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  • Day 20

    Sunday in Pamploma

    April 16, 2023 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    Got up leisurely today, had breakfast at about 9 in our very perfect Hotel Europa. In the evening the dining room is a Michelin star restaurant. Then we went out wandering rather than walking! Found the Camino, and where to walk out tomorrow - always a bit tricky exiting at city, then walked to the cathedral, tried to find where we should have walked in yesterday, and generally enjoyed the ambience and the good weather.

    It finally is fine, with a few clouds, but there is a breeze which feels it is coming from the snow on the mountain tops. It was about 7° and we needed all our layers. We hadn’t counted on quite so much cold, (though not complaining!) and need to wear all we have! I think I am the only person in Pamplona wearing sandals with socks - the only alternative to my walking shoes which are drying from being washed…(though still look filthy!). And my feet are so comfy…We had a coffee and ColaCao at the Hemingway cafe in the plaza.

    So we walked round the walls - each time we come here we discover new things…we found a path just outside the walls which are so huge and still intact…a medieval army would have had trouble penetrating this city! Very pretty with the leaves budding, and we finally found the entrance we should have taken yesterday when entering as pilgrims, via the Puerta Magdalena, and over a drawbridge. We bought 2 jamon and cheese half baguettes, one to share for lunch, and one is wrapped up and in our room fridge for lunch on the walk tomorrow.

    In the afternoon I sat in the plaza - there are so many seats for people to sit and watch the world go by… families with children playing, dogs, and cafes around the edge. I read my kindly while Amr had a bit of a walk - thought he may go to the museum of Navarra, but it closed at 2…so while we were sitting in the plaza we heard a band and lots of noise, and a procession of a jazz band came in surrounded with people waving tinsel-decorated umbrellas and dancing - attracting even more people, and they stopped by the rotunda and played and the crowd started dancing, and more joined them…a very happy scene. (In 2013 we saw spontaneous dancing in the plaza too, but this was different!). Then the band marched on and stopped in another plaza - we followed them and watched - the musicians were dressed in suits - but then after the next round of music they were all given a beer from the nearby bar…a fun Sunday afternoon experience! Amr has made a 10 second video which may show the ambience.

    Now just back from dinner. Before we ate we had another walk through the park, which looked over the “moat” where they have deer, peacocks, geese, chooks all wandering round…and we walked around another section of these massive walls and into the citadel area, which is now a park. Just beautiful! We found a great eatery where you could just choose dishes, not have the menu del dia, which entails 3 courses. Highlight was an octopus dish. Now back, clean and sorted for the morning’s departure. It will be about 23 kms I think, but it should be fine weather and we are ready for it!
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