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  • Day 8

    Exploring Phnom Penh

    July 8, 2019 in Cambodia ⋅ ⛅ 27 °C

    No riding today so we were able to have a relative sleep in… up at about 0645 for some yoga and then down to breakfast – not particularly elaborate but certainly adequate. At about 0800 we headed to Friends International where we had a detailed presentation about the work they do supporting children and their families. They work holistically with at risk children, putting in place strategies to keep kids at school or in vocational training … the spectrum of their work may include health care for children and their families as well as employment support for parents or care givers so that they don’t need to pull their kids from school. We then took part in an “amazing race” scenario via 4 tuk-tuks around the city and with the focus of the work of Friends. I really wasn’t my thing as it was hot, the traffic was insane and I was starting to feel sick by about half way through. We were finally done and returned to the Friends “complex” where they have a café, ethical store and training facilities.
    After briefly browsing the shop Jo, Mike, Deb and I headed off to the central market where we sampled some Bang Chow (which are just like the Vietnamese Banh Xeo) and doughnuts. The market was massive and rather overwhelming so once we had eaten we headed back to the hotel via a supermarket (unsuccessful quest for Sam’s beer and cigarettes).
    At 2pm it was time to head out again, this time it was to visit S21 which is the genocide museum in Phnom Penh, chronicling the Cambodian genocide. The site is a former secondary school which was used as Security Prison by the Khmer Rouge regime from its rise to power in 1975 to its fall in 1979. From 1976 to 1979, an estimated 20,000 people were imprisoned at Tuol Sleng (the real number is unknown). Tuol Sleng was just one of at least 150 torture and execution centres established by the Khmer Rouge, though other sources put the figure at 196 prison centres. At any one time, the prison held between 1,000–1,500 prisoners. They were repeatedly tortured and coerced into naming family members and close associates, who were in turn arrested, tortured and killed. In the early months of S-21's existence, most of the victims were from the previous Lon Nol regime and included soldiers, government officials, as well as academics, doctors, teachers, students, factory workers, monks, engineers, etc. Later, the party leadership's paranoia turned on its own ranks and purges throughout the country saw thousands of party activists and their families brought to Tuol Sleng and murdered. Those arrested included some of the highest ranking communist politicians. Although the official reason for their arrest was "espionage", these men may have been viewed by Khmer Rouge leader Pol Pot as potential leaders of a coup against him. Prisoners' families were sometimes brought en masse to be interrogated and later executed at the Choeung Ek extermination center. In 1979, the prison was uncovered by the invading Vietnamese army. In 1979/80, the prison was reopened by the government of the People's Republic of Kampuchea as a historical museum memorializing the actions of the Khmer Rouge regime. It really was rather confronting.
    After a couple of hours there (the audio guide was very informative) and the conclusion of the afternoon’s rain storm Deb and I headed back towards the river, passing the independence monument, a couple of temples and the royal palace. We ended up at “5 Drunk Men” Skybar. This was a funny place which was accessed via a secret door behind a giant been can. Up to the 3rd floor we sat and enjoyed some beverages while overlooking the river and watching Phnom Penh go by.
    We were so relaxed that we had to walk VERY briskly back to the hotel to be ready for the 7pm departure to the Khmer BBQ restaurant. This involved the food being cooked on a propane grill at the table … they did seafood and fish for us which was very nice. After tea Deb and I found the local ice cream shop (accessed via a chemist obviously!!) and enjoyed some Durian and Coconut and Durian and Mint Chip ice ream as we walked back to the hotel to pack for our 0700hr departure on a 65km ride.
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