• Rosie Marzouk
Current
  • Rosie Marzouk

Back on the Camino

I am meeting Rachel and Richard in Pamplona and we will walk together to Burgos. Read more
  • Currently in
    🇪🇸 Iratxe, Spain

    We are at Los Arcos

    Yesterday in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 13 °C

    Another really lovely day! It feels repetitive but we keep walking through wonderful countryside, spectacular panoramas - crops of very bright green grain crops, yellow canola fields, vineyards still looking rather bare with leaves just sprouting, olive groves here and there…what more could you want! And we are blessed with the weather - today started coolish, but soon we had shed all layers to our shirt sleeves but it wasn’t too hot, there was a pleasant breeze, and blue sky and sun…

    So we left Estella at about 9…totally relaxed, and of course there was the wine “fountain” …not what you really feel like so early in the morning, and we didn’t have receptacles but we all had a few drops (me in the palm of my hand!)…and we walked on, up and up to Villamayor de Monjardín, looking back and amazed to see towns and mountains so far away. Then it was basically downhill to Los Arcos, but by then it did seem a bit long, even with the beautiful surroundings…we stopped and ate now and then - beautiful fresh bread we bough this morning in Estella, with cheese, mandarins, sometimes bread with honey (and butter we had pocketed from breakfast)… chatted with people following our timing …all so special…the 3 of us are a wonderful team, and travelling well.

    Tomorrow slightly shorter…about 18 kms I think - to Viana. Today was 22.74 kms and 34,953 steps.
    Read more

  • Great day, now in Estella

    April 14 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 6 °C

    We have had a wonderful day…perfect walking weather - fine, with puffy clouds floating around, but not threatening rain, cool - it said 6° when I woke, but I could see that it was going to get warmer than yesterday, and sent the puffer jacket with the bag and just had the wind jacket, and by the end had got down to just shirt sleeves…but not hot. And we just walked through spectacular panoramas, with the bright green of the grain crops, the bright yellow of the canola, interspersed with vineyards just starting to sprout leaves, and olive groves.

    Today’s walk was a series of serious uphill climbs leading to little immaculate towns, then down again and up again…the first was the hardest, with a finale of steep grade…but we survived, me plodding and pausing for breath, but once at the top all was forgotten! We stopped for refreshments whenever we needed to, and there was a bar…and just sat down by the side of the track and picnicked. Very relaxed, and we are now at Estella in a hostel I haven’t been to before, but very good, and we were sent to a restaurant in the main square for dinner. R and R both managed enormous hamburgers, I ordered a burrata salad which was delicious but enormous and too much to finish - and I hate to leave anything…but we all managed a small dish of caramel ice cream after!

    This is rather a quick sketch of the day…it is hard to remember specifics, and I need to go to sleep soon! But have to add that I did 25.27 kms, and 38,489 steps, including breakfast and dinner!
    Read more

  • Now at Puente la Reina

    April 13 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 8 °C

    First day completed!! According to my watch and phone we did 24.74 kms and 37,690 steps (but that does include walking to breakfast and dinner!). But we have survived, and it was a great day. Beautiful green waving new growth of the grain crops, the bright yellow of the rapeseed fields…and clouds that scudded and were blown around delivering sprinkling rain between bursts of blue sky and sun. Rachel and I put on ponchos at one point when it looked as if it might get serious, but it never did - where we were anyway, there was pouring rain in some parts by the look of it.

    It was 6°when we started and my hands felt freezing and stiff…so surprising as I was focused on the heat predicted in Madrid before I left! But cold weather is ideal for walking, and I loved it. It did warm up but I did wear my puffer jacket all day - just removing the fleece layer. The highlight of the walk was the long ascent to the alto del perdon which is always a challenge, but we made it, and from there it was downhill all the way…we are staying at the same complex of albergue/hotel we always have stayed…it has been renovated and tarted up, but basically the same, and good. Just had a hearty meal…finally some fresh veggies…and an arroz con leche which I love. Tomorrow we walk to Estella which is slightly shorter than today, but I always remember feeling quite tired on arrival there, so we’ll take it easy, like we did today, stopping, pausing, taking our time in a comfortable way. All good. Off to bed.
    Read more

  • Fabulous day in Pamplona

    April 12 in Spain ⋅ ☁️ 6 °C

    We have had a great day…after the really good buffet breakfast here - fresh fruit, OJ, yogurt, ham, cheese, bacon, scrambled eggs, pastries, coffee…really good coffee, and croissants as good as in France! So a good start, and we meandered at first, partly searching for a laundromat and food shops for supplies for tomorrow, and also checking churches, and Mass times…such a wonderful old city area, we also know where to join the Camino route out of town…so we came back to collect washing as Rich said he do the deal there (all I contributed was my nightie as I had worn it with the bedbugs! and wanted to feel it was cleansed! So we bought supplies, Rich washed and then we set off again and had a great time seeing amazing churches and settled on San Lorenzo for 6 pm Mass…this church has a chapel of San Fermin which of course is famous and big - san Fermin is the patron saint of Navarra, and the running of the bulls is the festival of San Fermin. City looking so beautiful with light green new spring leaves , and tulips and early flowers. We chanced upon the citadel where you can wander like a huge park and found ourselves on top of the high walls we had seen yesterday, and looked down on the paths below, and the drawbridge…with the boring looking modern city in the distance, and then the Pyrenees…(see pic coming up)…at some stage we stopped and had a bight of lunch of the inevitable ham and cheese rolls, but wonderful breads…then after the Mass at 6, which was crowded, and not with pilgrims, just regular people and families…good to see. Then we looked for somewhere to eat…hard to dine actual restaurants…all bars serving tapas, so again we picked some, and Rich had beer, I had vino Tinto and Rach tonica. Wandering back Rich dragged us into a place called Melt which had queues…it was a cheesecake shop and we got a delicious wedge with pistachios and 3 spoons! As we got back to the square we decided to have a nightcap at the Hemingway Cafe Iruña, wonderful atmosphere and great art nouveau decor…I had Baileys (very generous serve on ice - €4), Rich had Jack Daniel’s and Rach had a ColaCao…now back, sorted out bag for tomorrow, showered and bedtime. Just that wandering was 11.66 kms and 18,300 steps!Read more

  • Reunion in Pamplona

    April 11 in Spain ⋅ 🌧 8 °C

    Well, to continue the saga of my lone travels and eating, as you saw in the photos of yesterday I did venture out and had a lovely meal at the bar opposite, where I went with Cathy and Margaret in September…very nice, and had a bit of a wander after but felt fairly fuzzy to came back and had early night…so slept early-ish maybe 9-9.30, but woke up at midnight with a bit of an itch and thought not nearly intense enough for a bedbug…but it was ☹️☹️.. I finally got up and found one, and then another under the pillow…so slept the rest of the night with light on and eye shades…so annoying as I get these huge itchy welts…and the room was spotless, and such a great place…but people bring them in.
    Anyway, woke really early and finally gave in at about 5.30 and did wordle and fiddled and diddled till about 7-7.30 when I ventured out to see if anywhere open for breakfast…and after a wander and inspection found a jamon shop which made delicious jamon and cheese baguettes and I had one for there and one to take for lunch in the bus (each was 1/2 baguette size)…so got to the bus station - the metro card worked, and the metro journey so easy, but was glad I’d allowed time to work out a potentially complicated estacion de autobuses because it was! Finally with the help of kind people and info people I was on the right bus, left on the dot and arrived on the dot at Soria - very small unremarkable town with, thank goodness, a simple bus station, when we arrived there was just one other bus there which was the Pamplona bus. Perfect. And after about 2 more hours arrived here on the dot. Though I’ve been to Pamplona 3 times before, never the bus station, but found myself underground in complicated complex, with no immediately obvious exit etc…the other bus passengers seemed to have dispersed and was wondering whether to head towards taxis, then saw an escalator leading up to daylight, so decided to see where that led, and as I was sailing up, heard a yell and there were Rachel and Richard sailing down!! They’d come to meet me!! So excited and happy to see them…and what a miracle we did coincide like that - it was meant to be!

    So we had a lovely afternoon wandering a little and retracing the real pilgrims route in as they had come in the river route as had Amr and I 3 years ago. We had met about 3.45 so it was late afternoon and at about 6, after a spell back in our rooms which are right opposite each other, we went out and after a bit I led R and R to a favourite place which at that time was crowded round the bar, but tables beyond fairly empty so we took a table and ordered drinks and tapas from the bar…lovely…had a second round of tapas and then I showed our busy but friendly waitress/bartender a photo of me there in 2018 with an amazing ensalada mixta and she said we could have one and brought us the most delicious one (I didn’t think the kitchen was doing meals yet as it was only 7 and restaurants don’t open till 8…anyway, by the time we left at about 8 the place was so full we could hardly squeeze through the crowd and our table was immediately taken. It’s Saturday night in Pamplona…So that is all I can remember. And I think I’ve been very long winded about it…tomorrow we all rest and explore…R&R of course walked in today from Zubiri and had barely checked into their room and relaxed before they came to meet me, so they need a well earned day of rest after crossing the Pyrenees by the high route!

    Will add pics, but forgot to airdrop with Rach, so just have mine.
    Read more

  • Back to Madrid and our lovely hostal

    April 10 in Spain ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    The flight from HongKong to Madrid was smooth and easy…I really liked Cathay…again in little nooks, slightly different format as this was an airbus and the first one was a 777, and I rather preferred this…or maybe I’ve now learned the little knobs and tricks…anyway, it was good, and timeless - I watched a movie, Song Sung Blue as it was the only one in the huge selection that I’d even heard of, and it was good…watched a few episodes of TV series that I could cope with, and read, and lay back and drifted off to sleep for quite a while…when we took off I didn’t feel hungry at all and said I’d let them know when I wanted something (they had a list of all day/night offerings) and when I surfaced and realised I’d missed 2 meal servings I couldn’t wait till breakfast which was still about 6 hours away so ordered a dish with cauliflower and lemon aioli, cubes of sweet potato and pumpkin seeds on a bed of quinoa…just perfect…probably just normal for all those used to business class travel, but I am still greatly in awe of this all, hence the long descriptions of what is rather mundane!

    Anyway, we arrived on time, bag retrieved and then the only glitch in this till now perfect journey - the transfer person never showed…I was rather excited to think I’d be greeted by someone with my name on a placard, but no. It may have been complicated because I was at the puento de encuentro really quickly - landed at 9.30 and there soon after 10! No crowd in passport control, just straight through. But I waited almost an hour, and in the end hopped in a taxi and was delivered here, and only €33…I bet the transfer would be more.

    Went to room, relaxed, a bit of downtime during which I got totally stuck on Wordle (and still haven’t succeeded), and then went out into the lovely spring Madrid day. New green leaves and blossoms looking beautiful and temperature in the 20s, quite crowded as I believe it’s school holidays.

    I first went down into the metro at opera, right outside the hotel, to check on my metro card as want to use it tomorrow to get to the bus station. I was fiddling and working out how to do a top up and a kind young man looked at the reading of my card and explained that I still had 2 trips on it, and not to top it up yet as long as I was in the city area, so here’s hoping it will work tomorrow.

    Then I popped into a little place, Tapa Tapa, which does just that and had a perfect little plate of tuna with guacamole and seaweed, and a sangria. Then a bit of a wander round the familiar streets till I felt as if time to blob, even had shower now as in evening may be too tired to organise clothes! And might have been too tired to write this and even remember the doings of the day.
    Read more

  • Made it to HongKong

    April 9 in France ⋅ ☁️ 23 °C

    All going smoothly, and very smooth in business class…slightly different from the Qatar seats I had with Cathy last year…everyone was enclosed in their own little nook…I didn’t sleep, but admit I was a bit dozy by the end, but am reserving the serious sleeping for the next flight, as it is longer, and we land at 9am…I watched a movie Song Sung Blue and enjoyed it…and it was about the only one I’d ever heard of…likewise with the audio..the only classical music was Lang Lang playing, beautifully but that was virtually all I could find…finished a book and started another…so doing well.

    Now in the Cathay lounge with a Campari….not feeling like food now…Rach and Rich are now in Roncesvalles, over the Pyrenees, 2 more walks and they will be in Pamplona, and so will I!

    I will put in a couple of photos from R and R as they are so beautiful, and all I can offer if pics of food and drink!

    I’ve just seen that it says “today in France” which is because the first photo is of R and R in France before they walked into Spain…but don’t be misled, I’ll be in Spain!
    Read more

  • Setting off tomorrow

    April 8 in Australia ⋅ ⛅ 25 °C

    I am more or less packed and ready…the flight on Cathay leaves at 2.10 tomorrow and I arrive in Madrid early on Friday morning. The next day, 11th is a bus trip to Pamplona where I will meet Rachel and Richard who will have walked 4 days from St Jean Pied de Port, over the Pyrenees.

    This is just a starting post to remember how to do it…(Tallie helping) and it won’t get interesting until Madrid!
    Read more

    Trip start
    April 9, 2026