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- Day 1
- Tuesday, January 22, 2019 at 6:25 PM
- ☁️ 16 °F
- Altitude: 6,234 ft
United StatesJackson43°28’52” N 110°45’44” W
Magical Mountains
January 22, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☁️ 16 °F
We landed at Jackson, Wyoming at 1:00 pm. In the airport one is greeted with a very surprising illuminated display from the town of Jackson. It advises tourists:
It is not wrong to stop.
It is not weakness to turn around.
Before doing something foolish or dangerous, honestly measure your strength, ability, and experience against the mountain you have chosen.
When I saw that message directed at the thousands of tourists who come here, I knew this was no ordinary place.
Cowboys who used to come down from the north had such a steep drop from the surrounding mountains they named this place Jackson Hole. The sun shining on the tops of the Grand Teton Mountains was utterly breathtaking. There are no more beautiful mountains anywhere in the world. I was happy to see the park in the center of town. I recognized it from the webcam but somehow I had failed to notice that the archways at the corners of the park are made of huge elk antlers. I just hope the elk had gone to a different heaven before their antlers were harvested. I stopped in at the Judge Roy Bean Photography Shop and told the owner that the Judge was from Abner, NC in Montgomery County just north of Troy. He didn’t know that Bean was a Tarheel. We have returned from an interesting Tex-Mex restaurant called the Merry Piglets. Our tummies are full. We are safely tucked into a lovely, warm log cabin with a modern, yet rustic interior here at the appropriately named Rustic Inn of Jackson Hole. The wind is howling and the temperature is a bone-chilling 4 degrees F. I don’t even want to know what the chill factor is. Late tonight a blizzard begins. Pray for all the critters hunkered down outside tonight in these majestic hills. I know they’re accustomed to the cold, but a night like tonight can’t be easy, even for them.
But we are warm.
And very happy.Read more
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- Day 2
- Wednesday, January 23, 2019 at 8:06 AM
- 🌫 16 °F
- Altitude: 6,772 ft
United StatesTeton County43°43’13” N 110°39’31” W
Into the Tundra
January 23, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 16 °F
The animals who have lived in the Grand Teton Mountains since the dawn of time invited us into their home on this snowy morning. Well—sort of. The big horn sheep, who long ago learned that humans are no threat, allowed us to walk up close as the snow covered their woolly backs. A family of sharp-tailed grouse even posed for me. But the bison, moose and elk kept their distance. Still, we were able to capture some images worth keeping. Photos of the trumpeter swans and bald eagles were harder to get, but, nevertheless, we have the memories of their beauty. Dave, our guide, knew more facts about more subjects than most professors I have known. Moving to Wyoming from Alaska 28 years ago he has seen many changes here. He directed us to “The Local,” a restaurant that uses locally produced meat and produce as much as possible. Yet he was quick to tell us that Wyoming does very little farming. This state has a much harsher winter than even neighboring Idaho. Though it is one of the largest states, geographically speaking, Wyoming has the smallest population of any state. Even little Vermont has more people. Dave advised us to stop by the Silver Dollar Bar and Grill. Embedded in the top of the bar are over a thousand silver dollars. Many years ago the saloon burned down. Firefighters immediately chopped out the bar with axes and took it to storage and then started fighting the blaze. Now the old bar with its silver dollars intact is still in service. We had a wonderful bison burger at “The Local” made from the largest land mammal in North America. An adult bison weighs over a ton and stands about 15 feet long. A quick trip to the mall during which Glenda replaced her boots with warmer ones ended our afternoon. Now we have retreated to our warm cabin and are watching the end of this morning’s snowstorm.Read more
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- Day 3
- Thursday, January 24, 2019 at 10:47 AM
- ☀️ 19 °F
- Altitude: 7,362 ft
United StatesOld Faithful Geyser44°27’34” N 110°49’43” W
Yellowstone Road Race
January 24, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 19 °F
We signed on to take a 90 mile snowmobile ride through Yellowstone National Park assured that the leader would not exceed 35 mph. I thought this would be an excellent way to enjoy the lovely snowfall amid mountains of aspen trees. However, after dressing us like astronauts and giving us a brief introduction to the snowmobile, our leader set off at a pace well in excess of forty miles per hour. Due to the “slinky effect” we in the back sometimes had to reach sixty miles an hour to keep up with the machine ahead. Then I had to come to what would have been a screeching halt had we been on dry pavement. I spent most of the day driving dangerously fast for a snowmobile rookie. It was snowing heavily and the temperature was in the teens with fifty mile per hour winds. The heavy clothing and helmets kept us dry and quite comfortable, though. As I tore through the woods, there was little opportunity to appreciate the wonder of this beautiful snowscape. It was all I could do to focus on the snow machine in front of me. We did stop several times along the way to delight in the winter wonder, and to learn about the geothermal uniqueness of Yellowstone. We saw Old Faithful erupt, then took a walk around the Jewel Geyser nearby. I offered a sincere prayer of thanksgiving when we returned safely to the facility, where we deposited our snowmobiles, and shed our heavy clothing, transformed into ordinary humans again. We boarded the bus and fourteen very weary travelers returned to Jackson Hole’s cozy cabins. A herd of bison blocked traffic for twenty minutes as they crossed the road. Before the last one crossed, the head bison changed his mind and they all went back across the road they had just crossed. Glenda and I walked downtown for a pizza and returned exhausted to our cabin. All things considered, it was an excellent, though arduous day. I’m glad we did it, but once is enough. The folks who provide this trip delivered what they promised, but they are serious about snowmobiling. On the wall over the mantelpiece I would suspect they have a photo of Evil Knievel rather than John Muir.
Glenda’s reflections:
1. Yellowstone is beyond breathtaking in the winter. Snow blankets the trees, lakes are frozen, waterfalls are partially frozen and rivers cutting through a wilderness of snow offer a beautiful contrast. Amid all of this glorious beauty, we were hanging on for dear life as we scooted along at 60 mph. It was snowing and the wind was gusting at 50 mph . The snowmobile company said that our maximum speed would be 35 but the only time I saw 35 was when we were starting out. When I realized that the snowmobiles were basically motorcycles on skis, I decided that I would ride with our guide Boone on the back of his snowmobile. For seven hours I held on to my little handlebars and was very grateful that I was not driving. Chuck was behind me on his own snowmobile and I had no idea where he was or how he was doing. We both commented that the scenery would have been even more lovely had we been able to see it at about 10 mph as opposed to 50 mph. Since there had been snow the night before and all day during the day, there were no ruts for the snowmobiles to travel in and so it was a very bumpy ride. But we lived to tell the tale.
2. Do not sneeze while wearing your snowmobile helmet with the visor down. I could not let go of my handlebars for fear of flying off and down into a ravine so I sneezed wearing my helmet. I sneezed five times actually. Trust me, this was not a good idea. Any moisture inside of your visor freezes. I don’t think I need to say anything else about this.
3. Do not fall into a 4 foot deep snowbank in your snowmobile suit. Under my suit I was wearing long underwear, tights, ski bibs, a long sweat shirt and two coats. We were walking around looking like astronauts on the moon with very little flexibility since we were so bundled up. A lawyer from New York (need I say more) bumped me on his way to the frozen lake and down I went into the 4 foot snowbank. I was like a turtle on its back. I couldn’t roll over, I couldn’t even move because I was buried in snow. And when you fall in snow, your fall is silent so Chuck never knew I had hit the snowbank. There is an old question : “if a tree falls in the woods and no one is there to hear it, does it make any noise?“ The issue is, “is there snow on the ground or not?” Because if there is, nothing makes any sound, not a tree, not me, nor anything else that falls in the snow. Thankfully another guide walked by and pulled me up.
4. My final observation is that when you are in your snowmobile clothes you cannot go to the bathroom.
And if you try to go to the bathroom, it takes you 15 minutes just to take off clothing, use the bathroom and then put it all back on. It’s easier just not to go the bathroom. For the first time in my life, I thought Depends would be a great idea.Read more
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- Day 4
- Friday, January 25, 2019 at 10:31 AM
- ☀️ 23 °F
- Altitude: 6,243 ft
United StatesElk Exhibition Pasture43°31’7” N 110°44’11” W
Glenda's Birthday Present
January 25, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 23 °F
For the last several years I have wanted to give Glenda a sleigh ride for her birthday present. Today I was finally able to do that. We took a sleigh ride with our guide Michael out into the National Elk Preserve just north of Jackson Hole. The weather certainly cooperated. Temperatures were in the mid 20s, there was light snowfall and no wind. Cuddled under thick blankets we enjoyed Michael’s knowledgeable presentation on the elk herds in the Grand Tetons. Surrounding us was some of the most extravagantly magnificent scenery in God’s good Creation. In addition to the elk we saw trumpeter swans, coyotes, and several different types of birds. Returning to our cabin about lunchtime, we prepared for tonight’s dog sled race in Jackson Hole.Read more
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- Day 4
- Friday, January 25, 2019 at 6:57 PM
- ⛅ 25 °F
- Altitude: 6,250 ft
United StatesSaint Johns Nursing Home43°28’47” N 110°45’41” W
Dog Sled Races
January 25, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 25 °F
What do you do on a snowy Friday night? If you’re in Jackson Hole you stage a dog sled race. A couple thousand residents and visitors made their way from pizza parlors and steak houses to witness the ceremonial start of the Pedigree Dog Food Stage-Stop Dog Sled Race in downtown Jackson. There will be a total of eight stages in different parts of Wyoming over the next week, and the race will finish here in Jackson. Tonight’s stage is a ceremonial two-mile race from Jackson to the Snow King Ski Resort. Tomorrow’s stage will be about thirty miles long. Mushers are here from several northwestern states, Canada and Alaska. The dogs were hilarious with their barking and doggie antics. There was a wonderful spirit among the spectators as well. Several Jackson residents invited Glenda to return here often, and I became acquainted with spectators from North Carolina, Virginia, and Arkansas. I even had a chat with a family from Australia. What a great way to spend a Friday night!Read more
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- Day 5
- Saturday, January 26, 2019 at 11:08 AM
- ☀️ 28 °F
- Altitude: 6,713 ft
United StatesJack Pine Creek43°18’55” N 110°27’17” W
Walking in a Christmas Card
January 26, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 28 °F
Today we delighted in the most beautiful scenery we have witnessed so far. Instead of tearing through the mountains on snowmobiles at fifty miles an hour, we took a gentle ride into the mountains on a dog sled. Quietly we traveled at 10 miles per hour behind twelve of the most glee-filled creatures, skirting canyons, following frozen rivers and even brushing the snow off heavily laden aspens with our goggled faces. The changes in the light were magical. In the shadow of the mountains, when a dark cloud shaded the snow carpeted forest, I thought that God would appear. When the shadows were past and the sunlight beat against majestic peaks gleaming with snow the brilliance literally burned the eyes. Could heaven be more lovely? Looking at the snow that had collected on a forest of lodge pole pines I was reminded of the most elegant Christmas cards I can recall. But instead of blue and gold ribbons on the card, the blues and golds came from the very light itself, bouncing off from mountains and filtering through the branches. The blues came from a cobalt sky one could glimpse between the boughs. It was a wonderland. And we were not simply looking at it—we were walking in it. For moments at a time when the wind died down there was absolute, total silence. Christy, our guide, served us hot chocolate, delicious chili, and a big poppy seed muffin. After lunch we zipped up, goggled up and mittened up as we faced the western wind for the trip home. The dogs became more lively as they approached the ranch, knowing that the end of the journey was near. We picked up our trash and left nothing inside that snowy forest except footprints that will soon disappear. However, the forest left something inside of us that we will carry forever.
Glenda’s Snow reflections:
NC snow and Wyoming snow are very different. In most of the places we have visited, the snow is fine, powdery, and dry. They call it sugar snow. It is not snowman or snowball snow because it will not hold together. Currently the snow in the national parks and forests here is at least 4 feet deep. When you step on virgin snow your foot will sink about a foot but if you step in a place where someone has stepped before and packed down the snow, you may be fine or you may hit what they call breakthrough snow and then your foot will go down 3 feet or more. When one leg is buried in 3 feet of snow and the other is not, life can get interesting . If you put your hands down to try to push yourself up, your hands sink down and life gets even more interesting.
So......while the dog sledding day was fabulous, I had some interesting moments. Anyone who know me well knows that I can be a klutz. I do keep Chuck’s life interesting but, bless him, he always comes to my rescue.
Klutz moment 1:
When we got ready to get on our dog sleds, our guide saw Chuck with his big camera and said to me, “You mush first and let him take pictures and she put us in the first or lead sled. As I was standing on the back of the sled, I knew that our current situation had disaster written all over it but I decided to give it a try. Then she gives me tons of information about weight, balance, drag pads, brakes, and leaning away from a tilt. As we start on the trail out of the staging area, she yells that there is a big downhill slope that has been cut into the snow and I needed to get us
down the hill and onto the trail. Folks, what we had to go through was a tunnel of snow that had 4 feet sides of sugar soft snow. The dogs took off and I leaned and did all the stuff she had told me to do and within 10 feet I flipped our sled. Chuck and his camera were dumped into the snow bank and I landed beside him. We got ourselves out and righted the sled and I announced that I was riding and Chuck was going to get us down the hill/tunnel. So, we changed places and were once again ready to go when I realized that the bag containing our lunches in the front of our sled had become unstrapped in the snow chaos of flipping and rolling. Chuck goes to the front of the sled to secure it and our guide did not see him and yells to the dogs to go. Our sled had no musher and once again it flipped and dumped me into the snow bank while Chuck is trying to catch our run away sled. The second sled came crashing into me but I was not hurt because I was buried in snow. I crawled out once again and we got ourselves situated and Chuck got us down the hill and off we went.
Klutz moment 2:
About an hour later, we stopped for lunch at a lovely spot by the river and after the dogs were secured, we walked to our picnic area. My hands were really cold so I decided to go back to our sled to get some hand warmers. I saw a trail that looked fairly packed down and started working my way to the sled. As luck would have it, half way there my right foot hit breakthrough snow and down I went. I am wallowing around in 4 foot deep snow once again trying to get any traction so that I can stand and our guide says to Chuck, “ Is she over there playing in the snow or do we have a problem?” He looks over at his wife who is flopping and flapping around in the snow like a dying fish and heads over to rescue me. To my credit I had gotten myself up on my feet by the time he got there but three snowfall events had worn me out.
Last night at dinner I could not stop laughing thinking about what our guide said to Chuck. How many times has he seen me in a mess and wondered “ Is she over there playing or do we have a problem here?” There is a reason my friend Vivien Curry Windley calls me Lucy. Somehow I manage to get myself into messes but my friends always rescue me. My friend Glenda Snotherly says I keep her prayer life active.
PS. Thank God there are no pictures of my mishaps to accompany this post.Read more
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- Day 6
- Sunday, January 27, 2019 at 11:13 AM
- ⛅ 32 °F
- Altitude: 6,614 ft
United StatesTaggart Creek43°41’42” N 110°43’56” W
Snowshoe Trek
January 27, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ⛅ 32 °F
As our time in Jackson Hole is beginning to wind down the excursions just get better and better. While I’m glad we did the snowmobiling, the dog sledding and all the rest, today’s walk in the woods tops everything on our list. First our guide Kate put us in snowshoes, then we started walking toward Grand Teton. Glenda was frightened after a mishap in a dog sled yesterday and was thinking that she might sit out this activity. Yet Kate turned out to be a remarkable guide. As a teen from Jackson Hole she very nearly became the U. S. Snowboarding champion. Oh, yes, by the way, she then became a marine biologist working for the U.S. Army in Hawaii, then in the Great Barrier Reef off Australia. Now she is 37, has overcome a rare type of cancer and returned home to Jackson Hole. Here she spends her time teaching a healing form of yoga and leading people like us through silent snow covered forests in the shadow of the Tetons. Perhaps it was her familiarity with yoga that enabled her to put Glenda’s mind at rest. She encouraged Glenda to think of falling in the snow as part of the fun. When she actually did step into an unexpected deep patch of soft powder, Glenda was almost smiling as we pulled her back up onto her snowshoes. Always under the watchful eye of the mountain, we traversed groomed trails, virgin powder where ours were the first footprints. We wondered at the ruins of an early settler’s primitive ranch. The sun and clouds repeatedly came and went. In the changing light the mountain went from gleaming white to a pearlescent gold. Moments later Grand Teton and its apron below really did attain fifty shades of gray. Finally the sky turned a powerful blue. Ever watchful, Kate knew when it was time for us to catch our breath and she would explain animal tracks we passed or the means by which an aspen tree survives the winter. (Its cell walls are elastic.) She also explained that although they are geographically contiguous with the Rocky Mountains, the Teton Range is geologically not part of the Rockies. Only 10 million years old, the Tetons are the youngest mountain range in the world. Their newness explains their extreme verticality and their dramatic appearance. They were formed long after the Rockies. The Tetons were created from a very recent up-thrust occurring when one tectonic plate slid under another, pushing its neighbor higher and forming a new mountain range inside the previously formed Rockies. After about two and a half hours of lovely hiking and fascinating commentary we were back at the van, pleasantly tired, but greatly enriched by our snowshoe walk in the woods.Read more
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- Day 7
- Monday, January 28, 2019 at 9:43 AM
- 🌫 19 °F
- Altitude: 6,430 ft
United StatesJackson Hole Airport43°36’49” N 110°43’18” W
The Last Post
January 28, 2019 in the United States ⋅ 🌫 19 °F
Our original intent was this: because snow had not come to North Carolina, we would go to the snow. I also had the goal of giving Glenda a sleigh ride for her birthday. How much more we have experienced in the last week! Of course we did all that we had planned to do, as you have been reading. Yet today, with no agenda and no scheduled events we enjoyed ourselves beyond measure. After a leisurely breakfast we headed north again, near to the place where we did our snowshoe hike yesterday. But today we were even closer to Grand Teton mountain, and since we had no guide and no itinerary to keep, I brought along my tripod to get some really good photos. We spent the morning in three different locations, starting at the crossroads of Moose and moving northward. The eastern sun shone brilliantly against the west face of the Teton range as the temperature plummeted to 7 degrees Fahrenheit. After shooting up there we returned to photograph a nature walk along Flat Creek that runs by our hotel. Then we went to lunch at the Snake River Brewery, where I enjoyed a Reuben sandwich made with turkey and kimchi. Glenda had fish and chips with a Jenny Lake lager. We met a woman from New Orleans who got quite a bit of sympathy from the pub clientele over the ridiculous officiating that kept her home team out of the Super Bowl. Walking back to our hotel we grabbed a Danish pastry to carry back to our cabin. Let’s call it dessert. We are here in the warm cabin now reliving the week’s adventures—the white-knuckle snowmobile ride, the beauty and mishap of the dog sled ride, and the holy hike on snowshoes. Though some of our trips have been longer or to more distant destinations, we have never enjoyed any trip more than our week-long visit to the snow-covered mountains of Jackson Hole. Winter is considered the off season here. Spring and summer bring over a million visitors to this small town every year. Then it becomes inoperably crowded. But if you want our advice, the Cooks will both tell you that if you like playing in the snow, winter is the time to come to Jackson Hole, now one of our favorite places in the world.Read more
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- Day 8
- Tuesday, January 29, 2019 at 3:22 PM
- ☀️ 25 °F
- Altitude: 6,283 ft
United StatesJackson43°28’25” N 110°45’24” W
PS
January 29, 2019 in the United States ⋅ ☀️ 25 °F
We got to the airport early because our flight was changed. Instead of going through Chicago, which sits frozen in an ice cube, we got a flight through Dallas-Fort Worth. We got on the plane, all set to go when the pilot came over the horn and said that the fuelers had pumped more fuel than they should have, and now the airplane is 2000 pounds overweight. So we had to be towed to the other side of the airport where fuel truck came to siphon off 2000 pounds of fuel. This took over an hour so we knew we would miss our connecting flight in Dallas. As this process was continuing the pilot made another announcement. He said that the flight crew was about to “time out.” FAA regs require that the flight crews can work no longer than 8 hours at a stretch. So we would have to be towed back to the terminal so that all the passengers could de-plane. We all de-planed and the nice folks of American Airlines had some pretty unhappy people to deal with. They said we would have a special flight at 9 am tomorrow, and that they would put us up at the Snow King hotel tonight. They also gave us meal vouchers for supper tonight and breakfast tomorrow. We were all in 17 degree temperatures standing by a bus that had the name of the Snow King written on it, but it seemed that no one had seen the driver. So we shared a cab with two skiers and arrived at the hotel before the circus began at the shuttle bus. We knew that over a hundred irate passengers were about to compete for nine seats on the bus and we didn’t want to be around for that. So the cab took us to the hotel and when we got out Glenda realized that we had left one of our suitcases at the airport. Quickly we decided that I would stay at the hotel and get us checked in before the madding crowds descended. Glenda would go back to the airport to get the errant suitcase. She sent me a text saying that she was at the airport, had retrieved the suitcase, and was on her way back to the the hotel.Read more


































































