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A Memorial Camino for Amr
  • Rosie Marzouk
  • Cathy Sertori

A Memorial Camino for Amr

Cathy and I are walking from León to Sarria, 11 days of walking. It is the walk that Amr and I had planned to do in April/May, so he will be walking with us in spirit. Read more
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  • Trip start
    September 14, 2025
    A Memorial Camino for Amr
    Farewell Sydney

    First day, setting up!

    September 14 in Australia ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    This is just a start, while I am at home on good wifi. Cathy and I will continue when we meet at the airport I am sure. As usual, I will be horribly early, but can’t help it after years of practice…I am all packed into my carry on bag, not worrying about weight as we have 15 kgs on business class, and I think it weighs less than 10 kgs! This is just a boring beginning to get set up and remembers how to do it all. More to come…

    Now at the airport, in the airNZ lounge. After all my worrying about being annoyingly early, Cathy actually arrived before me!! But we are checked in with our 2 boarding passes, and now having a wine and nibbles only, as don’t want to spoil my appetite for the Qatar airlines business meal! Anyway, this is really all for today. Cathy will add, but I think it will be fairly similar …all very smooth so far…I just keep getting edgy about losing my passport or phone…but we won’t have any drama..
    Cathy’s comments:
    Checking I can actually edit the blog from my own device - look out for my take 😉.
    To be fair, I was 4 minutes earlier than agreed and Mum was already there, just making her way from the train station 😆    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Arrived in Madrid

    September 15 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    We are here…arrived after perfectly calm flights…I have enjoyed the delights of business class I have to admit, and the space specially on the second flight was just amazing…and this was the smaller plane, a 777…I didn’t really snooze on the second flight, but was so relaxed and now it is after 9 pm Madrid time, and I feel we have done amazingly well!!!

    We arrived at about 1.30, and got an uber at Cathy’s insistence…Amr and I would have taken the metro, but that would have involved 2 changes of line, and it was a good decision….so we arrived at out hotel, where I have stayed several times before, very nice, very central, and we have a room overlooking the plaza at the opera. All perfect.

    Pete’s sister, Margaret Moore is by chance in Madrid, and arranged to stay here at our hostal, and we have spent a delightful afternoon wandering around this central beautiful area. I found I remembered places and directions, and we had a drink in the Plaza Mayor, then had some shared tapas (croquetas, meatballs, ensalada) not to mention the vino tinto and blanco. It is hot, and you know I wilt in heat, but it was fine..dry and non wilting type of heat…and we weren’t rushing round sightseeing…just wandering.

    We ended up in the bar/restaurant opposite our hostal (that we can see from our balcony) and had a nightcap, or 2 and are now settling down for the night…times are weird, and I will take a pill and hope to adjust to Spanish time. So lovely having the time with Margaret, also a Camino lover, and tomorrow we will continue our relaxed Madrid time. No amazing photos…mostly just us drinking at bars….and I forgot to take a photo of the room before we had messed it up…all is good in Madrid and now Cathy will take over, and I will have a shower and wind down…have just looked at the photos Cathy sent me and she has one of the room before messing up..👍
    Cathy’s comments:
    Well I think mum has covered it all well. She did quite take to business class well. And yes, I did convince her that I didn’t want to take 3 metro lines after a 25 hour flight to our hotel and an uber was a good option. Fab to have Marg join us at the bars and a great first explore of Madrid. No controversy so far 😉    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    View from balcony
    Not good pic, but it shows my yum pastr!Note the chiperones a la plancha, and the pimientos de padron..YUM1

    Our day in Madrid

    September 16 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 21 °C

    We both had a reasonable sleep, with a bit of wakefulness, but when the other was asleep, but overall we are now on Spanish time, and woke to a beautiful morning. Quite pleasantly cool to start with, and now warmer, but amazingly it is not bothering me! Cathy and I are having a lovely downtime in our room, with the curtains and windows open, listening to the bustle outside and quietly doing our thing. Margaret has gone to see a Spanish friend a short distance away for an afternoon visit, and I will try and remember our doings so far.

    We met Margaret and set off at about 9.30…(Cathy and I had already had a short wander to test the air) and then we went to my very favourite pastry shop just off Sol and had breakfast…I had an indulgent Napoletana crema, Cathy had a ham and cheese toasty and Margaret 2 mini croissants…all happy, but we did agree that it wasn’t an amazing coffee!!

    Then we searched for and found the market - the Mercado San Miguel - this was not a market of fruit, veggies, meat, fish, cheese sellers, but a display of delectable foods for you to eat there or take away…amazing stuff, and I took a photo of my two faves all in one display…chiperones a la plancha and pimientos de padron…we got some fruit and I had an orange and strawberry juice…we were still full from breakfast…

    We then wandered past the royal palace, an enormous building, and also went into the modern but beautiful cathedral right beside it. Then wandered further to the Plaza de España which had works and scaffolding everywhere and wasn’t looking its impressive best…then back along the Gran Via, past so many enormous beautiful buildings, back through Sol and found the place where Amr and I had a wonderful time together on our last day in Madrid in May last year. I really wanted to revisit it, and the experience was delightful again…we just had their specialty which is garlic prawns, done SO well…with crispy bread to dip in the oil…and with a couple of beers, and sangria in Cathy’s case, all was perfect…

    Well that was a pause …we had downtime, totally relaxed, and set out at about 6 o’clock…not exactly sure, but we felt it was time, and we didn’t know if Marg was going to come to eat with us or not. It was beautifully clear, with this intense Spanish sun at the end of the day, and we had a bit of a walk before we settled in at the bar we see from our room, and where we were yesterday….so Cathy and I had a red wine for me, and an Alberiño, which she had had and enjoyed yesterday, for her. We were having an apertiser of crocquetas and suddenly Marg appeared…the waiter saw her and directed her to us…he knew where she belonged! We are now locals!! So we continued with some salad, and calamaris a la plancha, which is essentially chiperones a la plancha…and was divine!!! I remembered to take a photo before it was all eaten…otherwise, we just talked and enjoyed our time…and I ended up with a Baileys (not O’Donnell’s), and at 10.30 we are back in our room..Cathy showered first while I wrote this, and now she will add her take…
    Cathy’s comments:
    To be fair, Mum has done a reasonable account of our day. A great day in Madrid and it was quite warm. When preparing for tomorrow’s departure, Amr was with us, ensuring we were ready to go probably a half or hour before we needed to. We will honour his wishes and onwards to Leon.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Arrival in Leon

    September 17 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Rowan, I’ve been given first blogging rights as a trial for a Camino post…
    We both slept well, Mum waking about 5.30 and me 7.
    We packed up our gear and headed out with Marg for breakfast just across from our hotel - prioritising good coffee over pastries. Good coffee, shaved ham, tomato purée on bread rolls. Perfect sustenance before our train trip.
    Marg walked us to Sol metro and we farewelled having spent 1.5 wonderful days together enjoying Madrid.
    An easy metro trip to Chamartin and a short walk to the “fast train” station. Mum got an important email saying the 11.23 train was now departing at 11.26 and to be there half an hour prior. We were there early (thanks guardian angel Amr) and our platform wasn’t announced until 11.27 and left about half an hour late - Spanish time.
    The train was fast, up to 300km/h - a quick 2 hour trip to Leon. It was only about 1km walk to our hotel, it was warm, about 30 degrees. I did look up Ubers- none available. I agreed to walk, a shaded path and not too many cobblestones. It was actually an easy walk to the hotel. A lovely quaint, old wooden hotel. We checked in and had a lovely chat to Paul. We then took off to see the magnificent cathedral and opted for a beer (Mum) and Sangria (me) overlooking the cathedral rather than exploring inside today.
    As we were hungry and our cafe didn’t serve food (Mum didn’t want me hangry) we popped across the square, still with a superb view of the cathedral, and enjoyed a delicious burrata and a vino blanco and Tinto. We then meandered through the streets finding plaza mayor with a detour via a less salubrious part of town and found the restaurant that Mum was keen to eat at. After freshening up, out we headed.
    We had a wander around this beautiful city Leon and were keen to get a table at Rua 11. Luckily we did as it was continually packed and busy. We enjoyed a delicious feast of fresh produce. Mum showed a pic of her last visit to the place and the owner recognised Mum, Amr, Rich and Rachel. He took Mum’s phone to share the pic and acknowledged their previous visits. A lovely meal. We then wandered for a nightcap over the cathedral. A perfect evening.

    This is now me, Rosie, having my say…it’s all very well giving Cathy a turn of being first, but the whole thing is delayed because we went out and ended up too late, and Oz is now already awake…but I have to say that Cathy has well described our day…it is surreal arriving here (for me the 5th time) …but never before by train…3 times walking, and one - after hospital - by bus. León is such a beautiful city, and we are going to have a whole day tomorrow wandering round and seeing all the beauty, before we leave walking on Friday. It really was so gratifying tonight when the main guy at the bar (Rua 11) where we ate was so excited at the photo we showed him of us (Amr, me, Rachel and Richard) in May last year…he took my phone to show to the woman…it is such a hip and happening place, with people queuing to come in…it is very small, and very limited seating…we prowled earlier and saw that they opened at 8pm, and were there almost on the dot, and finally left at 10.15 when someone had booked…a great night…all is going well.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Full day in León

    September 18 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    From now on we have breakfasts at all the hotels, and from tomorrow our bags are taken from door to door…very comforting!…so we had a good breakfast - at this place you each get a plate of a bread roll, 2 mini pastries, slice of cake, slices of jamon and a bottle of OJ. And you get tea, coffee etc…and other condiments…much too much food for many, but a good start and I had my first Cola Cao of the trip, preferring it to the coffee in a jug, although Cathy said it was ok.
    That is a long talk about breakfast, but shortly after we left and were ready to visit the cathedral when they opened at 9.30…an excellent move because it is before the large groups etc arrive. So we had an audio tour (uploaded to your phone) of this wonderful building, with the pure gothic lines and amazing stained glass windows.
    After that we did a walk beside and behind the cathedral where the old Roman walls join the cathedral walls..very pleasant, and along there we did have a coffee, very good, and of course as almost always here, any drink is served with something to eat, so 2 pieces of cake…I indulged, Cathy didn’t! Then, with Amr in mind, we went to check on our route out of town tomorrow morning. I have done it before, and should be perfect, but all I could think of was that the exit was near San Marcos, once a monastery and now a very posh parador. We knew looking at maps there was a direct line to get there from near those walls, but we diddled round and round along wrong streets till we now have it all sorted, and feel confident for the start of our walk.

    That got quite a lot of steps in and and by now we were hot. When we first left the hotel in short sleeves we found it was rather uncomfortably cold to our surprise! So after the cathedral we did pop back and get jackets and of course soon after had them tied round our waists as it heated up like yesterday. But it was deliciously cool for walking early. Anyway, we went to a nice bar near a park and each had a sangria, which this time it came with a small portion of tortilla and bread…just perfect for lunch as neither of us were very hungry for a real plate of food, and this was just delicious.

    Then we had a little sit in the park, Cathy called home and had good chats, and now a little downtime. This afternoon we’ll do our walking pack, set up sticks etc. and we’ll find somewhere appealing for dinner. - I’m hoping to find my chiperones, or pimientos de padron, but who knows.

    A lovely pre dinner walk in the intense sun (Spanish sun always seems more intense in the afternoons than anywhere else…I know that must be mad, but it is so bright and invasive!)…we ended up having a drink where we went last night pre dinner…the waiter remembered us, he is so nice…this time the wine came with a slice of pizza!! Actually delicious, and we ate it, so not dying for dinner, which won’t be till at least 8 anyway, and back for another pause before venturing out. Cathy has now discovered the joys of Alberiño, a Galician white wine, and doesn’t drink anything else!! And we haven’t even got to Galicia yet! I think in the Bierzo area she will have to experiment…I will leave an account of the end of the day to Cathy, and any other comments of our doings…considering that a twin room consists of 2 twin beds pushed together, the same as a double room would be, we are doing very well in our new found intimacy!!
    Cathy’s comments:
    Mum has done a detailed account of the day, nothing more to add. I’ve got my first blister due to the many kms we did today to find our route out of León and we haven’t even started the Camino! The cathedral is a truly stunning gothic architectural building.
    Dinner tonight was where we had a nightcap last night. A delicious feast of artichoke and paella overlooking the cathedral. An earlier dinner (relatively speaking for 🇪🇸) ready to set off waking tomorrow.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    2While in Spain Ted graduated 🙌
    1Mum setting offMum relieved we were on the right pathFaceTime with Liv and Louie212A well deserved beer 🍻

    First walking day completed…..YAY!

    September 19 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 30 °C

    We are at Villar de Mazarife, and walked 21 kms, which is our second longest walk, so we are happy, sitting in the garden of our Hostal with a beer, and have that lovely post walk high. It was comfortably cool when we left at about 8.30, and the first 2 hours, or more, were really boring - going through the outer industrial suburbs of León.

    Then we had to find our turnoff to Mazarife and we were warned that the signs are painted over and misleading, but I do remember doing this in 2018 and it was clear which way to go, as we were not following the main road, but going across fields to here…at this point Cathy turned into the fearless leader when we found no signing to Mazarife, she turned on the online map that our Camino people sent and found our route, and once we had chosen the right route there were many Camino signs…

    So then we walked through countryside, hay stacked up, a couple of tiny villages, quite monotonous, and a bit of uphill….but we made it, greeted at our accommodation by a friendly hostess, found our room and bags and all well. This place is also an albergue and there are large dormitories and the walls seem to have little soundproofing, but should be fun dinner at 7pm, nice and early.
    Cathy will continue the story, and fill in gaps…I think I’m now so relaxed I can’t write more!
    Cathy’s comments:
    Mum has covered day 1 well. We were quite exposed walking the alternate trail as it was hot and little shade. Passed a lovely Christmas tree farm as well as pretty poplars. It was also quite an ascent. Shout out to Mum who doesn’t like the heat and who powered through, our lovely hostess was impressed with Mum’s age. Thanks Jess for the shoe tip, so far so good!
    Yes the walls definitely need sound proofing, despite having a private room, it feels as if our neighbours are with us in a dormitory (picture loud talking Americans).
    A lovely communal dinner with French, German, English and Aussies. Ironically the Aussies we had dinner with went to bed and the French and Germans joined us for a nightcap out in the garden.
    Lights off and ready for tomorrow.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    Leaving our Hostal
    Mum using her app to note foliage1Enjoying a well deserved sangria1Hotel garden

    Day 2. Mazarife to Hospital de Orbigo

    September 20 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Despite earplugs, there was no escape from our loud, oblivious American neighbours. Their alarm blasted at 6am with continuous irrelevant chit chat until they left for breakfast just before 7. I managed to snooze a little longer and Mum wakes up about then, and she is quiet!
    A great breaky of muesli, toast and coffee, chatting to a nice Norwegian.
    Many walkers leave before it’s properly light to avoid the heat. Can’t see the point in that.
    We left at around 845am. A straightforward route and a remarkably easy 15km walk, a few degrees cooler at 26. We stopped half way for a rest. No roses to smell, however beautiful sunflowers, fresh fields of green and lots of birds chirping along the way. We made it into town around 1230pm. We found our hotel, and it was closed until checkin later on, so we found a groovy bar in town and enjoyed a sangria or two (me) and potato tapas. Checked into our hotel which is like a little sanctuary with its courtyards. A little rain, so relaxed in our room before dinner and after it cleared up, we read and relaxed in the garden. Another communal dinner by chance as we met up with a group of 3 friends travelling together and another solo companion all from the USA. An enjoyable dinner.
    Over to Mum / Rosie.

    What can I add? That is a pretty good description of our day…Luckily tonight we had dinner with 4 very nice Americans, so they have redeemed their country’s reputation…tomorrow we walk to Astorga, a beautiful little city on a hill…there is a chocolate factory there, but being Sunday it is sure to be shut…but there is a Gaudi amazing building and enormous cathedral, and we stay at an actual hotel…lovely variety on the Camino. Time for shower and bed.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    1Massive squash in the field1Looking down to Astorga1You can see the Cathedral towering up over everything21FaceTime with Paul1Cantina - hippy Camino stop

    Now in beautiful Astorga

    September 21 in Spain ⋅ 🌬 15 °C

    This morning was cold, about 8° and we started off with jackets on and fingers tingling. And a cold wind, which we seemed to be walking into…so I first took off my big blue hat, changed to my small floppy one and finally abandoned hats and just put up the hood on my jacket…but it was absolutely invigorating, and we strode off at a good pace, walking with Sandee, one of the Americans we met at dinner last night. She is very pleasant, lives in Northern California, and is walking alone, and using the same company to book her itinerary so we are staying at the same hotel. The walk was 17.9 kms and we took about 5 hours including stops. Left Hospital de Órbigo at 8.45 and arrived here at the hotel at 2.15.

    Today was not monotonous countryside - it undulated, lots of cornfields, we walked up hill and down dale. Stopped a couple of times…once at a bar where I introduced Sandee to ColaKao, and once at a small hippy bar where there was a man playing a guitar (of songs even I remembered!) and a dog wanting people to kick or throw his ball, they sold fruit, tea, coffee, juice…Cathy has made a nice video of the scene that she will add.

    You get to see Astorga in the distance long before you actually arrive, as there is a complicated rail crossing and then you have to ascend to enter the walled city. We found our way to the lovely, very comfortable 3* hotel, overlooking the Gaudi palace, and all is good. We have dinner here in their fine dining room..now about to go out on the town to explore, and Cathy will continue ….
    After a relax at the hotel we meandered the city walls, wandered through the city. As it was really windy we opted for a pre dinner drink at the bar. Despite being an opulent hotel, service was like Fawlty Towers and no tapas with the drinks. We went to a Mass at the nearby convent. Mum and I had a lovely dinner at the restaurant hotel. Delicious scallops and salmon. A chat with Paul before bed as he’s arrived with Charlie and Jaimee in Italy. Sleep calls as another big walk tomorrow.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Astorga to Rabanal

    September 22 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 7 °C

    Thankfully the breakfast wasn’t the Fawlty Tower experience of the previous day. Good coffee, so I had two, and ready to set off with Sandee on this cold (6 degrees) morning at 9am.
    No issues following the Camino today. We went up 300m in elevation, a gradual rise so you didn’t really notice it. We stopped along the way every 5 or so kms at pretty stone villages for refreshments. A final 3 km incline through oak trees and pines led us to this beautiful town of Rabanal. There we met up with Richard who was staying at our hotel. We ended up having a bit of a street party of pilgrims - people we had met along the way and new. Enjoyed a G&T and wine in the sun and our hotel picked us up as we are staying 5kms out of town, as it was full. The place is really lovely, spacious with a lovely courtyard. We enjoyed a thoroughly lovely multilingual dinner and a delicious feast in this rustic hotel.
    It’s late and over to Ma to comment or not…

    I will add my 2 cents worth, but am about to crash - it’s after 11, and we have another not so long, but quite demanding walk tomorrow. Today we walked about 19 kms, it was fun though…not difficult but a bit endless! We had to ring for a lift back to this delightful accommodation in a town, Santa Colomba, about 5 kms from Rabanal, but first had drinks in the street with a variety of pilgrims…Cathy and I finished the gin supply…it was a melon gin and tasted very melony! But all good…tomorrow we get to the highest point, but we are already quite high…and it is where we leave Amr’s stones from Shelly Beach. Off to sleep…    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Rabanal to Acebo via the Iron Cross

    September 23 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 17 °C

    We are now at Acebo, a small village half way down the mountain to Ponferrada. We walked 17kms which sounds easy, but it has been the hardest so far, for me anyway! …just aching lower back, and amazingly I am just back from a massage!! Not usually my thing, but I needed it and feel good…am also going to take some anti inflammatories just to be sure! Apart from that annoyance, it was a lovely day…very cold again, making hands ache. We were dropped back to Rabanal by our lovely host, Javier, met Sandee and set off at about 9.

    We knew we had to ascend to the highest point, 1505 metres, where the Iron Cross is, and the stones. It was quite a moment…Cathy and I each took a stone, with Amr’s name written by Sonny and Jaxon…we found a good place to leave them - high up, in the centre of things, which is what he liked! There are photos, and you will see.

    After that we started the long trek - it had felt a long way getting to the high point, but the rest of the walk down to Acebo did seem LONG…because it was difficult walking..loose uneven stones, slanting slate, and then the long descent…but we are here, in a very modern albergue which has private rooms. Our room is built out of hollowed rock, or that’s what it looks like…certainly the wifi doesn’t come in…but will get it in the bar where we are heading soon!! Amr and I were sort of here 2 years ago, we ate here but our room was up in the village. There wasn’t much sign of the bushfires a few weeks ago…just a little scorched patches amongst the heather on distant hills. And we see Ponferrada set out below us, our destination tomorrow. Sandee is staying somewhere else, but is joining us for dinner here at 8.30. She has become a Camino family member! Cathy will add the dinner story, and any more comments of the day, and the photos…
    Cathy’s comments:
    Not too much more to add. It’s been a physically and mentally challenging day. Mum was amazing and I remind her it’s ok whatever way we do the Camino as she’s continually conquering it.
    A communal dinner and a fun evening.    Read more

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    Acebo to Ponferrada

    September 24 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 10 °C

    We both slept well and woke to a beautiful sunrise and another cool start to the day.
    Mum made the wise decision to share a taxi (arranged with another lady the night before) for the first half of the walk as it was going to be a lot more slate, rocks and continuing the steep descent. It was a good decision. I walked with Sandee setting off about 830am and agreed to meet Mum 2 hours later.
    It was a steep descent and lovely trail. We met up with another pilgrim and talked most of the way and the walk went quickly.
    We met Mum in a gorgeous little town, Molinaseca for coffee.
    We then continued on the final 8kms to Ponferrada. A larger town with 69,000 people.
    We are staying in a great hotel just outside the city walls.
    We walked to the main square via a laundromat (doing Amr proud) and had a light late lunch to avoid being hangry (me) and 3rd time likely found an ATM we could withdraw €.
    We had a meander via the castle and beautiful churches and squares before we met Sandee and Tim for a drink. Mum and I enjoyed a delicious feast at a favourite restaurant of hers and Amr’s (La Violeta) in the main square.
    A lovely chat with Paul at the restaurant and then Moo when we were back at the hotel. Time for bed for these pilgrims!
    One last reflection from me…
    Mum has become somewhat of a celebrity on the Camino. A number of people have asked her age (just as well she’s happy to share) and I find it amusing they don’t think twice about asking! The masseuse, Mexican, Polish, Aussie and Swedish pilgrims have called her an “inspiration “, which she is!
    Over to Mum for any additional comments:

    Well, it’s now after midnight, we are sleepy (Cathy already has eyeshades on)..but I will write a little bit…I was happy to miss the second half of the downhill walk…some muscle has tweaked in my lower back (my theory is trying to reach toilet paper twisting round in a very awkward place!) and it was perfect timing meeting Cathy In Molinaseca AND the taxi driver was Luís, my friend from 2 years ago…he wouldn’t have remembered me, but he was happy that I remembered him! So we are in lovely Ponferrada and yes, we found a laundromat nearby so all good. We went to find an ATM for cash for the dryer while the wash was on and found later that we could have done it on a card!! Oh well, euros are always handy…lovely dinner and had long chat with Michael who has just arrived in Frankfurt…so we are all (Cathy, Paul, Michael and I) on the same time zone. Was falling asleep during Moo’s call, but now showered and hope I can actually sleep. Good night…    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    Connection to Egypt (Amr)!1Delicious grapes fresh from the vinesDonna and Janice - Canadian 🇨🇦 buddies23Mum surprised at the quantityMum accepting the challenge3Mum leaving the dish almost as it arrivedStill room for rice pudding

    Ponferrada to Villafranca del Bierzo

    September 25 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 23 °C

    I woke up again with a decision to bus it for the first 15 or so kms…I felt absolutely fine, but knew it was the longest day, and the very best part is the last 9 or so kms from Cacabelos. And being familiar with the bus station from 2 years ago, after breakfast I waved Cathy off on the Camino trail (she is a caminologist now and knows all the tricks of following the arrows), and then wandered down to the bus station, bought a ticket for the 10.30 bus for €1.60, and got there not very long before Cathy arrived, with 2 Canadians she had been walking with…we all sat down for a little lunch and a break for the walkers…it had been about 15 kms from Ponferrada. So we set off together for the last 8 or 9 kms and I have to say I was in heaven…this is the walk through and above the Bierzo valley, filled with vineyards, mountains in the distance - just beautiful…it is grape picking season, and we saw several trucks going by laden with containers of grapes, but didn’t see any picking - many of the vines looked already grape free…it was not a huge distance, but was quite demanding walking, uphill and down dale, and my back behaved and felt normal thank goodness. A very long day for Cathy…we are now having downtime in our very sweet hotel in the Plaza Mayor, and dinner is down the road at 8.30 so lots of time. Wifi is very weak here, being down in the valley, so am sending words alone first and pics later…Cathy will add her words, and choose pics…
    I had a peaceful hour walking on my own and then met two lovely Canadians and we walked the next 2 hours to meet Mum, easy company. Mainly walking through towns and the last few kms via lovely vineyards before we met Mum. Post Mum’s other comments. We had a drink in the square and dinner close to the hotel. Mum ordered beef and got through as much as she could and still had room for rice pudding 🤣.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
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    Leaving Villafranca6Who does this look like?Fish - a preferred option1My spacious room!1Mum on the balcony

    Villafranca to Ambasmestas

    September 26 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    We had a lovely breaky overlooking Plaza Mayor. There were 3 options today the kamikaze route (Mum was a spoil sport and didn’t want to do that option); the steep ascent via the mountain pass or the country road path via two little towns. Thankfully Mum recommended the road more travelled. It was a gentle ascent up the valley. We stopped at Trabelo at the 10km mark for a coffee and a hot chocolate. A pleasantly straightforward walk today and a mere 15kms! My knee is grateful for a shorter walk after the big one yesterday.
    We arrived in the heat at this tiny town Ambasmestas. Found our bags and we believe a suite and Mum and I each have a double bed in separate rooms! Unexpected and a treat. Mum stayed at the hotel unwinding and had an apple for lunch, I found a bar in town, open and had delicious ham and cheese on toast and a wine as we have finished the walk! I ran into a lovely German girl we’d met this morning. She’s going on a further 9kms. Check out the photo and let me know who she reminds you of… this tiny town doesn’t go to sleep and a hive of activity at this little bar. After a lovely downtime (perhaps a snooze) we met for dinner and Mum chose the fish and me chicken. Yum. It was quiet. So I encouraged mum to go to the local bar for a baileys- she obliged. All men, we actually asked if women were welcome and we were with open arms. A Bailey’s and a white wine. We are ready for the Camino tomorrow.

    Now my take…yes, today was the gentlest day, and we arrived to find a sleepy town and the hotel all closed, with a sign to ring to find out how to enter…which we did, got the code and found keys in the rooms so we gathered we each had a room, as there were only one double bed per room…what luxury, to have a night of privacy, after being in 2 beds pushed together!! So we settled in - beautiful spacious rooms, with balconies…finally there was a man at the desk for a sort of check in…delightfully relaxed…the same man served us at dinner…only other guests seem to be 4 Belgian cyclists…such fun going to Cathy’s bar after dinner…noisy hubbub of male voices, but we joined them with heads held high and I had a Baileys, and finally even a couple of women and even a small child came in too…
    Girding up for tomorrow’s walk…the big climb to O Cebreiro…only about 13 kms, but constantly uphill…then we have a rest day…the weather has been kind…not a cloud in the sky…really cold, 6° in the mornings - hand aching - but up to very comfortable 20° or so later…hopefully this will continue for tomorrow - the magnificent views make the climb up worth while…off to bed now.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    Spot Mum!2Well earned break at La FabaGalicia3Our chef 🧑‍🍳3

    We have climbed to O Cebreiro

    September 27 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 15 °C

    This morning we left just before 9. Made sure we had a good breakfast to sustain us for the big day. It was just beautiful and cold as usual, fingers numb at first, and there was a high cloud cover which was good for sun protection, and also made the spectacular views very clear - no haze. The first few kms were a very gentle incline, but then came the relentless uphill… but we took it slowly (me) and stopped at the little towns for sugar and liquid boost, and we made it!! The amazing views kept us happy as we went…there were many people, mostly passing me as I plodded, but I managed it well as the tortoise! We crossed into Galicia, always a sign that we are nearly there… and are now in the land of lush veg gardens and tall cabbages… I love it! And even cows with bells..
    We are not actually staying at O Cebreiro as it booked out (it is a tiny village) and we are at a nearby town, picked up by kind hotel man… but before that in O Cebreiro we had some sustenance - Cathy a huge slice of tortilla, and me a huge serving of octopus, with beer/sangria…our lovely hotel man, Marcelino, has shown us where we might eat tonight, but at the moment I can’t imagine ever eating again!
    Cathy will continue with our evening experience!
    Mum was a Camino celebrity again today, people saying she was inspiring and amazing! Which she is / was. This was especially noteworthy as it was a slow steep mountainous climb of 600m elevation and 13.5kms. She was asked to be in two selfies. One Spanish family whose son is living in Manly was thrilled to take our photo.
    Stunning views the whole climb up and it was good to stop to let them sink in. Very happy it was a cool day for the climb.
    We went to a local Taberna for dinner, the only place open to eat in town. Not that many people out for a Sat night. We spent about 10 mins trying to order a G&T- we ended up with some form of brandy being poured until what I thought was a homeless man asking for money came and helped interpret what we were after. He was actually the chef! We had a simple and freshly cooked dinner. Rest day tomorrow- hooray!    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    1
    12Afternoon drink with Golan

    O Cebreiro - reflection 💜

    September 28 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    A day of reflection - appropriate as we remember Amr 6 months today since he left us 🙏💜. It feels like 6 years, and an eternity for Mum.
    A misty and cool start to the day. We caught a taxi to O Cebreiro, a Celtic town. We wandered up to the highest point, a cross on top of a mountain with 360 degree views overlooking the village and valley. We then meandered through the village, which is tiny and found a place for coffee / hot chocolate.
    We went to Mass at 12noon, not expecting it to be overly busy - it was packed and we were glad we were early and got a seat. It appeared there was a wedding or Baptism about to take place and it became clear it was a Baptism which took place after Mass. Before that a tour group were called to the front of the Church and a Monk explained the history of Santa Maria Real Church. We then lit candles for Amr and other special intentions.
    I may have done a little shopping while Mum scouted a place for lunch. We enjoyed an empanada and vino. A pilgrim we had met before came in and called out “Rosie”. Hartley - you may be correct and I will need to fulfill bodyguard duties.
    We met Sandee and Tim (our fav pilgrims) after their climb and had a lovely catch up over food and wine sharing our travel stories and more. We wandered back to the beautiful Church to see the chapel that Richard and Rachel had commented on. We ran into Golan (pilgrim friend) and had a wine and chat before our taxi. Really interesting discussions on life, countries and religion. After some quiet time in the hotel we braced ourselves to head to the local Taberna again. It worked out a treat. They know us well. We forgot complicated orders of spirits and stuck to what we knew and had a vino and some tapas.

    Now my turn for the day… Cathy has put it well…this place feels very much an Amr place, and it was the right place to light a candle for him…💜
    We realised we were so lucky with the weather yesterday as this morning we woke to foggy mist everywhere, which is normal for here, but the spectacular view was invisible until it gradually lifted… but never as clear as yesterday. The pilgrim who called out Rosie was Golan, who we met at Acebo - he is Israeli and such a beautiful person… I really enjoyed meeting him again later this afternoon and philosophising… we may see him again tomorrow, also Sandee and Tim… I have decided to get a taxi for the first 5-6 kms which makes the walk about 16 kms… Cathy is happy! We had a great time at the taberna tonight… just wine and small plates, randomly selected by them but which worked… we were greeted as old friends and I even had a thimbleful of a Baileys look alike to finish… good night    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    1
    1800 year old oak treeRoom with a view1

    O Cebreiro to Triacastela

    September 29 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    Today we had a beautiful walk to Triacastela, through spectacular countryside… basically down, but with a couple of altos… as planned I got a taxi to the small village about 5 kms from Cebreiro… When we were taken from the hotel in Pedrafita it was totally misty - a whiteout - but as we reached O Cebreiro, only a few kms away, we came up above the fog and it was clear blue sky, and a lovely day…Cathy set off with Sandee and Tim, at about 8.45, and my taxi at 10 got to the meeting place just a few minutes before they arrived.. perfect timing. So then we all walked together, sometimes chatting to others.. it was quite busy on the Camino as a group of English, with T-shirts with pink bras printed on, all started today, they were walking for breast cancer… so there was quite a hubbub at the start… but it always evens out, and we walked through such lovely countryside, first we were above the mist, then it all burnt off and we had views down to the valleys below… very peaceful. Had a couple of stops for refreshments… I enjoyed a cheese omelette for lunch… shared with Tim, and of course ColaCao…it is sunny and quite hot now that we are down from the heights. Had a sangria stop on the way into town and are now checked in to our very comfy accommodation… even with microwave and coffee machine which we won’t need as dinner and breakfast are included…very comfy hanging with Sandee and Tim…will probably meet for dinner… today’s walk was 21 kms, and 16 for me. Just one more walk day to Sarria tomorrow. I’ll leave it at that, and leave it to Cathy to report dinner.
    A lovely and long walk today. Spoilt with the weather. More ups than reported and happy to reach our resting spot, Triacastela. We enjoyed downtime and met Tim for dinner - Sandee needed rest as both have been battling colds. Pleasant dinner and now ready for bed.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    Charlie and Jaimee light candles for Amr in France
    A candle for Amr in Strasbourg, FranceTim and one of his "wives"Tim, Rosie and his real wife SandeeSpot Rosie1Pumpkin 🎃 patch1Liv and Louie happy to chat. Ted?Cheers 🥂 we did it!Toast to Amr 💜

    Triacastela to Sarria

    September 30 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 22 °C

    Our final day of walking. We have walked / hiked 200km.
    It was appropriate today was Amr’s birthday to celebrate him and the finish of our Camino.
    Today’s walk was just over 18km and a 230m ascent. I asked Mum if she’d like to get a bus / taxi any part of the way, I was told no. Knowing I have been told this before, I let it be.
    We set off with Sandee and Tim around 9am.
    It was a beautiful walk, perhaps I’m getting used to the longer distances, however it didn’t feel as strenuous. There were, as anticipated, and sometimes unexpected, up hill climbs and descents through forests. There weren’t as many places to stop for coffee along the way.
    About 7kms in we came across a hippy commune, offering various snacks. Sandee and Tim explored a labyrinth of quartz and Mum and I chilled. We took off again and at just over the half way mark we found a fab little taberna for lunch.
    The rest of the walk was mainly a slow winding path into Sarria via the picturesque countryside.
    Mum and I have another spacious room - so we can spread out. Great as we are here for two days.
    After downtime we walked to meet Sandee and Tim at their hotel for a celebratory drink of finishing our Camino. It was a lovely catch up and they are such a great couple who we have enjoyed sharing the Camino.
    Mum and I headed off to a restaurant recommended by our host. It was a great choice. Coincidentally, Golan showed up and was thrilled to join us for dinner. A relaxed dinner and a toast to Amr back at the hotel.
    Over to Ma…

    It has been a good day, filled with Amr thoughts…so many people have reached out…he is still remembered by so many…even our Camino people had flowers sent in our room in memory of him…Today’s walk was through beautiful countryside, corn, cows, beautiful valleys…so peaceful…a perfect last day of walking and contemplation…an Amr day…but every day is an Amr day.
    We were having a dinner by ourselves, but by sheer coincidence Golan appeared, and joined us which was delightful…he is so nice, and seems to enjoy our company….with the oldies…that even includes Cathy !!! So we are now back in our spacious quarters…a toast to Amr..💜💜💜    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    1
    22Perfect lunch1Our spacious room1Flowers from Follow the CaminoFarewell dinner

    A day in Sarria

    October 1 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 26 °C

    Another clear and perfect day.. cool in the morning and now almost hot in the afternoon. We woke and had a leisurely breakfast at 8.15, and were helping ourselves to the yogurt, cheese, salami, toast etc when Marcela, our delightful hostess, bustled in with a dish of freshly scrambled eggs… so I quietly put back my yogurt, and we started on that when she bustled in again with pancakes with hot chocolate sauce!!!
    Anyway, we had a good breakfast and set off to explore a bit. I led Cathy down the paths I knew, past the line of restaurants by the river that we used to haunt, but at 11am things were very quiet - not yet lunchtime and before the influx of today’s pilgrims. We then followed the pilgrim route up the stairs (Sarria is yet another town on a hill) via many albergues, restaurants and churches to the lookout at the top, where there is also a ruined castle. On our way up we stopped for coffee (me because Marcela’s coffee was not good) and discovered that this restaurant did chipirones a la plancha which I have been seeking in vain since I arrived in Spain… so a potential place for dinner…then back for some downtime in the lounge and garden area of our beautiful casona. A good relax.
    Then another excursion for a light lunch to tide us till dinner… we went back to the river area now that places are open, and to my joy I found and had - finally - my chipirones, and Cathy had delicious avocado on toast with dried fruit and nuts…apparently delicious. Now back and resting till the next excursion to dinner.

    Over to Cathy for the evening…

    We met Sandee and Tim for a G&T at their hotel again as the waiter is a professional G&T maker, even explaining how he carves off the pith. We wandered back to the river as Sandee and Tim hadn’t been there. We were lucky to find a table outside as it was busy. An enjoyable and easy meal with our lovely Camino buddies. Now relaxed back at the hotel having a nightcap and hopefully check in with Paul, Charlie and Jaimee.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr
    1Chipirones 🙌
    We enjoyed it!Happy with an alberinoInches apart 😳Always a cat 🐈‍⬛

    Sarria to Madrid

    October 2 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    We had a delicious breakfast and packed up our room and bags.
    We set off for coffee and supplies for our train from Sarria to Madrid.
    When we got to the train station it said there was a bus for the first part of the journey due to fires. We spent about an hour on the bus through picturesque Galatian countryside.
    We then transferred to the train to Madrid, taking 3 hours. A lady suggested you could get a train to the airport and pick up an airport shuttle to our hotel. We had initially thought an Uber. To my surprise (& pride), Mum said it was probably easier to get a taxi / Uber, which we did.
    The hotel was surprisingly in a good neighbourhood and apart from our beds being an inch apart, it’s a great choice. I was also proud of myself to find a delightful little bar / taberna that had - dah dah - “chipirones a la plancha” = “grilled baby squid”. They also had my favourite drink of the trip, alberiño - a delicious white wine.
    A lovely way and to end off our trip.
    Off to bed before our early flight and our alarm wake up call.
    I’m sure Mum would like to add some comments…

    Of course I will add comments…not much to say about trip to Madrid except it was perhaps a bonus to have the bus to Ourense, as we drove through spectacular mountains and canyons which I am sure would have been just tunnels in the train. And the train journey to Madrid after that was mainly tunnels which kept popping our ears and only arrived 15 minutes late… that’s what happens when you hurtle along at 250 kms per hour.
    But the highlight of the day was of course the just perfect chipirones (and I’ve even learned how to spell it correctly!) - yesterday’s was good, but it was sprinkled with oregano, whereas they should be just with oil and lemon and an aioli to dip in…anyway an amazing find near this little airport hotel, and we are retiring happy, but with an alarm set for 5.30am.    Read more

  • A Memorial Camino for Amr

    We are home

    October 4 in Australia ⋅ 🌙 16 °C

    Just a post to say we are back…after very smooth and luxurious flights in business class! No delays, no problems, no turbulence…lovely food and wine on the planes. Cathy had a bit of chaos as she picked up the wrong bag from the carousel in Sydney…And another funny thing, in the lounge in Doha I asked for a Campari, as I saw a bottle there. He put some ice in a tumbler and almost filled it up! Even I who love Campari couldn’t finish it before we had to leave to board…anyway, all good…I have already done a wash, and must try to feel ready for bed. Paul and Jaimee are now on their way back, arriving tomorrow…all the pigeons are returning home.Read more

    Trip end
    October 4, 2025
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