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  • Lars Grünig

Japan Autumn Photography

A 15-day adventure by Lars Read more
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    🇯🇵 Kanazawa, Japan

    Day 8: Into the Hidden Iya Valley

    November 22 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 12 °C

    Today was less about photography and more about discovering one of Japan’s most remote and overlooked regions: the Iya Valley, deep in the mountains of Tokushima on Shikoku. Often called one of Japan’s “three hidden valleys,” Iya is famous for its dramatic gorges, vine bridges, remote villages, and roads so narrow they occasionally make you question your life decisions. Historically, this valley served as a refuge for defeated samurai of the Heike clan in the 12th century, which explains why it still feels untouched and far away from modern Japan.

    We rented a car and wound our way into the valley, navigating hairpin bends and cliffside roads—equal parts adventure and mild adrenaline rush. Our first stop was the famous Peeing Boy Statue, perched boldly on a rocky ledge high above the gorge, symbolising courage… or questionable life choices. Either way, the view was spectacular.

    Next we visited Hotel Iyaonsen, known for its cable-car-access onsen located deep at the bottom of the valley. After days of walking, hiking, and chasing sunsets, the hot spring felt like absolute heaven. Sitting in steaming water surrounded by forested cliffs and autumn colours was one of the most tranquil moments of the entire trip.

    Refreshed, we continued to the Iya Kazurabashi vine bridge, one of the last surviving vine bridges in the valley. Originally woven from mountain vines by the Heike refugees centuries ago, it gently sways as you cross—just enough to keep things exciting.

    For lunch, we stopped at a tiny local restaurant that felt more like stepping into an elderly lady’s living room. She served us a delicious homemade meal: soba noodles, crispy tempura, pickles, rice, and lots of warm hospitality.

    Our final stop was the Nagoro “Scarecrow Village”, a remote hamlet filled with life-sized dolls placed in front of houses, bus stops, and fields. Some cheerful, some eerie, some suspiciously lifelike—it’s charming, strange, and unforgettable all at once.

    After this full day of mountain roads, history, and unexpected characters (both human and non-human), we returned the car and headed back to our hotel in Okayama, tired but happy to have explored one of Japan’s most hidden corners.
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  • Day 7 - Part 2: Miyajima in Autumn

    November 21 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    Even though I’ve been to Miyajima several times, arriving there again—this time with the autumn leaves glowing in full colour—felt just as magical as the first visit. The island is famous for the Itsukushima Shrine and its legendary floating torii gate, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of Japan’s most iconic views. Naturally, this also means thousands of visitors pour onto the island every day.

    To escape the crowds, we wandered away from the main shrine area and explored some of the quieter paths. Miyajima has so much more to offer than the famous view: small stone temples tucked between trees, old wooden houses, peaceful side trails, and of course the island’s friendly (and occasionally demanding) deer population. These hidden corners allowed us to capture the island’s charm without the constant stream of people in the frame.

    As the afternoon turned toward evening, we made our way to the beach for the highlight of the day—the floating torii gate at sunset. Since it was low tide, the gate stood on exposed sand instead of water, giving us a rare chance to photograph its reflection in shallow pools left behind by the receding waves. The colours in the sky slowly shifted from gold to deep orange as the gate glowed softly in the fading light. It was one of those moments that remind you why photography is such a rewarding way to travel.

    When darkness fell, we boarded the ferry back to the mainland, returned to Hiroshima, and from there continued our journey back to Okayama, tired but completely satisfied after another unforgettable day in Japan.
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  • Day 7 - Part 1: Hiroshima Morning

    November 21 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 8 °C

    Our day began early once again as we made our way from Okayama to Hiroshima, a city that carries one of the most profound stories in modern history. For Michael, this was his first visit, so he headed straight to the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum. The museum is powerful, detailed, and deeply emotional—documenting the events of 6 August 1945, the experiences of survivors, and the city’s rebuilding as a global symbol of peace.

    Since I had visited the museum a few times before, I walked slowly through the Peace Memorial Park, which surrounds the museum and the Atomic Bomb Dome. The park was designed by architect Kenzo Tange as a space of reflection, and even on busy days it feels calm: wide lawns, quiet paths, memorials dedicated to students, families, and victims, and the gentle flow of the river beside the Dome. No matter how many times you come, the atmosphere remains moving.

    By late morning, we made our way to the pier and boarded the speed boat to Miyajima—a beautiful journey across the bay and the perfect transition to the next part of our day.
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  • Day 6 - Part 2: Sunset at Washuzan

    November 20 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 15 °C

    In the afternoon we travelled to one of the most underrated spots in the region: Washuzan, a hill overlooking the Seto Inland Sea. From up there, you get sweeping 360° views and endless photo opportunities of the Seto Ōhashi Bridge stretching elegantly across the water.

    We arrived for sunset—and what a show it was. The sky shifted from gold to deep orange and finally to soft pinks, with the bridge glowing beautifully in the fading light. We stood there for a long time, just watching the colours change and feeling very lucky to witness such a spectacular scene.

    A perfect end to the day and a place that deserves far more attention than it gets.
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  • Day 6 – Part 1: Quiet Dawn in Kurashiki

    November 20 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 6 °C

    We started the day early and arrived in Kurashiki around 06:30, just in time for sunrise. The historic Bikan district was completely empty—no tourists, no shops open, just us and the soft morning light. The canal was perfectly still, giving us beautiful reflections of the willow trees and old storehouses all to ourselves.

    We wandered through the silent streets, stopping at several temples and enjoying the rare feeling of having an entire town waking up slowly around us. Before leaving, we visited the Former Ohara Residence, a beautifully preserved traditional house with gardens that offered a glimpse into Kurashiki’s cultural past.

    After a peaceful and very photogenic morning, we headed back to Okayama for some rest.
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  • Day 5 - part 2: Okayama Sunset Magic

    November 19 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 12 °C

    Once we arrived in Okayama, we dropped our bags and went straight to Okayama Castle and Kōraku-en Garden for sunset. The timing couldn’t have been better—golden light, calm ponds, and perfect reflections everywhere. Since reflections are basically our photographic love language, we turned into two excited children, running from angle to angle and photographing every ripple.

    Just when we thought it couldn’t get better, darkness fell—and suddenly the entire garden lit up in vibrant colours. Bridges, trees, water, everything glowing beautifully. We stayed far longer than planned, soaking in the atmosphere and capturing the illuminated scenes until our memory cards begged for mercy.

    A perfect welcome to Okayama.
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  • Day 5 Part 1: Fuji Farewell & Travel Day

    November 19 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 0 °C

    We started our last morning in Kawaguchiko early, climbing once more to the Chureito Pagoda to watch the sunrise over Mount Fuji. The colours were soft, the air chilly, and Fuji stood perfectly clear—one more moment to store in memory before moving on.

    Back in town, we walked to Honcho Street, the classic “Fuji through the main street” view, where the mountain rises dramatically above the shops and power lines. A quick final stop at the shores of Lake Kawaguchiko gave us one last look—and one last photo—of the mountain that had been our companion for the past days.

    Then it was time to travel. We took the bus to Mishima, boarded the Shinkansen, and watched Japan blur past the windows on our way to Okayama, ready for the next chapter of our journey.
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  • Day 4: Fuji Views & Waterfalls

    November 18 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 13 °C

    We started the day early at the Chureito Pagoda, watching the sunrise colour Mount Fuji in soft pastels—a peaceful moment shared with a surprisingly large number of equally motivated early risers.

    Afterwards, we drove to Lake Motosu and hiked up to the Nakanokura Pass viewpoint, famous for the iconic “1000 yen bill” Fuji view. From there we continued to Lake Tanuki, another calm spot with perfect reflections on good days.

    Next on the list were the Shiraito Falls, where long curtains of spring water cascade down a lush cliffside. It’s one of Fuji’s most beautiful natural sights and a refreshing break from all the driving.

    We carried on via Gotemba to Lake Yamanaka, completing our loop around the mountain with more classic Fuji scenery. By evening we were back in Fujiyoshida, enjoying a traditional Japanese dinner before returning to our apartment for a well-earned rest.
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  • Day 3: Mt Fuji & Five Lakes Adventure

    November 17 in Japan ⋅ ☀️ 16 °C

    Today was all about Mount Fuji. We left Ikebukuro by highway bus and arrived in Kawaguchiko, where we picked up a rental car and immediately began our mission: circle as many of the Fuji Five Lakes as possible and stop every 300 meters for photos.

    The views were unreal—Fuji perfectly visible, framed by glowing red momiji everywhere. We visited Saiko Iyashi-no-Sato Nemba, a small traditional village with thatched houses and beautiful mountain backdrops, and later relaxed at Tatego-Hama Beach with more picture-perfect views of the mountain across the water.

    In the late afternoon we checked into our guesthouse near the famous Chureito Pagoda. For sunset we powered up the endless stairs, joined the crowd of hundreds squeezed together like sardines with tripods, and somehow still managed to get the shot.

    The evening was far quieter: back at the guesthouse, sitting on tatami mats, sipping a cold beer, and letting the day (and Fuji) sink in. A perfect end to a perfect Fuji day.
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  • Day 2 – Part 3: Neon Night Shinjuku

    November 16 in Japan ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    Our evening unfolded in Shinjuku, where the city seems to switch from “busy” to “full sensory overload” the moment the sun sets. We wandered through Omoide Yokocho, its narrow alleys glowing with lanterns and packed with tiny food stalls. The smell of grilled yakitori mixed with the chatter of locals created that unmistakable Shinjuku atmosphere.

    From there we headed into Golden Gai, a maze of tiny bars stacked like mismatched Lego pieces. Each doorway revealed a different world—jazz, whisky, retro posters, or simply a cat staring out at passers-by. It’s chaotic, charming, and wonderfully strange.

    Our final stop was Kabukicho, where neon signs, giant screens, and crowds turn every corner into a moving, glowing scene. We passed through the busy train station on our way back, swept up in the late-night rush of commuters, tourists, and the never-ending rhythm of the city.

    A perfect end to a long, vivid, very Tokyo day.
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  • Day 2 – Part 2: Gardens & City Buzz

    November 16 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 17 °C

    After regaining energy, we headed to Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden for a peaceful walk among ponds, lawns, and the first hints of autumn. The contrast between quiet nature and Shinjuku’s skyscrapers peeking through the trees never gets old.

    Lunch came from the food basement of a department store—an overwhelming paradise of bentos, grilled dishes, and snacks that tasted even better than they looked.

    Refuelled, we moved on to Shibuya Scramble Crossing, joining the organised chaos of thousands of people weaving across the intersection. From there, we continued to Yoyogi Park, lively and relaxed at the same time, before ending at the tranquil Meiji Jingu Shrine, where forest paths and wooden torii gates offered a peaceful escape from the city noise.
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  • Day 2 – Part 1: Cats, Trains & Temples

    November 16 in Japan ⋅ ⛅ 10 °C

    We started the morning at Kishimojin Temple, a quiet neighbourhood shrine guarded by a surprisingly large population of cats. They lounged on steps, under trees, and next to ema boards—clearly the real rulers of the place. The temple had a wonderfully calm, local feel and made for a gentle start into the day.

    From there we continued to Tetsugakudo Park in Nakano, a philosophy-themed park dotted with symbolic monuments. Nearby, we caught the famous yellow Chūō Line train passing through a residential street—simple, everyday Tokyo, and somehow completely captivating.

    A much-needed coffee break at Nakano Sun Mall wrapped up our morning, giving us a moment to recharge in its retro, slightly nostalgic atmosphere.
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  • Day 1 - Neon Dreams in Ikebukuro

    November 15 in Japan ⋅ 🌙 13 °C

    After months of anticipation, today was finally the day: the official start of our Japan adventures. The two of us—armed with cameras, enthusiasm, and a slightly unhealthy obsession with film simulations—boarded our flight from Zürich to Tokyo.

    Thanks to the wonders of business class (and seats that recline far more gracefully than we do), the long haul felt surprisingly gentle. After a few hours of horizontal rest, a glass of something bubbly, and a breakfast we pretended was “light,” we were ready to hit Japan running—or at least walking at a jet-lag-friendly pace.

    Ikebukuro: Our First Playground

    Once landed, we made our way to Ikebukuro, our home base for the start of this trip. Ikebukuro is one of Tokyo’s major hubs—slightly chaotic, wonderfully overstimulating, and home to Sunshine City, a massive complex of shops, entertainment, and an observatory with some seriously underrated views.

    We checked into the hotel, splashed some water onto our faces, pretended we weren’t tired, and set out with two clear missions for the evening:

    1. Sunset & Night Views from Sunshine City Observatory

    Sunshine 60 Observatory sits high above the city. From here, Tokyo stretches endlessly—towers, clusters of neon, trains weaving like glowing snakes.

    Sunset painted the sky soft orange, and as blue hour rolled in, the whole city shimmered. We wandered from window to window, hunting reflections, patterns, and long-exposure opportunities. Michael and I both attempted that classic “hold the camera to the glass without smearing it” maneuver with varying success.

    2. Shiinamachi Station – A Tiny Slice of Old Tokyo

    Afterwards, we hopped over to Shiinamachi Station, a small neighbourhood stop just two minutes from Ikebukuro. Unlike its flashy neighbour, Shiinamachi is calm, nostalgic, and filled with Showa-era charm.

    Narrow streets, retro shop signs, quiet alleyways—everything a photographer dreams of when looking for authentic, everyday Tokyo. The neon here is softer, the atmosphere slower, and the compositions more intimate. A lovely contrast after the futuristic height of Sunshine City.
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    Trip start
    November 15, 2025