the Class of 2025 (the United States Military Academy being just up the road a bit from Croton-On-Hudson), so, what with one thing and another, the day had the potential to be problematic, and so it was.

    After submitting you-all to the longest written sentence in the history of English writing, I owe you a couple of short ones, so here they are, We made four wrong turns after the iconic Bear Mountain Bridge but were finally on the right track when we came to a dead stop in a several-mile-long queue of vehicles, for a reason of which we knew not. We were stopped for long enough to know that our day was slipping away by the minute, so with the consensus of the committee, I chucked a U-ey and we joined a line of other motorists doing the same. Long story short, we didn't get to 'Woodstock', but might yet, before we leave here. Instead, we stopped for lunch at a roadside diner in a village called Fort Montgomery, then took a long afternoon's drive through the local forested countryside. We thought we'd go see what the 'Croton Falls' were all about, so drove to the village through the forested hills and along the serpentine country roads of Westchester County, only to find there WERE no falls, and the locals had no answer to why the name of their village. They did, though, seek to correct Jan and Lorraine on the pronunciation of 'Croton'. To these residents, it's Kroh-tin (which I have to say, it looks like it should be). But in our meanderings, we DID see Kia Ora Boulevard and the Kiwi Country Day Camp (about which they state, "The name is derived from the Kiwi bird. The Kiwi bird is a flightless bird, from New Zealand. Lou and H felt that through all the wonderful experiences that children would develop at Kiwi, in terms of building everlasting friendships, self-esteem and confidence would allow them to soar.")

    So we drove back to C-O-H, did a provisioning shop at ShopRite, had tea (sorry, 'dinner') at a great little diner in town--near which we saw two deer ambling through the forest, and to which I'll be returning for a breakfast!)--and returned to the ship. And thusly did our first day moored at C-O-H end.
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  • Day 40: NYC to Croton-On-Hudson

    May 23 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    5.5 hrs. There's low cloud (fog, actually) covering New York City today, but it's not raining. We receive a black-water pump-out by marina staff and are away just after 1000..

    Today, we'll motor up the Hudson for a short 36 miles or so and tie up in the Half Moon Bay Marina at Croton-On-Hudson ('Croton' rhymes with 'cotton'). We have to wait here until we've received news of progress in opening the Erie Canal. As soon as news of the delay became known some time ago, Preston hastened to get us an extension at our slip at Croton-On-Hudson, so we've got a secure berth while we wait to see what will happen. At this point, all we can say is that this delay might blow our schedule for getting to Traverse City out of the water... or it might not, and we'll be able to play catch-up. Everyone's just waiting to see what they might have to do regarding their onward travel plans. For me, it doesn't really matter, as I'm here until the end of the year. One other imperative is that Mon 26th is America's Memorial Day. Families celebrate and honour their fallen in all wartime conflicts, there are parades and events and a lot of people around. Memorial Day also marks the start of the nation's summer vacation season and the start of school holidays in some states. So we are doubly fortunate to have a secure berth to spend our scheduled few days in Croton-On-Hudson and to wait out the delay to the opening of the Erie Canal. Stopping in Croton-On-Hudson will provide further opportunity to get down to NYC and do the things we have planned, but for which we need clement weather.

    Our voyage upriver is against a strong ebb tide. The data screens show our 'Speed Over Ground' as around 7 mph, while 'Speed Through Water' is shown as around 10 mph; a 3-mph current against us.

    We arrive at Half Moon Bay Marina just after 1530, secure the boat, and wander into the village for a look-see.
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  • Day 39: New York City

    May 20 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 19 °C

    A rainy morning and very cool. Cloud low, so no point going up the Empire State Building. What to do today??

    We catch the 0930 ferry and stop at a restaurant near the Manhattan-side terminal. I have cunningly neglected to have Cornies for breakfast, so am able to have a plate of pastrami hash with eggs (sunny side) on top. The others decide it's time for brunch.

    Despite our misgivings about the cloud, we catch a Yellow Taxi to the Empire State Building only to find we've lost our bet... the staff advise there's no view from the top.

    Heigh-ho... we head off up 5th Ave on our toes while some of us window shop for some required garments. Jan gets a nice beanie. We get to Grand Central Terminal, but any enthusiasm to be there has dissipated, so after a cursory look by the others (and not before Lorraine has been sufficiently impressed--as were Colette and I six years ago--and shares a few images for the blog), we soon head off to Times Square to check on late tickets to a Broadway matinee. We score these in separate 2-seat locations to the musical The Great Gatsby in the Broadway Theatre.

    The theatre disgorges us in time to catch another Yellow Cab (we're not sufficiently au fait with the subway system to find our way back under the river on a PATH train and then Uber back to the marina) and we get to the ferry terminal area in time for a meal at our 'brunch restaurant' before catching the last ferry to the marina. En-route, the taxi dashboard screen is telling us the outside temp is 51 deg F (10-11 C). We've had one extra day here due to the delay ahead on the Erie Canal. I got the third night free, thanks to Preston and my membership of the AGLCA (yes... I'm trying to live down the fact that I'm officially a 'bLooper'). I'll take it.

    On arrival back at 45 North, we're much saddened to read the message that Murray Roy has succumbed to his illness and has passed on his birthday. Vale Murray, a cuzzy with whom we had many great childhood times!

    Tomorrow we will slip out of Liberty Landing and head up-river to Croton-On-Hudson for an indeterminate time ('Croton' rhymes with 'cotton'). There's no further update on when the Erie Canal will open at its eastern end. Heigh-ho again.
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  • Day 38: New York City

    May 20 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 12 °C

    We awake to a cool and damp morning. Jackets and jumpers today. We breakfast then catch the 0830 ferry across to Manhattan, and walk a few blocks to the Ground Zero precinct, nowadays a beautiful, treed park, with the two 'Reflecting Absence' memorial pools where the original twin towers stood, and the totally, utterly, fantastically excellent National September 11 Memorial Museum.

    The catastrophe that occurred here 24 years ago is something that a lot of people might, naturally, might want to forget... such was its traumatic reality. But I don't think any visitor to NYC can choose not to come here and reconnect with this thing, such was its effect on the city, the psyche of New Yorkers, and indeed that of the entire nation. When you visit this museum, you remember the shocking dreadfullness of that day. The World Trade Center Memorial Foundation and the Port Authority of New York and New Jersey have excelled in bringing the architect's vision to reality. Do it justice... allow 2.5 hrs.

    We then walked a few blocks to Stop 11 for the TopView hop-on/hop-off bus on its Red Route, tickets having been booked on-phone after leaving the Memorial Museum. We rode the Red Route to its starting point where, after lunch in a classic New York sandwich deli we boarded the Blue Route bus for a circuit around the outside of Central Park (we'll do the inside later), transferred back to the Red Route to Stop 10, and walked to the Brookfield Place Ferry Terminal for the last ferry to Liberty Landing, and soup for dinner on the boat.

    As always, thanks to Graeme and Lorraine for sharing images with me.
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  • Day 37: Brielle, NJ, to New York City

    May 20 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    An easy day today (to make up for yesterday). We'll start later, awaiting easier tidal conditions, and it'll be a quick 4-5 hr run up around Sandy Hook and into the Lower Bay and then New York Harbour. The Big Apple! Graeme and Lorraine were there 15 years ago and Colette and I nearly 6. Jan not, so we're going to enjoy her inclusion on this visit as much as she will.

    The racing ebb tide has abated as 'slack water' approaches, so we're off the dock at 1000 and manoeuvering our way through the crowd of recreational fishers as we push out of Manasquan River and into a gentle 2-ft close-in Atlantic swell.

    NYC is visible on the skyline from around 1130 and becomes more discernible as we drive up the coast under clear skies and in a fresh NW breeze (it should really be said, not NYC as such, but the tall buildings along the Long Island coast in a portion of its far eastern suburbs). At 1245 we turn in toward the Lower Bay and can see the Verrazano Narrows Bridge away ahead.

    Sandy Hook slips past on our port side and Breezy Point (well-named for today) away to starboard. We slide beneath the Narrows Bridge and begin to see the New York City/Staten Island environs closer up. We pass the Lady Of The Harbour, and numerous tour cruises heading toward her, and enter the Hudson. A left turn takes us into the Liberty Landing Marina, and we're fast at 1515 with only a soft accompanying breeze.

    We leave Preston hosing down the boat while we skip off down the quay-side to catch the hourly ferry across to Manhattan for dinner.
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  • Day 36: Cape May to Brielle

    May 19 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I'm still waking up as Graeme handles the lines for Preston at 0530. Sequoia slides past and beats us out through the inlet. The weather forecast is for fine weather and winds off-shore; this means waves no more than a couple of feet at the most. We're out of the harbour by 0600 under a cloudless sky and a very tolerable sea-state. 45 North moves around on the water, but her stabilisers mitigate any rolling tendency, and I'm sure we're all grateful for that.

    Two hours later, the wind strengthens a little later, and swings to be more northerly as we pass by Atlantic City. Sequoia calls on the radio for a chat. They're about 5 miles ahead of us and a couple of knots faster. They'll be going into Sandy Hook for the night. A few sport fishing boats speed past us... one can imagine them gulping fuel at those speeds.

    We settle down for a long transit up the Jersey Shore; or at least two thirds of it. Watch-keeping on the flybridge is somewhat monotonous, as we run hands-off thanks to that great German friend of ours, Otto Pilot. He's always there to help in times of need.

    At about 2.15 pm we pass the New Jersey Governor's summer mansion on the narrow coastal barrier of Island Beach State Park just south of Seaside Heights, and an hour later we're head-on into gentle 2-foot swells as we run into the Manasquan Inlet and up to Hoffman's Marina, with our bow literally metres from the single-bascule NJ Transit railroad drawbridge. I can almost reach out and touch the Bombardier/Alstom dual-mode electro-diesel locomotives as they pass with their 6 or 8 coaches behind. I'm told that train operations through here for the commuter rush-hour will commence around 0400. It'll be interesting to see how much noise they make as they pass.

    After winning a battle with the tidal current, we are finally tied up by 1600. We leave Preston to hose some of the salt off the boat and sashay over to the nearby marina restaurant, Waypoint 622.
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