A 15-day adventure by Erik Read more
  • 13footprints
  • 1countries
  • 15days
  • 104photos
  • 2videos
  • 66kilometers
  • Day 1

    A Strange Old Day

    May 16, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 29 °C

    Yep, a strange old day indeed. Rin very kindly picked us up just before 0700 to take us to the bus station and we’d got about half way there before we remembered that we hadn’t taken the rubbish out. I’d emptied the bins ready to go but for some reason we both forgot it as we left the condo, so I gave Rin my key cards and she did it for us on the way back.
    We had a nice easy bus ride to Suvarnabhumi airport and seeing as we weren’t flying from there we caught the free transfer bus to Don Mueang airport. Not sure if we were really allowed to as it’s for people transferring but I showed the chap behind the desk the confirmation on my phone and he waved us on the bus. In fact it all went so smoothly and quickly that we arrived at Don Mueang too early to check in and had to go and have a spot of early lunch. The airport did seem to have been invaded by hoards of Chinese though who seemed to be all queuing for VAT refunds or their charter flights and having their usual shouted conversations with the person standing next to them.
    Anyway, after lunch we checked in with only one person in the queue in front of us and then went through immigration without having to queue at all, totally unheard of! There was virtually no queue for the security check either but here things went slightly astray and my bag got a good rummaging resulting in the loss of a brand new deodorant (150ml) and a brand new tube of toothpaste (110ml) and I’m fairly sure she was looking for other stuff as well but couldn’t find any. Well I knew the deodorant was a bit of a dodgy thing but I’ve always got away with it before and I genuinely didn’t realise the toothpaste was over, oh well.
    After all that I thought I’d try and get us in to one of the posh lounges at the airport using an old Dragonpass card I’d found whilst having a tidy up a few weeks ago and it nearly worked but the account has been frozen, looks like I’ll have to contact them and either get it unfrozen some how or just cancel it. So it was off to Starbucks instead for our hot beverage and relaxation, giving Tanya the chance to go and have a look round duty free while I relaxed, at least as much as any man can when their wife is off looking around duty free. In all fairness Tanya was really good, she had done some homework and knew how much things cost normally so was able to compare stuff to see if it was a good buy. Now I always thought duty free was supposed to be a bit cheaper, not always lots but certainly a bit. Not any duty free outfit run by King Power it would seem, normal stuff no cheaper than in the mall and special offers that aren’t really - you know the type of thing, it looks good until you notice that the size of the bottle is smaller than the regular one so that super twin pack actually ends up costing more than a regular one and it’s like that in all duty frees in Thailand. Doesn’t seem to stop the Chinese though, nearly every single one of them had at least one bulging bag of duty free and some had two or three and not just the regular things like perfume and make-up, but dried durian and mango, even chocolates, anyone would think they were setting up their own shops in China. Or perhaps there is a thriving black market in Thai duty free goods, nothing would surprise me!
    Once we’d finished our refreshing Starbucks beverage we strolled down to the departure lounge, well I say lounge but it’s five downstairs gates used by budget airlines flying to destinations that aren’t too far away. You know the sort of thing, one big room with seats, a few food concessions and five gates in front of doors that lead to the buses that will take you to your planes. We staked our claim to two end seats in a row of four nice and close to the desk for our gate and settled down to enjoy the entertainment. Well it didn’t take long to start. A group of four or five Chinese women (yes them again) came along with their hand luggage and obligatory multitude of duty free bags and sort of surrounded us while they shouted at each other, waved take away food around and generally tried to intimidate us into moving. Oh dear, think they picked on the wrong people there then, I decided to choose just that moment to change my socks (I had new socks on and one was annoying me) and I’m sure I saw Tanya stretch and stick her feet out. Needless to say they got the message and settled down a few seats away.
    But the thing that made me chuckle the most was the group behaviour of a load of Chinese tourists who were waiting for a delayed flight back to somewhere in China, I forget the destination but that’s not really important. What made me notice them was that they were all standing gathered around the desk waiting for their flight even though it hadn’t been called. Then as time ticked on the next flight due from that gate came on line so the gate number for the Chinese flight was changed and as soon as they noticed they all started racing over to that gate to get to the front of the queue for the flight that hadn’t been called, then about five minutes later the gate number changed again and they were all at it again, shouting and hollering at each other like it was the most important thing in the world. It was just a pity that the middle change hadn’t been to one of the upstairs gates, just imagine the fun we could have had watching them all rush off to that one only to come dashing back five minutes later. Well, except the ones who had massive laundry bags as hand luggage packed so full they could hardly lift them, they might have needed some oxygen before attempting the return trip. 😜
    In due course we boarded our flight and I spent the majority of an uneventful flight filling in all of the forms required to get a visa and get through immigration and customs but it proved to be time well spent as we breezed through the whole lot. Then it was time for Tanya to get a SIM card and book us a grab car to take us to the hotel. Sounds straight forward doesn’t it but we’d only been waiting a few minutes when a local taxi driver informed us that grab weren’t allowed into the airport to pick up so if we still wanted our grab car we’d have to meet him on the main road. Fortunately this was only a short distance away and after a while we managed to locate each other and off we went.
    The airport at Phnom Penh is on the outskirts of the city so we had a good opportunity to see some of it on the way to our hotel which is fairly central. Traffic is as chaotic as anywhere else in Asia and it seems like there are huge construction projects everywhere, almost like Phnom Penh is trying to catch up with its neighbours but there are also big wide boulevards, probably left over from the colonial days and open spaces where we saw people playing volleyball and badminton.
    So finally we got to our hotel and after I dropped my man bag (containing all my tech) and nearly got it run over by the car (fortunately there was only a bent spectacle arm which was easily fixed) we checked in. The hotel is a basic three star but it is clean and it is certainly very central with views out on to the central market and the area will certainly need some more exploring but as it was getting late we just sorted a few things out and went out to find some food, assisted by some advice from a tuktuk driver who was waiting outside.We didn’t have to walk too far before we found a very small local noodle restaurant and although they didn’t speak any English we managed to order by pointing at the pictures and the food was excellent and good value for money, we would certainly go there again.
    On the way back we bumped into the same tuktuk driver and after a chat about places to go and things to see we’ve booked him for a tour round the city tomorrow, much cheaper than the bus trip we had been looking at and this way the money goes straight to the local economy rather than some company. I’ll let you know how we get on tomorrow, or possibly the day after if the planned trip to Hard Rock Cafe results in lots of drinks and a late one.
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  • Day 2

    Culture Time

    May 17, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    This morning we were up bright and early, well I was, Tanya decided that making the coffee had earned her as much of a lay in as she could manage. But we still made it out of the hotel before 0830 to meet our tuktuk driver, Goom (at least that’s how it may be spelled, sort of rhymes with room) and it was time to set off on today’s adventure. Today’s tour was very much a cultural affair consisting of visits to The Royal Palace, The Silver Pagoda (which is in the palace grounds), The National Museum and Wat Phnom with lots of photos of street scenes along the way.
    The Royal Palace was by far the largest place we visited and contained some very impressive buildings and even had a model of Angkor Wat in it but for all that it wasn’t as impressive as the palace in Bangkok, no gold leaf or shiny reflective tiles anywhere. It did however score highly for the small number of tourists there that early, making it much easier to get around and see and meaning that we didn’t have to listen to the deafening shouts of Chinese tourists everywhere, although they were starting to arrive by the coach load as we were leaving so I guess we must have just timed it right.
    The National Museum was next door and just a short drive away so was our next port of call. It is a large Khmer style wooden building painted mainly red with a bit of black, inside the displays were all very similar to those that we saw in the museum at Siem Reap. It was interesting to see a number of exhibits boxed up either ready to get out on display or go off to another museum somewhere.
    Then it was back in the tuktuk and off to Wat Phnom, which is a smallish Temple (at least by Thai standards) on top of a small hill set in a small park area. All very nice, but didn’t take too long to explore.
    By now Tanya was beginning to flag a little so we went for a drive along the water front to find a suitable place for her to refresh with a coffee, Sherwood Bear was not very impressed with this as the place looked a bit like a bar and he was expecting a beer - I think you can tell from the look on his face when he was sat next to a coffee and then a glass of water! Somehow as Tanya finished her coffee it suddenly became time for lunch, so we asked our driver to recommend somewhere good for Cambodian food, it didn’t have to be a tourist place just so long as the food was good. He recommended a place called Romdeng, which is part of a small group of restaurants that take under privileged youngsters and train them up to work in or run their own restaurants. Have to say the food was excellent, the service was really good and the staff were all very friendly and based on this place I’d be more than happy to visit some of the other venues. Best of all Sherwood Bear finally got his beer.
    So full of food we returned to our hotel for a short rest before we venture back out again to track down a coffee and a bit of retail therapy before we go off to party at the Hard Rock Cafe this evening.
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  • Day 2

    Culture Time, extra photos 4

    May 17, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    Street scene and victuals. Notice how sad Sherwood Bear looks when he is sat in front of the glass of water and how much happier he looks next to the beer.

  • Day 3

    Hard Rocking

    May 18, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    I thought it was probably best to leave this entry until this morning, not quite sure how it might have turned out if I’d done it when we got back from Hard Rock, might have made amusing reading, but then again.....
    So after resting up for a bit then going for coffee and a bit of shopping (Tanya got another bag) we dodged the rain and caught a tuktuk to the Hard Rock Cafe, arriving about 1930. Surprisingly Tanya didn’t make a bee line for the shop and instead we went straight to the restaurant where we grabbed a seat near the front of the stage and settled in to eat and wait for the band.
    Well we ordered burgers and beer (by the jug) and had a chat to the duty manager, who also used to work at the Siem Reap restaurant. Then as the band arrived they recognised Tanya and all came over to say hello, you could almost feel all the other customers and staff thinking how do they know them? Soon enough it was time for a second jug of beer and we were told we were getting it at happy hour prices, in fact we had happy hour for all of our visit, which might account for the fact that jugs of beer kept magically appearing every time I popped off to the toilet.
    Anyway the band were great, they kept dedicating songs to Tanya and her husband, or that bloke with her or him over there (I exaggerated but only a bit, I’m used to it by now though) We even enjoyed their practice session for tonight’s Latin night, which we will be giving a miss and some time shortly after midnight (closing time) and having shared five jugs of beer we left. Well I say having shared but I did notice that my glass seemed to be getting filled up by the staff and Tanya on a much more regular basis than hers, which is probably why I was just as tipsy as her. We managed to get a tuktuk back to the hotel but ended up having to give the driver directions as he didnt know where the hotel was, fortunately we are close to the Central Market which is a bit of a landmark.
    Not much in the way of photos or videos from last night I’m afraid as Tanya went for the live stream on Facebook option and we haven’t found a way to save them in such a way that I can add them to the blog. Will try to do better after tomorrow’s visit - well you didn’t think I’d get away with just one visit did you!
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  • Day 3

    Silk Island

    May 18, 2018 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 31 °C

    This morning we crawled out of bed a bit later than usual (nothing to do with last nights beer of course) and having had a coffee we were ready for our 10.00 start to go off to Mekong Island or Silk Island as it also appears to be known. A bit of a drive out of town to catch a local ferry across The Mekong River, how do I know it was a local ferry, well we were the only westerners there and I think the photos make it fairly clear. Interesting to see that there are still some stilt houses along the river and that new ones are still being built. Then once we were across it was off to a locally run silk farm. I get the impression that our driver is very much into local businesses and projects run by local people for the benefit of local people, which suits us down to the ground and means we get to see things the average tourist doesn’t.
    The silk farm was really interesting, did you know for example that you can get a thread of between 700 - 1000 metres in length from a single cocoon and that the threads from 20 cocoons are picked up using egg plant leaves and then spun together to make a single strand of silk thread, or that the colour of the raw silk varies according to the temperature. I was also surprised at just how complicated some of the weaving processes were and that it is still not possible to duplicate the process accurately by machine. And as all good tours should it ended in a shop where Tanya bought a silk scarf, nice to know exactly where it was made and that it really was hand made.
    Time then for a spot of lunch sat next to The Mekong before visiting a local Wat and then heading back to the hotel. On the way back Tanya asked if I knew what she could really do with now, no not a coffee, a short nap or perhaps a toilet stop as I thought, what Tanya really wanted was a couple of cold beers. Fortunately there is a small convenience store next to the hotel so that was no problem.
    A bit later on fully rested and refreshed with a couple of cold tinnies each we ventured out to the night market, which was actually quite disappointing compared to many of the markets we have visited elsewhere. So we went for a bit of a stroll alongside the Mekong before finding a restaurant to have a bit of dinner. Needless to say Tanya ordered beer again and although I suggested a glass of beer each she opted for the jug of beer option again and we had a very pleasant meal and beers as the sun went down, no sunset to speak of as it was too cloudy but lovely as it started to get a bit cooler.
    Tomorrow is an early start, off to visit Oudong, the old capital of Cambodia, where we have been told that some walking up hills may be required (much to Tanya’s disgust) so its time for an early night.
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