Day 13: Exploring Wild Nikkō

Our day trip to Nikkō brought us into one of Japan’s most dramatic natural landscapes—a place where mountains, lakes, waterfalls, and history come together in a setting that feels worlds away from Tokyo. Nikkō has been a sacred site for over a thousand years, home to temples and shrines tucked deep into forests and valleys, and surrounded by a national park full of wildlife… theoretically including the famous Nikkō monkeys.

We began by exploring the region’s lakes, each with its own character. Lake Chūzenji, formed by a volcanic eruption of Mount Nantai, sits beautifully at the foot of the mountain and offers wide, open views. Ryūzu Falls and Yudaki Falls showed us the region’s wilder side—fast water rushing through forest and rock, framed by early winter colours and crisp mountain air.

From there we continued to Nikkō’s waterfalls circuit, checking off some of the area’s highlights, each one more impressive than the last. Despite being one of the most visited national parks in Japan, it’s easy to find calm corners where the only sounds are wind and water.

We also visited the small but charming Cat Temple, known locally for its feline statues and symbols. It was one of those quirky Japanese places that you don’t expect, but instantly love.

As for the famous monkeys of Nikkō—well, they apparently had the day off. Not a single one in sight. We waited, we listened, we looked into the trees… nothing. The only monkeys we saw were on the tourist posters. Still, the landscapes more than made up for it, and perhaps it’s better not to have our snacks stolen anyway.

By the end of the day, we left Nikkō with tired legs, empty memory cards, and the feeling that we’d experienced a very different, wilder Japan—one full of lakes, waterfalls, shrines, and mystery… just not monkeys.Read more