Barcelona Bling: Gaudí’s Grand Designs

On my last visit to Barcelona, I did a city walking tour that focused on the architectural works of Gaudí. Think buildings with extra stuff stuck to them, weird shapes, maybe even something from an alien planet—and then there’s the still unfinished Sagrada Família. It’s a unique style of architecture that won him awards and a decent list of rich families lining up to have him design their casa. Once you’ve seen his work, you kinda get his vibe, and it’s definitely something very distinct. I guess in the late 19th and early 20th centuries you really went all out to show the world you were wealthy—on the actual facade of your home. These days, I guess to be this pretentious you buy a social media platform?

Skipping forward a few years, on this visit I decided to check out the failed attempt at urbanisation—Park Güell. I take the metro to get there, arriving at Alfonso X station well ahead of time. It’s an uphill walk from here, but I decide to top up my energy levels with a bite to eat at a local café en route. I arrive at this cute little place, which has just the owner and two older customers who look like they have their regular seats. I order a hot chicken and salad roll and a cold can of Coke, and grab one of the many empty seats by the window.

An audible “Hummph 😤” comes from the elderly lady at the corner table across the aisle as I sit down. She stands, seemingly scolding me with her glare, carefully folds her newspaper, moves one table further away, then unfolds her paper again and resumes reading. Perhaps this is the chairperson of Barcelona’s current anti-tourism campaign. Look at me, making friends already.

I have no regrets about my café choice—the roll is delish and hits the hunger spot perfectly. Energy levels rising, I start the walk up the hill toward the park entrance for my timed ticket entry. I get slightly distracted watching a local carrying a large pole and wander off track—enough to go further downhill only to have to climb again. That’ll teach my wandering eyes.

After a decent stair climb, I arrive at the park and pay an arm and a leg for a frozen lemon slushy to refresh myself before heading in. I’ve decided against a guided tour and plan to explore only the more interesting areas—the spots with all the main Gaudí stuff. Visiting in the middle of a June day? Not advisable. It’s bloody hot, and the glare makes taking photos a challenge. If you’re going to look at wild architecture, you’ll want decent photos of it.

Let’s call the main area a plaza, with coloured mosaic benches lining the edge providing a place to sit and take in the view below. Like many plazas, the golden sand-like surface bakes in the hot sun, with a seaside vibe provided by both the actual palm trees, and the carvings of palm-like trees—or people—into the surrounding rock walls. Like, I get that this is art and not only takes one hell of a mind to think of, but even more skilled craftsmen to build—but I find it all just a tad pretentious.

I discover the plaza is held up by a series of Romanesque columns, creating a cavern-like space underneath. Maybe it’s the cool shade, but I prefer it down here. The roof, of course, is also curved and includes colourful mosaic elements. Down the elaborate staircase—complete with a giant mosaic lizard—lie the park’s gatehouses (that’s what I’m calling them). These look like something out of a Disney animated movie set in some faraway cartoon land. Over the top, yet also creatively impressive. One is now a gift shop. I refuse to queue for a gift shop, so I take my photos and wonder what the other building is and whether it needs exploring. Turns out it’s a primary school—definitely not for exploring.

Gaudí’d out, I head back to the hotel, discovering a bus to the metro that would’ve been much more useful for the uphill climb than my downhill return. I know Barcelona is Gaudí land, and I’m not saying I don’t like his work—I just find the grandness, the strange opulence, and the massive display of wealth (and maybe ego) of those who commissioned it a bit hard to get behind. Still, it’s left a lasting impression on Barcelona’s streetscapes, and eventually, the Sagrada Família will be finished—marking the end of a long era of Gaudí’s construction in this city.もっと詳しく