Stone Hard Praise: Impress or Oppress?

Where to start my adventures in Spain — why not religion? Andalucía draws me in with its rich, religiously influenced history. Centuries of Muslim presence followed by Christian rule have left their mark on this corner of Spain — the architecture, the style, and the food are a fusion of Europe and North Africa. So let’s start with a dominating cathedral.

I later realised this was the only place I had to pay entry for today, as most museums seem to be free on Sunday afternoons. Was paying AUD $20 to visit a church a worthwhile expense? Probably not — but the building is darn impressive, inside and out. And really, can you visit an old town in Europe and not explore at least one cathedral?

As is often the case in southern Spain, this cathedral was built on the site of a former mosque. Sadly, unlike some places in the region that retain a blend of Arab and Christian architecture, nothing seems to have survived from the earlier style. But dang, they love their pillars here — or maybe I’m just attracted to big hard shafts.

I was in awe of the massive stone-carved columns soaring up to hold the many semi-domes what feels like an eternity above — talk about reaching for the heavens! How can all that weight have stayed up for centuries, while my 20-year-old building back home is already struggling with holding up just some plaster?

Obligatory audio guide in hand, I pretended to learn while mostly just admiring the building. Midway through, my audio guide decided I’d had enough English and switched to Spanish. As a result, I didn’t take in many historical or religious facts — but let’s be honest, that’s not why you really visit a church like this. It’s about the awe of the architecture and the unapologetic display of wealth poured into these religious mansions of centuries past.

The bell tower that dominates the skyline, ornately carved dome roofs, organs bigger than a family home, intricately sculpted wooden ornaments and religious paraphernalia — it all screams money and power. They certainly don’t build them like this anymore.

A walkway high above connects the central praying bit (clearly all those years of religious education paid off — I can’t even remember what that part of a church is called). I don’t want to be up that high, but we must look like ants from up there. I guess that’s how I feel about religious institutions now — places that, while conceptually meant to make you feel included, often view you from above as tiny and indistinct, unable to see the uniqueness of the individual and instead encouraging uniformity.

In awe of the spectacle that is this building, I’m already churched out — cut to me still visiting many others later in the trip. Time to get back outside and explore the rest of this seaside city.Okumaya devam et