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Darren and Janet
Darren and Janet

Darren and Janet

📍 Malta Read more🇦🇺Adelaide
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  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Boċċi - red wins 2 shots (jack is between the red balls and green cylinder)
    Our final drive out of XewkijaATV Buggys awaiting new customers as we depart GozoPopeye VillagePopeye Village close-upPopeye VillageParish Church of MelliehaLike the rest of Malta, the cemetery is overcrowdedJensen's Lookout over Mellieha. Playground for the kids, bar and cafe for the adults1Love a bit of stair art, MelliehaOur hotel in the square, GhaxaqDecorated house, GhaxaqRed knocker attempting to remove the green ball (the jack is to the left of the green ball)Boċċi action

    Setters or knockers?

    Yesterday in Malta ⋅ 🌬 17 °C

    It was our final night on Gozo, and after breakfast we made our way to the ferry terminal for the trip back to Malta.

    An uneventful crossing saw us in Mellieha mid morning for a walk around the upper part of town that we missed last week (in the rush to get to Gozo before the storm hit), exploring the town square and Jensen's Lookout.

    We headed out of town to Popeye Village, the set of the 1980 Popeye movie and had lunch in the cafe there.

    To reach our hotel for the night in Għaxaq (pronounced ash-a) at the eastern end of the island, we had a long drive by Maltese standards (30km). It's fair to say we had our navigational challenges, with the satnav telling us to take exits at roundabouts that didn't exist... and vice versa 😵‍💫. After we parked the car and checked in we were happy to take a walk to find a few caches.

    On our walk we came across a game of Boċċi, the Maltese form of bocce. Played on sand courts like bocce, teams use 3 coloured balls and 8 cylinders per side, to try and get their coloured balls closer to the jack (which is only marble sized). Where it differs is that players are designated as either setters (to get their coloured ball closest), or knockers (to throw the cylinders with the aim of knocking their opponents balls away).    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    2Ramla Bay from Ulysses Lodge
    Ramla BayRamla Bay, Mixta Cave at the top left of the cliff behindRamla Bay from Mixta CaveSan Blas Bay... ready to walk the last few hundred metresRoad down to San Blas Bay...almost there!San Blas Bay, storm damage to the railing and embankmentSan Blas beach has an extra supply of stones thanks to Storm HarryDaħlet QorrotDaħlet Qorrot caves cut into the limestone cliffDaħlet Qorrot storm damage - the slab on the left was originally below the bottom stepDaħlet Qorrot fishermen (and woman)Hondoq Bay. These motor homes will have fun getting out after Harry covered the road with rocksHondoq Bay, and desalination plantThe roads need plenty of work, even in the towns

    Down, down, down to the coast

    January 23 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    Another day exploring various bays and harbours , this time in the north west of Gozo.

    The roads between the coastal towns tend to be very narrow and/or steep, so the safest way to travel around the island is to come back almost to the centre to Victoria or Nadur, before radiating out again. The main roads are definitely less stress inducing, but there's always the last little bit to negotiate!

    First stop of the day was Ramla Bay, widely considered Gozo’s, and arguably Malta’s, best beach. Known locally as "Ramla il-Ħamra" – the Red Sandy Beach, it has a number of cafes set back from the beach (all closed for winter), and, strangely, a statue of the Vigin Mary on the beach.

    We travelled back up for our second view of Ramla Bay, from the abandoned ruins of Ulysses Lodge. It was a popular wedding and events venue in the 1980s and was abandoned in the late 2000's. It offers great views of the bay (and of course, there's a cache there).

    On the other side of Ramla Bay, Mixta Cave also overlooks the bay, and is accessed down a narrow lane, so barely recognisable as a road, that the tourist guide advises to "look out for the subtle turnoff" (most things are not signposted).

    The most difficult bay to access today was San Blas Bay, which is notoriously challenging (which apparently adds to its charm and seclusion!). The journey involves navigating a steep and narrow road from Nadur, the last part closed to traffic due to its steepness, requiring visitors to walk down to the bay. This steep descent is not for the faint-hearted, but the owners of the refreshment stall at the bottom (who were cleaning up storm damage today), told us that very few of their customers come from the land, most are dropped off by boat (for those who find the walk too strenuous, a jeep service is available to transport visitors down and up the hill for a small fee during the summer months).

    Our penultimate stop was Daħlet Qorrot, a secluded pebbly cove, known for its crystal-clear waters and historic limestone boathouses carved into the cliffs by local fishermen.

    Last stop was Hondoq Bay, on the southeast coast, with views of Comino, and also home to the only desalination plant on Gozo, which allows the island to be self-sufficient in water.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Għasri Valley
    2Postage time, Victoria1Ta' Pinu, from the Stations of the Cross lookoutOne of the statues on the Stations of the Cross walkAmphitheatre at the peakXewkija Rotunda visible in the distanceRural Gozo, near Marsalforn2Me at the cache, Oliver at the car, near Xwejni salt pans2Lunch, Marsalforn. During Storm Harry, the sea inundated the land from near the red carMarsalforn BayMarsalforn harbour view living1Cache find in XagħraCup of tea on the deck at dusk

    North coast

    January 22 in Malta

    Today's driving was to the north coast, but first a visit to Victoria to find a Post Office and do some shopping. The city centre was chaotic, so we decided it was easier to pay for a park at the Citadel and walk back down to the shops.

    Heading north, our first stop was The Basilica of the National Shrine of the Blessed Virgin of Ta' Pinu, 3km from Victoria, and 700 metres from the village of Għarb. It sits out amonst rural properties like the proverbial sore thumb, and was built in 1883 on the site of a small 16th century chapel, with money raised by public subscription. We also walked up the Stations of the Cross walk, 14 statues spread along a winding path up the hill opposite the church, with an amphitheatre at the summit (and a cache, of course).

    Next stop was Għasri Valley, a narrow snaking sea canyon, known for its quiet beach, which is 300 metres inland from the sea. The sea is only accessible via a narrow cove with high cliffs on both sides, and steps carved into the rocks. On a fine day it's a popular spot for swimming and diving, but it was a bit cold and rough for either today.

    We continued via some more salt pans and a few caches to Marsalforn for a late lunch. The restaurant we stopped at, on the foreshore, had water 1m up their walls during Storm Harry, and were still cleaning up the street.

    We arrived back in Xewkija in time for a cup of tea on our deck as the sun was going down.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Salt pans below Xlendi watchtower
    Xewkija Rotunda, visible from miles aroundMġarr ix-Xini mouthMġarr ix-Xini beach endXlendi harbour, still cleaning up after the stormXlendi, stairs to cliff top walk2Waves hitting the sea wall, XlendiXlendi Bay and watchtowerAbout to cross the 16th century bridge to Xlendi watchtowerXlendi watchtower and cliffs1Cliff erosion, XlendiWeather coming!Toward the Inland Sea, sadly obscured by dilapidated fishing shacksInland Sea6Inland Sea, opening to the sea1Local bakery, Xewkija. No advertising or fanfare, all the locals know where they are3Quite a set of doors on Xewkija Rotunda

    Hairy trip to the Inland Sea

    January 21 in Malta ⋅ ⛅ 14 °C

    We got an early start today to make up for yesterday's lack of action and headed to the south coast, first stop the tiny bay of Mġarr ix-Xini. The name translates to "the carrying of the boats" and refers to a time when pirates from the Barbary coast frequently raided Gozo and took away many Gozitans as slaves, from this bay.

    Heading west, we had morning tea and a cliff top walk at Xlendi. In summer it's a bustling seaside resort, but today they were busy cleaning the streets and footpaths after yesterday's storm. We had 3 locals tell us today it was the worst weather they'd ever experienced on Gozo, including one chap who's lived here for 70 years.

    We visited Xlendi Tower, the oldest tower in Gozo (built 1650), and the salt pans nearby. The salt pans are part of the centuries-old Gozitan tradition of sea-salt production that has been passed down through the generations.

    From Xlendi we intended heading to the Inland Sea on the west coast. The 10km trip took us over an hour and were some of the worst roads we've experienced. On two occasions the road was so narrow and the hairpins so sharp that we had to do a three point turn to negotiate the corner. Then we reached a section of road that was completely block with roadworks, so backtracking a few kilometres was required (thankfully not down THAT hill again!).

    We finally reached the Inland Sea just after 3.30pm. Also known as Dwejra, it is a lagoon of seawater linked to the Mediterranean Sea through an opening formed by a narrow arch.

    We arrived back in Xewkija in time to visit the bakery for dinner - anchovy ftira for me, calzone for Oliver.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Xewkija Windmill
    Rotunda Xewkija this morningRotunda Xewkija detailRotunda Xewkija detailThe deserted streets of Xewkija5Found the Gozo chapter of the Liverpool Supporters Club, set up like an English pub inside.Xewkija WindmillInside the grain storeroom, Xewkija WindmillGloomy skies from the balcony this morning

    Walking tour of Xewkija

    January 20 in Malta ⋅ 🌧 14 °C

    Storm Harry hit the islands overnight and delivered the expected winds and coastal damage. Everyone was encouraged to stay indoors, and all ferry crossings were cancelled for the day.

    We didn't get much rain, but the wind was blowing all day. By mid-morning the worst had passed so we went on a walk around Xewkija.

    Xewkija (pronounced show-key-a) is the oldest village in Gozo and is best known for its circular church at the centre of the village. This is Gozo’s largest church, its dome a distinctive landmark visible across much of the island, and can easily accommodate the town's population of 3,000 people.

    The streets were almost deserted and most shops were closed today. One of the few things open was the Xewkija Windmill. Built in 1710 its the oldest surviving windmill on Gozo and was once the centre of the flour production for the area.

    Fun fact: Malta has the highest density of windmills in the world, with 1 windmill every 9sq km (the Netherlands has 1 every 39sq km).

    We had lunch at a cafe on the outskirts and found a supermarket open for some fruit... then it was back to the hotel as the rain started late afternoon.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    3Rotunda of Xewkija, from our deck
    Ferry to GozoGozo's frame, with a view of Ghajnsielem Parish ChurchNadur square... most businesses closed today due to the weatherCity view from Victoria CitadelWatch tower, Victoria CitadelInside Victoria CitadelVictoria CitadelChurch forecourt, Victoria CitadelEnclosed balconies, VictoriaNot sure what sort of car you're hiring from here!Xewkija town square, from our hotel room

    Don't pay the ferryman...

    January 19 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 14 °C

    ...even when he gets you to the other side!

    We're travelling to Gozo today, second largest of the 21 islands that make up Malta. It is much more rural in nature, so we expect less crowded roads and smaller towns.

    The ferry ride across is about 20 minutes, but you only pay on the return journey from Gozo to Malta . Getting here is free!

    We are awaiting the arrival of Storm Harry and authorities expect gale force winds to hit the islands overnight and tomorrow. As it was unclear when the wind would start, our hotel on Gozo messaged us this morning and recommended we catch the ferry across early in case they were suspended later in the day, so we headed to the ferry terminal just after 9am.

    We just missed one leaving (they weren't running to a schedule today because of the weather), so had to wait about half an hour for the next. The crossing was lumpy, but not particularly rough.

    The wind had already picked up by mid-morning, so instead of touring the coastal areas as planned, we went inland to the biggest town, Victoria... confusingly also known among the native Maltese as Rabat (which is the name of the old town centre - Victoria is the name given by the British, so many Maltese still prefer to use the local name).

    The town is dominated by the citadel, with uninterrupted views in all directions. Most of the shops in the citadel were closed today, and very few tourists around, so we almost had the place to ourselves.

    We arrived at our hotel in Xewkija late afternoon, which is situated in the town square. The main building in the square is The Church of Saint John the Baptist (commonly known as the Rotunda of Xewkija), a massive church that dominates the region skyline.

    Dinner was at a bistro across the square... the only one that was open.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Comino coastlineSt Mary's Tower, CominoFormer barracks, then isolation hospital, now abandonedTight parking on CominoTrack up to the cemetery, CominoSanta Marija Bay, CominoThe coastal track was a bit vague in places!Blue Lagoon was lovely and quiet today....1How Blue Lagoon looks in summer!View of Mellieha from the Red TowerSaint Agatha Tower, known as The Red Tower, MelliehaCoastal view, near Mellieha

    Comino

    January 18 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 16 °C

    Today we caught the ferry taxi service to Comino, Malta's smallest inhabited island, with a permanent population of 2.

    It's now a nature reserve and a significant bird breeding site, and has previously been used for farming, military purposes and as an isolation island. At its peak it had 2 hotels (both now closed).

    The harbour, known as Blue Lagoon, is one of the most popular beaches in Malta in summer, and is the subject of much argument about exploitation and environmental damage, and the existence of "temporary " food trucks which are left in-situ year round.

    After a few hours of walking on a variety of tracks and terrain, we caught the 2.30pm ferry back to Marfa, one of the towns on the north coast. Afternoon tea/late lunch was in a hotel on the foreshore, then a bit of caching on the way back to our hotel.

    We cooked dinner in our room with Marina, and she made her way to the airport at 7pm. Fun fact, Malta International Airport today had flights to and from 61 different destinations!    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    1Kids enjoying the "snow"
    Hail on our rooftop deck. Photo taken at 3amHail on the footpath this morningMdina entranceDefensive moat around MdinaInside Mdina2MdinaMdinaMdinaSemaphore Tower, Gharghur. One of 6 towers constructed to facilitate communication across the islandView north from Victoria Lines near GharghurVictoria Lines, near Gharghur1Walking up from the Victoria Lines

    Almost snow, Mdina, and Victoria Lines

    January 17 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    We were woken at 2am to a thunderstorm, with heaps of lightning and hail. When we left the townhouse about 9am, there was piles of hail in the streets and covering the footpath, and they were still there 3 hours later. The local kids were having a ball, as snow is very rare in Malta, but today was the closest they may ever get to it (Malta has not officially had snow since 1962).

    Before departing Rabat we walked up to Mdina, also known as The Silent City. It's a fortified city next to Rabat and was the island's capital from antiquity to the medieval period. The city has not spread beyond its ancient walls, and has a population of approximately 300.

    We walked back to the car and headed north, stopping for lunch in Gharghur, then visited The Victoria Lines. Originally known as the North West Front, they are a line of fortifications that spans 12 kilometres across the width of Malta, dividing the north of the island from the more heavily populated south (think Great Wall of China, but not so grand).
    It was built by the British military in the late 19th century, to present a barrier to invading forces landing in the north of Malta, and protect the British fleet based in Valetta. Military training exercises in 1900 revealed that they were of dubious defensive value, but they were never tested in anger. By 1907 they were abandoned altogether.

    Accommodation tonight is in Mellieha, a town which describes itself as a "rural village and tourist resort"    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Clapham Junction cart ruts
    Cache huntingView of not Dingli Cliffs... from on top of Dingli CliffsSt Mary Magdalene chapel, Dingli CliffsDingli Cliffs, the best viewSt. Paul’s CatacombsSt. Paul’s CatacombsSt. Paul’s CatacombsExiting the catacombsSt. Paul’s Catacombs2Does that sound delicious, or what! That's them at the bottom (not enough anchovy for mine)

    Dingli Cliffs

    January 16 in Malta ⋅ 🌧 15 °C

    We had a guest arrive today - our friend Marina travelled from Romania to join us for the weekend, so we had an extra set of eyes for the caches 😁

    We headed south to the coast, and the Dingli Cliffs. First stop was at a tiny chapel dedicated to St Mary Magdalene, where the tourist buses stop. We couldn't see what the fuss was about, as this site afforded no views of the cliffs we were expecting.

    Before leaving we sampled a traditional Maltese coffee from the food van onsite - a blend of coffee beans, infused with chicory, cloves and aniseed.

    A bit further down the road we spotted an interesting cache that had quite a few favourites, so we decided to stop. There were a few other people, but no facilitates, tour buses or signage... and this place had the best views of the cliffs by far. Turns out the place they promote as Dingli Cliffs is actually standing on top of the most picturesque section, so you can't see them!

    Next stop was Misrah Ghar il-Kbir (informally known as Clapham Junction), a prehistoric site near the Dingli Cliffs. It is best known for its "cart ruts", a network of tracks carved in the rock. The age and purpose of the tracks is uncertain with estimates of their origins ranging from the Neolithic to Medieval times.

    Last visit was St. Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat, part of a large complex of underground tombs once located outside the walls of Mdina and Rabat. The catacombs date from Roman times and were in use until the eighth century. After their rediscovery in 1894, some were used as air raid shelters during WWII.

    As it was raining steadily most of the afternoon, we adjourned back to the townhouse and had dinner in.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    One of the watchtowers used to warn of invaders and give the people time to flee to a fortified city
    The Blue GrottoĦaġar Qim, view from a distanceĦaġar Qim, main temple entranceĦaġar Qim, doorwayĦaġar Qim, interior chamber2Basilica of St Paul, Rabat2Maltese tea in the square, Rabat2Oliver at our townhouse door2Our rooftop deck. There's worse views to hang the washing...Ħaġar Qim, main templeView from a watchtower along the south coast4Driving along our little street, Rabat

    Ħaġar Qim and Blue Grotto

    January 15 in Malta ⋅ ⛅ 16 °C

    Today was Maltese food day, and visiting some of the big ticket tourist sites.

    The day began with a drive to the south west coast from our centre island location, a journey of 12km.

    First stop was the Blue Grotto, a limestone archway in a sea cliff, through which you can take a boat ride in fine weather (10 Euro, 20 minutes), and admire the crystal clear waters. It's billed by Malta Tourism as "majestic", "phenomenal" and "a bucket list must". In reality it's an unspectacular hole in a rock, and way overhyped. No boats running today, as it was too rough, but the cafes and souvenir shops were happy to take your money.

    We had a traditional Maltese lunch at one of the above mentioned cafes - ftira, a ring-shaped flattened sourdough roll usually eaten with fillings such as tuna, fresh tomato, onion, capers and olives (hold the olives on mine).

    Next stop was Ħaġar Qim, a series of 5,000 year old megalithic temples, predating both the pyramids and Stonehenge. There are 2 main temples, featuring slab walls, doorways, and altars, and only a few statuettes were found during excavation (no bones or utensils), which leads them to believe they were used for worship, not habitation. They are made of limestone and very close to the coast, so in 2009 a roof was built over them to protect them from further deterioration.

    Dinner was alfresco in the Rabat city square. Bragioli for me (stuffed Maltese steaks - essentially steaks stuffed with meatballs, covered in a tomato sauce. Also called Beef Olives, they contain no olives, but are the shape of olives).

    And for Oliver, rabbit stew, the national dish of Malta. Rabbits gained popularity in Malta when the Phoenicians introduced them in around 900 BC as a dependable source of fresh meat, and are still popular, becoming a cultural symbol during British rule, representing Maltese identity.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Mdina Glass display
    Manoel Fort gatesFort Manoel from the frontIl-Mitħna ta' Għadriet, 17th century windmill, now an art studioAmphitheatre in Ta'Qali National Park1Mdina Glass workshop3Mdina Glass Xmas tree, 7m high, made of 2000 handmade glass blown baublesTa'Qali NP

    Road to Rabat

    January 14 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 15 °C

    We began the day with a walk out to Fort Manoel, on the island between Sliema and Valletta, but joined to the Sliema side by a bridge. Unfortunately the fort is closed to the public, but it does afford some good views of the Valletta waterfront.

    We then moved the car for the first time in a couple of days and had an interesting 6km drive, first stop San Anton Gardens. The gardens were planted around the Presidential Palace in the 18th century and has been open to the public since 1882. It contains over 300 plant species from all over the world.

    After a chicken pie from a roadside stall near the garden gates, we had a quick stop at a 17th century windmill before stopping at Ta'Qali National Park, a recently regenerated green space of 35 hectares, one of the biggest green projects in Malta. Part of the project includes an art precinct, picnic area and an open air concert venue.

    We had a look around Mdina Glass in the art precinct, an artisan glassware manufacturer that employs 50 staff.

    At 3pm we headed to Rabat, the city which adjoins the ancient capital of Mdina. Our accommodation for the next few nights is a three story 18th century townhouse, so we went shopping and had tea in.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    1St Paul's Cathedral, major landmark in the city
    Harbour on the walk to VallettaBridge to the new city gate, from the Valletta Ditch, 16th century defensive moatInside the new city gate, ultra modern Parliament House on the right1Augerge de Castille, office of the Prime MinisterValletta, city of steps and cafes1...and more stepsVictoria Gate, the only surviving entry gate to the city from the original fortifications12Coffee on the city walls1Walking around St Elmo's Fort, lower levelBoat Street, below St Elmo's FortFishing huts below the city walls, Siege Bell Monument in the background3Our taxi to Sliema1Farewell Valetta...

    Valletta by legs

    January 13 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 14 °C

    We explored the capital, Valletta, today, across the bay from Sliema. Feeling energetic, we walked around the bay, taking about an hour to get there, and started wandering from the southern end of the peninsular.

    Valletta is a fortified city on a hilly peninsular, and is the second smallest European capital at just 610 square metres. Much of it was destroyed during the siege of Malta in 1942, when Malta faced 154 days and nights of continuous bombing.

    We zig-zagged across the city, visiting numerous impressive buildings, garden, gates and fortifications, collecting 26 caches and walking 14km in the day. It's chalk and cheese compared to the modern high rises of Sliema, with narrow streets, a lot of steps and nowhere near the amount of cars.

    Lunch was in the centre near the outdoor market. We stopped for afternoon tea on the walls overlooking the harbour, before walking around St Elmo's Fort at the end of the peninsular, and heading toward the ferry terminal for the quick trip home.

    As we arrived at the ferry terminal, the large passenger ferry to Sliema had just left, so instead of waiting half an hour for the next one, we headed towards the private water taxi rank and the spruiking "Yes, Sliema by boat", and for just 50 cents more (3 Euro) caught the next 6 person boat back to Sliema.

    We had dinner of soup and quesadillas on the way back to our hotel.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Enclosed balconies evolved under Knights of St. John for status, now a protected cultural symbol
    Carmelite Church, St Julian'sSt Julian's BaySt Julian's BaySliema Tower, aka St Julian's Tower, 17th century watchtowerThe aptly named Tower Road, Sliema11st Sliema Scout Group4Sliema Street (spoiler alert, there's a cache in the phone box)Stella Maris Church, SliemaFort Sliema, now a restaurantView of Valetta from SliemaModern Sliema on the left, Valetta on the right3Fort Cambridge Battery, slated for restoration as a tourist attraction in 2007... still waiting

    Sliema and St Julian's

    January 12 in Malta ⋅ 🌙 11 °C

    Today we explored the cities that inhabit the two peninsulas north of Valletta - Sliema and St Julian's.

    They are seaside resort towns (think Gold Coast, but without decent beaches), with high rises along a promenade, and many restaurants and cafes, and mini-marts on almost every block.

    We visited 1st Sliema Scout Group, the oldest operating Scout group outside the UK (they thoughtfully had a cache hidden in front of their building) as well as various forts and towers, some built by the British to defend Malta and protect their sea passage from the UK to India via Suez Canal.

    We had octopus for lunch in St Julian's, dinner at the Turkish cafe near our hotel, and a Cinnabon scroll for supper.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    View from our hotel, Sliema Bay
    Sliema city view from our hotel balconyParking is tight in the streets of Sliema. Our car is bottom of screen.3Albert Rizzo... world record holder for treading water, 1980.Sliema Bay by nightFirst view of MaltaValetta skyline from Sliema waterfront

    South to Malta

    January 11 in Malta ⋅ 🌬 13 °C

    After a night in the airport hotel, we had a late morning flight to Malta, arriving late afternoon. We collected our hire car and headed towards Sliema, our destination for the night.

    On the map, Sliema is the city across the bay from the capital Valetta, so looked like a good place to base ourselves for a few days to explore the area. In reality it's the most densely populated town on the island, with a plethora of apartment blocks, amongst the tallest buildings in Malta. This has resulted in significant traffic and parking issues.

    We certainly had our fair share of traffic issues on the way, not the least being understanding Aussie Karen's street name pronunciations on Google Maps. We ended up ignoring the voice prompts and relying on Oliver's navigation skills to navigate the many one way streets.

    Parking the car was a whole other issue, as hotel reception informed us that the hotel car park was full and I'd need to park on the street. The parking gods were on our side, as a vacant spot appeared directly across from the hotel entrance. And with no time limit, it may stay just there for a couple of days as we explore the sights of Sliema and Valetta on foot!

    We started that exploration with a short walk down the promenade to familiarise ourselves with the area. During that walk we came across a bust of Albert Rizzo, the first Maltese to enter the Guiness Book of Records, for treading water for 132 hours. He subsequently won the Maltese Sportsman of the Year award. And was later town mayor.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Frozen ground, Buriton
    Distance marker, PetersfieldBuritonMore yarn bombing, PetersfieldHigh street, PetersfieldWetherspoons, Petersfield4When in Wetherspoons...Good use of old headstones, PetersfieldPenfield, where all the major tourist attractions are signposted

    Following the carriage route

    January 10 in England ⋅ ☁️ 1 °C

    Our final full day in the UK and, after scraping the ice off the windscreen, we left Soberton in bright sunshine.

    We had a couple of stops for a cache and a walk, in Clanfield, then Buriton , before stopping for lunch at Wetherspoons in Petersfield.

    Each Wetherspoons has unique carpet inspired by the building or it's location, and this one features cartwheels in reference to Petersfield's position as a resting place on the Portsmouth to London carriage route.

    We arrived at Heathrow late afternoon and dropped off our hire car, having travelled 350km in the week. Taking out the distance from Heathrow to Soberton, that's an average of 40km a day... but we walked an average of 7km a day.

    Overnight in an airport hotel in readiness for our flight to Malta tomorrow.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Market Square Wickham
    2Soberton, early morning walk to the post boxDurley Nature WalkIt's a fine day for the Merry bootsWickhamThe Dip Hole, Wickham.Wickham1WickhamSunset over Wickham

    Curbridge or Curdridge?

    January 9 in England ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    Today was the calm after the storm, with Storm Goretti hitting the south coast of England yesterday, and us getting the edge of the rain and wind, so the day began overcast and with a drizzle of rain.

    We visited various villages in the morning, beginning in Swanmore, morning tea in the Reading Rooms in Curdridge (not to be confused with the village of Curbridge 3km away).

    The afternoon was a nature walk in Durley, then a visit to Curbridge, and finishing the day in Wickham. Apart from a large market square, Wickham also has a Dip Hole - a set of steps built in 1820 to allow the villagers to collect water from the river before Wickham had piped water

    We returned after dark to Soberton, with dinner again at the White Lion.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    2Monument to the Glory of Cricket, Broadhalfpenny Down, Hambledon
    Foggy morning, near SobertonWandering in HambledonBroadhalfpenny Pavilion, HambledonBat & Ball Inn, Hambledon1The parish dividing line in the Bat and Ball pub1Meon Valley TrailA damp Rocky Road Trail, SobertonTrack leading to the Meon Valley TrailPublic footpath, Soberton, at dusk

    The Cradle of Cricket

    January 8 in England ⋅ 🌧 9 °C

    We journeyed today to Hambledon, widely regarded as the Cradle of Cricket. It's cricket club, whose home ground is called Broadhalfpenny Down, was formed in 1750 and was the first headquarters of English cricket (the MCC at Lords was formed in 1787).

    Across the road from the grounds is the Bat & Ball Inn, which straddles the parishes of Hambledon and Clanfield,. The parishes previously had different liquor licencing hours, so at 10pm when one parish had to stop serving alcohol, customers moved across the dividing brass strip on the floor, to continue drinking for another hour.

    We had a walk around the village, then lunch at the Bat & Ball. Our afternoon activities were cut short when the rain came down heavier, so we adjourned back to Soberton and had coffee and cake at the pub.

    We took a late afternoon walk in the drizzling rain along a section of the Meon Valley Trail, a walking and bike track along the route of the former Meon Valley Railway, which runs behind Soberton.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    3Soberton public footpath
    St Peter's, Soberton, bathed in morning sunlightPublic footpath, SobertonSoberton public footpathBrewhouse and bakehouse, Bishop's Waltham PalaceWest Tower, Bishop's Waltham Palace ruinsWest Tower, Bishop's Waltham PalaceBishop's Waltham Palace, Great Hall ruins in the backgroundFrozen lake, Bishop's WalthamSt Mary's Church tower, ShedfieldThe old tower, Shedfield ChurchThe sheep didn't seem bothered that we were passing through their paddock

    Bishop's Waltham

    January 7 in England ⋅ ☁️ 3 °C

    What a difference a day makes! After yesterday's snowy weather, today was blue sky and sunshine all the way. Still only a few degrees, but perfect for a long walk.

    We started on the outskirts of Soberton, parking the car at a trail head just out of town. Over 2 hours we picked up 5 caches, and ended up walking 10km for the day, some through farmers paddocks on the public rights of way, some along wooded tracks through lush greenery.

    We headed to Bishop's Waltham for lunch, then a self guided tour around the ruins of Bishop's Waltham Palace.

    The town was originally named Waltham, but was given to the bishops of Winchester in 904 AD, and renamed Bishop's Waltham. The palace construction began in 1138 AD and underwent various expansions and additions up until the 15th century.

    The palace was abandoned in 1644 after being surrended to the parliamentary forces during the civil war. It was robbed of materials which were used to repair Wolvesey Palace in Winchester, and lay in decay for hundreds of years, finally being handed to English Heritage in 1952.

    Our afternoon drive took us to Shedfield, and a lovely walk behind the church and old tower, before returning to Soberton and dinner in the White Lion again.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Meon, plenty of snow
    6The White Lion, Soberton. 17th century pub, our home for 5 nights.Found the cache in the snow!Parked the car for a few minutes...1Public walkway, CorhamptonCorhampton houseQueen Victoria postbox, one of the small number still in operation from her reign.Winchester city centreWinchester CathedralCity gate, WinchesterWinchester city centre6"Yeah, but I found the cache"St Michael's graveyard, WinchesterApproach to Winchester Cathedral

    Winterchester

    January 6 in England ⋅ ☁️ 4 °C

    Today was the coldest day of this winter in the UK and we had flurries of snow most of the morning. The roads were blanketed in a fine covering of snow, and it certainly made caching more challenging!

    We took the backroads to Winchester, the ancient capital of England from the late 9th century until it was surrended to the invading Normans in 1066 (when the capital was moved to London).

    Winchester is also home to Winchester Cathedral, originally built in 1079. It is the largest Gothic cathedral in Europe, and is the final resting place of Jane Austen.

    We returned to Soberton via Droxford and a late afternoon walk.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Houses dusted in snow, West Meon
    Alton CemeteryThe grave of Fanny Adams, Alton2Pub lunch, West MeonLight cover of snow, West MeonWest Meon walk

    Soberton

    January 5 in England ⋅ 🌙 -1 °C

    We had an early start today and caught the bus to Heathrow to pick up our hire car. Google Maps did a good job of getting us out onto the M25, then on the minor roads south.

    There had been light snowfall overnight, and it was cold enough for it to stay on the ground all day (most of the day was feels like -7).

    First stop was Alton and a visit to the grave of Fanny Adams. She was a young local girl who was murdered in 1867. The brutal murder, so the story goes, coincided with the introduction of tinned meat in the Royal Navy, and the sailors who did not like the new food said the tins contained the remains of "Sweet Fanny Adams" or "Sweet F.A.", an expression which survives today as slang for nothing.

    We stopped at West Meon for a pub lunch, then via the back roads to Soberton, our base for the next week.

    Dinner was in the pub we're staying at, The White Lion.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Teddington Lock footbridge to Swan Island
    Teddington, Mo Farrah's gold postbox, painted to commemorate British 2012 Olympic gold medallistsSt Mary's, TeddingtonTeddington WeirRadnor Gardens, Twickenham1Sunday roast... with massive Yorkshire Pudding

    Long lap to lunch

    January 4 in England ⋅ ⛅ 0 °C

    We have a late lunch booking today with the final wedding extravaganza lunch booked for 2pm.

    Instead of walking there direct (an 800m walk), we left a few hours early and did a 9.5km circuit via Hampton Hill, Teddington and Strawberry Hill, collecting a number of caches on the way and some nice views of the Thames River and Teddington Lock (the lowest lock on the Thames, so the waters below it are tidal). It was cold all day with frost still on the ground as we arrived at the pub.

    Lunch was a traditional Sunday roast with the biggest Yorkshire Puddings ever seen, and stretched out to 5.30pm. Just enough time to pack our bags ready to move on tomorrow.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    2Twickenham Stadium
    Plenty of frost on the ground this morning1I do like a scenic route...Duke's Walk alongside Twickenham StadiumTwickenham Stadium from a distance5In church ready for the weddingUs with the bride 👰‍♀1

    Twickenham - home of rugby, and weddings

    January 3 in England ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    With the wedding this afternoon, we stayed local today with a walk to Twickenham Stadium (officially Allianz Stadium), home of England rugby, and the world's largest rugby union stadium (82,000 capacity).

    We grabbed a light lunch at the Turkish cafe next to our accommodation, then headed to St Mary's Church for Erin and Hugh's 3pm wedding.

    After a lovely service complete with choir and organ accompaniment, we headed next door to York House for the reception .    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    2Dominion Theatre
    3Houses of Parliament and Big Ben2National Covid Memorial Wall5Queues of tourists waiting to get a photo with a phone box and Big Ben in the backgroundHorse Guards Parade, London Eye in the backgroundHorse Guard, WhitehallTrafalgar SquareLeicester Square3Dominion Theatre

    West End girls... and boys

    January 2 in England ⋅ ☀️ 3 °C

    We caught the train to London Central today for a West End musical, allowing plenty of time for the journey to account for some closed lines and rail maintenance.

    We alighted at Westminster Station and joined the throngs of tourists walking around Big Ben, the Houses of Parliament and Westminster Abbey precinct.

    We also walked along the National Covid Memorial Wall, which stretches for 500 metres alongside the River Thames, directly opposite the Houses of Parliament. There are more than 240,000 individually hand-painted red hearts, each representing a person who died in the UK with Covid-19 as a direct cause of death.

    We skirted St James Park, through Horse Guard Parade (site of Trooping the Colour) and had lunch in Trafalgar Square (home to the most favourited cache in the UK with over 4,000 favourite points).

    We continued our walk to the Dominion Theatre for a matinee performance of The Devil Wears Prada.

    Our jouney home was more circuitous, changing trains twice before arriving at Twickenham in time for dinner at the William Webb Ellis Wetherspooons.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Fountain Court, Hampton Court Palace
    CourtyardKing's StaircaseEast Wing entranceGreat HallKing's Guard ChamberAnne Boleyn's Gateway and astronomical clockIce skating in the palace groundsPond GardenDecorative Tudor brick chimneys

    I'm Henry the 8th, I am, I am

    January 1 in England ⋅ ⛅ 3 °C

    Today was a visit to Hampton Court Palace, one of the favourite residences of Henry VIII and his six wives.

    Henry did massive renovations when he took over the palace from the Archbishop of York (who gave the palace to Henry to try to save his own life), quadrupling the size of the kitchens to allow his entourage of over 1,000 people to be fed, and built the Great Hall and Royal Tennis court, as well as his personal living quarters.

    Subsequently William III added his own living quarters and reception rooms, so the palace has 2 distinct styles inside.

    We walked back to our accommodation via Bushy Park, the second largest of London's Royal Parks, home to large herds of deer, and the birthplace of the Parkrun movement.

    Dinner was in the Turkish Restaurant next to our apartment.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    4Happy New Year!
    Top deck travelGTech Stadium, home of The Bees, nestled amongst apartment blocksWater tower, London Museum of Water and SteamLondon Museum of Water and SteamBlack headed gull, plentiful along The ThamesMonument to The Battle of BrentfordDespite the sun being day out, air temperature was below zero most of the day1Our transport todayPre-wedding NYE dinner, The Marlborough, Richmond Hill1Frosty start to the new year, -1 feels like-6 🥶

    Home of The Bees... and Happy New Year!

    December 31, 2025 in England ⋅ ⛅ 1 °C

    We had a late start today, so only ventured as far as Brentford, home of Premier League club The Bees. We had hopes of attending their home game tomorrow night, so dropped into the stadium on the slim chance there were tickets available. But with a public holiday match and only a 17,000 seat stadium, all tickets were gone.

    We briefly visited the London Museum of Water and Steam, then walked along the Thames via a number of caches, with lunch at a Thai restaurant.

    Our last stop was the monument commemorating The Battles of Brentford - the first an Anglo-Saxon victory in 1016 against Danish invaders, and more recently, a Royalist victory in 1642 during the English Civil War, where Charles I's forces pushed the Parliamentarians back towards London.

    When the weather got too cold to continue our outdoor activities (most of the day was "feels like -1"), we caught the bus back to Twickenham for afternoon coffee from the Turkish cafe next door, in preparation for night ahead.

    Pre-wedding event dinner tonight was near Richmond Hill, so at midnight we wandered down to the viewing point and saw in the New Year to a cacophony of fireworks from all directions. The celebrations continued for quite a while, and we were serenaded by the random popping of fireworks as we walked back to our accommodation.    Read more

  • Darren and JanetEngland and MaltaDarren and Janet
    Santa working some serious overtime in Kew Gardens
    Some Swan upping on the Thames at WindsorWindsor Castle1The last original blue mailbox in the UK, Windsor, used for airmail only, from 1930 to 1938Christmas markets, Windsor1The people you meet in Windsor...Christmas at KewAmusement rides, Kew Gardens1Christmas at Kew1Christmas at KewChristmas at Kew

    Windsor, right on Kew

    December 30, 2025 in England ⋅ 🌙 2 °C

    We awoke to blue sky and sunshine... but still only 2 degrees! We caught the train to Windsor, but no castle visit as it was closed today. The Bavarian themed Christmas market was still operating, so we partook in some mulled wine before continuing our walk around town. Without the tour buses, the streets were pleasant to walk, so we had a leisurely lunch in a cafe before catching the train back to Twickenham.

    A quick turnaround at our apartment, and we caught the bus to Richmond, then walked to the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew, for their Christmas at Kew light display. This was the first of the wedding events organised by Erin, so we had the opportunity to meet many of the other wedding guests. The gardens were very popular, with hundreds of families walking the 2 hour circuit, complete with food stalls, amusement rides and Santa still in residence!    Read more

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