A ride to a temple and then on to Pursat

Not the most fantastic hotel with thin walls and a shower that flooded the bathroom every time it was used …. However that being said the bed was soft and the balcony provided a place to dry the washing. Breakfast was a self serve affair with a selection of hot foods, fruit and Cambodian cakes including a nice sticky rice with banana and some toffee doughnuts.
Battambang (pronounced “Bong”) is a French colonial city and some people say it is the second largest city in Cambodia. Bang means rice and this region of Cambodia grows the most and the best rice in the country, as a consequence there was the highest “killing field” death rate as many city dwellers were worked to death in the rice paddies during the civil war because the Khmer Rouge wanted to grow lots of rice which was then sent to China in exchange for guns rather than feeding the people. We set off on the bikes for the 25km ride to the Banan Temple. On the way we crossed an interesting suspension bridge and then stopped for a rest and learned (as we could hear the music for a wedding) all about Cambodian dowries, and the cost of weddings (from $4,000 upwards with an upper class wedding up to $80,000 as they like to party. Weddings are an expectation, with eloping not acceptable to the community) as well as the fact that around 50% of marriages are arranged. The groom to be lives with the inlaws for two years but cannot so much as hold the girls hand. We rode on for a while before stopping at a road side stall where the ladies were making baked rice. The rice is mixed with coconut and red beans and then packed into bamboo, the ends of which are plugged with coconut husks and the result baked on a slow fire for about 3 hours, the bamboo is a natural preservative and the result lasts about 3 days – it was sweet, tasty and filling!
About another 7 kms saw us at the temple, Phnom Banan was an Angkor era temple built around the end of the 11th Century. It has 5 towers (the central one with a men’s shrine) and is built at the top of a 400m mountain being reached by over 350 steep steps. Buntrey promised the first person to the top a beer… but has so far failed to deliver! The view from the top was somewhat restricted by trees but one could catch glimpses (maybe of Thailand mountains only 100 km away) and the breeze was lovely. Buntrey explained the process of how one gives a donation to the monks at the shrine and then has their fortune read by praying with some cards in one’s hands and then placing them over your head and poking them with a stick… Deb had a go at it and the outcome was that people were talking about her with jealousy and envy because of her job …. but because there was no monk involved it may not have actually been true. We also talked about the civil war, Phol Pot and the fear that freedom of speech is being eroded in Cambodia with recent media closures and an emerging fear of public criticism of the government.
We walked back down to the bikes and then headed off back to the city with a stop on the way to view the fruit bats. We were riding at rather a fast clip (approx. 23-25km/hr) and I was starting to get sore, fortunately is was not alone in feeling the speed and the last section back to the hotel was done at a more modest and comfortable 18-20km/hr. Overall the roads were mostly sealed and the terrain pretty flat so it was a quick and easy ride even on the relatively heavy bikes.
Back at the hotel for a shower and pack and down in the foyer by 1300hrs. We were then taken into the city centre for lunch – 12 of us got hustled into Soh’s favourite local where we enjoyed various noodle and stir fry dishes (I had morning glory with seafood, steamed rice and a soda for $4 USD) while Deb and Laura ended up on the upstairs balcony of the “White Rose” next door which was very nice too. Post lunch Soh took us to his favourite ice cream shop where a small cone with Belgian Chocolate ice cream was a $1 and a lovely end to the meal. Then it was back on the bus for the drive to Pursat.
Just before the city we stopped to visit another NGO. Sustainable Cambodia works with families of rural villages to help them achieve sustainability and self-sufficiency through education of children and families and the provision of clean water via a program of water tanks and water filtration units at affordable prices … we were shown around including the library and the works were they make the water tanks and a demonstration of the water filters. They also run “girls days” were girls are taught all about menstruation and periods and provided with a reusable menstrual kit – I was impressed by the practical level at which they work.
Then it was on to the hotel where we quickly took our stuff to the room before heading down to the pool for s very quick swim in the lovely warm and large pool. The back upstairs … super quick change and down to the foyer to meet with Jo to go for dinner. Buntrey had recommended a bar on the river (101 Restaurant and Bar) as having good Khmer food. It was certainly an interesting cultural experience. The menu was in English (well kind of) and very few of the staff had any English either (phone and “google translate” appeared at any request and mime was in abundance). Drinks were a struggle unless you wanted a large esky of beer and there was lots of mime going on with regard to the meals (clearly we would have done a lot better with one of the guides with us to translate). Interestingly the meals came out one at time with poor Jo having to wait until last. The also gave us each a dish of condiments with each plate that came out. I finally realised that the Cambodian culture is that all food is shared but individual condiments is clearly the go to allow for “double dipping”. Oh well it didn’t matter, we had a great evening and the food was pretty good too and at $18 for the 3 of us who can complain.
Back to the hotel for a pre-mixed Mai Tai and a massage for Deb… and now I am thinking it must be bed time as we have a long (75km) day tomorrow… I had a chat with Brett re the kids fanging it and pushing the pace so hard and I think he has the matter in hand … fingers crossed.. it’s about enjoying the journey too!Read more