Dougarie (well, nearly)

Not sure how far I’ve walked today, but it took a long time. Slow going on the rocky bits with no footpath and (if I’m being honest), slow on the beautifully smooth road.
Took ages to get going - just rusty at getting everything packed away. Sun was out and it was a spectacular route. I didn’t see a soul for three hours. There was a fair bit of scrambling over ancient rockfalls and the graffiti on the signpost (see photo) was pretty accurate.
Lochranza was where I planned on having lunch. I could see the pub from across the bay. Cod and chips or maybe steak pie. When I got there it wasn’t a pub - just a pub-looking house with lots of vehicles parked around. I was ‘slightly disappointed’, but not for long.
Next property along was the village community centre and outside was a banner ‘Zero Waste Cafe Open’. A lady ushered me in and opened a door ‘we’re in here today and it’s a bit of a squeeze’. The small room was full and there was only one spare seat. I dumped my bag at the door and sat down. The only things on offer were soup with bread and tea and cakes. I thought that maybe I’d gatecrashed a pensioners lunch club. The waitress/cook told me that she worked for a charity trying to minimise food waste in Arran. They go round the villages once a month with a pop-up cafe. The soup was delicious and the flapjacks were just what I needed. I asked for two - rude but my energy was low. I’d already had extra bread. The bill was £2.50. I was only allowed to pay £5 by agreeing to taking another flapjack. She asked if I wanted it in a bag? Too late - I was already chewing.
The afternoon was mainly road walking but there was plenty to see along the way. In Pernill there was a restaurant and a shop. I hadn’t passed a single shop since Brodick. I needed food for this evening and was low on water. The little shop was shut! It closed at 3pm. Next door was ‘The Lighthouse Restaurant’ but it too had shut at 3pm. At least there was s public water fountain. It was turned off.
It was a slog over some very rough rocks and shingle (my legs are ok, it’s the weight of my pack that is slowing me down) towards the end of today. I still haven’t seen a shop. Should any of you ever come to Arran in March to camp, my advice would be take less clothes and bring more food.
Camping as close to the beach as possible this evening. I can hear the water lapping on the stones. Still haven’t seen an Otter. Maybe tomorrow.Read more