Day 8: Into the Hidden Iya Valley

Today was less about photography and more about discovering one of Japan’s most remote and overlooked regions: the Iya Valley, deep in the mountains of Tokushima on Shikoku. Often called one of Japan’s “three hidden valleys,” Iya is famous for its dramatic gorges, vine bridges, remote villages, and roads so narrow they occasionally make you question your life decisions. Historically, this valley served as a refuge for defeated samurai of the Heike clan in the 12th century, which explains why it still feels untouched and far away from modern Japan.

We rented a car and wound our way into the valley, navigating hairpin bends and cliffside roads—equal parts adventure and mild adrenaline rush. Our first stop was the famous Peeing Boy Statue, perched boldly on a rocky ledge high above the gorge, symbolising courage… or questionable life choices. Either way, the view was spectacular.

Next we visited Hotel Iyaonsen, known for its cable-car-access onsen located deep at the bottom of the valley. After days of walking, hiking, and chasing sunsets, the hot spring felt like absolute heaven. Sitting in steaming water surrounded by forested cliffs and autumn colours was one of the most tranquil moments of the entire trip.

Refreshed, we continued to the Iya Kazurabashi vine bridge, one of the last surviving vine bridges in the valley. Originally woven from mountain vines by the Heike refugees centuries ago, it gently sways as you cross—just enough to keep things exciting.

For lunch, we stopped at a tiny local restaurant that felt more like stepping into an elderly lady’s living room. She served us a delicious homemade meal: soba noodles, crispy tempura, pickles, rice, and lots of warm hospitality.

Our final stop was the Nagoro “Scarecrow Village”, a remote hamlet filled with life-sized dolls placed in front of houses, bus stops, and fields. Some cheerful, some eerie, some suspiciously lifelike—it’s charming, strange, and unforgettable all at once.

After this full day of mountain roads, history, and unexpected characters (both human and non-human), we returned the car and headed back to our hotel in Okayama, tired but happy to have explored one of Japan’s most hidden corners.Read more