Easy beautiful walk to Champlemy

A lovely easy walk of 10 kms today, under cloudless sky, about 15° when we started, but now 24°, and a light breeze. Perfect. But first, dinner and breakfast with Jacqueline. We came down for dinner at the appointed hour and found there was a dining room - as chaotic and cluttered with mementos on every surface as the other rooms. The table was set for 2, but she would sometimes join us for a little wine or cheese…there was a TV on which we liked, to hear the news and get our ears attuned to French…so it was a proper dinner - some amuse-bouche to start (tiny endive leaves with little goodies in them), melon and local prosciutto-type meat, a veal, mushroom and potato casserole (also a local specialty), cheeses and fruit salad enriched with some nameless liqueur! Local wines, not famous but lovely to us - and we had to change to red when we got to the cheeses. She sat and chatted and was quite delightful and we felt very spoilt. Went upstairs to our “suite” and had to close the door as her white cat likes to come up and explore. This morning breakfast at 8.30 and again the royal treatment. …there were croissants, pains au chocolat, baguette, brioche, home made jams, fresh fruit, bowls of really good coffee…what a perfect start to the day, and she insisted we made up a baguette with cheese and ham for our lunch, and as we were leaving popped a bag of tomatoes from the garden in our bag!! Had them at lunchtime and they are the sweetest and tastiest tomatoes I’ve had in a long time…so each day is a new dining and accommodation experience…

Walked off feeling very leisurely knowing it was to be a 10 km walk. Visited the 12C church in Varzy, S. Pierre, and it’s famous triptych on our way out, then followed a fairly well marked way. No agonising today about directions. We walked at first through lots of forest and now and then came out into the sweeping fields - still drooping sunflowers, corn or freshly ploughed…so soothing and beautiful. And now and then there would be the white cows - Charolais, famous in this region. We actually met 2 walkers today!! Going in the opposite direction, a Polish man and French woman, heading to Vézelay. Otherwise we were alone.

Arrived here in Champlemy at about 12.30. Found a stone bench and had a break and lunch in a shady spot right beside the said cows, who all came over and stared at us the whole time we were there…it almost felt intrusive!! We wandered into the town (another tiny place) and saw a cafe actually open (also an agent for La Poste) and had a coffee/hot chocolate…

We had an indecipherable map of where to find our guest house, but from the cafe saw a chambres d’hôtes, and a 35 on the building just opposite- we had seen no street names - but guessed that probably was our place, and it was…we went over and were welcomed and expected. Our bags were waiting, all perfect. We have a big light airy room, sort of a family room with a double bed, and 2 singles. Windows looking out to the garden, where we may go and sit and read later. So again, all SO good.

Tomorrow is a 21 km walk, the longest so far, but normal or short in our other Caminos…so hope we find it easy still!! We end up in La Charité sur Loire, but have a transfer to Arbourse to start the walk. What luxury! I guess it would otherwise have been 31 kms…. Anyway, now relaxing, Amr is doing some yoga to stretch, and I am feet up on the bed writing up the day..Read more