French pilgrimage finished - in Lodeve

We have arrived in Lodève, French walk finished! We feel quite proud, as it wasn’t easy walking, but certainly spectacular. We have checked into our very nice Hotel De La Paix, and booked to have dinner here at 8. Amr is, surprise surprise, off to the laundromat to wash everything, and I’m happily sitting in the room in shorts (all that’s left not being washed) and with 2 tops and my jacket still feel cold…I look back at photos of walking a couple of days ago and I was just in a t-shirt and can’t imagine it….today we did 16 kms of strenuous walking with fleece and jacket on all day and not even sweaty!! …and yesterday the same, but didn’t have my fleece and wished I did!

Anyway, first last night’s dinner…it was rather like a couple of years ago in France when we stayed at a guest house, we had dinner with the hosts, Martine and Guy, such lovely people. The season is just starting and we were the only people. They can take 14 people, but only do dinner for 4….so we had a delicious home cooked meal in their dining room overlooking the valley! Just beautiful. Started with endive, egg and crumbled cheese salad, then pork fillets and potatoes with very tasty onion sauce and a raspberry tapioca dessert. Comfort food! And we had fun and lively conversation…half French and half English…and this morning we had breakfast there before we set off.

They had told us a shortcut to get to the GR without going the km back to the village, a path at the end of the vineyard and across the creek, but Amr this time wanted to be authentic and we walked back and started from the square, following the true path! After quite a while we thought we must have passed where we would have joined in from the guest house, as we were out in the wilderness and had been walking several kms, but then suddenly we saw their Domaine through the trees on the other side of the valley… it would have been a true shortcut.

We knew from the graph that today’s walk was basically a big climb, then going along for quite a way along the top plateau, then a descent into Lodeve. But the Book said it was a short (15km) stage and somehow implied easy…but it wasn’t really easy, the big ascent was most of the time very rough loose stones and roots that needed concentration, and also the descent at the end was also potentially treacherous! But of course the views were spectacular and it was very exhilarating! But we didn’t saunter into Lodeve in time for lunch!! And it continued to be so cold, with the icy wind blowing a gale, specially when we were at the exposed spots at the top…Amr said his app said it was 42 km/hr at one stage, but not sure if that was the max…sometimes you could hardly walk against it. But we are lucky, despite the cold wind, it remained sunny and blue sky. So many wildflowers out now - we saw lots of lavender and irises, which you associate with this part of the world, and the new oak leaves are so bright and beautiful.

After about 12 kms we realised we needed a break, and tried to find a semi sheltered stone to sit and eat…very pleasant, but about 50 metres further we found the perfect spot, tables, sheltered and a superb view ….too late - if only we’d ventured just a bit further!

This hotel is part of a chain we loved when we were on the walk from Vézelay, and where we always seemed to have the surprisingly superb meals…so here’s hoping for tonight. Tomorrow we take a bus to Montpellier where we stay for 2 nights before getting a train to Barcelona on Friday. Just a little break between walks! But we are familiar with the Camino walking, and there is no tough bush walking there like we have had for the last 3 days, so we feel very relaxed!Read more