Col du Grand-St-Bernard 8 miles

I managed to get the other couple out at the back of 10pm. They were in no hurry as they were camping, undoubtedly in a freezing tent. And trying to charge everything while inside of course.

Just so glad I had managed to change my booking from the tent to the dormitory. My very thin sleeping bag would have been totally inadequate as it was barely above freezing. As it was I borrowed another duvet from the next mattress so was quite cosy under both duvets. No rush to get up but as I had locked the dorm after I was alone no one else could get in to have their breakfast inside until I had done so. Decided 9am was civilised. As there were no shops I hadn’t got much for my own breakfast. It doesn’t take long to eat a small Snickers bar with a cup of instant coffee. Provisions for the 4 hour, 1,000m climb was a small packet of peanuts.

Waited until after 10am to start in the hope that the cloud would lift and it would get a little less freezing. Luckily the walk was almost all uphill and carrying a bag uphill does help to warm you up. The cloud didn’t improve much but even very hazy sun was better than none at all.

Got quite excited as I approached some buildings as I noticed from afar that there was a board outside one of them of the type that usually advertises a cafe or bar. Mulled over what I would have but when I reached it the message just said the Relais was closed. Bother.

Turned into a lovely climb. Not unlike Munroing in Scotland. Just a bigger scale. The last hour was a bit of a slog especially with the lack of fuel. Goodness knows how I managed to do both yesterday and today’s climb in one day last time round. I know I was just a youngster but even so.
Reached the cafe at the top for a celebration hot chocolate (fab) and ham sandwich (dire doorstop).

Checked into the hostel. Massive affair. Been a pilgrims’hostel for 1,000 years but I don’t know how much of the building dates from then. There is a much newer building attached by a bridge where you can book private rooms (over £110 a night) but here we are in 4 bedded rooms. At least they are 4 beds , not like the mattresses on the ground of last night, and not bunk beds which I hate. I think the hostel is used by a lot of walking groups as there are loads of folk wandering about with all sorts of walking gear.
Did a quick check at “dinner” and I reckon there are over 200 staying here. I might well be the only pilgrim although there is a guy cycling the Via.

Dinner was as bad as expected. Communal eating of watery soup, meat stew with couscous and a small dod of sponge cake. Full I am not. Still, it is a reasonable-sized town in Italy tomorrow so I am sure I can make up for it.Read more