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India - a journey to me
  • ArtyGirl

India - a journey to me

India - coming face to face with my heritage. Meeting old friends and new. A creative Odessa with a horse or two thrown into the mix. Read more
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  • Trip start
    January 6, 2024
    ArtyGirlIndia - a journey to meTraveler

    Time to Fly …

    January 7, 2024 in Scotland ⋅ ⛅ -1 °C

    Mad hair and packing nightmare - no going back now. Time to put the big girl pants on and embrace the adventure. Also need to learn to navigate this Finding Penguins app. A bit of a ‘mare for technically challenged. Watch this space for more!! I shall miss the tranquility of the Highlands - Mumbai will be such a contrast. I have no idea what to expect. A real visual and olfactory assault. Is that the word or am I being far too clever for my own good?

    Interesting first flight - currently in transit at Dohar. Standards slipping only my second glass of bubbles! Next stop Mumbai.

    Little My enjoying the Sushi and general hospitality.    Read more

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    First day - Mumbai

    January 8, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    It all feels surreal. It’s loud, noisy, hot, crowded, colourful, sensual, fragrant in many ways.

    The streets of Mumbai were incredibly quiet when I arrived at 4am this morning. Twinkling lights of the Indian flag punctuating the smoky darkness.

    Breakfast coffee at Leonard’s one of Mumbai’s oldest eating establishments followed by a late leisurely lunch at the Taj. Talk about a tale of two halves; wooden tables crammed cheek by jowl and over the top glitzy Christmas decorations. Crumbling doorways, majestic facades, intricate carvings, ornate balconies, dangling wires. Black and yellow taxis converging like a swarm of bees, rusty buses that should by rights be gracing the scrap heap, honking horns, big cars, bicycles, scooters. The sheer scale of India Gateway. A veritable mix. This is Mumbai and I am here.

    I got bindi-fied by a holy man. Goodness knows what was in those sweets he got me to eat! Karma comes in the form of cheap red wool and bartering.

    It’s a joy meeting people face to face after chatting online.    Read more

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    A Whirlwind! Day 3 /4

    January 9, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    More - a city of ‘More’. There must be a better word but I can’t think at the moment. Overwhelmed by noise, colour, people, sights, sounds, smells. It’s as if one’s senses have been shaken - scrap that. They have been crudely bundled and thrown into a blender on full speed and thrown into a glass. Not your average Martini - gently stirred, not shaken.

    Survived taxi ride in convoy. No
    passenger mirror and they don’t stay in lane. Let’s not go there.

    In Valparaiso we saw street dogs aplenty. Here in Mumbai there are cats. Scrawny little bundles.

    Spent the morning sketching - or attempting to sketch at the market. It’s the first day - be kind. I shall be sketching like a pro by the end of this trip in glorious Scrummylicious colour.

    People are curious. They approach, emboldened by their genuine interest and curiosity. The men interacted more. They tried their broken English with much jollity between themselves. . The women generally shied away. I didn’t feel threatened - but it was strange being the object of such curiosity.

    We also explored the textile market. Who mentioned fabric ?    Read more

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    Mumbai - A cocktail of colour

    January 10, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    Reflecting back on yesterday’s urban sketch session. I was quite disappointed with my work. However, it’s a sketch not a masterpiece. Time to embrace the challenge.

    Morning spent exploring Mumbai. It has a really interesting history. Originally seven islands Mumbai now has a population of between 23/25 million.

    Mumbai is a heaving metropolis. A densely woven fabric; cashmere and silk; linen and cotton. However look and you will see imperfections in this fabric of life. A knot, a slub, a pull in the weave. I notice these imperfections at night. When the children who should be sleeping are still up. Young girls who should be in school begging for food. Bodies lying prone in the doorways. Rubbish as bedding. Life doesn’t stop at nightfall.

    I’m thinking I have a cheeky gremlin in my room. I definately turned the lights off - and they were shining brightly at 3.30am.    Read more

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    Banganga

    January 11, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    Banganga. An incredibly spiritual place in the Malabar Hills area of Mumbai. Veranasi in miniature perhaps. The Banganga Water Tank forms part of the Hindu Walkeshwar Temple complex; single room dwellings surrounded on all sides by brand spanking new high rise hotels. People live their lives outside - get their haircut, eat, sleep, gather, pray.

    We sat on the steps by the water to draw along with children playing, families praying, inquisitive geese and the odd rat! Despite the heat it was an incredible experience. A sense of calm amongst the brouhaha of humanity.

    A temple lunch - banana leaves and fingers. A fascinating visit to the laundry where the absence of women was noticeable. A mountain of clothes and no obvious system. I don’t know how it works but it does. And a meet up with an old friend. I still can’t draw - but that’s for another day.    Read more

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    The Chawl and Jazz Sitar!

    January 12, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    It’s been quite a day. First stop Ambewadi Chawl. A narrow lane with small houses packed cheek by jowl on both sides festooned with all the detritus that punctuates daily life. Washing hanging underneath and over balconies adding a pop of colour. Plants too.

    A Chawl is similar to a tenement - compact with communal toilet facilities. Each Chawl has a water tank and every morning someone needs to switch on the pump for the daily allocation of water. It’s a bustling community where everyone looks after each other. Rent is nominal which means repairs are down to the tenants. We had a wonderful morning sketching, largely ignored by the residents who continued their daily routine. Although there was smiling and waving and wallahs hawking their goods selling chai and coconuts.

    Interesting evening at the Mumbai Opera House. Went to see a performance by world renowned tabla player Zakir Hussain and sitar player Niladri Kumar. An interesting mix of classic and jazz.    Read more

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    Art deco Mumbai and Diva Delights!

    January 13, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 31 °C

    There are many facets to Mumbai. This morning we explored Mumbai’s Art Deco sector, now recognised as a UNESCO world heritage site. Mumbai has the largest collection of art deco buildings after Miami. An interesting mix of Art Deco with Indian influences.

    We were treated to the most refreshing local drink courtesy of some random home owner. They were somewhat charmed by this crazy group sitting outside drawing their home. True Indian hospitality.

    Interesting taxi trip across a gridlocked Mumbai. A combination of blocked streets for Modi’s visit and the air show.

    We also had a tour of the BMC. Mumbai Municipal Council building. It’s an incredible feat of architecture. Imposing with real gold on the ceiling of the main chamber.

    Diva mini strop drawing this afternoon in the late afternoon attempting to draw part of the Central Station. I got there in the end! Tip from Zainab - need to stop over thinking. It’s certainly full on and challenging !

    Evening spent dining at one of Mumbai’s latest eateries. It’s in an old ice factory. Impressive setting. Great cocktails!    Read more

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    The Spice Market, Mumbai

    January 14, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 32 °C

    I’m still processing today’s trip to the spice market. There was a rhythm to the machines pounding the chili. You could almost dance to it.

    People really stare when a mixed group of strangers appear with sketching paraphernalia. Initially it felt almost threatening having groups of men staring and I mean staring at you full on. They are curious when we sit and sketch and come and stand quite close. Having said that we’ve met some lovely people and have had great conversations. I think they are genuinely surprised.

    We literally swam through a sea of people fighting our way through the narrow market lanes. Found a spot in an enclosed doorway after getting separated from the group. Thankfully with Joanie and Suhita who is hosting this tour alongside Zainab. . The two guys in the biscuit stall were charmed by Joanie’s drawing of them. Lots of smiling and nodding of heads and photos. It was very strange being photographed.

    Was largely ignored sitting sketching with Maria, Marcel and Judith. They are fair and therefore interesting. I guess I blended into the background for once with my very dark hair.

    Moved by Zainab’s generosity too this morning. Impromptu loo break at her home.

    Finished the evening with a much needed but expensive G&T after a very successful shopping trip! But not fabric this time !    Read more

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    Little My comes out to play!

    January 15, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 24 °C

    Last day in Mumbai. Next stop Kochi.

    Little My came out to play today. She met the firemen, had a cuddle with an Indian grandma, followed by sketching, cocktails at the Taj and the best coffee in Mumbai. She’s exhausted.

    Really enjoyed today‘s sketching. The man from the banana stall came over with a friend to see what we were up to. Lots of curious people! Can’t believe I left my phone behind on the scooter - and it was still there when Elizabeth ran back for it.

    Marcelle completed her commission for the Fire Chief and got paid in chai. She drew there on her first day and promised to return. They were ecstatic and gave us a tour of the station. I got to sit in the fire engine and try on a helmet. Flip! they’re heavy!

    Thankfully we have group tickets. Indigo and Air India have a 15kg limit. I have 22kg. ! Let’s not talk about my hand luggage. I guess I don’t do light!    Read more

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    Fort Kochi an interesting start !

    January 16, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 20 °C

    Left the hustle and bustle of Mumbai today to fly south to Kochi, It’s very different here, tropical almost. The amount of rubbish is still staggering. We are staying on the island of Fort Kochi. Delays at the airport made sweeter by Zainab’s goody bag. I’m sticking close. Managed to do some sketching whilst waiting for take off. A man snoozing - saggy jowls and bushy moustache just begging to be sketched. Zainab took photos whist Suhita sketched me sketching!

    Shaky start to this part of the trip. I restrained from having full on hissy strop when confronted with the darkest mustiest room ever. I guess the humidity doesn’t help. You can cut through it with a knife.

    They speak Malayalam here - very different to the other Indian languages. The word may have originated from a local dialect. Mala means hill and Alam may mean depths of the ocean. So Malayalam may refer to the land lying between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea. Something to explore anyway.

    The main drag seems a bit of a dive. The Blackpool of India. Fort Kochi is a coastal place. More foreign tourists - or maybe it seems that way because it is more compact. It’ll hopefully look better in daylight.

    Went to watch a Kathakali performance this evening. Story telling through expressive dance. where the make up session is part of the performance. Colourful and expressive. Fun to sketch.

    Thankfully found a bar with excellent prawn tempura and beer. Much needed after a long arduous day. Can’t believe they’ve had four inches of snow at home.    Read more

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    Fort Kochi

    January 17, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 27 °C

    A challenging but fun morning sketching down by the sea watching the fishermen cleaning their nets and the fish vendors gutting and cleaning them to sell. A feast for the birds. The hooded crows were the only ones brave and cheeky enough to venture up close. Almost too close at times pooping generously on those within firing range. Really quite chuffed with my first drawing. Juicy colours in the second but more variation needed.

    We are quite the spectacle wherever we sit and draw. People are curious to see what we are doing. Not sure if it’s the sketching or the colour of our skin - well maybe not so much mine. There’s a curiosity on both sides.

    Tasty but somewhat hurried lunch at Fusion. Seemed strange listening to Bob Marley whilst sitting in a small eatery in Fort Kochi. Well, why not. Music has no boundaries.

    Goats in the road, men in dhotis - (think that’s what they’re called) and Tuk tuks aplenty.

    Can’t believe tomorrow is our last day with Zainab and Suhita. It’s been a blast. The crunch will come when I head off to Rajastahn on my own.    Read more

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    Last day with the group

    January 18, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    How time flies when you’re having fun. And it has been fun. The odd hiccup - arrival and crap room here in Fort Kochi but that’s minor.

    We went to the Jewish sector yesterday, aptly called Jew Town. Not very PC and quite uncomfortable being in the synagogue in the light of the current situation in Gaza.

    The Synagogue is the oldest surviving working synagogue in the Commonwealth and was built in 1568. It’s known as the Pardesi Synagogue as it was built by the Portuguese speaking Sephardic Jews. Pardesi means foreigner - in Malalayam. I think. Fort Cochin was the first European settlement in India. The Portuguese arrived first, followed by the Dutch and then the British.

    We had a great guide. Entertaining and enlightening. Oh my goodness she spoke fast and gave us the full history in 45 minutes! She also had a brilliant sense of humour. There are more than communities, speaking 16 different languages co existing peacefully in Kerala. It has a unique character due mainly to the fact those here had more contact with the Arab world and Europe due to the natural deep harbour on one side and the high mountains giving little or scant access on the other.

    Sketching, Italian coffee (I kid you not) and colourful quaint streets. I can’t believe that today is the last day of the Mumbai / Kochi sketch tour. Suhita and Zainab are fun, crazy, talented, warm individuals. They complete opposites but work so well together. Passionate about art, Mumbai, India and her culture. It’s been a real privilege.

    It’s been challenging, exhilarating and fun. Noisy, overwhelming, vibrant, hot, dusty. Inspiring, harrowing, crowded.

    People are insanely curious and kind. They stop and chat and take photos. They also hassle big time. There is a real divide between rich and poor. It’s heartbreaking and one needs a hardened heart. Apparently it is ok for Indian people to give to beggars but not foreigners. The best way to help is to support NGO’s, buy locally from artisans and women’s cooperatives.

    Now for the next stage of the journey.    Read more

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    New day new adventures

    January 19, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    Next time I’m going to bring nothing but knickers and my credit card. Well maybe just one pair of trousers and a shirt otherwise I might get arrested for indecency!

    Sad to say goodbye to people as they slowly peel away from the group. There’s an intimacy to sketching and drawing together. You sit quietly, observing life as it noisily unfurls around you. It’s strangely comforting.

    Shopping, sketching, coffee and beer punctuated by good company and laughter. Lots of it. With friends. With strangers. It’s uplifting. It’s life.

    Good fun banter with the fruit seller - we commandeered a chair for Judith and he posed for us. Chatted to school kids, had our photo taken a gazillion times. An entertaining morning sketching followed by
    lunch in the leafy splendour of the harbour hotel. Later, time alone with Little My down by the pool listening to the general hubbub of life, amused by the crows chattering as they drank from the pool.; the odd one regurgitating the contents of whatever oddity it had consumed. Charming. I’m goong to have to get used to my own company on the final leg of this trip.

    Heading off with Joannie tomorrow on part two of our adventures. Pondicherry, Chettinad and Madurai. No shopping till Jaipur she says as a pig flys past the window.    Read more

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    Another Suitcase another town

    January 20, 2024 in India ⋅ 🌙 27 °C

    Another musty room. Currently high on lemongrass oil ! It takes all sorts. I have a feeling I will crash in my dinner tonight. Exhausted after stupidly early start and long drive from Chennai to Pundicherry.

    The scenery is very different here. Still tropical - flatter, open space rice fields, open water, birds, cows and rubbish. So much rubbish. Rambling shacks rub shoulders with more substantial dwellings. There is a riot of colour. The whole spectrum - pastels and patterns to saturated limes and deep teal blues. The women’s saris seem brighter here. Shocking pinks and purples
    and the bright reds and orange of the temple women. A sensory explosion.

    Stopped off at the Mahabalipuram Temples on the way. Joannie’s enthusiasm and love of temples will rub off on me over the next five days and I shall be waxing lyrical about them. Having said that, carvings are really quite spectacular.

    Pundicherry is a mix of French and Indian. Strange to see flaky croissants and macrons in the heart of India. Took a post supper walk along the beach. People watching fun. Especially at the government rally we chanced upon. Bollywood style loud music and psychedelic light show. It’s the men that shake their hips Not the done thing for women to unravel their saris!    Read more

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    Pundicherry as in Real Marrigold Hotel

    January 21, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 30 °C

    A full on day of colour, colour and more colour. I love Pundicherry. Or is it Puducherry. One is the district one is the town. So strange to see flaky croissants, macrons and street signs in French. There’s a white town, a black town and normal town whatever that means. The pink, blue and yellow buildings are French. The white buildings are Puducherry/French and the grey buildings are owned by the Ashram. A typical Tamil Nadhu house has lots of columns.

    Our guide was a lovely young man of 24. Originally from Rahastahn, he came to Pondicherry 5 years ago to learn French and be a guide. We had to persuade him to get down and dirty and take us away from the tourist trail. We saw temples and more temples. The Shiva temple was the best - very local and we watched the puja - blessing. Giggling school girls, a blushing bride and a seven year old celebrating her birthday. I even got to cuddle a baby. They bought her to the temple to taste her first real food. People are kind when you stop and engage with them. It’s been a real journey of discovery. There are professional beggars here too. Somewhat bizarre to listen to a Catholic Mass in Tamil. Loved the flower market but the grandmas in the fish market were quite fierce. I could take a photo of the fish but not of them.

    Poor Joannie got clobbered by a lump of ice from a defunct AC unit.
    Talk about Fawlty Towers! We leave tomorrow for Chettinad.    Read more

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    Temples and more

    January 22, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 29 °C

    A long day driving through rural India from Pondicherry to Chettinadu.

    Initial first impressions on arrival weren’t the best. We thought we’d landed at an Ashram. Spartan rooms, but clean. Set menu - one size fits all. Joannie is trying to teach me the art of being vague - Fare lo vago! We gate crashed a private party in great hysterics - punch drunk after eleven hours on the road. The vodka and tonic was very welcome and we met a really interesting couple. She’s Finnish, he’s Indian. What a fantabulous mix.

    A day of incredible temples and the odd puja. Lots of selfies and smiles. It’s like being in a virtual reality Bollywood movie. Everyone wants to take have their photo taken with you. In turn they are equally gracious at letting you take their photos. I’ve mastered the art of saying thank you in Tamil. It’s brought many a smile and a willingness to pose!

    Blown away by the sheer. scale of the temples along with the colours and carvings. There’s a sense of peace and wonderment as families and friends gather together.    Read more

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    It’s not an Ashram !

    January 23, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 25 °C

    After a good night’s sleep the Bangala has morphed from Ashram into charming hotel.

    Going to ensure we have an Indian breakfast tomorrow it looked delicious. Took a walk around the backstreets. My Tamil is improving. I can now say good morning / wrlcome. More smiles, laughter, nodding of heads and bringing together of hands. We got invited in for chai and a tour of a private home. It was beautiful. Marble floors and teak wood. Met the cat, the grandfather, sister and wife. Looked at antiques, the alter, a wedding album and saw her beautiful wedding sari. She also let down her hair. Amazing privilege.

    Met goats, squawking chickens and marvelled at the riot of colour. Saturated colours of the rainbow. Clashing patterns, peeling paint.

    Came back for a refreshing dip in the pool, got out the paints and chilled. Had to laugh when we got a cup of chai when I asked if they could move the chair!    Read more

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    It’s not an Ashram part II !

    January 23, 2024 in India ⋅ ☀️ 30 °C

    Chettinad is famous for it mansions of which there are 5,000 spread over 74 different villages. Some have been restored, but many have fallen into disrepair. Heartbreaking to see these once magnificent dwellings reduced to a mere shadow of their former glory. Many were abandoned after partition.

    Little My came to watch a cooking demonstration. We feasted like kings and imbibes on an illicit beer

    Our guide is fantabulous. A real gem. !    Read more

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    A kaleidoscope of colour and detals

    January 24, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    An incredible mix of colour, details, and textures. India doesn’t stop giving and I’m embracing every moment. . We saw some more of these magnificent mansion for which Chettinad is famous. They were built for the wealthy traders and money lenders and abandoned after partition when the British left. It’s a brutal legacy and heartbreaking to see these once magnificent mansions falling into disrepair. Many are still in private ownership but family infighting means that more often than not they are abandoned and left to crumble.

    I am humbled Buntheit people of India. Especially the women who work tirelessly for little recognition. No health and safety rules and long hours. Tripped over a smouldering stick, was gently scolded and then not allowed to leave until grandma‘s potion applied. I did make them smile too.

    Gate crashed a wedding - got hauled in to have our photos taken with the bride and groom. She looked beautiful despite the tears as she was leaving her mum. They wanted us to join in the celebrations.

    Hopefully we inspired our lovely guide with our own stories. They’re not so different from her own. Had to laugh when we asked to go to a western toilet - on discovering we only needed a pee it was a quick trip round the back of the building. Al fresco and drip dry. Too much information.

    Loved the horses at the temple. Need to look up the name.    Read more

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    Bindi, Pomp and Circumstance!

    January 25, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 32 °C

    Greeted on arrival with fancy parasol, music, filming, ceremonial bindis and photos only to discover we had been dropped at the wrong hotel! Just can‘t get the drivers, nor welcome drinks these days.

    Arrival Take II - flower garlands, freshen up towels and welcome drink. And the right hotel.

    Just arrived in Madurai having left the film stars back at The Bangala with George fawning all over Mr Tamil Nadu or Andra Pradesh. So funny to see.

    We saw a couple of processions this morning as groups of people made their way to the temples. The women especially were decked in the brightest of saris. It’s a holy day when Lord Shiva and Parvathi are taken from the temple and washed before being returned to the temple.

    Great fun afternoon tour. The banana market set Joannie and I singing much to everyone’s amusement. Visited the main palace and saw the outside of the temple. Both are incredible and the scale indescribable. The temple grounds span 15 acres. Each gate is 56m in height and adorned with 1300 figures carved out of stucco. They are repainted every two years.
    As ever got asked for selfies and group photos. It doesn’t take much to smile and be kind. People are genuinely excited to have their photo taken with us. Lots of waving, handshakes and cuddling of babies.

    Spent our last evening with Marcelle dreaming of a cold beer only to find that much of India is dry today and tomorrow. I guess we’ve joined dry January albeit a tad late.

    Can’t believe that I shall be heading to Northern India tomorrow to start the next leg of this adventure.    Read more

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    Delhi albeit fleetingly

    January 26, 2024 in India ⋅ ⛅ 19 °C

    Only stayed one night in Delhi. Note to self : never travel on Republic Day ! Security is mega tight and common sense is non existent. Anything goes.

    They scanned my bag three times, in Madurai and made me take anything metal out. And I mean everything ! Clips, tin box, paintbrushes. He tipped the contents of my pencil case out, opened my fountain pen, and nearly confiscated my tea! That really would have been the end of the world. I think he was more curious after the second bag scan. I finally showed him my sketch book. I’m not sure what he thought but he half smiled and finally gave up on me.

    And we won’t even talk about bag scans before check in - thankfully no dirty knickers on show whilst searching for elusive battery pack or whatever they decided I should extract. In fact it was my head torch. Still politeness ruled and we had quite a good banter.

    It was cold in Delhi. Looking forward to maybe exploring on my last day.

    Crazy selection at breakfast. Italian cheeses - albeit with wrong spelling and crazy donut display. Wonder what they do with the left overs !    Read more

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    Rajastahn - Digging the Vibe

    January 27, 2024 in India ⋅ ☁️ 26 °C

    Plane hopping again. Waltzed through security after yesterday’s shenanigans. What was that all about and what’s with confiscating my mosquito spray??? That’s India. No rhyme or reason.

    I’m loving it here so far. Staying in what was once an old family home. More about the House of Rohat later. It’s quite amusing I’m in a long sleeve linen shirt and others are in padded down jackets.

    There’s a real sense of character to this place. It’s battered and bruised in places but sits proudly in the landscape. Deep ochres, earthy reds and beautiful details. The general manager has a ‘tache to die for and the staff wear colourful turbans.

    The horses are gentle and I’m so in love with their curly ears. Off to ride early tomorrow. It’s very different up here in the north.

    The musicians sang a song about a wife having hiccups which were only cured after she said her husband’s name. They named the wife after me.

    .    Read more

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    Rajastahn - Mixed Day

    January 28, 2024 in India ⋅ ☁️ 15 °C

    I need to let go of some baggage - not the physical stuff I’ve packed in my suitcase. Truth be told I need to let go of that too.

    People here are genuinely curious and charming. I think on the whole they really do want to share with you. Somehow my cynical western mind is a tad suspicious and sometimes I think too much about what people might be thinking. Note to self - so what. Just keep embracing the experience and for now take things at face value and don’t overthink it.

    I‘m so not good at bartering. I obviously paid far too much as I was given a couple of extra gifts. Where are you Joannie. It’s an art travelling alone. Enjoyed the horse riding - and then later found myself on the back of a motorbike. Kinda hairy driving into oncoming traffic to join the opposite carriageway.

    Everyone knows everyone here. Went to visit one family in the village and shared chai. One of the hotel waiters subsequently told me his wife applied my Mehendi - Henna and another told me his wife demonstrated the sewing. An intimate moment to share. Off to Jodpur tomorrow. The Blue City.    Read more

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    Jodpur - the Blue City

    January 29, 2024 in India ⋅ ☁️ 20 °C

    Headed into Jodpur today to visit the Mehrangarh Fort. It is one of the largest in Rajastahn built in 1459 by the Rajput ruler of Rathore,
    clan Rao Jodha, though most of the existing structure is from the 17th century. There are seven gates; the main gate, Jai Pol, 'victory gate' was built by Maharaja Man Singh to commemorate his victories over the Jaipur and Bikaner armies in 1806.

    It is an incredible complex of intricately carved palaces currently undergoing restoration.

    I’m really not loving is the obligatory shopping stop at the end of every tour. Unfortunately I killed the credit card in Jodpur as the obligatory shopping stop involved fabric! Got to check out some fabulous antique fabric after discarding the obligatory tat. Hopefully it will still be fantabulous when it gets home. Not that I need any more fabric! Or stuff.

    Persuaded my guide to take me on an extra tour to the blue city in the old town. It’s very blue. The colours sing and dance with women in bright saris and artfully placed drying laundry. Juicy oranges and reds against the blues and greens. Scrummylicious. More intricate carvings and crazy narrow streets. Old men passing the time of day and children playing cricket Marigold Hotel style. The buildings were painted blue by the Brahmin inhabitants to keep the houses cooler.

    Introduced to the current Maharajah Sidharth Singh who happened to pop by to meet up with old friends and former teacher who took me under their wing. He, and they, were charming. The Maharajah has a great love for the Marwari horses and has a stable full of them. His lIt’s his passion. Oh and Little My came out to play! A wonderful last evening at Rohet.    Read more

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    Riding and now Jaipur

    January 30, 2024 in India ⋅ ☁️ 16 °C

    Last morning at Rohet spent riding on my own with head trainer. A beautiful peaceful morning and no groom to hold onto the reins! A gentle trek across the desert. Saw strutting peacocks and antelopes on heat. Trotted back but declined riding in the arena. Regretting that slightly, but my backside decided otherwise.

    Village life in full swing on our return; curious children, shy school girls and honking horns with no respect for personal space. My four legged boy had the best manners. The trainer’s horse was very skittish and danced on his. I loved every minute and next time I return I’m going to canter across the desert. My challenge.

    Selfies with the Maharajah and new friends. Loved Rohet before setting off on long drive to Jaipur.

    The mornings start off cool, warming up through the day.    Read more

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