Beautiful Guest House at Villquiers

As usual, I must finish yesterday before launching into today. Charité-sur-Loire is a charming town, and after showering and regaining our equilibrium (and in my case taking some anti-inflammatories) we went down the Main Street that led down to the Loire. A large river at this point…we walked across the bridge, and realised that we had only got to an island in the middle and that there was an equal expanse yet to cross! That is how we walked out today, so we didn’t go further last night, but we did spy an eatery that appealed, outside beside the river…and have to confess that it was a French style Italian pizzeria! Shameful, but we saw their salad lists and really wanted a light meal after that rather large ones we had been having. By 7 when they opened there was a little crowd waiting, but we got a table outside and were very happy, with the stunning view back to the town. I think this must be quite a place to visit, as there seemed to be tourists, not just us! It is charming and historic like almost everything here, and again I think I read 12C buildings - probably church and walls.

So back to our hotel - the 1001 Leaves refers to books, not trees, as you will see from photo. One funny thing - everywhere has its peculiarity - but this was the toilet…I challenged Amr to flush it…there was a notice saying to push the white button and hold…with an arrow…but I couldn’t see any button. Amr finally did find it almost totally hidden on the side of the toilet bowl itself, and after a few seconds of pressing there were sounds of rushing water..! Part of the travel tapestry! I am relieved that we worked it out…

So we set off this morning at about 8.30. We didn’t want to be late as we had to be at a town, Couy, at 4 pm to be picked up by our hosts tonight to be taken to their guest house - off the track. We had tons of time, but didn’t want to feel pressed, and it was a 20 km walk. I was a bit nervous after getting the back aches yesterday, but after a good night’s rest (and the pills) all was absolutely fine today, so have my confidence back…phew. We did make sure we had breaks etc, which we needed, as by the afternoon it got very hot again.

But setting out it was just gorgeous, cool, partly cloudy and we walked through the usual farmland with ploughed fields and the ubiquitous sunflowers, still far from being totally dead and black that they have to be before harvest. Then through more forest, with piled up logs and deliciously cool. We came to a town which actually had a cafe open - a rare event in these small places - so stopped for coffee and hot chocolate. Then set off through more fields and it was almost like the meseta in Spain. Endless farmland in every direction, and we were walking on very rough almost invisible grassy paths (that is not like Spain!)…no markings possible here and we did sometimes doubt if we were on the right track, but we’d suddenly end up in the right place…we are getting quite good and relaxed at interpreting the signs and instructions. Anyway, after emerging from tracking through the endless fields we found a small town with a shady bench to stop and have lunch…finished off the bread and cheese and apple that we had…and then set off on the last leg rejuvenated and quite sprightly, compared to yesterday, but it was hot.

Of course we were early - I think a little after 3, but we planned to sit and read and relax till being picked up at 4…but of course Couy is tiny and no open bar, and the only seat in front of the church, our pick up point, was in the sun…so we were delighted when our (again) lovely hostess turned up, in a ute, and drove us here to their gorgeous place. It is a farm, with guest rooms, just charming and we are the only people tonight so can spread out and wander round freely. Dinner at 7, and I know it will be a delicious home cooked meal…she has already said there is a soup with vegetables from the garden…but I know there will be lots more.

Tomorrow we get dropped back to Couy and walk 15 kms to Brécy.Read more