Europe 2025

June – July 2025
  • Travel with Carl
Summer is a better place to get try and reset my mood and vibes. Let's try and rest this mood to something more positive. Read more
  • Travel with Carl

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  • From Therapy Sessions to Travel Plans

    June 2 in Australia ⋅ ☁️ 14 °C

    ## Getting Ready: A Different Kind of Beginning

    Normally I don’t start writing until I’ve left home and made it to the airport. But this time I’m doing things a little differently. I wanted to start earlier and write about the lead-up: the part before the trip even begins. Honestly, the past few years have been pretty stressful, and getting ready has felt harder than usual. I still love travel, but lately it’s been tough to find the energy or motivation to get going.

    I’ve been living with anxiety, depression, and PTSD for a few years now, and I’ve decided to be more open about how that shows up in my life. That includes how it affects something I’ve always loved: travel.

    ## Loose Plans, Pinned Dreams

    Most of my previous trips have followed a pretty loose structure. I’d book the flights and accommodation, and everything else would just fall into place along the way. My version of planning usually meant saving pins on Google Maps over months or years and then checking what was nearby once I arrived somewhere.

    > **Tip**: Every time you come across a place that catches your eye, drop a pin on Google Maps. Over time, you’ll see clusters form. Once there are enough in one area, that’s your cue to start shaping an itinerary.

    ## Bringing Structure to the Chaos

    That system hasn’t changed much this time, but the level of planning around it definitely has. Instead of just turning up and seeing what sticks, I’ve taken a more structured approach to building out my first few days. The last time I planned this thoroughly was during COVID, when I never got to actually go. That trip existed only on paper, something to hold onto when I couldn’t leave the house. This time, it’s real.

    While Google Maps still holds my inspiration pins, I’ve used ChatGPT a lot more to help shape my day-to-day plans. It can’t read my map pins (unfortunately), so I’ve had to copy in names of places manually and then ask for help building efficient daily itineraries. Once I had the itineraries sorted, I created calendar events for each one, with a little help from ChatGPT again to speed things up.

    ## Why the Overthinking?

    So why all this structure now? It comes back to anxiety and guilt. I feel guilty about going away while I’m still unwell, even though my support team keeps reminding me that this is exactly the kind of thing I need to do. My life isn’t going to restart by staying in bed. I need to reconnect with the things I care about, and travel has always been one of them.

    Anxiety plays its part too. I worry I’ll waste the trip by doing nothing. Or that I’ll overdo it and burn out. Both of those happened on my last attempts to travel: either too little or too much. Neither left me feeling good.

    ## Therapy in an Itinerary

    So this time I’m trying something I’ve learned in therapy: activity planning. Instead of the usual "see what happens" method, I’m sketching out my days ahead of time. The idea is to achieve two things:

    - Give myself a reason to get up, leave the hotel, and gently reconnect with my love of travel. Be around people. See new places. Push myself just enough.
    - Avoid burnout. By planning my days, I can see the rhythm before I’m in it. I can check if I’ve packed in too much, and make sure I’ve got time for meals, rest, and breaks between sights.

    This way of planning has helped me feel like the trip is something I can justify to myself. I’ve never had to do that before. It’s also been emotionally exhausting. In my rehab work, I tend to plan too much and then feel overwhelmed when I can’t follow through. So I’m trying to take what I’ve learned there and apply it here too.

    ## Beating the Scorecard Mentality

    First, I’m learning not to treat the plan like a scorecard. Missing something doesn’t mean failure. Second, I’m reminding myself that it’s okay to move things around. If I need a nap, take it. If something needs to shift, shift it. That’ll be harder on the road, but if I don’t give myself that kindness, burnout’s almost guaranteed.

    My hope is that by approaching travel in this more therapeutic way, I’ll ease myself back into something that used to be such a big part of who I am. Writing this now, curled up on the couch with my dogs, feels a lot easier than actually putting it all into practice. But it’s a start.

    ## Almost Airborne

    So that’s the background to this trip. Partly to justify it to myself, and partly for anyone watching who might be thinking, “I thought he wasn’t well.” Anyway, time to get the show on the road—or in my case, in the air ✈️.
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  • First Class Starts 🥂✈️

    June 6 in Australia ⋅ 🌬 11 °C

    Time is up for planning now — it’s time to get going. In a rare move for me, I packed my bag the day before, which meant a quiet and relaxed morning at home. No last-minute rush to get organised, just some cuddle time with my boys before Tim kindly drove me to the airport.

    Thanks to online check-in, bag drop was quick. In minutes, I was through security, my bag getting its usual rifling through at secondary screening. A quick scan of the passport and I was “out of Australia” and sipping on a well-earned glass of champagne in the Qantas First Class Lounge.

    I’m not sure I’ll keep my Platinum status this year, but for now I still have one of my most valued perks: first class lounge access. I love the view of the east-west runway, even though the strong winds today make it unusable. Down below, my Jetstar 787 waits to take me to Phuket. But first — lunch.

    While most lounges serve food buffet-style, here in the first lounge it’s à la carte dining. I skipped my usual club sandwich — it felt like a day to try something new. Something softer. I went with the mozzarella salad alongside the lamb shoulder from the winter menu. The lamb was cooked to perfection — warm, falling apart at the slightest touch of the fork. Absolutely delicious. The salad was fine on its own, but really just there to cut through the richness. It was this kind of comfort food I needed to start the trip.

    To celebrate the beginning of a new adventure, I washed it all down with a glass of champagne. I moved to a window-facing lounge seat to finish the glass and mentally prepare for the Jetstar experience ahead.

    Now, I’m starting to feel that flicker of excitement for the trip ahead. It took a while to get here — mentally and emotionally — but I’m ready. My mind still wants to do a hundred things at once though, so I decided to try a grounding activity to stay in the moment. These always feel a bit awkward to do in public, but I gave the 5-4-3-2-1 senses exercise a go.

    **Getting grounded before getting airborne**

    Five things I can see: Emirates A380, Jetstar 787-8, Fiji A330-300, Qantas A330-300 in Oneworld livery, and the Macedon Ranges in the background.

    Four things I can feel: My head resting on the leather headrest, the cool champagne glass in my fingertips, my freshly moisturised hands gripping the silicone phone case, and my forehead muscles squinting from the glare of the window.

    Three things I can hear: The low hum of the air conditioning, jet engines roaring into life, and a group of Gippslanders chatting behind me.

    Two things I can smell: The citrusy Lux hand wash still lingering on my hands, and that unmistakable scent of a first-class lounge — a mix of wood, leather, and money.

    One thing I can taste: The last trace of champagne still dancing on my tongue.

    By the end of the activity, I noticed I wasn’t mentally rushing quite as much. Still excited to get going, but not furiously thinking through the whole trip in advance.

    Stomach filled, mind slowed (at least a little), all that’s left is to check out the airport talent on Grindr and enjoy this moment of luxury — before heading down to slum it in Jetstar economy for the next eight hours.
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  • First to Jetstar - JQ17 to Phuket

    June 6 in Thailand ⋅ ☁️ 27 °C

    Travel blogging is usually about the destination, but if you know me — or have read any of my past blogs — the flight is just as important. After a lovely lunch and mindfulness activity in the Qantas First Lounge, it was time for a different kind of grounding activity: Jetstar economy on a packed flight. Back to what my budget really allows!

    Despite the automated announcements not matching the actual boarding process, we all got on board surprisingly fast. You wonder why people get frustrated when one person (albeit an automated voice) says one thing, and the human on the ground says another. I’m sure the rise of AI bots will eventually fix this — or make it worse.

    The 787-8 variant Jetstar uses was jam-packed today. After taking my seat (27J, if you're interested), the two empty seats beside me teased me with the possibility of a poor man's business class. But alas, among the last passengers to board were two Kiwi guys who took those seats. Free upgrade denied. It’s always the way — I get excited about having an empty row, only to have those dreams dashed just before the door closes. The curse of someone who likes to board early.

    That door *did* close nice and early though, with pushback just three minutes after boarding finished. It’s these kinds of useless facts I always take note of. Part of the overlap in the Venn diagram of my nerdiness and avgeekiness. The strong (and freezing) northerly wind that chilled me to the bone earlier meant that runway 34 was our way out today. We lined up with 2,903 metres of runway to go and, with the help of that hefty headwind, were airborne before even crossing the intersection runway. Yep — nerd facts again.

    With Melbourne now in the rear-view mirror, we turned left and headed roughly toward Darwin. I’d been tracking this flight route over the past few days, hoping it might take us over Lake Eyre. I’ve flown over it many times, but it’s always been dry. This year, though, it’s seen one of its biggest flood events in decades. I was hoping to catch a glimpse from above.

    We passed just to the right of it, so I didn’t get the view I’d hoped for. But from my side of the plane, I could see the channels feeding it — scattered across the scarred landscape, looking like something from another planet.

    Half-filled lakebeds, slowly fed by ripples of water trickling into them. Clear pools surrounded by moisture-soaked, dark red dirt, which gave way to lighter red soil and patches of salt. From 36,000 feet, these lakes scattered between ridges looked like abstract art. Maybe my upcoming art classes will teach me how to capture that beauty on canvas. It’s amazing that in the middle of Australia — a place more known for being barren — are pockets of life and colour. You just have to be in the air to appreciate it.

    The last few days, this route has taken about eight hours. Today, we were looking at closer to nine. Apparently a volcano in Indonesia got a little too excited and plastered the sky with ash. Somewhere near Alice Springs, we made a hard left — what the captain called a wide detour around the eruption zone.

    I spent the first four hours binge-watching *Designated Survivor* on my iPad. Not amazing, but good enough to keep me entertained. My first prepaid snack was just a voucher. Still full from lunch, I grabbed a tea cake and some crisps. Solid snacking material, which I paced out between episodes.

    With music in my ears, I paused to blog as we crossed the coast over Derby. Halfway there, and only just leaving my island home. The crew had already locked the windows into dark mode for the past two hours — not ideal if you're trying to adjust to a new time zone, but probably helpful for the crew if they want everyone to sleep. I found it annoying since I like to look out the window, but I’ll admit the blue tinge made for a pretty photo.

    The second meal came just after we left the Australian coast. My teriyaki vegetable stir-fry was a huge improvement on the dry, burnt-to-the-box version I had coming back from Bali last year. Still not amazing, but decent enough for what was now a late dinner. I’m going to have to ditch my 6pm dinners once I hit Spain anyway — might as well let Jetstar help me ease into it.

    We flew over Bali and then crossed the equator — officially into summer! The glow from Singapore lit up the clouds below, welcoming us into the northern hemisphere. I’d finished my episodes by this point, so switched to *The Greatest Showman*.

    Watching musicals on planes is risky. The urge to sing and dance along is real. I love a good musical. Luckily for everyone else, Jetstar doesn’t provide enough room to even attempt a small boogie. I guess I’ll just have to wait for the stage show in London next year. Yep — already planning another trip, even as I begin this one.

    According to *The Greatest Showman*, “comfort is the enemy of progress,” as Hugh Jackman tries to convince a spunky Zac Efron to join his circus. At this point, I *am* a little uncomfortable, so I guess that means I’m progressing. Only an hour to go, and I’ll be making progress one flight at a time.

    Suddenly, lights on. Abrupt announcement. We’re descending. Time to land.

    Had a short chat with the guys next to me — they’d been up since 4am New Zealand time. What a trek. After almost nine hours in the air, we touched down in Phuket. A quick exit, reasonably fast immigration, and a ten-minute drive to my hotel for the night.

    First flight done. Loving this oversized bed. More soon.
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  • FOMO in Phuket 🤯

    June 7 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 27 °C

    Okay, so today was a planned rest day. While I’d pencilled in a walk along the beach and a visit to an elephant sanctuary later in the day, most of it was just meant to be about relaxing and chilling at the resort. Breaking up the journey, slowing me down. Waking up early, it was pissing down rain. It is monsoon season, so not surprising — but golly gosh it was wet.

    My mood this morning just couldn’t relax though. I was in go mode. Must do things! What? Anything — just do something so you don’t miss out, Carl. What if the rain ruins the day? But what was it going to ruin? I had nothing planned. I’m going to call this rain-induced FOMO. I got up, dressed, and headed out in the rain for a 7am breakfast.

    The Pullman do a good breakfast buffet, but even that I was rushing. Must eat — more — more!!! Now sickly full, the staff brought over a farewell chocolate platter. Lovely touch — I like special treatment — but oh my gosh I can’t fit anything else in. I rushed back to my room and pondered what I could do now it’s raining. Why do I need to do things now I’m here? Because it’s raining and I’ll miss out on things. My brain works in bloody strange ways.

    I decided to try and nap. Chucked on some mindfulness music and slept for about an hour. Well done. Still feeling very FOMO, so I went for a walk, in the rain, along the beach. The view of the beach from the hotel is scenic, and I imagined how much better it would be if it were sunny. I proceeded onto the beach, feeling the sand beneath my feet. It was a nice exfoliating experience.

    Sadly the beach is a little polluted with rubbish, but it doesn’t seem to stop the small crabs dashing between their holes in the sand. I’m still rushing. Why? Where am I rushing to? There is literally nothing I need, or even want to do today, but I have an overwhelming urgency to get it done as fast as possible anyway. But what is it? I went to the beach — the sand was soft, the water warm as a bathtub — but my mind was racing too fast to notice how lucky I am to be here, even in the rain.

    I got back to the hotel and contemplated a gym workout and steam room before I stopped myself. No. We’re not starting this game on day one. Bed. Rest. You can get up again for lunch at midday. I left the doors open, turned off the aircon, and lay in bed under the fan. The sound of the rain, wind, and water feature outside my room provided the perfect white noise background for a nap — albeit a short one.

    Waking up, I wondered where the patch of blue in the sky was today. My mum used to always say that there’s always a patch of blue somewhere. Sure enough, I looked out from the balcony and staring back at me was a patch of blue. The rain had even stopped.

    Exploring the resort for lunch, I’m shocked that the bar overlooking the ocean only serves Italian. No thanks. I go to the other restaurant that serves Thai, order a pad se eww and decide on mindful eating. Chew, taste, swallow, add more chilli — hello flavour! I write this post as I wait for my order and continue as I eat. Even my writing is fast, tapping the letters out on my phone as if my life depends on it. Slow the f**k down, Carl. I put the phone down and look out the window while I eat and chew. Rushing was keeping me from the moments around me — like the butterflies having somewhat what I hope is hanky panky time on the plants outside, and the massive lizard laying on the edge of the pond. For a moment I thought it was a crocodile!

    The morning wasn’t the start I wanted — probably lucky it was raining though. If it had been sunny and the FOMO kicked in, I probably would have walked a marathon and exhausted myself on day one. Feeling more regulated after this post and lunch. Now ready to actually do the one thing planned today — without rushing so much.
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  • Elephants: My Answer to a Low Mood 🐘

    June 7 in Thailand ⋅ 🌧 28 °C

    Elephants are the answer to low mood or an overactive mind. Looking into their eyes is like staring into a font of ancient wisdom. They seem to read inside you and look back with exactly the message you need. Or maybe it’s just the bucket of bananas and sugar cane I was holding in my other hand.

    “Stop staring into my eye and feed me, bitch.” I’m guessing it’s more the latter — but I did feel quite invigorated after visiting Elephant Care Phuket, just a 10-minute drive from the hotel.

    I’m normally pretty wary of visiting elephants. All those places that used to force them to perform in circuses or carry tourists around on their backs — it’s a big turn-off. I did some research beforehand and felt reasonably reassured (as much as Google can offer) that this place sits on the more ethical end of the spectrum.

    You can spend a whole day here doing a variety of things, but I just opted for the feeding session. Just to be clear: feeding wild elephants sweet treats is not a good thing to do. But these ladies — and one lone five-year-old gent — aren’t wild.

    Like rescue dogs at the pound, they’ve all been rescued (or rather, purchased) from circuses, riding camps, or the logging industry. Many still sway side to side in a dance-like rhythm — a habit from years of being beaten into submission to perform for crowds. It’s pretty heartbreaking.

    At least here, on 70 acres of land, they get to roam the forest each night and come down for snacks, mud baths, and a scrub-a-dub-dub in the pond from willing tourists each day. They’re still working animals, no doubt — but to this layperson, it feels like a much safer and kinder environment.

    After the feeding, I was handed a little fridge magnet to paint. Time for some art therapy to wrap up the session. Good for connecting with the moment, I guess — though I doubt my multicoloured elephant will be winning any awards.

    A quick Google review scored me a lucky-dip prize — a stuffed elephant I’ll now be lugging around for the rest of my trip. And with that, my day in Phuket wraps up. Just a shower to wash the mud off my legs, a quick bag repack, and then off to the airport for an evening flight to Doha. Hopefully the day’s chaotic start — and calming end with some elephant-inspired art therapy — sets me up better for the rest of this trip.
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  • Phuket to Doha on a Ghost of Virgin Past

    June 8 in Qatar ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    How do you symbolise a marriage — even a polyamorous one — between two airlines? Well, you could fly around in one of your new bride’s ex-assets that you picked up before tying the knot, I guess. That’s kind of what’s going on with this flight, and it’s something even this avgeek wasn’t expecting. Am I losing my avgeek game?

    Boarding my Qatar 777-300ER flight to Doha this evening, I find myself stepping onto an ex–Virgin Australia plane. I’d been expecting a Cathay Pacific 777, so the old Virgin seats are a pleasant surprise — and, honestly, a bit of an upgrade. We’ll come back to that later, but for now, let’s rewind a couple of hours and start at the beginning.

    I sip a complimentary beer in the humid air while waiting the 30 minutes between hotel checkout and my airport ride. The drive to the airport takes about 15 minutes. I laugh quietly to myself as we pass a shop called “Daily Tops.” Where do I sign up for that?

    In the terminal, the check-in line is huge. Luckily, my Velocity points scored me a business class ticket for this flight, letting me skip the queue. Sure, my Qantas status would’ve done the same—but it wouldn’t have got me into the pointy end. I don’t think of myself as a light traveller, but the couple in front of me have eight suitcases between them. I don’t even own that many clothes!

    The staff kindly link my two bookings, so my bag is tagged all the way to Spain. I’m given a lounge and fast-track voucher and head off to immigration. The lines are huge, and with no sign of where fast track starts, I double back and ask a staff member. Apparently, I needed to see the guy in a suit. Suit guy promptly escorts me through the crew lane. Immigration done—with an assistant—in no time.

    I arrive at the tiny, packed lounge and manage to snag the last seat. Honestly, the terminal looks less crowded. I grab a Coke and some corn chips, but spit them out after the first bite—stale and disgusting. This lounge is a fail. I head back to the terminal for some peace and a fresher snack: Pringles.

    Let’s skip ahead to boarding the 777. Entry is via door 2, straight into the old Virgin Australia bar. The interior hasn’t changed since its Virgin days. Win. I never got to fly Virgin’s 777s, so I’m excited to finally try the hard product. The seats are also way better than the Cathay 777 layout I was expecting. Double win!

    Settled into my seat, I’m excited and super comfortable. It’s a shame the old Virgin Australia went belly up — this was a solid product; they just never quite figured out how to make it profitable. Welcome champagne sipped, pillow fluffed, I’m already feeling a lot more at ease than I did on yesterday’s flight as I take off again, heading further west.

    Qatar offers à la carte dining in business class, although on this short 6.5-hour flight, everyone’s served at once at the start. I begin with the mezze plate, despite knowing this fructose-rich starter is going to piss off my innards. The hummus is great, but the pita bread expired shortly after arrival.

    Next up was beef, potatoes and veggies — obviously described much more fancily than that on the menu. It tasted alright, but nothing to write home about (says the guy literally writing home about it). I’d ordered the coconut something for dessert, but was given ice cream instead. I couldn’t be bothered asking for a change, so I ate it anyway. Why I always eat things my stomach doesn’t like on planes is one of life’s mysteries. I just can’t say no to trying it.

    I’ve only flown Qatar once before, and I remember the food being good, but not melt-in-your-mouth amazing. That memory holds true for this flight too. There also seemed to be a bit of tension among the crew tonight, which somehow managed to affect my palate.

    The crew make my bed while I slip into something more comfortable. I’m slightly judging their choice of large PJs, but it’s still nice to relax. Back at my seat, I remake the bed for a cleaner photo before snuggling in for a nap, soundtracked by the Aussie All Star audio mix on the IFE — in other words, I’m bopping along to Kylie. The bed is genuinely comfortable and perfect for a couple of hours’ rest.

    A bar on a plane is always a novelty, so I have to give it a go — even if I’m not really in the mood for a drink. The stools are taken by men silently sipping their drinks, so I grab a spot on the couch and sip on a can of Coca-Cola (served with ice and lemon, of course). Alex and Dan from the podcast *On Air with Alex and Dan* often talk about Qatar’s popcorn, so I try some too. Crunchy and weirdly comforting.

    With every inflight gimmick ticked off just in time for arrival into Doha, I’m more than ready for a proper sleep — on solid ground this time. I take the airport train and play a kind of hot-or-cold game to find the Sleep ‘n Fly South Node. Eventually I’m tucked inside my pod — like a hard-shell version of a first class suite, minus the frills — and with that, day two comes to a close with a surprisingly decent sleep.
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  • Resetting my Body Clock at 38,000 Feet

    June 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Waking up in my airport pod, I head over to the Qatar Business Lounge for a quick shower and snack before launching into the final flight — next stop: Málaga. Qatar unfortunately doesn’t let us lowly Emeralds into their First Class lounge, but the Business one is more than enough. I grab some freshly made mint tea at the bar and the tiniest portion of French toast.

    The morning sun is helping me slide into the right time zone. I can’t believe Doha and Spain are only one hour apart, yet this flight is seven hours long! Natural sunlight suppresses melatonin — the hormone that tells your body to sleep — so catching the sun helps reset my body clock. I’d planned this trip to avoid overnight flights where possible. The last one wasn’t technically overnight, but it was dark the whole time, which worked fine. Today’s flight is all about staying awake and keeping that melatonin at bay.

    Hunter-gatherer mode activated, I go looking for my favourite aircraft type — the Airbus A350 — which will be taking me to Spain. Sadly, this one doesn’t feature Qatar’s famous Qsuites. Instead, it has the same open-style seats as their A380s. No privacy, but it makes the cabin feel really light and airy (windows permitting). I slide into 3A and immediately open the blinds for some melatonin-busting sunshine.

    I’ve been talking a lot about sunshine, yeah? I haven’t suddenly decided to go all science-y on you — this is a common gripe in the avgeek community. As I write this mid-breakfast at 9:14am Málaga time, all the window blinds are closed. Well, almost all — I’m the rebel with a cause. I’ve compromised and left the light-filtering shade down, so the sun’s a little muted. Sadly, I can’t see Saudi Arabia below anymore.

    Bit of a rant, but seriously — it’s 9am, folks. Sleeping now will wreck your body clock. (Says the person with terrible sleep patterns.) Alright, sleep rant over before someone brings up my many naps. Back to breakfast: I had the fruit plate, some pastries, and an açaí bowl. I love açaí and thought, why not have it in the sky? It was okay — the food is always beautifully presented but seems to miss that spark.

    I watch Pitch Perfect 2 on the IFE while finishing breakfast and starting this blog post. The movie selection is a bit underwhelming, if I’m honest. The Wi-Fi’s also a little slow, but it does the job — not fast enough for streaming, unless you’re lucky enough to be on a Starlink-equipped plane. (This one isn’t.) Ironically, the slower Wi-Fi costs money, while Starlink is free! As we leave Saudi Arabia, the flight path curves around Jordan and into Egypt before turning more north toward the Mediterranean.

    Eventually, I give in to peer pressure and take a morning nap. To be fair, I take naps a lot anyway. I slip into the medium-sized PJs — a much better fit than last time — and get an hour of rest. Let’s just call it getting ready for Spain.

    The anytime dining service comes in handy, and I order my burger a little earlier than usual. I’m impressed — the burger and chips are solid, not soggy. Yum. Dessert is a cheesecake that’s practically begging for a glass of champagne, so I oblige. Dessert? Delicious. Easily the best part of the meal.

    Later, I have a quick boogie in my seat to A Night with Kylie — I do love a musical at 38,000 feet. Kylie stirs memories of past concerts and happy nights. She’s such an entertainer. Shame the seat doesn’t offer much privacy for a full-on dance routine.

    Excited to get on the ground in Málaga, I finish the flight with a Coke or two and a few episodes of The Golden Girls. I’m more than ready to swap airplane lighting for the golden glow of the Costa del Sol. My plans for a gentle afternoon of sightseeing to fight off the jet lag are calling.

    Hello, European summer 2025! ☀️🇪🇺
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  • Stone Hard Praise: Impress or Oppress?

    June 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Where to start my adventures in Spain — why not religion? Andalucía draws me in with its rich, religiously influenced history. Centuries of Muslim presence followed by Christian rule have left their mark on this corner of Spain — the architecture, the style, and the food are a fusion of Europe and North Africa. So let’s start with a dominating cathedral.

    I later realised this was the only place I had to pay entry for today, as most museums seem to be free on Sunday afternoons. Was paying AUD $20 to visit a church a worthwhile expense? Probably not — but the building is darn impressive, inside and out. And really, can you visit an old town in Europe and not explore at least one cathedral?

    As is often the case in southern Spain, this cathedral was built on the site of a former mosque. Sadly, unlike some places in the region that retain a blend of Arab and Christian architecture, nothing seems to have survived from the earlier style. But dang, they love their pillars here — or maybe I’m just attracted to big hard shafts.

    I was in awe of the massive stone-carved columns soaring up to hold the many semi-domes what feels like an eternity above — talk about reaching for the heavens! How can all that weight have stayed up for centuries, while my 20-year-old building back home is already struggling with holding up just some plaster?

    Obligatory audio guide in hand, I pretended to learn while mostly just admiring the building. Midway through, my audio guide decided I’d had enough English and switched to Spanish. As a result, I didn’t take in many historical or religious facts — but let’s be honest, that’s not why you really visit a church like this. It’s about the awe of the architecture and the unapologetic display of wealth poured into these religious mansions of centuries past.

    The bell tower that dominates the skyline, ornately carved dome roofs, organs bigger than a family home, intricately sculpted wooden ornaments and religious paraphernalia — it all screams money and power. They certainly don’t build them like this anymore.

    A walkway high above connects the central praying bit (clearly all those years of religious education paid off — I can’t even remember what that part of a church is called). I don’t want to be up that high, but we must look like ants from up there. I guess that’s how I feel about religious institutions now — places that, while conceptually meant to make you feel included, often view you from above as tiny and indistinct, unable to see the uniqueness of the individual and instead encouraging uniformity.

    In awe of the spectacle that is this building, I’m already churched out — cut to me still visiting many others later in the trip. Time to get back outside and explore the rest of this seaside city.
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  • Alcazár: Leg Day Meets Arabian Vibes

    June 8 in Spain ⋅ ☀️ 28 °C

    Every time I hear the word Alcazár, the Swedish pop song Crying at the Discotheque starts playing in my head. Of course, in Andalucía, Alcazár has a different meaning — basically Arab palace or castle. With the Christians covered off this morning in my cathedral visit, it was time to turn to the Moorish influence on the city.

    On the edge of the old town, the Alcazár climbs the hill overlooking the city — as do I, weaving through the defensive walls and up stone-lined paths throughout the palace. One of the striking differences between places and castles in the Muslim world and those medieval strongholds across Europe is the stylish door openings, or puertas if I’m trying my Spanish. These stone arches have a desert Aladdin vibe that really draws me in — hopefully that’s not culturally offensive.

    I need the inspiration, because the uphill climb through the palace takes some energy. Invaders would’ve needed to train on stairs and never miss leg day to raid this place. Throughout the palace, various courtyards with gardens and ponds overlook the outer walls and offer great views of the city below. The similarities between the haves looking down on the have-nots — whether from this Moorish castle or the Christian cathedral earlier — aren’t lost on me. I imagine rulers sipping mint tea, watching across their empire from up here.

    A great Alcazár feature are their orangeries. Alas, this one’s is in a bit of a sad state and looks quite basic compared to the ones in Granada, Seville, and Córdoba. Another tell is the pools and drainage channels throughout the entire complex. While this Alcazár has a more utilitarian feel than others in the region, it’s still an interesting visit.

    At the top of the open sections of the palace, I look up to see more ruins before another palace much higher up. Below are views across the sea and the city. I can see why they chose this spot to set up shop — location, location, location.

    What goes up must come down. As I wander back down, I get lost a few times. Invading this palace would take strong legs and maybe a Hansel and Gretel-style breadcrumb trail to find your way back out.

    So far today I’ve visited the big-ticket Christian and Moorish remnants. But it wasn’t just those two groups who left their mark here — the Romans had their turn too. Alas, all that’s left of the Romans (well, that I can see without doing any real research) is the Roman Theatre.

    At the foot of the palace, the theatre ruins now overlook a small square — occupied by a man entertaining kids and adults alike blowing bubbles. The ruins aren’t accessible, but they’re small and easy to view from the square. I imagine a string quartet performing here, or maybe a play by William Shakespeare. That’d be over a thousand years after the Romans left, but hey, sometimes you need a little imagination to bring a ruin to life.

    I contemplate taking the 20-minute walk uphill to the next Alcazár, Castillo de Gibralfaro. I figure I’m only here once, so I start the walk. Two minutes in, I give up. I may be here only once, but unlike the Moors of the past, I skip leg day and just can’t be bothered spending that kind of energy today. Instead, I wander the streets of Málaga’s old town and settle in for an afternoon beer under an umbrella, flicking through all the photos I’ve taken today.

    > Tip: The Alcazár is free to enter after 2pm on Sundays. No tickets, just wander in!
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  • Rushing to Resting: My Málaga Shift

    June 8 in Spain ⋅ 🌙 23 °C

    History were the first two stops in my exploration of Málaga. If I’m honest, I was moving at a million miles an hour to make sure I ticked everything off my afternoon list. I was still able to enjoy both the cathedral and the Alcazaba, but I’d done it quickly. So despite all my planning, I was back in that all-or-nothing mode — getting it done as opposed to actually doing it. It’s funny how I don’t even notice when I’ve slipped into that mindset, racing around like the Energiser Bunny. I wonder what I must look like to others when I’m in that mode.

    It wasn’t until I realised I was somehow hours ahead of schedule that it clicked what I was doing. I sat down on the ground near the Roman Theatre, watching a man filling the square with bubbles, and realised it was time to slow down. I stayed there for a while just watching people of all ages interact with the bubbles. I also bought a bottle of water and actually drank it. Eating and drinking are two of the first things I forget when I get into a doing-things mode. It becomes a problem if I let it run too long — I’m burning all this energy but not refuelling at all.

    I’d technically “done” everything I planned to do this evening, but because I’d rushed, I now had way more time than expected before dinner or bed were calling. I figured I’d get a head start on tomorrow’s to-do list, so I headed to the Picasso Museum. The queue was ridiculous, so instead I visited his childhood home. No queue there at all, and free entry — bonus. Other than the IKEA editions I’ve got hanging at home, I don’t really know much about Picasso. Impressionism, Cubism, and all those arty-farty words go over my head, but I do enjoy looking at his work — even if I couldn’t tell you what it’s supposed to be called.

    Early Picasso childhood complete, and rather than diving back into Google Maps for more things to tick off, I decided to just sit and watch the world go by in a nearby square. I found a bar called Carmen’s Bar, apparently a local gay bar. I sat down, strangely (for me), ordered a beer and a water, and took some time to scroll through today’s photos and videos — there are a lot! The bar was pretty empty. I later realised that Torremolinos Pride was happening this week, and a big beach party was wrapping up today. All the gays were obviously there.

    Beer slowly drunk, and lightweight me feeling a little tipsy after drinking on an empty stomach, I decided to wander back to the hotel and recharge before dinner. I’ve learned from previous trips to Spain that there’s no point trying to find food at 6pm — dinner here doesn’t really kick off until at least 8. Back at the hotel I pottered about online, posted a few more photos on Instagram, and debated skipping dinner entirely and heading straight to bed. But I resisted and headed back out in search of tapas.

    Tapas dreams were quickly dashed by the smell of pizza just a few streets into my walk. I ordered a diavola and demolished it in minutes. I was hungry and clearly needed it. By now, yawns were leaking from my mouth with increasing frequency. Like a mother’s contractions before childbirth, the shrinking gaps between yawns signalled it was definitely time for bed.
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