My Place Boutique, Koh Lanta, Day 1
3 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C
It is time to introduce Helen to Asian transport. It is a 10am pickup and we are bundled into the back of a minibus that is soon filled with bags and people until we are all pretty cramped in and unable to move. It isn't the most pleasant journey, so luckily it isn't a log one. After sitting in the bus for the short ferry ride to Koh Lanta, we find ourselves at our delightful hotel. It is big and clean and everything we could ask for!
After getting settled we go to check out the island. After eating a noodle soup in the restaurant next door but one, we head to the gorgeous beach. The sea is clear and the sand is white and there is so much room to relax and chill out that we don't want to move. My tolerance for beaches isn't quite as high as the other two though, so I head back after a while, followed by the rest. The island is great to wander around, and after relaxing in the room for a bit we head back out for a great tea. It is very nice to have three people as we can order 4 meals and share without looking as greedy as when we have only 2.
After eating we head for a walk on the beach. For me the best time of day to wander on a beach is now, when all you can hear is the lapping of the waves and all you can see out at sea are the distant boat lights and the reflection of the moon. We sit on a large bed/chair and drink beer. It is delightful and very peaceful. After four big beers, we are ready for bed, and we walk back. Koh Lanta has already been lovely and we have only been here one afternoon and night. What a place!En savoir plus
My Place Boutique, Koh Lanta, Day 2
4 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ 🌙 18 °C
We get up pretty late today, but don't feel too bad about it as the plan is to lay on the beach anyway. All of us are feeling pretty sore after the Sun went to work on us yesterday. Like true brits abroad though we soldier on, baring our red skin to the elements. We find a lovely spot on the beach and spend most of the day dipping and reading again. The beach is really amazing, and spots of cloud do their best to give us a respite from the immense heat. It said the weather would be awfuk for Helen's visit, but it has been incredible. The weather and the beach math perfectly to make the days here very nice indeed. It doesn't make them very exciting for the blog I'm afraid, but very nice to be here.
Mid afternoon slowlys comes round and after a lovely burger I head back to the room, desparate for some proper time out of the Sun. Amy and Helen go to get a massage and manicure, and come back looking very relaxed and refreshed.
As night draws by we go out for some food, but we are all feeling rather tired and burnt, so we head back to the room and relax, ready for a day exploring the island a bit more tomorrow! A very short blog post but not much to comment on when we're spending a lot of time laying on a beach.En savoir plus
My Place Boutique, Koh Lanta, Day 3
5 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Today we decide to have a short walk around the island, hoping to find another bay. After a lovely pad thai we buy a ginormous bag of lychees that are a lot nicer then there shell makes them look. Wih fruit in hand we head for the next beach along. It is a short walk and soon we are sat on a different bay, that is just as gorgeous as the first.
The sea is a lot nicer, with less pointy shells to stand on as you wade out, and is inctedibly clear and shallow. After a while relaxing we decide we all want some shade, so head to a beachside bar. I have a beer while Helen and Amy enjoy a fruit shake. Despite my beer being a block of ice inside a bottle when it is handed to me, they go down incredibly well. Who knew lychees and garlic bread went well together?
After the bar I head back while Helen and Amy take another dip in the sea, before going for a wander around the rocks on the bay collecting hermit crabs. They get a tuk tuk back and it isn't long until we are all back in the room enjoying the air con.
As the sun starts to descend we grab some beers and sit on the beach. Despite the annoyingly placed clouds, it is lovely to sit on a beach when it is cool and the Sun isn't burning you. We all have a couple of drinks and enjoy the night drawing in on our final night on this wonderful island.
We get some very tasty pizzas and have another beer before going back to the room and preparing for an early get up for our ferry to Phi Phi tomorrow. Koh Lanta has been lovely, and we will be sad to go, but we are very excited for the next step on what feels like a holiday for all three of us!En savoir plus
PP Tonsai Place, Phi Phi, Day 1
6 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C
So our stay in Koh Lanta has come to an end. We sadly say bye to My Place Boutique and sit on the stairs outside waiting for our pickup. In true South East Asia style it is 15 minutes late, resulting in us being cramped into the front of a very busy tuk tuk and driven to the pier with five minutes before the ferry left. We make it, after being told to rush by our driver ironically, and sit on the side of the ferry, enjoying the sea breeze.
It's just over an hour until we touch down on Phi Phi, after we watch half the boat swapping onto another in the middle of the sea. What a place this is! It seems like paradise as we walk through the old streets, with no cars or bikes. Two halves of the island are covered in hills that are all jungle, leaving nothing but a small slither of land in the middle for the main town. Bays are littered among the coastline and they are all as beautiful as the next.
We leave our bags at the hotel and grab a sandwich, befofe sitting on the beach near the pier and taking in all the amazing scenery. The wooden boats and lack of buildings on the scenery to either side give it a real rustic feel that makes you feel like you have been transported back in time. It is amazing!
After sitting for a while we take a small wander around the bay and see lots of lovely restaurants that face out to the sea. After checking in and relaxing for a short while, we head back out and eat at one of these restaurants. The food is great, and the view is even better. We have a few cocktails while having a well contested game of scrabble. There is a lovely and relaxed way of life around here, and it is nice to slowly wander around the many stalls and shops before going back to the room and getting some well earned sleep after a busy day.En savoir plus
PP Tonsai Place, Phi Phi, Day 2
7 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
It's day 2 on Phi Phi and me and Amy are ready and raring to go nice and early as we plan to make our way to the several view points dotted around the hills. With a toastie in our bellies and a few bottles of water ready, we head off around half past eight, hoping to avoid the crowds and heat that is sure to ramp up as the day progresses.
Viewpoint 1 and 2 are only 100 metres apart, and that is a relief after the pretty horrible steps that lead to it. Despite the morning coolness still lingering in the air, we are covered in sweat and ready to take a seat as we get to the top. It is a boiling hot day, and climbing up roughly 100 steps is a pretty unforgiving task. As we reach the first viewpoint and find a spot of shade, it all feels worth it though. The views are beautiful. He sky is blue, the sea is turquoise, and the Sun is shining onto the hills beautifully. It is times like this when it hits you what a beautiful and amazing place this is. The small town wedged inbetween the two hills and the sea surrounding it is an amazing sight. We don't hang around long at viewpoint 1, as the view from the next stop is better. We find a rock that offers some breeze and take it all in. What a start to the day.
The next few stops are a harder walk. It is mercifully shaded as we trek along a small shaded path to a small restaurant that offers another great view from a different angle, before heading to a rock that we sit on for a while staring out at the ocean and the small bay underneath is. The walk is very tiring and rather scary. Small snakes and very brightly coloured spiders put us on edge slightly, and we are very pleased when we leave the thick trees behind and walk out onto a beach. Apart from slipping on a wet rock and ending up with a wet bum, we make it back safely. Our legs ache and we have lost most of the water in our body through sweat, but it is a great start to the day, and it's only just past 11.
After showering and giving our legs some rest, we all get some food, before sending Amy back to the room so me and Helen can do some birthday shopping for tomorrow. It starts to rain slightly which is lovely as we wander around the stalls and shops in search of gifts. A very keen bookshop owner tries to get me to buy a Tommy Cooper biography, which I have to politely decline as I am not sure Amy would appreciate it, but we get most of what we need bought and hidden away before Amy sees.
The rest of the afternoon is spent playing a very competitive game of monopoly, which Helen wins, before we decide to take off my hair. Long hair isn't good with the heat out here, and after my experience in Cambodia, I decide to opt for the razor again. Amy starts first, but my hair is so long it is sticking a lot. It is a painful hour and a half of shaving until my hair is almost gone. Next to go is the beard, and I suddenly look a lot like my Dad. It feels a lot cooler, even though it may not look it!
After the ordeal, we go out for some tea. There is no alcohol tonight as we save ourselves for the morning, but the food is great yet again. It is very hard to find a meal that isn't great our here (apart from mango sticky rice YUK! (And tarantula)). It has been a long but very good day, and we all feel tired pretty early so go to sleep, knowing tomorrow will be another jam packed day as we celebrate Amy turning 25!En savoir plus
PP Tonsai Place, Phi Phi, Day 3
8 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
It's Amy's birthday today and she is awoken with a latte and lots of presents, including essentials such as chocolate and alcohol. We manage to find a birthday cake that is in the form of a doughnut with unlit candles. I'm sure a lie in would have been a wonderful present in Amy's eyes, but we don't hang around long as we plan to get a longboat and head to some of the neighbouring sites.
We get a breakfast (not that we needed one after all the chocolate) and head to the beach, before climbing onto the boat and starting our trip. Phi Phi is a beautiful place full of many surprises, one of which is the small beach that we first land on. Much like the temple in Lopburi, it is overloaded with very mischievous monkeys. As Amy is a monkey lover, this is the perfect start to her birthday. It is an odd place, as it would be a gorgeous beach if it wasn't for the monkeys who have claimed it for themselves. We see people getting very close to some of them, and very nearly paying the price for it. Some rather daft people also walked on with a bag of fruit, that was soon ripped from their hands as monkeys surrounded them. It is an amazing, if not nervy place. After having a few dive on me at Lopburi, I am very wary of the same happening, plus I have no bag to protect me this time. We survive unscathed though, and head off to our next stop.
We depart from Phi Phi and head to a much smaller island that seems to have places to stay or live. I believe it may be called Ko Phi Phi Le but I'm not sure. We pull into an amazing bay, with steep rocks on most sides of us and water that is so clear you can see the rocks and fish on the bottom. It is beautiful, and so idyllic that you can't help be amazed by it. Maya beach is at the end of it, an amazing place made famous by a scene from the film 'the beach', which says it all really. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXpLVlJLHp8 if you want to see it for yourself. Unfortunately, the film has meant that you have to pay around £10 to step foot on the white sand, and even then it looked hard to find a spot for yourself as it was jam packed full of tourists. We instead opt for a spot of snorkelling and a short stop on a beach on the other side of the bay, which was free and empty apart from one couple who seemed to be getting very close in the sea. To put it bluntly, if they named their child after where it was conceived, it would be called something like 'the shallow water just off the beach near Maya bay'. A my decides she wants to take some photos, so swims back to the boat to get her phone, before realising swimming with one hand in the air isn't very easy. After heading in many different directions, she makes it, but it has exhaust her! Apart from that rather odd scene, the beach is very nice. We do some hermit crab racing and take a breather after the snorkelling. The views underwater aren't as great as some we have seen, but the views above water really make up for it.
We get back on, and after a short wait (which isn't a bad thing at all) while the driver finishes his dinner, we head to another bay which lacks the beaches this one has but is just as great. Me and Amy have another snorkel but don't see much so soon get back on the boat. What a place these spots are. It is amazing to just sit on a boat or float in the sea and just take it all in. It must be one of the best things we have done on this whole trip.
The boat trip is coming to an end though, and we head back past viking cave which looks very cool but would be a lot cooler if we could go in and get a closer look. On the way back, staring at the scenery with the boiling sun beating down on us, we pass a group of tourists whose boat has broken down. We feel bad leaving them there in the middle of the sea waiting for help, but there are worse spots to be stranded.
When we get back on dry land, we go for a drink and some food, before heading back to the room and getting some well earned rest before we head out tonight. After a while though, we are ready to go and watch the sunset. We have already sank a few drinks each, and we have a few more sat on the beach watching the night draw in. We go to get some food, passing by a man passed out in the street who Helen checks is still alive, and a rather rude restaurant owner who we annoy after Amy goes to the toilet while we check the menu. We eat a lovely meal of very spicy burritos and fish and chips, before we go get a cocktail an play a very well fought game of jenga. After all this, we go see a fire show.
I wasn't sure what to expect, but I didn't expect it to be as great as it was. We are sat so close you can feel the heat on your face as the performers spin and throw burning sticks and balls in all directions. One man ends up with fire down his trousers, as some tourists have their cigarettes lit by a giant ball of fire. It is fascinating and dangerously exciting. After the show me and Amy head out for a bucket of rum and coke, while Helen retires to the room full of cold. We find a very cool bar that has a live band on and a lot of drunk tourists. what more could you want?!
After we drink a bucket each, we find we are out of money, so head back rather drunk and ready for sleep. It's been a long day, but a very good one, and it is certainly a birthday Amy won't forget for while (despite the alcohol).En savoir plus
PP Tonsai Place, Phi Phi, Day 4
9 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Luckily, the hangovers from today aren't too severe, which is surprising considering the amount of booze we got through. We decide that we need a bit of exercise, and to sweat some of the the alcohol, so we head back up to the first viewpoint with Helen. It is a long way, and is mostly uphill, so Helen, who is struck down with cold, is struggling as reach the top. To be honest, we all are very sweaty and rather exhausted as we reach the top. The views are just as amazing as we remember, and the feeling when we reach the top and know we only have to go down now is very nice.
As Helen and Amy get Helen's nail gel/varnish removed, I aim to go back to the room. After around five minutes I realise i am heading to the other side of the island, so after checking a roadside map, turn back past the salon and finally reach the room, fifteen minutes later then I should have. When they return we all go out for something to eat, before Amy and Helen go gt a massage, and I again go back to the room. They tried to tempt me into a massage, but right now I am far too tired to think of that.
When they return we all chill out for a bit, and Amy pretty convincingly wins a game of monopoly. Helen's cold is bad, and mine is just starting to hit, so adding that to the booze yesterday, and we are all pretty tired, so we don't plan on doing anything else very energetic today. We go out for a gorgeous meal in a very nice restaurant, before wandering the streets of Phi Phi hoping to do a bit of present shopping. Unfortunately, the prices here are about double as they are on land, so we decide to wait until we are back in Krabi tomorrow. It is an early night, as we get ready for a ferry trip back inland tomorrow, for Helen's last full day in Thailand.En savoir plus
Ancora Blu, Ao Nang, Day 1
10 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Sadly it is time for Helen's stay on the islands to end. We are very sad to leave Phi Phi, it is an amazing place and we all feel we could stay for weeks! We arrive to the ferry at 10 as told, and end up sitting for around 40 minutes waiting to set sail. Finally we leave and get some breeze to cool us down. As we drift away, it is nice to have one last look at this beautiful place. But leave we must, and on the front of the ferry in the glaring sun, it is going to be a long couple of hours.
As we arrive at the Krabi pier we are bustled into the back of a van by a rather annoyingly loud man. The short trip to Ao Nang doesn't take long, but the driver gets even more annoying as he drops us at the beach and not at our hotel as promised when we bought the ticket. He tries to make us pay for him to take us here but we say no, as Amy uses some colourful language to describe him. His rudeness is a lot more annoying then being left here! Anyway, we are only about a couple of miles away from our hotel, so after a subway we jump into a tuk tuk and go straigt there.
The cold that Helen has been suffering with has been transferred to me (one of the problems wih sharing food), and I am feeling the full force of it today. Luckily, the hotel room is lovely, and I don't feel guilty about not doing much for the rest of the day.
As we didn't do present shopping in Phi Phi, we do have to leave the room though. We find the perfect place mere minutes away from our hotel, which is lucky as the heavens open as we are inside. Most of the clothes that we needed are bought for about half of what we would have paid on Phi Phi. We get something to eat before Amy and Helen decide to buy more clothes.
We make it back to the room and managed to stay slightly dry,l. It is agreed that it is a good idea to keep it that way and not head out again. Instead we have a nutritious supper of pot noodles and bread while watching paddington bear. A nice way to spend Helen's final night!En savoir plus
Baan To Guesthouse, Krabi, Day 1
11 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
Back to Krabi we go, and sadly this means we are back to ten pound a night hotels. It has been amazing to spend a fortnight in nice hotels that are all paid for already. Nothing against the new hotel, which is nicer then most and run by a lovely woman, but we will miss the standards of this fortnight.
Helen has a flight this afternoon, and is dreading the prospect of what she initially believes is around 50 hours of travelling. It is a shame to only have one night in this hotel as it is lovely. So lovely they give us a very nice free breakfast and a free lift onto Ao Nang beachfront where we catch a Songthaew (long bus style tuk tuk) into Krabi town. Mine and Amy's bug bags are worryingly thrown on the top, and we set off preying that no sharp curves throw them off. On the way we work out that Helen's flight arrives a day earlier then she thought, which is great as she won't be undertaking the massive travel she first thought, but bad as Matt ia meeting her at Manchester on the wrong date. We are dropped off walking distance from our hotel which is nice, and are soon settled in to what will be me and Amy's home for the next few days, and Helen's for the next few hours.
Our second time in Krabi starts with a walk into town to finish buying the presents that somehow have to fit into Helen's already packed suitcase. It doesn't take long to find what we are looking for, and again it is stuff we looked at in Phi Phi but for a fraction of the price.
After we get the shopping done we head back to the hotel and have a final buffet style dinner before Helen leaves. We manage (just) to get her case zipped shut, and before we know it, 5pm has rolled around and her taxi is here to take her to the airport. Me and a very emotional Amy wave her goodbye.
I am sent to buy chocolate and coffee to cheer Amy up, and we watch some shows on my laptop before heading out for tea. Unfortunately it is raining, and we are late to eat, so most places are closed. We end up finding a restaurant after a while and I eat a lovely traditional Thai dish of cheeseburger and chips, before we head back to the room, ready to sort out the rest of our Thailand trip tomorrow!En savoir plus
Baan To Guesthouse, Krabi, Day 2
12 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 24 °C
Not much to report today as we intended on not doing much but planning, and that planning took a lot longer then we expected. It turns out it is a long way from the Eastern islands of Thailand to Bangkok, and even further of a way to the Laos border. Add that to the troubles of trying to work out how to spend our last few weeks in this amazing country, and it equals a very frustrating morning!
After eating some breakfast in the hotel, we finally get it sorted (plane to the Laos border) and are ready to relax. My cold is still dragging me down, so there isn't much planned apart from eating. It is raining slightly until we get sat down in the restaurant, when a true Thai style downpour hits. Luckily we are under shelter, and it is there we stay until the rain has calmed down a bit. We eat a lovely pizza and a weird fish stick stuffed with cheese (never again) on the way home before hiding from the rain in the room.
Cabin fever is a real problem while travelling, when your home is never usually more then a room and an en-suite and it is certainly hitting us today. Inactivity for more then a day makes your feet very itchy, and we are both ready to get back on the trail tomorrow and so we get our bus to Phuket booked after much consideration. We have heard it is like a South East Asian Magaluf, but we shall see.
As night sets in, along with more rain, we aim to eat in the hotel. Unfortunately the chef has gone home sick, so we venture to a nearby restaurant where a very friendly host serves us some delicious food. Despite forgetting the rice, the sweet and sour cashew nut salad is great!
And so ends a stressful day, but one we feel a lot better for having. Everything is finally sorted until we get to Laos, and we get a good sleep, ready for a very busy 2 weeks ahead!En savoir plus
Ban Nai Inn, Phuket, Day 1
13 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ 🌙 24 °C
So we say bye to the wet and rainy Krabi, and get on the move again in the direction of Phuket. We have heard it has a reputation as a party island, but at the moment we are both struck down with cold and neither of us are in much of a party mood, so we decide to stay in a quieter section.
The bus from Krabi is due to arrive at 11, and there isn't much surprise when it is an hour late. It is rather annoying as it is eating into an afternoon in Phuket, of which we only have two, but it happens so frequently out here we are kind of used to it. Luckily we manage to wrangle our way into the front two seats of the minibus, which means we aren't cramped in the back. Unluckily, the seat seems to be right above something very hot, which isn't ideal in this heat. The drive to Phuket takes a lot longer then expected, and it is already mid afternoon by the time we make it to the island (if you can call it that, it is a very big bit of land connected to the mainland).
It takes another few hours to work our way to the south of the island, and to our destination. This would be annoying, but it actually turns out we pass by most of the landmarks and through most of the towns, which turns a boring bus journey into a sightseeing tour. We go through Patong (the party area) and are soon glad we opted to stay in town. It doesn't look the nicest of places, but the beaches look as good as expected round these parts.
As we arrive in Phuket town we grab a taxi from a friendly driver to our hotel. We are greeted by a very unfriendly man at reception who shows us to a much better then expected room. Amy befriends the local cat, who soon becomes rather attached judging by the ringing of his collar as he waits outside our door for a slither to squeeze through.
We are worried about the town as it doesn't look to great, but as we head out to see some sights, we soon see we were wrong to be. The old city is amazing! The architecture and design of the buildings, all painted in different bright colours, makes wandering through the streets a joy. It is lovely and quiet, and just the kind of place that we needed after a rainy few days in Krabi town. We stop for a hot drink and too admire the amazing graffiti that is littered all over the small streets. What a place! Tea is also great, even though Amy's curry is a lot spicier then expected (this, along with late transport, is also often the case).
We retire back to the room happy with the choice we have made, and very excited to see more of it all tomorrow!En savoir plus
Ban Nai Inn, Phuket, Day 2
14 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 26 °C
We are up nice and early full of energy and ready for a long walk up the nearby 'monkey hill'. We start out, aiming to get breakfast at the top as we have read there is a nice cafe up there, but soon realise we have forgotten our bug spray and sun cream. Guess we started out a little too early to be fully awake!
As we arrive at the beginning of the hill, we see the gates are closed. There is a jungle trail to the right, which one Thai man is wandering up by himself, but it looks pretty rough, and we would certainly be targets for the millions of mosquitos without spray on, so we sadly turn back. On the way we realise there is another road. One quick look on the map shows us we went the wrong way all along and this wide, spacious road is actually the correct way. We're happy we don't have to go back, but the 2km uphill trek is rather daunting.
It feels as long as we thought, but is a very cool walk, with some great views on the way, but not as many monkeys as I thought. There are a lot of dogs though. It takes a while to get used to packs of wild dogs, especially when they are pretty angry like they have been in some places, but these ones seem to barely notice we are passing by.
Finally we reach the top, and the view over Phuket is great. The monkeys seem to come out to play up here as well, probably not wanting to go much lower because of the dogs. Unfortunately there is no cafe, which is bad news as Amy doesn't handle being hungry very well.
We head back down with rumbling bellies, and no water as Amy threw hers when a monkey went for it. They are rather mischievous up here, but when you see people teasing them with food, there is no wonder they get pretty aggressive when they see a chance to get some.
The walk down takes half the time as the walk up, and we finally get some food in a cafe near our hotel before heading back and showering. We relax for a bit which is much needed, before walking into the town again. After a lime smoothie each we walk on a graffiti trail, checking out all the artwork around here. We also walk around a market and eat some spring rolls.
As night draws in on a long day, we go back to the market. Unfortunately, it is absolutely packed full, and to get to a stall front takes a massive amount of effort so we don't hang around for long. Our plan turns to getting a few beers somewhere, but the prices here are pretty crazy, and we end up at a cocktail bar drinking a bright blue mixture called a Phuket paradise and a couple of mojitos.
After these we grab some food, before heading back to the hotel. The unfriendly owner tells us we arent allowed to dry our washing on our own balcony which seems oretty ridiculous. Apart from that, we have completely unexpectedly loved this place and will be sad to leave when we head to Khao Sok tomorrow!En savoir plus
Tree Tops River Huts, Khao Sok, Day 1
15 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
It's another early morning as we plan to grab a local bus to Khao Sok. We have read online they leave every hour throughout the Day, so aren't worrying too much as we pack our bags and get ready. We make it to the first bus terminal around 8am, and then wait before getting on a bus to the next terminal, about 5km away. As we arrive we are led the way to the ticket counter for Khao Sok buses, and manage to book onto the 9.30 bus. Luckily we set off early, as this seems to be the last bus heading this way, despite what it said online.
The bus is pretty empty and pretty big, so despite the 4 hours it takes, it doesn't seem too bad. We arrive in Khao Sok early afternoon, and immediately notice the quietness. Apart from the sound of the animals living in the surrounding jungle, it is silent. It is incredibly nice. We are shoved into the back of a pick up truck and led to our hotel.
After having some dinner in the restaurant, we are shown to our small room. The room itself isn't great, but the balcony outside over the lake, looking out onto the national park is lovely. It is here we spend most of the afternoon as we are both pretty tired from the last few days, and there is also not much to do in Khao Sok apart from visit the national park, which we plan to do tomorrow.
After chilling out for a bit, we head out for a walk. This place is really great. We are surrounded by hills, and it feels like we are in a different country to Phuket, yet alone 4 hours away. It isn't very busy at all, and we see exhausted looking people coming back from the hike which we are going on tomorrow (scary!)
Despite this whole place consisting of only one small street, it is an amazing place which we could spend hours wandering around and staring at the scenery that seems to be amazing in any direction you look. We take a slow walk up and down the street trying to find somewhere for a beer, but we end up buying a few in a shop and having then on the balcony as we watch the Sun go down. It is cooler then most places we have been due to being in the middle of the jungle, so is very nice, and we listen to the monkeys screaming to each other in the trees ahead of us as it slowly gets dark.
We head out for something to eat, and end up fibding an awesome place that does a lovely couple of curries (very spicy yet again!) It turns out deep fried tofu tastes a lot better then normal tofu! After eating we take a slow walk back to the room and get an early night, ready for the nature trail tomorrow.En savoir plus
Tree Tops River Huts, Khao Son, Day 2
16 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C
It is a lovely, early morning, as we wake to the sound of the jungle around us. We don't hang about today though, as we are planning on doing the jungle trail, and we have read that it is going to be a pretty long trek.
We quickly get dressed and ready, before setting off, making sure our bags are loaded with water and snacks for the way. As we pay the entrance fee and sign ourselves in, it initially seems rather easy. The trail is more of a road then a trek through the jungle, and as we wander on and see the gibbons in the trees on the side of us, it seems all too easy. The first two sights are just off the road, and like all the stops, they are sections of the river where you can sit and either look at a waterfall or take a dip in the water. They are lovely little stops to get a bit of a break from the Sun and get a breeze from the water. We sit on a rock and take in the surroundings. It is lovely and quiet, with nothing but the sound of the river in our ears.
We decided not to get a guide as we have an app on our phone with the maps on, but it is handy to follow some couples who have paid, and we do that as we go down to the next stop, and find a cool little spot to again sit and take a breather.
Around 3km down the trail, we realise why people have said it is hard. An angry monkey who is eventually scared off with a slingshot guards the way to the jungle. We see a few people turn round, but we plod on, determined to reach the end. Within a few minutes we are in deep jungle, climbing paths that are just rocks, or climbing over giant tree roots. The trail goes up and down, which burns the legs, and the heat seems to ramp up considerably as the jungle gets thicker around us. At times it is rather worrying, as we know the abundance of spiders and snakes that live here, and wild elephants according to some very daunting signs. Monkeys snap branches all around us, and a wild boar scurries off as we approach which leaves us a bit scared. We keep taking it stop by stop, and each one is great to see, and also great to escape from the close proximity of the jungle for a few minutes. Soon enough we realise we have been trekking for around 4 hours, which only leaves us 3 hours to get back before the 4.30 deadline (for safety reasons).
We only have one more waterfall to go see, and we are tempted to go the extra mile to reach it, but in the end our brains overrule, and tell us to head back. The walk back seems just as hard as the walk there, and the heat seems to get more and more unbearable. We still use the river stops as a source of cool air, and amy takes a dip in the river to cool down. We also see a very big lizard lounging on a rock that is very cool. It has been a very long journey though and we are drenched in sweat and ready to get back to the hotel. Half way back we stop for a coke and a pineapple, which gives us just enough energy to make our way back, weary legged and absolutely knackered.
Back at the room, we rest the legs that have just walked over 25,000 steps according to Amy's app, and the thought of using them again today seems pretty scary. Amy though, is determined I should try a Thai massage at least once while I am out here, and tonight seems like a good time to do it. We head out before eating, and head to a massage place we saw last night.
To say I am worried is an understatement, as I am bent in hundreds of different ways, and muscles I never knew I had are pulled and pressed in a very painful manner. To be honest, after an initial ten minutes of worry, it does becoming relaxing, apart from when she is pressing deep down into my calves. There are a few moments when I have to grip tightly onto the mat so I don't omit a small scream, which would be very embarrassing as Amy is laying silently, almost asleep, on the bed next to me.
The hour quickly passes, and after it my muscles feel a lot more relaxed then they did as I stepped in. We stop for food in the same place as last night. The massage has left us both feeling very relaxed, and the food is as good as usual. The walk from earlier seems a long time ago now. It will be very interesting to see how our legs feel in the morning as we make the long journey to Ko Samui!En savoir plus
Baan Taa Yaay Bungalows, Ko Samui, Day 1
17 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C
Our legs actually don't feel too bad today, which I guess is testament to the wonders performed at the massage last nght. We really both expected to be aching all over after yesterday, but we actually get up feeling quite spritely. Yesterday we were meant to book our travel to Ko Samui, but we didn't for no reason apart from maybe our post massage bubble made us forget. Anyway, this means we have to get up early today and try and get it sorted before all the buses sell out.
After a quick breakfast, we head out and get it sorted at the nearest place we find. It takes a few minutes and it doesn't seem to be close to selling out, so we needn't have worried. We head back to the room to pack and get sorted, before having a last few moments relaxing on the balcony before it is check out time.
We step out and find it is incredibly hot. We feel like we have gradually got used to the immense heat, but today seems too much. As we walk to try and find an ATM we are both pouring with sweat, and as all our clothes are stored away in our bags that are being kept where we bought our bus tickets, this isn't good. We don't find a bank machine with a good coversion rate so decide to wait. With about an hour to spare before our minibus, we get a sandwich each for dinner and find a spot of shade to try and catch a breath in until we get picked up.
It feels like an eternity but soon enough we are picked up and dropped off a few minutes later at a bus stop. We wait around fifteen minutes before being put in a lovely air conditioned mini bus, with only one other couple inside. The space we have and the temperature make the ride feel like heaven! It takes about 2 hours to get to Surat Thani, where we are again dropped off at another bus station. It is pouring down with rain but I need cash, so I head off in search of a cash machine. Luckily, there is one five minutes away, and I manage to stay reasonably dry.
Another minibus comes and this one isn't so comfortable. We are shown to the back seat, where leg room doesn't matter apparently. It is an hour long, very bumpy ride to the pier that almost leaves us feeling seasick before we have stepped foot on a boat.
We are so glad to finally be on a ferry, and it turns out to be a very good one. We sit on the deck, and as we set off, there is a beautiful sunset behind us. There is food and drink which is much needed after today, and the sea breeze is lovely and cool. When it gets dark, it gets even cooler which is nice, and after the minibus ride here, we are just happy to have some space!
It takes around 2 hours, and we are on Ko Samui. Unfortunately we're on the wrong side of he island though. We manage to work our way onto a minibus heading in the right direction after a conversation that went a bit like:
Driver: it is 300 baht
Us: each? Or for both of us?
Driver: yes, 300
Us: but do we pay 300 each (at this point we are pointing wildly at each other) or for both of us?
Driver: yes, get in the van.
Anyway, we end up paying im 300 for both. Then we realise we have no internet and don't know where our hotel is. Amazingly, a man infront who must be an angel who has swapped his wings and halo for a smartphone and a good 4G connection, offers to help and sorts it all out. What a guy!
We arrive at our hotel around 8.30. It is a lovely place and much better then we expected. After putting our bags in the room and being offered a motorbike ten times (we said no, mum), we head out for some tea. Our first taste of Samui food is a good one, and Amy's sweet and sour may be the best yet!
After eating we head back, knackered after a long day, but very happy to be finally on the Eastern islands, where our final days on Thailand will be spent.En savoir plus
Baan Taa Yaay Bungalows, Ko Samui, Day 2
18 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C
Our first morning on Koh Samui is spent relaxing. After a hectic few days, it is lovely to wake up in an air conditioned and comfortable room. As Amy sleeps until around 11 o clock, I lay in bed watching a very odd film that should never have been on in the morning.
When we finally leave the room, it is to head to the beach. When we booked the hotel, we were excited to hear the beah was only a couple minutes walk away. Unfrotunately, they don't say that the whole beachfront is full wih posh hotels, leaving not many ways to get onto the sand. Eventually we walk quite a way through the town before finding a cutthrough. It is as lovely as expected as we place our towels down on the very soft sand. Despite the warnings of jellyfish, we don't encounter any stings, and it is great to cool down in the sea. The water isn't as clear as other beaches, but it is nice and cold.
After sitting in the Sun for around half an hour, we head into the town for something to eat. There is no shortage of cheap places to get good food, so it doesn't take long to find somewhere for a shake and pad thai.
After eating, we decide to walk to the Thai boxing stadium. The incessant trucks driving by with advertisements blaring from the speakers hasn't put us off too much, and we are debating whether or not to take a dip into the popular pastime of watching people beat each other up. It is a long walk, but it is nice to walk past all the very cool bars and shops that are surprisingly cheap for an island.
As we arrive at the stadium, we are told the astronomical prices for a ticket and decide to give it miss. Koh Samui is large for an island, but we still work our way around a bit of the East side, staring at the lakes and hills that are in the distance. It is great to just get lost somewhere, heading down any road that we feel like, knowing we can always find our way back on our phones (hopefully!)
It takes us a while to get back, but we don't mind working our way through the streets, which quickly range from streets laden with bars, to areas where families live in small houses and dogs roam around looking bored and agitated in the Sun.
The room is perfect for relaxing, with the small patio outside sheltered from the sweltering heat and very comfy to sit and read a book. We chill out here for a few hours, before heading to a nice restaurant for a beer and a meal. The bars look very nice on a night, when fairy lights are draped over the entrances and reggae music blares out from every other spot. We wander back slowly, before settling in for another night. Despite a lazy morning, we are still tired on the night and ready for a good sleep, before we explore a bit deeper tomorrow!En savoir plus
Baan Taa Yaay Bungalows, Ko Samui, Day 3
19 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C
We get up pretty early today and plan to spend most of the morning working our way to some of the other beaches on the island. There are loads of Songthaews that pass by all the time, beeping their horns and offering you lifts, so we decide that that is the best way as biking doesn't look too fun around here.
After a breakfast in the room of boiled eggs and noodles on bread, we head out. It turns out Koh Samui's only problem isn't the hotels taking up all the entrances to the beach. There also seems to be an unwritten rule among taxi drivers that they can charge astronomical fees for small journeys, and that if they all do it then people will have to pay. It is pretty annoying when we are offered a tenner each for a 5 mile journey, and soon enough we get bored of trying.
We walk to the beach to work out what to do today, and straight away our eyes set on the bending coastline ahead of us. It seems walkable, so we set off with the Sun on our backs and the Sea at our feet. It is a very nice stroll, and before we know it we are passing around the corner of one side of Chaweng beach and onto a different stretch of sand. We carry on walking and walking until we see a cool looking bar where we can stop for a passion fruit shake and a sit down. We sit for a while, staring at the long distance we have already walked, before carrying on the journey.
After walking through the sea for a bit (only up to our knees) we finally come to a point where we can't make it. This means we have to head up into the town. This proves rather troublesome again due to the abundance of hotels, but we eventually find a small route through, with a very friendly security guard pointing us the way.
The walking was worked us into a hunger, and we stop for something to eat. We may have gone further but we feel the spitting that preempts a downpour on our faces, and manage to get under shelter just as he heavens open and let loose another Thailand storm. By the time we have eaten it has stopped raining, and we decide to head back to the hotel, stopping for some obligatory beachfront beers on the way.
The realisation of how far we walk hits us as our stepometer passes the 15,000 mark, and we soon learn the lesson that walking on sand is pretty hard, especially when the sand is the talc like substance of Koh Samui. Tired and hot, we arrive back at the hotel in the late afternoon, and have a well earned relax on the blissfully shaded balcony.
We head out after dark for a couple of mojitos in a very cool art gallery/bar, before eating a lovely curry in a nice restaurant further into town. I have said some negatives about Koh Samui, but I can't fault the food here, even if trucks drive past every few minutes blurting out at me the offer of 'having fun with a gun'.
After eating, we pick some beers up from the family mart and head back to the room, before having a rather one sided game of monopoly (in my favour) and getting some well earned sleep!En savoir plus
Baan Ta Yaay Bungalows, Ko Samui, Day 4
20 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
Today started with every intention of trekking to one of the waterfalls that are relatively close to our hotel. After eating another breakfast of noodles on bread with semi-boiled eggs, we head into town to complete our first task of the day, getting a boat to Koh Phangan booked. This isn't as easy as it sounds as the prices vary so much from shop to shop, but we eventually find a cheap deal in a shop ran by a woman with an incredibly playful child. It turns out facial hair is something of amazement to a toddler, and my face gets rubbed more then it did during the massage!
Boat booked, and it's time for the walk. At least it would be if it wasn't unbelievably hot. All the time we have been here the weather has been intermittent with rainstorms and thunder and lightning, and this in turn leads to extreme heat when the Sun does manage to come out. With the jungle trek in Khao Sok seared onto our memories (and a lovely beach a short walk away) we decide to leave the waterfalls. It's a decision that takes a very short time to make, and it doesn't take us much longer to make our way to the beach.
We grab some very cheap but very tasty food in a restaurant just off the coast, and find some chairs which we can rent for 50 baht (just over a pound) for the day. To make sure it is money well spent, we spend a good few hours here. The incessant heat from the Sun has wavered to a much more comfortable point, and with the added breeze from the Sea, it is actually quite cool. We had read a lot of reviews of Chaweng beach when deciding where to stay on Samui, and it has a reputation for a party beach, but it is nothing of the sort. It is lovely and relaxing to sit and watch the jetskis trying to tackle the rougher then average waves. We don't dip in the sea as the shade from the umbrella above us and the clouds keep us cool enough anyway. As late afternoon comes by, we head back to the room to chill out for a bit.
It is good luck that we left when we did, as the storm hits again, and we watch the downpour from our hotel room, safe in the knowledge we only have to head out to eat later.
In a break from the torrential rain, we go to the place we ate the first night. As mentioned before, the food is amazing here. As we eat, the biggest downpour yet hits, causing the customers outside to charge to the safety of a sheltered table. It is actually really cool to watch the rain, and see how quickly it floods most of the roads and paths. The drops are huge and the sound is so loud that it almost drowns out the increasingly annoying vans trying to sell me things.
We make it home in a short interlude of dryness, and get some rest, ready for our trip to continue onto Koh Phagnan tomorrow.En savoir plus
Comon Bungalows, Koh Phagnan, Day 1
21 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C
Its moving day. These days are often tedious and long, drawn out affairs as we sit waiting for our lift to arrive, so we don't expect the bus to get here in the 9.30 to 10.00 slot we have been told. We are shocked when ten minutes early, with our clothes still drying outside, the driver comes to our room and picks us up. This leaves a mad dash to get everything thrown into our bags so as not to annoy everyone else on board. We end up leaving the lock on the door as we don't have time to check out (and the owner was watching anyway) and jumping into the back of the minibus rather frantically.
Being early was strange, and it got even stranger when we drive straight past the port we were told we would set off from. We start to wonder if this wasn't the correct bus after all, and if someone else is sat in the hotel about to board the bus intended for us. We pull up at the pier we arrived on what seems like a long time ago, and are shown to a shop. A very nervous few seconds play out as our tickets are eyed suspiciously, but we end up getting ferry tickets to the right place, and we can breathe a collective sigh of relief. We sit at the pier, hiding from the rain that is drizzling down, and wait for the ferry (which is late).
It's barely an hour after boarding when we arrive on the smaller island of Koh Phagnan. The journey was mostly spent hiding from heavy rain and staring at a small dog who became everyone's best friend on the way, especially if he thought you had food. It is pouring down as we get off, and we hide under a very packed shelter for a bit, before grabbing some dinner and waiting for the rain to stop. Annoyingly, the taxi drivers charge what they want here for any journey, so we have to pay an exceedingly large amount to get to the hotel. After the drama of the morning and with soaking clothes though, we don't really mind!
The hotel is lovely and is made even better by Sonya, the incredibly charming and friendly owner who shows us into our very cool room. We put our soaking bags down and dry off before having a much needed afternoon nap.
When we wake it is a few hours until sunset, so we make advantage of the light and do some exploring. We are staying in the North of Koh Phagnan, which is nice and chilled out and goes completely against the party reputation that the island has gained from the famous full moon parties that take place here. We head up sunset hill and take in the great views that it offers, before stopping off for a sit down on secret beach. As we head back towards the hotel, it is great to stare out at the sea and the islands in the distance. Around every corner there seems to be another view of the coast, and it seems impossible not to love this place.
After a while we start to get hungry, so head off for a meal, before going back to the room and relaxing. We are both knackered despite the nap, and look forward to a good night's sleep with no alarm set for tomorrow.
PS Amy really didn't want me to put the photo of her on that is attached to this day, but she is asleep at the moment so won't find out until it is too late!En savoir plus
Comon Bungalows, Koh Phagnan, Day 2
22 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ 🌙 25 °C
Today we plan to explore Koh Phagnan. Despite mopeds buzzing down the road incessantly, laden with topless and helmetless riders who would be in a lot of pain if they fell off, we decide we fancy a bit of exercise and opt for pushbikes. We have done some research and came to the conclusion that his will be a fun way to see the island and we can probably make our way a good distance around it.
We grab a quick breakfast and rent some bikes after a short search. Immediately we realise we may have made a mistake. Koh Phagnan isn't a huge island, maybe around 10 to 15km each way, but it is very hilly. So hilly in fact, that cycling feels almost impossible. We huff and puff up and down the constant slopes, before stopping off at a beach we find. Our legs ache and our clothes are so soaked in sweat that it looks like we have jumped in the sea wearing them. Distance covered - 2km.
The beach is lovely as all beaches around here seem to be. We take a dip to freshen up and sit and relax for around half an hour. The thought of getting back on the bike is pretty grim at the moment, so we are in no rush to move on!
When the time finally does come, we hop back on with restored energy, ready to tackle whatever the roads can throw at us. After two minutes our energy has drained, and we again find ourselves pushing our bikes up a hill as moped riders drive past looking either smug or sympathetic (mostly smug). We reach the top of an incredibly steep hill and make the most of the seconds of breeze and rest we get as our bikes fly down, brakes squeaking away as we try not to go too fast over the sandy patches.
We stop off at another beach but struggle to find a way onto it, so decide to head to a nearby waterfall. Unfortunately, as we head uphill and turn a corner to see another, even steeper hill, we realise the task we have set ourselves is unachievable. It is also probably not worth the pain to see a few waterfalls and a few more beaches. We head back, our dejected bodies burning in the Sun as we push our bikes up the hills we flew down minutes ago. We retreat back to secret beach, which is the nearest beach to our hotel, and collapse onto the sand. We had been biking for two hours (including the 30 minute break at the beach) and our legs feel like jelly.
We grab something to eat at the very nice beach bar, which we time perfectly as a downpour sends most of the beach in for dinner just after we order, and chill out for a bit. It is dissapointing as we wanted to see more of the island, but this beach is lovely so we don't feel too down.
In the late afternoon we head back to the room to shower, before dropping the bikes off at the rental shop. The Sun is just setting and we head for a nearby beach. Wow. Everything we have been through today is washed from the memory. As we sit on a rock and sip a beer, it feels like paradise. There is no-one around apart from a guitar playing wanderer staring into the sea strumming a few chords, and the Sun sets right in front of us as if we are at a private show. It is beautiful and a good end to a hard day.
After the sunset we grab something to eat at the restaurant near our hotel. We order a pizza which we initially think is very burnt, but is actually sporting a charcoal infused crust. It looks odd, but tastes great!
With our ferry booked for midday tomorrow, we head back to the room for some well earned sleep. We have learnt some valuable lessons today, and next time we will be hopping on a moped for sure (sorry mum).En savoir plus
Namhasin House, Koh Tao, day 1
23 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C
Our brief stop in Koh Phagnan is coming to an end today as we jump on a ferry and head North again. As we get up and pack we are both slightly aching from the cycling yesterday, but we are excited to get to Koh Tao, a place Amy remembers as very nice. After a quick breakfast in the same spot we ate last night (this time charcoal infused toast is on the menu instead of pizza), we say a sad goodbye to Sonya.
As we wait for our taxi we chat to our lovely host for around fifteen minutes. She has a very infectious laugh, and despite not knowing what she is saying most of the time, is very entertaining and somebody who makes you laugh along with her despite not hearing the punchline. As we leave she waves us away and watches us climb into the taxi, and we again say bye to someone who we like very much, but will probably never see again. later, as we wait for the ferry, we check her facebook as she told us we would be on there. She has posted two photos along with a poem. The translation doesn't work very well, but I think I am described as a slow man!
On a side note, Sonya told us that if we turned left yesterday on the bikes, instead of right, we would have been on a lovely flat road right around the island. This is the direction we head in now, and it is rather painful to look out of the car window at the incredibly flat and scenic road we are driving on.
Another ferry, and this time we sit inside in the air conditioned cabin where we are safe from any torrential downpours that like to occur at the most inconvenient times. It takes around 90 minutes until we arrive on Koh Tao. Our hotel is only around a mile away, and we decide to tighten our bags and walk up the hilly road. The Sun is beating down on us mercilessly, but the walk around the place is lovely. It certainly feels more like an island then the other two, and at a tiny 2km wide and 8km long, you can almost feel the surrounding sea as you wander. Wander we do, up and down, past small shacks with yapping dogs outside, and large petrol stations. Palm trees line the road when there isn't a massage parlour or a restaurant there. It is lovely, but we are very excited to get our bags down.
We take a break at a restaurant called JT's. It looks like your average run of the mill place, but when we are given our plates we realise it isn't. The portions are huge, and the green curry fried rice goes down a dream. It costs 60 baht a meal (£1.50) and we plan to come back again despite our hotel being another 400 metres away. Or so we think. Our map is telling us that, but as we set off I glance down a side street and see a sign for our hotel. It is right next door to JT's! If I hadn't seen it, it would have been a nightmare, but we are welcomed in by another lovely host who tells us all we need to know about the island in a brief but very thorough introduction. The room is nice with a lovely balcony which we need as a fan is our only relief from the sweltering heat.
It is almost time for the sunset, so we head to a lovely little bay a small walk from our hotel and relax for a bit. Koh Tao really is beautiful. The beaches are paradise, and we revel in the fact we have five days here. As we watch the sunset on another almost empty beach, it seems there is nowhere else we would rather be. Stress doesn't exist on these beaches.
Weirdly after landing on such a lovely place, we decide it's time to book our flight home. We load up with beer and wine to get us through the ordeal. We first book a hotel which hotels.com will pay us to stay in for two nights for being loyal customers. We are given 30 quid a night to spend which out here gets you luxury. Then it is flight time. We pick a good flight home, despite a risky 75 minute stopover to hop between flights. My finger hovers over the confirm button for a while, knowing that it is the beginning of the end. It is hard to lower it. I concentrate on mustering the thought of Sunday roasts into my mind, hoping they will override the memory of the beach I am just sat on. Fish and chips. Sky Sports. Pints of beer. Friends and family. The button is pressed. We are coming home on the 5th of March.
We go to JT's, drunk from the alcohol, but also on the thought of going home. It is another glorious meal, and after a few more beers we head back, ready for some sleep. The room is boiling hot, and the fan doesn't offer as much relief as it needs to. It's going to be a long, long night.En savoir plus
Namhasin House, Koh Tao, Day 2
24 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☀️ 19 °C
Did we really book our flights home yesterday or was the beer conjuring up dreams of doing it? A quick check of my e-mails shows the confirmation e-mails, but it doesn't feel as painful as it did immediately after. What does feel painful is the idea of another sleepless night in this ridiculously hot room. Our fan seems to also be the noisiest fan in the whole of Thailand as well, which really doesn't help as we both have a pretty sleepless night. The show must go on though and as we move hotels (air conditioning!!) tomorrow then we only have today to explore the Southern side of the island.
Our first stop is a small, family run shop to pick up some snorkels. One of the many wonders of Koh Tao is that from most beaches you can simply swim out and apparently see some great marine life. It is to one of the beaches we head to. Our host told us it is a 30 minute walk, but forget to mention the fact that it is mostly up very steep hills. We climb and climb on empty stomachs, hoping for breakfast by the sea, and Amy is not coping well. It is a very scenic and pretty walk, but by the time we reach a point where we can finally see the coast ahead of us, we are already drenched in sweat and pretty exhausted.
We seem to be at the top of the hill we have climbed, and finally get to walk down and get take in some really great viewpoints of the coast. Saideng beach is our first stop, and we find a rock to sit on and lay our t-shirts on to dry. It is another lovely beach, nestled away between rocks and unbelievably empty. Snorkels on, we head out into the lovely, clear water. The coral isn't great, and it mostly is dead and grey on the sea floor, but the fish are amazing. Some are very big, and there are loads of them swimming in large crowds all around us. We stay in the sea for a while, and watch as more and more seem to congregate underneath us.
Unfortunately, the only restaurant on the beach has astronomical fees, and we really need some food after a pretty energetic morning.
The only way is back, and we realise that the hill we walked down in high spirits on the way to the beach, is very steep. It is hard work to get back up, but the downhill part afterwards helps. We find a place called the natural high cafe, and it isn't called that for it's altitude if you know what I mean. We have a cheese toastie that takes around an hour to come and doesn't do much of a job in filling us up before heading to our next stop, the ominously named shark bay.
Shark bay has it's name for a reason. It is a popular snorkelling spot as there is a family of sharks that occupy the waters just off the beach. There are also two huge sea turtles that are apparently often sighted. I must admit I do have a slight fascination with sharks, in the way that I find so terrifying I can't help but watch videos of them. Quit like when people watch horror movies even though they know it is going to be a horrible experience and wish they never had afterwards. With this in mind, we both think snorkelling for sharks will be fun.
Amy has chosen today to wear in some flip flops, which soon give her blisters. A lovely French (maybe) chap offers her a lift down to the beach on his scooter, showing us a sneaky way to get onto it for free, missing the 100 baht fee the hotel that occupies the whole beachfront charges.
We walk through a bar, where we stop for a second dinner, before wading through shallow waters onto the side of the beach. It is a great place. Palm trees loom over a thin stretch of sand that is pretty busy with tourists. The company which owns the beach and charges people to come on have lovely beach front bungalows that sit in-between the trees and look very expensive.
We aren't here to sunbathe though, an we head out armed with nothing but a snorkel and a poor level of swimming ability, and hunt for sharks. It initially feels okay, and we get a sense of encouragement as we see some big fish swim under us. The problem comes when we go deep enough to see the sharks. Suddenly, the water looks darker and gets a lot colder. The exhilaration at the idea of seeing the gloomy shadow of a shark swim by in the distance soon turns into a slight dread at the thought of it. We look up and realise we are a long way from the beach, and a long way from any other humans. It soon feels very deep below us. We know they are only reef sharks and harmless to humans, but what if there cousins the great whites have come over for the holidays? These thoughts run through our mind as we swim back, dejected and slightly relieved at not spotting one of these creatures.
We sit in the shade of a palm tree and rest after what turned into a long swim back. I end up asleep while Amy reads a book. Drones fly overhead, controlled by people in the posh bungalows, and we soon decide to head back. It has been an exhausting day, and we head through the nice resort, hoping to find a route that makes our journey home shorter. Teaming up with four Spanish girls, we finally find an exit from the seemingly never ending lines of bungalows, and find a way out that cuts out a lot of the hills that we very much don't want to climb. It feels good to sneak through not paying, as the idea of a company putting a price on a stretch of sand annoys me.
We get back rather exhausted, and spend some time relaxing on the balcony. Our host has recommended a lovely restaurant, that we enjoy a very nice meal in before heading back to the room. We are hoping a melatonin will help us through the night, but it seems like it will be another long one in the heat of this room. The idea of an air conditioned room in a lovely hotel tomorrow helps though!En savoir plus
Ban's Diving Resort, Koh Tao, Day 1
25 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☁️ 2 °C
After another sleepless night sweating in the boiling room, we are very excited to finally use our free nights in a posh hotel. We check out, saying bye to the nice family who run the place, and get a quick brunch of an enormous plate of fried rice from JT's to give us the energy to tackle the 2km walk.
Luckily, it is rather overcast as we set off and the walk is a lot more comfy then the first one on the island. It makes it all the better to know we are heading to the promised land of air conditioning and a kettle with free tea and coffee.
As we arrive we are ushered into a large reception area, and we are allowed to check in early as the room is empty and clean. We walk a small distance before we are picked up by a small golf buggy type mahine. The driver takes us up hills and around bends as we exchange worried glances about where we are going. When we finally stop we are shown into a lovely room that kind of makes us forget the last two nights! It is so nice we don't want to leave, and we spend a while relaxing in the coolness and comfort. The islands are great, but your hotel money doesn't go as far as it does inland, so it is nice to get out of dingy rooms for a night.
After chilling out for a bit we go out and enjoy a drink and some snacks on a beachside bar. We are right on Sairee beach now, which is the main area for tourists on Koh Tao. The beach is a mile long stretch of soft sand, with a lot more going on compared to the places we saw yesterday. After eating we have a wander around the town to stock up on supplies of sun cream and bug spray, and plan a few places to have some beers tonight. It doesn't seem we will be short of options!
As night comes, we have a nice meal in a lovely restaurant as we watch people getting soaked in the storm that has suddenly come on outside. By the time we have finished it is dry, and we wander to a pub where some very drunk men are playing pool.
We then head to the beach and watch a fire show. It is a rather awkward one, but the beer is cheap and we get to sit on the beach which is always nice on a night. After a few beers we head off to stop at one last bar before home. We find a small place selling bucketa of rum and coke for 150 baht (just under 4 quid) which we can't turn down. After a few of these we find ourselves at the small bar with two Irish couples. I am placed in charge of the music, and my first choice, sultans of swing (always), goes down as well as if Mark Knopfler himself has risen from the swimming pool on a stage armed with a backing band and a stratocaster. The two Irish men are clearly drunker then their female counterparts, and lead the singing and dancing very loudly. One of them nails an electric guitar like a pro!
Time and buckets fly by, and when we eventually drag ourselves away, it is already the early hours of the morning. We grab a burger (tuna for the veggie) and head back to the room. Air con plus rum means we are both in for a good nights sleep!En savoir plus
Ban's Diving Resort, Koh Tao, Day 2
26 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ 🌙 30 °C
Uh oh! Too much rum has left us both feeling pretty rough this morning. We decide the best thing to do would be to take a break from the beaches and stay by the lovely hotel pool.
After a slow morning we move there. It is only about 100 metres from our hotel (which shows how big this resort is) and is lovely and empty when we arrive. There aren't many sunbeds, but only about a quarter of them are taken. We take a dip in the pool to freshen up and chill out. The pool is great, and set on top of a hill, leaving a great view of the palm trees and hills of central Koh Tao. It helps that we are both pretty engrossed in our kindle books and the day passes by quickly. A brief stop for a pad Thai for dinner is about the only break we take from laying on sunbeds and chilling out.
It is an odd thing that days like this kind of make you feel guilty when you are travelling. The idea that we should be out here trekking up hills exploring the island, rather then sitting by a pool topping our tans up always lingers at the back of our mind. Today though, it isn't so severe as we are treating ourselves to the gift of this lovely hotel that we aren't paying for, and it would be rude to not take advantage of luxury when we finally get it.
We both decide there will be no more booze until Laos. It's not just the damage to your head, but also your wallet in Thailand, where booze is much more expensive then the rest of South East Asia. What we do let ourselves have though, is pizza. After I had a lovely one last night, we head back to the same place and satisfy the cravings for Western food that cone and go.
We stop briefly on the way back to look at another sunset that these islands keep gifting us with. It is by far my favourite time of the day, when the temperature is perfect and the madness of the night hasn't yet begun, leaving a feeling of calm and serenity that not even a Thai massage can produce. As it gets darker the palm trees becoming just silhouettes, as do the boats that linger on the water, bobbing up and down slowly with the soft waves. It is a prefect view that wouldn't go amiss on a postcard or in a travel brochure.
So all in all a much more quiet and relaxing day compared to what we have had recently, but one that is needed. Who knows when we will see a hotel like this again, if we will on this trip, so it only felt right to have a lazy day today. With nowhere to stay tomorrow, it's looking like we will be back in a fan room, so we will certainly make the most of the room tonight!En savoir plus
J's Bungalows, Koh Tao, Day 1
27 janvier 2018, Thaïlande ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C
So the final morning of our last day on Koh Tao is spent packing up and sayig goodbye to our wonderful room. In a desparate attempt at getting a room last night, which we failed, we wander around temporarily homeless. Luckily, a few days ago we saw a place offering rooms, and it is there we head to now. It is another hot and sweaty walk, but the room is actually better then expected, and very cheap. We pay for the room and also for our ferry tickets for tomorrow, before relaxing on the small balcony for a while. Amy makes friends with a very fat (or pregnant) cat which turns from being very friendly to very agressive in a split second. It's an odd thing that doesn't leave our front door for the entirety of our stay.
When we eventually head out we grab some food before walking to the pier to see how far we have to head tomorrow morning. It's not far at all, and leads us to a lovely beach on which we spend a few hours reading and dipping into the empty sea. It is lovely, but the amount of shade dwindles as the Sun arcs ahead of us, leaving it a bit too hot to hang around for too long.
We next head for Sairee beach and decide a drink in one of the beachfront bars is in order. It won't be alcoholic as we have vowed to not partake in any boozing until Laos, so Amy settles for a coke and I opt for a cup of tea which almost tastes like home. It is lovely to sit in the shade and chill out, knowing at the back of our minds this is the last time we will see the coast for a while (not counting off a ferry).
We go grab a sandwich from a stall which tastes amazing, and find a lovely spot on the beach to sit and read our books, waiting for the red sunset that drops over the sea here perfectly. It's a nice way to end our stay on the islands, and we definitely won't forget the beaches over here.
As night draws in we go out for a big meal. We find a very nice and very cheap restaurant that serves up free ice cream at the end of the meal. Amy has some money out do some shopping but we struggle to find everything.
Heading back underneath the lights of the walking street, with the noise of the bars and the smell of the food for the last time is sad, but I am sure we will back sometime. For now though, it is time for bed, with a long few days of travelling ahead of us!En savoir plus