Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Amr says that today has been the most spectacular walk so far…and it certainly was beautiful…wide open spaces with sweeping fields dazzlingly green! We are still in the Rioja, but less vineyards as the day wore on and more grain fields, and also beans and peas. It was 21 kms…we left about 8.45 and got here at 3, as usual taking our time with breaks and taking the hills slowly. Cool, about 10° in the morning rising to 23 or so in the afternoon…and a good breeze to fan us so never unbearably hot! And in the evening it cools off, and people put on jackets…on the TV we saw weather reports of extreme heat round here…well, as always, I think they are pushing the idea of climate problems…(won’t rant!)…

So we left Nájera, climbing out of the huge red rock cliffs that the town is built up to…and then across the gorgeous fields, still many vineyards, and mountains (?hills) in the background. Then we moved into the more wide open spaces where you can see the path of the camino stretching out for miles ahead of you…very spectacular, and one particular view, which often appears on the covers of camino books, we saw in a completely different aspect in spring…we are so ecstatic that we are here now to see the spring growth…and our hotel here, where we stayed twice before in a tree-lined street, is now lined with tree trunks starting to sprout.

We remembered it was Anzac Day and were reminded by the many red poppies growing along the paths..lovely wild flowers everywhere. After unwinding on arrival we walked around this lovely town. We visited the cathedral…pilgrims get reduced admission…and it is beautiful and has the famous gothic hen house. Our admission also included the bell tower and we actually climbed it!!! It was worth it, magnificent view from the top, and we were prepared for the bells donging at 6.15, but fortunately only one bell did one ding! We were up there surrounded by bells!Read more