Orsieres 12 miles

Heavy rain all night. Didn’t encourage an early start. And we couldn’t get to our next place, a BnB, before 5pm anyway. The book had various warning comments about this morning’s walk. “The most difficult stretch of the entire Via Francigena”, “precarious footing”, “scramble among boulders”, “slippery stretch among rocks and tree roots with an abrupt drop-off down to the river 20m below”. The train was recommended and Glynice happily took it. Spending a couple of hours sitting in a cafe knitting and blethering to anyone remotely in earshot while consuming coffee with lemon meringue pie seemed a better idea than a very wet scramble. In truth it did live up to its billing, helped by 24 hours of rain, plenty of mud, lots of fallen leaves, and wearing shoes with very little tread left. Nearly 3 hours of very focused hard work. Almost every step had to be carefully placed. Luckily the “route” was very well marked out because in amongst the boulders I wouldn’t have had a clue where to go otherwise.

Finally reunited with the lady, grabbed some lunch and did the last 5 or 6 miles in almost dry conditions. Much easier walking in very alpine-like terrain. Checked out the station ready for Glynice’s departure tomorrow and then reached the BnB bang on 5pm. Quickly got organised and back into the village for a very acceptable dinner.

While getting organised I realised that tomorrow’s campsite also had a small dormitory for pilgrims. Managed to convert my tent booking for a dormitory one which meant that I could send my tent, sleeping bag and mat home with Glynice as it was the last night I was hoping to have to camp. Really happy to get that weight out of my rucksack. Of course it does mean that if I can’t get accommodation at any stage I don’t have any back-up. Cross that bridge when I get to it.Read more