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Pivot East: Japan
  • Wolpertinger Wanderings
  • Wolpertinger Wanderings

Pivot East: Japan

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Sumiyoshi Taisha

    5. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 70 °F

    Sumiyoshi Taisha, the oldest Shinto shrine (211) founded by Empress Jingu. It's an example of Sumiyoshi-zukuri architectural style with straight gabled roofs, forked finials, and horizontal billets. It's considered one of three purely Japanese styles.

    Dedicated to the three sea gods.

    It happened to be a baby blessing day there, so many people with babies, and there was a wedding.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Shinsekai New World

    5. april, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 73 °F

    This neighborhood, "New World" was developed in 1912 modeled after Paris in the north, and Coney Island in the south. There was an amusement park, Luna Park, here until 1923. The centerpiece is the Tsutenkaku Tower, which you can go up in (we didn't), or slide down from in an enclosed slide (definitely not).

    Today there are shops restaurants, game booths ( shooting, archery, axe throwing) and general chaos.

    It's also the new home of that creepy Billiken figure. He originated in Indiana. Artist Florence Pretz said he came to her in a dream in 1908. He came to Shinsekai in 1912. He's associated with fortune and good luck, just rub his feet.

    This place must be amazing at night.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Easter Dinner

    5. april, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 70 °F

    A departure from our traditional Easter ham, yakiniku. You fry meat on a metal grill, also includes vegetables and side dishes. To drink we had some sort of lemon drink with alcohol.

    Was all good and I only almost caught my hand on fire once. Minimal burning it's fine.

    There might be some delay with Kyoto posts as the city is just overwhelming to a history geek like me.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende
    4
    1

    Kyoto Arrival and Kiyomizu-dera

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After a crowded, but efficient train ride with barely any time wasted getting lost we arrived in Kyoto, the second historical capital of Japan. And we promptly got lost in a mall in the basement of the second biggest train station in Japan.

    When we finally found the right exit closest to our apartment, we locked our bags into a locker and walked, like idiots, to our first temple. I say that in hindsight because we walked 13.98 miles by the end of the day.

    Kiyomizu-dera, the pure water temple
    Established 778, the Otowa waterfall flowing through is believed to grant health, longevity, and academic success. People line up to drink from the corresponding spill.

    Also famous for its huge wooden stage built without nails.

    As with most larger temple complexes, it has a shopping street leading into it. That's where we got our roasted chestnut ice cream.

    It's a huge complex, very beautiful surroundings, thirty buildings in all. It has burned/ been damaged many times. Most recent rebuild by Tokugawa Iemitsu in 1633.    Læs mere

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    3

    Kiyomizu-dera 2

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 66 °F

    More from the temple, and a roasted chestnut ice cream we ate for good measure.

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Gion Streets and Kodai-ji

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    Gion is an area of Kyoto with a high concentration of temples and shrines. Growing up around them, as everywhere, homes and businesses. It also overlapped a famous hanamachi, a " flower town" or geiko district. If you're familar with the book or movie, Memoirs of a Geisha, Gion is where much of the story takes place. There are still teahouses where geiko and maiko entertain today. However, they only walk on closed streets to avoid being accosted by tourists.

    After a walk through the area, we came to our destination, Kodai-ji. It was established in 1606 in memory of Toyotomi Hideyoshi by his wife Nene. It's part of the Rinzai sect of Buddhism. Both Hideyoshi and Nene are enshrined here. In addition to that great historical connection, there's a tea house designed for the famous tea master Sen no Rikyu.

    A note on Hideyoshi, I have some little knowledge of Japanese history, and he's a very interesting figure to me. His enshrinement here is why this temple was a must see. He's a huge figure in Japanese history, a man risen from the peasantry who united the nation. A tough man from tough times.

    Bonus pictures: a cute Peter Rabbit store in Gion    Læs mere

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    Keage Incline and lunch

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    The Keage Incline is a 1900 foot inclined railway, built in 1891 to move boats along an elevation difference on the old Biwa Canal. Today, it's a walking trail, famous for its cherry blossoms, most of which were falling down.

    Lunch was gyukatsu, a breaded beef steak with shredded cabbage salad, miso soup, rice, an onsen egg, and a matcha beer.    Læs mere

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    2

    Nanzen-ji Temple

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 73 °F

    Nanzen-ji is a Zen Buddhist temple, established in 1281 by Emperor Kameyama. It's the head Temple of the Nanzen branch of Rinzai sect, the "first temple of the Land" . It encompasses 660,000 square meters at the base of the Higashiyama Mountains and has 12 sub temples.

    Outstanding features:
    72 foot Sanmon Gate
    Hoko Garden, a dry landscape rock garden, the abbot's quarters with screen paintings by the Kano School including many tigers (unfortunately no photos allowed of almost all of these), and an aqueduct constructed in 1890 to bring water from the Lake Biwa Canal.

    Why it was high on my list: tigers, leopards and aqueduct.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende
    1

    Higashi tenno Okazaki Shrine

    6. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 72 °F

    aka Usagi Jinja /the bunny temple

    Founded 794 by Emperor Kanmu as a protective shrine on the east side of the city

    Dedicated to the divine couple Susanoo-no-Mikoto and Kushinadahime-no-Mikoto who had eight children

    In 1178 it became associated with fertility

    Why the link with rabbits? Fertility, but also the zodiac sign rabbit is associated with the east and the shrine was on the eastern limits of the city.

    Why it made my must do list: BUNNIES! No wolpertingers, alas, but plenty of bunnies. Also wanted a good luck charm for safe childbirth for our daughter, and this is THE place for them.

    Also included here, our walk to the shrine, and the traditional bedroom in our apartment, the gift our host left for us, and a macha kitkat.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Bling Day

    7. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 55 °F

    There's been a noticeable absence of bling in my posts, unlike our Germany trips where we hit every noble bling hoard we can. But here it is, today.

    Kinkaku-ji Temple aka "the Golden Pavillion"
    Built in 1397 as a retirement villa for the shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, it became a Zen temple in 1408. It was burned down in 1950 by a monk who couldn't stand its beauty.

    Each floor represents a different architectural style
    -first floor is Sinden style, the style of palaces in the Heian Period. Statues of Shaka Buddha (historical Buddha) and Yoshimitsu are stored here
    -second floor is Bukke style, used in samurai residences and covered in gold leaf. Contains statues of Kannon and the Four Heavenly Kings
    -third floor is a Chinese Zen hall topped with a golden phoenix

    Included are pictures of pictures of the statues, since you can't see them from across the water.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende
    13

    Nishiki Market

    7. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 50 °F

    Nishiki Market, where we had some food and enjoyed the ambiance.

    Food including minced meat croquette, potato and minced meat croquette, vegetable tempura, folded omelet tempura, tako temago (octopus with a quail egg in its head), daifuku mochi (sweetened rice flour candy) with red bean paste and a strawberry, and a Snoopy-yaki, a fried pastry with strawberry custard.Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Yasaka Shrine

    7. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 54 °F

    Dedicated to Susanoo, his consort Kushinadahime and their eight children, construction began in 656. It received imperial patronage in 869 when the emperor called for special rituals to appease evil spirits thought to have caused a plague.

    The shrine is an important part of Gion's culture, and has long been a patron of the arts.

    Also included a white bird, more cherry blossoms, a delicious piece of cake, and Ichiriki Chaya Gion. This tea house is one of the most exclusive in Japan, invitation only, on par with elite private clubs.

    It's historically significant, as it's associated with Oishi Kuranosuke Yoshio, one of the leaders of the Ako Vendetta (1701-1703), in which a group samurai sought to avenge the death of their colleague who was forced to kill himself after wounding an obnoxious court official. The forty-seven samurai (turned rogue so therefore called ronin) did defeat and kill the official and many of his retainers. When caught by officials, they were granted the right to commit ritual suicide, rather than be treated as criminals. It's an interesting story, told many times in movies, plays, etc. It's also one of the teahouses featured in Memoirs of a Geisha.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Nishi Hongan-ji

    7. april, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 54 °F

    Nishi Hongan-ji temple serves as the head temple of Jodo Shinsu Buddhism. During the Warring States Period, the head of the sect opposed the powerful warlord Oda Nobunaga, who was fearful of the sect's power. A ten year period of conflict occurred, after which the abbot Kennyo surrendered, but his son didn't. After Nobunaga's death, Kennyo was rewarded with land in Kyoto by his successor, Toyotomi Hideyoshi, and you all know how much I like him.

    It's a very big, colorful, beautiful temple, and pictures were allowed inside.

    The first fourteen pictures are from the "side gate". Mesmerizing.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Streets and Sushi

    7. april, Japan ⋅ 🌙 50 °F

    Here's one for the home folks finally, sushi. We went to a safe for non-fish lover kaiten sushi place we had seen recommended by a local guide. Choices included various salmon, tuna, perch, shrimp, eel, Inari (seasoned rice inside a pouch of deep fried tofu), folded omelet, crab, and raw squid. I gave that one a pass.

    Also random pictures from around, including what looked like a temple supply store.    Læs mere

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    Mount Kurama and Kuramadera

    8. april, Japan ⋅ ☀️ 46 °F

    Kyoto day 3, in which we get out of town...

    We rode the subway out of town, then a cute little train towards the mountains. From there, we hiked up and over Mount Kurama, visiting Kuramadera Temple.

    It's a beautiful area, nice hike, good temple. Besides the quiet and calm, a nice change of pace after the craziness of these busy cities, the temple has an interesting historical connection. Yes, of course.

    Short version... Minamoto no Yoshitune was the son of an important noble who was killed during the wars marking the end of the Heian Period. Yoshitune was sent to live with the monks on the mountain here, where he trained to be a warrior. Long story short, he became a great warrior and on with his older half brother Yoritomo, defeated the Taira clan who had killed their father. Yoshitune was the one in the field who had done the heavy lifting, and as such was wildly popular. His half brother didn't like this much, and they fell out, resulting in Yoshitune eventually being forced to kill himself. He's viewed as a tragic hero in Japan, and there are many legends about him.

    The temple itself was established in 770 by the monk Gatei, who came to the mountain following a vision.

    Despite the signs warning about bears, didn't see any.    Læs mere

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    So Tired

    8. april, Japan ⋅ 🌙 61 °F

    After getting back from Kurama, we picked up some pastries and coffee from a vending machine. Yes, hot coffee in a can from a machine. No pictures, sorry.

    I was so tired, I didn't even take pictures of dinner. There are a few of Kyoto Station, which is a destination in itself. It has a couple large department stores, food areas, and myriad other shopping opportunities. It's the second biggest station in Japan. There's a rooftop garden, a skyway that lights up, and fancy lighted steps. So yes, we visited the train station.

    We also went to eat at the tenth floor ramen food court. Esteban Akula wanted to try tsukemen, which is a kind of ramen with heavier, chewer noodles you dip into the broth, which is thick and pretty strong tasting. It was an interesting version of what we're used to. But somehow, can't find the pictures of it, or just didn't take any?

    This was a tiring day. That mountain knocked me back a bit.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Fushimi Inari

    9. april, Japan ⋅ ⛅ 50 °F

    We saved what might be the most Instagramed spot in Kyoto for our last day.

    This is the head shrine of the 30,000 shrines nation wide. It was founded in 711, and dedicated to Inari Okami, deity of rice, agriculture, and business prosperity. Businesses buy/donated the gates with the hope it will make them prosperous. The custom originated in the Edo period, when the Tokugawas ruled. In addition, there are statues of foxes throughout the shrine, as Inari is associated with the fox.

    Tourist-wise, as I mentioned, it's famous for its thousands of bright orange torii gates, an Instagram mecca.

    Also known for wild boars and monkeys, but we didn't see any. Far too many people. We arrived before 8:00, and when we left around 10, you could barely walk through the crush of people coming in.    Læs mere

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  • Wolpertinger WanderingsPivot East: JapanRejsende

    Uji

    9. april, Japan ⋅ ☁️ 63 °F

    After the crowds at Fushimi Inari, and seeing we were already on the south(?) side of the city, we jumped on a train for Uji. Once a retreat for the Imperial court, it's more famous as the birthplace of matcha.

    We came to see Byodin Temple, dedicated as a temple in 1052 by a member of the Fujiwara family, the ones who were actually running the empire at that point. Inside the Phoenix Hall, is a statue of Amida Buddha carved by the famous sculptor Jocho. As usual, no pictures.

    Also included, lunch from a little local café with a proprietor who reminded me of my father, and a matcha latte, because when in Uji...    Læs mere

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