Pyrenees conquered, downhill from now!

We have made it to Roncesvalles - even though we didn’t go the hard way over the top, we had a day with a lot of climbing and feel proud of ourselves. It was cold, but not freezing - I actually took off a layer before the final climb - and there was snow around, on the top of the mountains and around our path but nothing that impeded the walking…in fact for me it is rather magic to be amongst snow! It rained a little, but never pouring, just drops in the air, and sometimes it was snow showers - droplets of flakes!

We are now in the very lovely hotel here that we remember from last time 10 years ago…it looks like a wing of the monastery and similar to the albergue, except with all the refinements of a hotel! It is warm and I have no intention of stepping outside till we leave tomorrow morning! We were expected, our bags were waiting, we are booked in for dinner and all is very good.

Set off at about 9, or exactly as we heard the church bells bong the hour. We wore ponchos all day and I am very happy with my new voluminous blue one - it fits well over the backpack and didn’t let any drips in! Also very happy with my new sticks…We walked only about 14 kms, but it was strenuous and even Amr feels quite worn out! I had to plod on the LONG uphill but once finished I was very happy going downhill to Roncesvalles, and now don’t feel at all worn out, just happy that we are here!! It was such a different walk from 10 years ago. Then the trees were in full leaf and it was just like walking through a forest. Today the trees were bare enough that we were aware of the enormous rocks and mountains surrounding us, and the valleys…such a different scene, and magnificent scenery.

Now the bar where we are having a wine (it was empty when we came) has filled with walkers all swapping stories of today…this is such fun. Some people walked all the way over the top, some walked our route, some were warned it was too snowy and difficult over the top and got a taxi!! Everyone is happy…mainly Americans, Aussies and Canadians right now…but many more…all good.

Dinner was good…though it took ages as they were also serving a room full of pilgrims from the albergue and I think we got forgotten…but food yummy…Amr had the bean soup and I had a mixed salad to start (mixed means lettuce, tomato, tuna, egg, asparagus ) and Amr had grilled bass for main and I had a deer stew…so delicious…comfort food! Off to sleep now…Read more